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Just Joined the Forklift Club :smokin:

tracyb said:
tractions not a problem. lack of power is.
i also have a set of air tires for it, but they bounce and go flat, the hard tires are better for my use
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Is that like the Case-Davis ones that have a hydraulic motor that chain drives the rear diff and a solid shaft between the front and rear diffs?
If so, is the engine bogging down, or are the hydraulics weak?
If the drive hydraulics are weak, clean the suction strainer (change fluid too?) and check the pressures at the motor to make sure the pressure relief isn't opening early.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Is that like the Case-Davis ones that have a hydraulic motor that chain drives the rear diff and a solid shaft between the front and rear diffs?
If so, is the engine bogging down, or are the hydraulics weak?
If the drive hydraulics are weak, clean the suction strainer (change fluid too?) and check the pressures at the motor to make sure the pressure relief isn't opening early.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...

the loader is a swinger model 200, and i have a manual and a ton of service notes from almost new until 10k hrs.


it doesn't have a visible chain, but i belive similar gear drivven design. hyd motor powered, with a case to the drive unit.


i probably should look into it more. its tired the motor been rebuild a number of times, but i dont think it would be to hard to repower with anything that pumps hyd fluid. if i rebuilt the articulating joints, and got a bettter understanding of it system it would probably be perfect. seems to be easier to make money and buy more crap tho.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Buy it. It will have way more ass than the mini-loader.
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def thinking about it. guy sent me a few videos of it, cold start, lifting etc. boom goes allot higher than i would have thought. i like the way it operates, steering in the rear, i'm still getting used to the legnth and articulate/ steering of the loader.



the loader is rated at 2k 'operating capacity' but has zero problem loading one yard buckets of gravel. so i know its good to at least 3k lb lifting, the other one is rated for 4500lbs of lift... the owner says it lift 6k.

i got a bit to think about, and the just this morning guy said he would deliver to my place for full price.
 
tracyb said:
the loader is a swinger model 200, and i have a manual and a ton of service notes from almost new until 10k hrs.
it doesn't have a visible chain, but i belive similar gear drivven design. hyd motor powered, with a case to the drive unit.
Click to expand...
Interesting, that one looks like it has a gearbox (so it can be put in neutral to be towed?) that mounts directly to the Dana 60 axle with a extra long pinion shaft, at least per the diagram at: JTFARMENGINES
Gearbox:
1699920262830.png


Axle:
1699920239941.png


tracyb said:
i probably should look into it more. its tired the motor been rebuild a number of times, but i dont think it would be to hard to repower with anything that pumps hyd fluid. if i rebuilt the articulating joints, and got a bettter understanding of it system it would probably be perfect. seems to be easier to make money and buy more crap tho.
Click to expand...
It would need a variable displacement piston pump to replace the stock pump, but yes.


Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Interesting, that one looks like it has a gearbox (so it can be put in neutral to be towed?) that mounts directly to the Dana 60 axle with a extra long pinion shaft, at least per the diagram at: JTFARMENGINES
Gearbox:


Axle:



It would need a variable displacement piston pump to replace the stock pump, but yes.


Aaron Z
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thats exactly what it looks like. had know idea they where a d60.



the loader was bought new by a local topsoil/ bark place. (i dunno if thats what they always did) but the place has been the same ever since i can remember and i'm almost 40yo. i bought it from the oldest son that took the place over. they where still using it until the day i got it.

now i take care of their bigger welding work, and thats how i ended up with it.

its been great for me so far. i dont put many hours on it, but its never failed to do what i need
 
QUESTION:

My steering cylinder leaks and needs re-packed.

Is there a check valve in it, or when I pull the lines, am I going to dump the entire amount of fluid in the whole system on the floor?

(It's a mitsubishi if that matters)
 
It "shouldn't" dump because the steering assist valve should have the input connected to the return to tank when you aren't turning the wheel. It's basically the same as an automotive power steering valve.

I'd still cap it.
 
Another thread derail.

While I own one cheap forklift ($231 propane Clark 4024, 4000lb cap) I'm always looking for another one.

Local auction has a Mitsubishi 18F4 circa 2000 that I'm interested in. Mainly because it's electric, has sideshift, taller lift height (171in if I read the tag right, the auction ceiling kept me from lifting it all the way) while also fitting in my current garage door. Still a cushion tire job, but hoping to get it for what I can sell the Clark for ($1500). Use both to build the shop and sell the Clark when done.


I know CAT also rebranded these as theirs, so hoping parts are still available. It also seems to be mostly electro-mechanical and not a ton of circuit boards. Free fall cylinder rebuild 100 hrs ago, in 2014. Current readings are 8700 hrs with 5273 hrs traction, and 1128 hrs pump. It does have an old battery, but i dont need 8 hour shifts of work.

Anyone with more experience, should I run away or give this beaut a shot?

871A0A55-562F-419F-85B6-832E0869E9AD.jpeg

20240105_091758.jpg
 
Lowrollin70gmc said:
Another thread derail.

While I own one cheap forklift ($231 propane Clark 4024, 4000lb cap) I'm always looking for another one.

Local auction has a Mitsubishi 18F4 circa 2000 that I'm interested in. Mainly because it's electric, has sideshift, taller lift height (171in if I read the tag right, the auction ceiling kept me from lifting it all the way) while also fitting in my current garage door. Still a cushion tire job, but hoping to get it for what I can sell the Clark for ($1500). Use both to build the shop and sell the Clark when done.


