What's new
By:
Filters

Know when to hold ‘em know when to fold em

Keep or replace my old POS?

  • Replace my old pos with a new pos?

    Votes: 22 33.8%

  • Fix and keep running my old pod?

    Votes: 43 66.2%
  • Total voters
    65
YotaAtieToo said:
Right after I posted that I saw prices at $11k for a long block.....



So $11k long block plus $7k misc, plus all the time.

Man I don't know, that's easily half way to a used 6.7 psd that's ready to go today.

I feel like a bit of a hypocrite since I'm in the process of swapping mine, but the situation is totally different. If I wasn't sentimental to the stupid thing, I'd probably have gone the newer truck route also.
Click to expand...
Doesn’t make you a hypocrite. I have more dreams than time or money to fulfill them. A Fummins is a bucket list item for me, always will be. That 12V was to be paired with a ZF5 and go in my OBS centurion like what your doing.

I just have come to the conclusion that the new electronically controlled common rails are a lot better suited to the travel use I have and 80 mph speed limits these days. A Cummins gets decent fuel mileage till your dragging a loaded loaf of bread down the road a 1000 miles at 80 mph. Bros truck got between 7 and 8 mpg doing that where my 6.4 and dads 6.7 get 11 or 12 mpg at 80 pulling the same load of bread at 80.
 
JR4X said:
I just have come to the conclusion that the new electronically controlled common rails are a lot better suited to the travel use I have and 80 mph speed limits these days. A Cummins gets decent fuel mileage till your dragging a loaded loaf of bread down the road a 1000 miles at 80 mph. Bros truck got between 7 and 8 mpg doing that where my 6.4 and dads 6.7 get 11 or 12 mpg at 80 pulling the same load of bread at 80.
Click to expand...
That's interesting to me. My buddy has a 19 Ram and seems to do about 2-3 mpg better than me with my 14 F350 towing the same 22'(ish) enclosed snowmobile trailer from Los Alamos to Chama at average 70-75. Wonder if the newer Ford would outperform or not.
 
Them cummins, (especially with the rear dump common rail manifolds) are really prone to droning bad and being annoyingly loud.
The small muffler that came on the 07.5-12’s had a built in resonator chamber that kept it quiet inside the truck when dereted.
Throw just any typical strait thru muffler on and they gonna be annoying
 
Are you willing to ask your ford rep for a hookup?

I'm far from a beggar, and don't take you for one either, but as a sponsored ford racer, it's a reasonable ask.

"Hey buddy, I'm towing that sponsored ford race car with my 6.4 and it did 6.4 things, I can borrow a dodge occasionally, but if you had a demo truck, or even a hookup on a new truck, it'd sure help me focus on racing"
 
90supra said:
That's interesting to me. My buddy has a 19 Ram and seems to do about 2-3 mpg better than me with my 14 F350 towing the same 22'(ish) enclosed snowmobile trailer from Los Alamos to Chama at average 70-75. Wonder if the newer Ford would outperform or not.
Click to expand...
Anything special to note? Differences in trucks like potential gear ratios or bigger tires lifts etc?

My brothers truck was never meant to be the race tow rig. It’s lifted with big tires. Meant to tow campers locally back up tow rig etc. our PSD’s meant specifically for long tow duty are stock looking trucks but tow tune modded to buck weight with interstate use in mind always with a trailer on. So not apples to apples.
 
JR4X said:
Anything special to note? Differences in trucks like potential gear ratios or bigger tires lifts etc?

My brothers truck was never meant to be the race tow rig. It’s lifted with big tires. Meant to tow campers locally back up tow rig etc. our PSD’s meant specifically for long tow duty are stock looking trucks but tow tune modded to buck weight with interstate use in mind always with a trailer on. So not apples to apples.
Click to expand...
Both are bone stock trucks with slightly aggressive all-terrians in stock size. Mine has a camper shell, his has a sled deck. 3 snowmobiles plus gear in the trailer.

Wish I had any other data points for you. I do seem to average about the same as my brother-in-laws 2017 F250 towing crawlers on open trailers.
 
JR4X said:
Doesn’t make you a hypocrite. I have more dreams than time or money to fulfill them. A Fummins is a bucket list item for me, always will be. That 12V was to be paired with a ZF5 and go in my OBS centurion like what your doing.
Click to expand...

Thats pretty much why i did it, logically, a decent 7.3 should have went back in, but whats the fun in that.

