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Just Joined the Forklift Club :smokin:

that's a really cool idea, then if you wanted the trailer to swing with the steering rather than pivoting the lift around the hitch ball you could push out the extendo-forks
Yep, brilliant.

I played with it today. To make it awesome for moving trailers I'm going to make a replacement thing to go in place of the forks (42 inch!) so I don't have to worry about them swinging into trailer with the ball being so far back.

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If you flip the forks up are they far enough out of the way? Might be easier to just add a bracket that lets you pin them there instead of taking them on and off.
 
So, had a bit of look at it.

First batteries. 24 volt batteries.

Before I used it they were at 24.3 volts.
Playing for about an hour on and off got them to 23.7 volts.
Pushing immovable object the drive wheel would not spin, but drew over 600 amps.

Charging started out at 76 amps 26.4 volts with 245 vac input at 16 amps.

Seems good, the batteries can input/output some current.

Bit of a shitstain from acid on the bottom of the pack. Haven't pulled it to see if it was a spill or a leak.

Waiting for full charge to check electrolyte levels.

Not sure the year of the batteries, I'll have to call I guess.

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If you flip the forks up are they far enough out of the way? Might be easier to just add a bracket that lets you pin them there instead of taking them on and off.
Fuck yeah that'll work! Thanks.

They have 4 long cylinders stuffed in there. I can put the forks well higher than the building roof.

Everything is oily, I think from being sprayed. Cylinders all seem ok.

With no load the lift creeped down 1/4 inch in about 20 minutes and the tilt didn't creep at all.
Haven't tested loaded creep yet, but heard that sometimes they creep less with load because seals are sealing harder???

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Man, the mast on that thing is nice. I'd kill for one like that to scab an SSQA plate onto.
 
Three motors. Two spin hydraulic pumps, one for steering and another for lifting I think.

Drive wheel is direct electric.

Steering is mechanical with hydraulic assist. I get a groaning/clunking noise when steering, no idea what that's about. Maybe because the batteries aren't full charge and the hydraulics can't keep up?

The idler wheel isn't steered, it just swivels around.

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Before charging it this is what the battery gauge said.

First pic is no load
Second with one motor running.
Third with two motors running.

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It does what I need it to do.

That's an 800 lbs (wet) sled with a center of gravity at 6 feet from the back bumper. Drives nice and safely and I have a hard time baring the back of the lift of the ground with the sled out at extension which I won't be doing when it's elevated.



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Only problem I can really find with it is the cast steel base that the steering turns on. I lifted the steer end off the ground and all bearings/wheels seem nice and tight.

I do get about 1/8 or 3/16 play in this drive motor/turntable assembly when I bar it up while it's in the air. When it's loaded sitting on the ground there's no movement.

I think this is just how it is and it's ok.

Price is $3500 CDN and it's already delivered.
If you guys don't talk me out of it I'm buying.

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Someone's selling what I'm pretty sure is that exact model for $1k with no battery near me.

For maybe half of that I'd be tempted to buy it just to scavenge parts off it for other projects.
 
Someone's selling what I'm pretty sure is that exact model for $1k with no battery near me.

For maybe half of that I'd be tempted to buy it just to scavenge parts off it for other projects.
Lots of cool parts in it There's 3 series wound motors, one with SCR control (drive wheel), two double hose reels. Valves obviously.

This one has three hand operated valves so you can have nice analog control to be smooth, plus the up/down can also be operated with the tiny toggle switch at the top of the fwd/rev lever. That's full speed up/down for when the forks are empty, but it means there's also another electric operated valve somewhere.

Two cylinders for reach, and one for tilt.

I'm waiting on a quote for a new battery. Turns out the one I have is from 2012. The lady I spoke to couldn't believe the old S/N it had, although that might just be a sales tactic I guess.

The batteries never really charged fully. I left them charging for a few hours until the amps stopped dropping (56 amps). Tomorrow I'll slide out the battery and check and top up the cells.
 
looks to be in really good condition. almost the exact same as mine. i paid 2500 bald eagles for mine and would buy again in a heartbeat.

i used an epsom salt and distilled mix that really seamed to help witht the batteries after a few charge cycles.

mine lifts to 17ft tall, and rated to lift 3k, it lifts more than 3k.



there are safety switch on the mast that cut power down to make it work slower, with a low battery it can be a problem but you can push the swtich in manually and get the power back. biggest down side is that the liftign action is jerky on mine, but it can be featered down. hows the lifting on that one jerky too?
 
looks to be in really good condition. almost the exact same as mine. i paid 2500 bald eagles for mine and would buy again in a heartbeat.

i used an epsom salt and distilled mix that really seamed to help witht the batteries after a few charge cycles.

mine lifts to 17ft tall, and rated to lift 3k, it lifts more than 3k.



there are safety switch on the mast that cut power down to make it work slower, with a low battery it can be a problem but you can push the swtich in manually and get the power back. biggest down side is that the liftign action is jerky on mine, but it can be featered down. hows the lifting on that one jerky too?
It's jerky if you use the toggle switch (as it should be!) but if you use the hand valve it's as smooth as you want. The switch is either off or 100% on but the hand valve can give you throttled control as smooth as you can be.