I know CAT also rebranded these as theirs, so hoping parts are still available. It also seems to be mostly electro-mechanical and not a ton of circuit boards. Free fall cylinder rebuild 100 hrs ago, in 2014. Current readings are 8700 hrs with 5273 hrs traction, and 1128 hrs pump. It does have an old battery, but i dont need 8 hour shifts of work.

Anyone with more experience, should I run away or give this beaut a shot?

871A0A55-562F-419F-85B6-832E0869E9AD.jpeg

20240105_091758.jpg
Click to expand...
The computer on my Mitsubishi is hot garbage. Mine is a few years newer and gas, so it may not have any relevance to yours, just saying is all.
 
Anybody have anything good or bad to say about Ingersoll-Rand forklifts? There’s a rt708g for sale locally that looks to be leak free, and would be an upgrade over the yard forklift that currently needs a flywheel that I don’t have time to mess with right now.
 
Was pretty pumped to finally score a set of 72 inch forks for my lift. Excited enough that I brushed the side for more important activities to put them on the lift this morning. Reason these were an auction yard became immediately clear. :lmao:

Time for another sketchy project the Internet says you shouldn’t do

IMG_8361.jpeg
 
Bacho said:
Was pretty pumped to finally score a set of 72 inch forks for my lift. Excited enough that I brushed the side for more important activities to put them on the lift this morning. Reason these were an auction yard became immediately clear. :lmao:

Time for another sketchy project the Internet says you shouldn’t do

IMG_8361.jpeg
Click to expand...

Ill bet you could bring it back up pretty easy with a little heat and a wet rag
 
I kind of did the same thing with a pair from the scrap yard. Not quite as bad as only one has a little curl on the end. Could probably fix it with heat....or just cut 6" off the end of both.

Of course I fucked up bigger because I assumed they were class 3 and would fit my 6k. Turned out they were just wide class 2 forks that I really didn't need. Ended up putting them on the tractor I'm selling and keeping the lighter class 2 ones to use on my 5k or the carriage I'm going to make for my new used telehandler.

1711985314695.png
 
I really like those small telehandlers. At least in theory anyhow. The guy I bought my 842 from had one for sale for less, but I really needed the size of the 842 for building my barn. But now that it's built I could probably get by with a little guy.
Instead I have the big Genie outside and an old 3k Hyster in the barn. When Genie gets in the barn she really shows her size!
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Heating it enough to flame straighten is going to take the heat treat out. Sketchy dozer idea is best.
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I'm amazed at how much force it takes to unfuck something compared to how much it took to fuck it up in the first place.

I have a set of fork extensions for my smaller lift. I was screwing around one day and tried to pick up one of my trucks by the axle, which was apparently too much for the extensions and bent both of them. I tried blocking up both ends of one of the extensions and then parked the forklift on it, with the wheel right on on top o the bend and they didn't move at all. I guess 1 wheel was probably only about 3k, but I figured it would bend it back a little. Maybe I'll do the same, but with a use a jack under the telehandler and see if it has enough ass to tweak them back.
 
JayMcJay said:
I really like those small telehandlers. At least in theory anyhow. The guy I bought my 842 from had one for sale for less, but I really needed the size of the 842 for building my barn. But now that it's built I could probably get by with a little guy.
Instead I have the big Genie outside and an old 3k Hyster in the barn. When Genie gets in the barn she really shows her size!
Click to expand...

Other than still chasing leaks on it it, it's about perfect for my needs. Gonna be way better for putting logs on the sawmill than my big tractor.

I'm going to hack up the fork carriage and put a skid steer style quick connect on it. It has aux. hydraulics so I'm planning to get a grapple and can also use my tractor's bucket on it....though I'll be looking for a bigger bucket as well.
 
Bacho said:
I was thinking about putting it on the carriage upside down and chaining it to a bulldozer.

I also have a recent acquisition of a 150 ton press that needs a purpose in the shop.
Click to expand...
upside down is what i would try.

would NOT use heat. they bent cold, should unbend cold.
 
bgaidan said:
I'm amazed at how much force it takes to unfuck something compared to how much it took to fuck it up in the first place.

I have a set of fork extensions for my smaller lift. I was screwing around one day and tried to pick up one of my trucks by the axle, which was apparently too much for the extensions and bent both of them. I tried blocking up both ends of one of the extensions and then parked the forklift on it, with the wheel right on on top o the bend and they didn't move at all. I guess 1 wheel was probably only about 3k, but I figured it would bend it back a little. Maybe I'll do the same, but with a use a jack under the telehandler and see if it has enough ass to tweak them back.
Click to expand...
"Work hardening"
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Heating it enough to flame straighten is going to take the heat treat out. Sketchy dozer idea is best.
Click to expand...

I got my press somewhat fixed and put it in there. At 75 tons, it indicated straight with my Amazon angle finde. I worked closer to the heel of the fork in a couple spots with 100 tons and now it indicates back to normal.

Of course, the forklift battery was dead when I went to go get it for the comparison picture.
 
[486] said:
I recall hearing they're usually 4340

so it's more the boundary between heated and unheated that'll get glass hard and fracture
Click to expand...
interesting, i've been under the impression the pallet forks are A514, and the plywood (flatter wider) were something more brittle. maybe that's the 4340? I dunno

I don't know much about it all other than looking gup the comparison charts

ASTM A514 Steel vs. Normalized SAE-AISI 4340 :: MakeItFrom.com

www.makeitfrom.com www.makeitfrom.com
 
sweet. I have two dake 50 ton presses from military surplus. need to get a rebuild kit and get one working.
 
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