JR4X said:
I just have come to the conclusion that the new electronically controlled common rails are a lot better suited to the travel use I have and 80 mph speed limits these days. A Cummins gets decent fuel mileage till your dragging a loaded loaf of bread down the road a 1000 miles at 80 mph. Bros truck got between 7 and 8 mpg doing that where my 6.4 and dads 6.7 get 11 or 12 mpg at 80 pulling the same load of bread at 80.
Click to expand...

That's also surprising to me. I guess there is a million factors there too. But I'd figure they would be close in mileage.
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Both hand calc’d?

Edit tire size stated
Click to expand...
Always. Only fuel mileage I’ll ever talk about are hand calculated. It’s a habit I have. Reset the tripometer every fill up, calculate the fuel mileage at every fill up off of miles driven vs gallons held. A lieometer is just that, a toy not to be confused with data.

We drove interstate the whole way from Farmington NM to Jay Oklahoma. We had to fill the 26 gallon tank every 200 ish miles and we’d be looking for truck stops with the fuel light on. We had to fill up 5 times each direction to get out and back. 10 card swipes to go 2000 miles 200 miles at a time taking about 25 gallons per stop. The lowest I calculated was 7.5 the best I calculated was 8.2.

The last tank I calculated with my ford coming home from the Montana race 3 weeks ago was over wolf creek from Buena Vista to home and I got 12.1 mpg.
 
Projectjunkie said:
Are you willing to ask your ford rep for a hookup?

I'm far from a beggar, and don't take you for one either, but as a sponsored ford racer, it's a reasonable ask.

"Hey buddy, I'm towing that sponsored ford race car with my 6.4 and it did 6.4 things, I can borrow a dodge occasionally, but if you had a demo truck, or even a hookup on a new truck, it'd sure help me focus on racing"
Click to expand...
Honestly, don’t even know who to ask. I’ll dig into it and see if there’s any programs in place.
 
JR4X said:
Always. Only fuel mileage I’ll ever talk about are hand calculated. It’s a habit I have. Reset the tripometer every fill up, calculate the fuel mileage at every fill up off of miles driven vs gallons held. A lieometer is just that, a toy not to be confused with data.

We drove interstate the whole way from Farmington NM to Jay Oklahoma. We had to fill the 26 gallon tank every 200 ish miles and we’d be looking for truck stops with the fuel light on. We had to fill up 5 times each direction to get out and back. 10 card swipes to go 2000 miles 200 miles at a time taking about 25 gallons per stop. The lowest I calculated was 7.5 the best I calculated was 8.2.

The last tank I calculated with my ford coming home from the Montana race 3 weeks ago was over wolf creek from Buena Vista to home and I got 12.1 mpg.
Click to expand...

Just throwing a data point on the wall for you but I’m extremely consistently 9.5 real world mpg pulling my long loaf of bread. 40x8.5 gooseneck with an AC unit on top grossing between 24 and 26k. I’ve seen as low as 7 and as high as 12 on windy days.

Funny enough that you had your issues headed out, and one of my good racing friends blew up his LML towing his race trailer this weekend about 30 miles from the house. Towed it home and got a rescue tow rig from a friend for the 8 hour haul, made it with a hour to spare. Sounds like it broke a piston…so shit happens to everyone. I just got backed into the drive from the track now and my CP4 lived so I didn’t completely jinx myself in the earlier post :smokin:
 
ridered3 said:
If you figure out who to contact, don’t forget to mention your recent podium :smokin:
Click to expand...
Oh no shit, hadn't been following, that's sweet:smokin:
YotaAtieToo said:
Why does everyone use duramax engine codes like we're all supposed to have them memorized :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Cuz the fucking changed them all the damn time, and sometimes mid year. :laughing: 2004.5 and 2005 is the LLY. So instead of saying, "I've got the one where they figured out the injectors, but it's the one that runs hot and gets shitty mileage, but it's the year before the one where they added a fucking gear to the Allison to bring back fuel economy" you just say "lly"


Oh, and they drug them behind in the vans and Kodiaks, so a 2006 maybe 07 in those is an lly.

So these guys just call them what they are:homer:
 
JR4x i meant is supra hand calc’d?
My deleted 12’ dodge ccsb 4x4 got consistently about 2 mpg better empty than my deleted 17’ cclb ford 6.7 both with apprx 34-35” tires and 3.73 dodge 3.55 ford

I write down every fillup and keep track of mpg in a book.