Does your steering make any noise when you turn? This one makes a bit of noise when turning. I'll try to upload a video where you can hear it.

 
I'm waiting on a quote for a new battery. Turns out the one I have is from 2012. The lady I spoke to couldn't believe the old S/N it had, although that might just be a sales tactic I guess.

we cycle our lift batteries out every 3-4 years but ours are the larger 36v batteries and get used 24/7 with hardly a break after charging. most other places switch batteries out after 5-6 years so it’s definitely not a sales tactic, that battery is most likely clapped out.
 
Freight elevator build. :laughing:
Was thinking about this last night, I've got a spot or two that I could cut a 5x5 hole to bring materials up to the second floor (16 feet) when I build the apartment upstairs, like 150 sheets of 4x12 drywall for example.

I was originally planning on using the skid steer crane, but this would be way sexier.
 
Man, the mast on that thing is nice. I'd kill for one like that to scab an SSQA plate onto.
Keep dreaming. You don't want a three stage 20 foot mast for that. You'd have no capacity left to lift anything, especially to any height.

Single stage mast from a straddle stacker is what you want.

It's what I was contemplating doing for my skid steer. The straddle that I have has a 2k lbs capacity and my skid steer is rated for 2500 lbs, so the capacities match nicely, and my skid steer is bigger than average.

You can probably get these things free if you're the least bit patient.

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Keep dreaming. You don't want a three stage 20 foot mast for that. You'd have no capacity left to lift anything, especially to any height.

I have single stage masts around I need to cobble on that would do fine for "real work". A multi stage would just be for light shit that needs to go up fairly high like bringing one person to a roof, setting trusses, standing up poles, etc.

I can lift ~2500 at 24" No way that mast weighs 2k let alone more.


Single stage mast from a straddle stacker is what you want.
You can probably get these things free if you're the least bit patient.
Doubtful. When things go cheap/free they tend to go insiders.

I've been watching the market. There's about one "really good" deal a quarter in the eastern half of southern New England.
 
Doubtful. When things go cheap/free they tend to go insiders.
Talk to whoever does the forklifts for your employer? The dealer we use generally sends older trade ins straight to the scrap dumpster because they don't want to have to warranty them, they have offered to sell them for just over scrap price with no warranty.

I've been watching the market. There's about one "really good" deal a quarter in the eastern half of southern New England.
How about this one? Walk behind off-road forklift for $800
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Aaron Z
 
Talk to whoever does the forklifts for your employer? The dealer we use generally sends older trade ins straight to the scrap dumpster because they don't want to have to warranty them, they have offered to sell them for just over scrap price with no warranty.
My employer doesn't use more than a pallet jack. Computer hardware is pretty light.

I'm sure I could find a deal if I tried but it's just not a priority at this time.
How about this one? Walk behind off-road forklift for $800
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Aaron Z

I think that's about 2x more expensive than I'd want for something like that. What I'd really like to see is a multi-stage picker for $600-900

There was one of those mason lifts for $200 around here recently. Wasn't a proper fork lift though. Had some sort of basket with four fork like objects that had bars between them to make them one piece.

Here's what I would consider a good deal from a few weeks ago.

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My employer doesn't use more than a pallet jack. Computer hardware is pretty light.

I'm sure I could find a deal if I tried but it's just not a priority at this time.


I think that's about 2x more expensive than I'd want for something like that. What I'd really like to see is a multi-stage picker for $600-900

There was one of those mason lifts for $200 around here recently. Wasn't a proper fork lift though. Had some sort of basket with four fork like objects that had bars between them to make them one piece.

Here's what I would consider a good deal from a few weeks ago.

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I'll keep a lookout. The junkyard I go to has a ton of them if I can barter for one cheap enough.
 
It's jerky if you use the toggle switch (as it should be!) but if you use the hand valve it's as smooth as you want. The switch is either off or 100% on but the hand valve can give you throttled control as smooth as you can be.

Does your steering make any noise when you turn? This one makes a bit of noise when turning. I'll try to upload a video where you can hear it.


i've suspected something is not right with the jerky lift on mine. i just deal with it and i'm mostly lifting over 1000# and that helps it smooth a little. the up on the lever acts the exact same as the toggle on the handle. but it will feather down just fine. (the hyd motor doesn't turn on until the valve is full open, gotta be an adjustment somewhere?) i'll have to look into that more sometime. so far the only real 'issues' ive had are the contactors gumming up. the ones below the dash and also in the panel by your right leg standing in it. just clean them up and good to go. i've just used contact cleaner and scotch bite pads, the guy i go to that knows more about these than me (but he couldn't figure out the jerky lift either, he's been great working on electric man lifts tho) said a points file works great for cleaning contacts, but i wouldn't even know what one of those looks like. almost forgot i had to replace a relay under the dash too.

my steering makes that hydraulic noise, but not the ratcheting. it sounds and opperates smooth, i'll grab a video if you want to hear/see. maybe the steering chain is loose? ive been told thats a maintence item that causes problem if over tight or loose. been told either condition can destroy expensive parts. however i have not touched it on mine yet.

really the biggest thing for me has been trying to nurse the battery along, hoping i can find a replacement before i have to break down and buy new. but if i half to spend 5k or more on a battery, i will. maybe i should look into a refurbishing place? haveing this lift is important to me. a local warehouse even offered me 8k to sell it to them that day, i couldn't let it go. i now have things stored in places where only that lift can go. my other forklift i'd let go in a heartbeat, i'd like to replace it with a skidsteer, or a proper off pavement lift.


be sure to keep up on watering the battery. i've let it go way too far and the worst time was over 4gallons low. i pull the battery and fill each cell individually, the watering conector on mine wil over flow so cells then i get acid leaking out. i mostly charge mine with a small low amp norco charger and only plug it into the 220v big charger about once a month. sometimes it wont take a full charge, i haven't figured out why. ihave added battery acid and done the boiled/ desolved empsom salt thing in the battery and it has worked better than i expected.


i think you'll love that lift for your purpose's, itll probably pay for it self being able to store more in your building.
 
i've suspected something is not right with the jerky lift on mine. i just deal with it and i'm mostly lifting over 1000# and that helps it smooth a little. the up on the lever acts the exact same as the toggle on the handle. but it will feather down just fine. (the hyd motor doesn't turn on until the valve is full open, gotta be an adjustment somewhere?) i'll have to look into that more sometime. so far the only real 'issues' ive had are the contactors gumming up. the ones below the dash and also in the panel by your right leg standing in it. just clean them up and good to go. i've just used contact cleaner and scotch bite pads, the guy i go to that knows more about these than me (but he couldn't figure out the jerky lift either, he's been great working on electric man lifts tho) said a points file works great for cleaning contacts, but i wouldn't even know what one of those looks like. almost forgot i had to replace a relay under the dash too.

my steering makes that hydraulic noise, but not the ratcheting. it sounds and opperates smooth, i'll grab a video if you want to hear/see. maybe the steering chain is loose? ive been told thats a maintence item that causes problem if over tight or loose. been told either condition can destroy expensive parts. however i have not touched it on mine yet.



i think you'll love that lift for your purpose's, itll probably pay for it self being able to store more in your building.
From what you've posted, my first thought is the limit switch on the lift lever isn't adjusted correctly. You say you've almost got the lever at max before the pump starts, so of course it'll be jerky.

Check which motor runs for lift and see if another function turns on that motor, if so you can gently push that function enough to start the motor, but not enough to actually move anything, then you can lift smoothly.

Of course that would just be for troubleshooting purposes, then go adjust the switch.


I played around a bit more today. I'm 99% sure the ratchet noise is coming from the small gearbox between the steering wheel and the assist motor. You can see it clearly in my video, it's the grey rectangle with the allen head cap screws. I'm thinking worn gears/bearings in there, but haven't taken apart yet because not mine.

Are parts available at all for these?

I like not having any computer stuff at all, but on the other hand, the old electrical components might be hard to source. Easy enough to cobble stuff together with modern parts, but getting them to fit the space can be a challenge.
 
tracyb

Hey man!

I got questions you didn't answer! (see above post).

Also,

Would you have a minute to lift your back end off the floor and see how much play yours has here (see pic). I just used a pinch bar to pry up on the drive wheel to see the slop. It also slops a little when steering (while lifted) when you get to the end stops, but no slop when it's sitting on the ground and steered.

Mine's about 1/8 inch.

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Muckin_Slusher as for parts availability i dont know for sure. i've only had to replace one relay that was on the joystick. it was easy to find and shipped quick. i'm not sure about general parts availability, but i would assume with how many home depots have a dozen of these they have to have decent support.

and yes mine also has movement there when off the ground. looks like more than an 1/8th of movement on mine. fwiw, mine shows 1935 on the hour meter. it had around 1250 on it when i got it. in that time i have only cleaned a couple contacts and replaced that relay. only maintenance on the battery. i should probably really go thru it, change out filter, check fluids and such.

Yours is a lot cleaner than mine! i dont have a working phone at the moment, but should have one later today to grab some pics.
 
Cylander rebuild ran me about $325. Seals alone where almost half that. Just the wiper was almost $60

I usually rebuild them myself but couldn't get it apart and wasn't sure how easy I could get seals. Metric and it's not simple like ordering a seal kit for let's say a Hitachi 200 excavator or a Bobcat S250, etc.

Burnt paint is from me heating it trying to get it apart.
Dude said it took a 6ft pipe and all of his ~275lbs. I broke my wrench trying with the Bobcat pushing on a pipe.

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tracyb

I see what you mean about the lift being jumpy when lifting.

Been reading, and it seems all or most electric lifts are like that when at or near their max lifting capacity. Mine is smooth and easy to control when lifting light loads, but gets jumpy when loaded.

It doesn't matter how smooth you are with the lever. I've been using mine to lift the back of my Sienna off the ground (thanks to the rear trailer hitch beam) and it's jumpy like you said.
 
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