Ford weighed about 1200 lb more empty 9100with tools

Dodge had more grunt down low, ford was smoother and trans shifted 3x better
Dodge already needed front end rebuilt at 100k and went thru 2 rear wheel seals

I never towed far enough to get an accurate reading on mpg with both but the longbed ford with 48 gallon tank was nice
 
Projectjunkie said:
Oh no shit, hadn't been following, that's sweet:smokin:

Cuz the fucking changed them all the damn time, and sometimes mid year. :laughing: 2004.5 and 2005 is the LLY. So instead of saying, "I've got the one where they figured out the injectors, but it's the one that runs hot and gets shitty mileage, but it's the year before the one where they added a fucking gear to the Allison to bring back fuel economy" you just say "lly"


Oh, and they drug them behind in the vans and Kodiaks, so a 2006 maybe 07 in those is an lly.

So these guys just call them what they are:homer:
Click to expand...

Just say the year, ain't no body git tyme fo memorizing all those llygbq shit:flipoff2:
 
I’m gonna say it again. Just buy a new f350 and drive without worrying. Fuck working on shit constantly! I got sick of laying on top of my 7.3 working on it. Yes it’s a great truck still! But after pulling the trigger on my new truck I’m just sorry I didn’t do it sooner. The 7.3 is now a work truck. But I’m not a thousand miles from home worried I’ll have to fix something on it.
 
For what you do I vote a 6.7 F-450, keep it stock, or maybe an aftermarket muffler and stock power tune to go with it.

I know you say you like the CCSB trucks, but the 450 both will have more capacity and be more maneuverable. Single it out if you really want to avoid duals.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DMG
rockdog57 said:
I’m gonna say it again. Just buy a new f350 and drive without worrying. Fuck working on shit constantly! I got sick of laying on top of my 7.3 working on it. Yes it’s a great truck still! But after pulling the trigger on my new truck I’m just sorry I didn’t do it sooner. The 7.3 is now a work truck. But I’m not a thousand miles from home worried I’ll have to fix something on it.
Click to expand...

The problem with brand new is it seems to still be a gamble. Then you have the dealers backed up months and the loaner they give you is a ford escape :homer:
 
It's just mind boggling to me that people in the "well a long block is 1/4th the cost of a new truck" situation with what should be a new-ish truck.
 
arse_sidewards said:
It's just mind boggling to me that people in the "well a long block is 1/4th the cost of a new truck" situation with what should be a new-ish truck.
Click to expand...
Does it make sense to put $15K~$18k in a truck that would be worth $20K if? :lmao:

That’s a big out of pocket investment for a 200k mile truck. Still 2 hundo on the trans, t-case, axles. If the trans shits out in the next year that’s another $6k~$7k.

I’m just gathering data at this point but to have a new $21k cash into a high mileage truck is starting to look like the dumb decision at this point. Maybe it isn’t the dumbest thing I could do. I’m digging for options.
 
JR4X said:
Does it make sense to put $15K~$18k in a truck that would be worth $20K if? :lmao:

That’s a big out of pocket investment for a 200k mile truck. Still 2 hundo on the trans, t-case, axles. If the trans shits out in the next year that’s another $6k~$7k.

I’m just gathering data at this point but to have a new $21k cash into a high mileage truck is starting to look like the dumb decision at this point. Maybe it isn’t the dumbest thing I could do. I’m digging for options.
Click to expand...
Probably need to really know what boomed before deciding.

Possible it just pushed the injector out and the oil is just the broken valve cover?
 
JR4X said:
Does it make sense to put $15K~$18k in a truck that would be worth $20K if? :lmao:

That’s a big out of pocket investment for a 200k mile truck. Still 2 hundo on the trans, t-case, axles. If the trans shits out in the next year that’s another $6k~$7k.

I’m just gathering data at this point but to have a new $21k cash into a high mileage truck is starting to look like the dumb decision at this point. Maybe it isn’t the dumbest thing I could do. I’m digging for options.
Click to expand...
It's not uncommon to see projects here that are $1000 trucks with $50K thrown into them, but they are super purpose built and towing distance isn't that purpose.

Throwing $20K into a $20K truck doesn't equate well for me, especially for the miles and load you're doing. I'd throw that $20K into a new truck, with possible help from Ford, and roll on. The above mention of a F450 is solid, and never have an issue with your load and being new, no 200K mile issues.
 
$20k into a "$20k" truck that you know.

$20k into a new $60k truck thats realistically worth $40k, that you don't know and are rolling the dice on.

I don't know the right answer, I go in circles on this regularly, except more like $5k into a $5k gasser F250
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh