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Just Joined the Forklift Club :smokin:

tracyb

I see what you mean about the lift being jumpy when lifting.

Been reading, and it seems all or most electric lifts are like that when at or near their max lifting capacity. Mine is smooth and easy to control when lifting light loads, but gets jumpy when loaded.

It doesn't matter how smooth you are with the lever. I've been using mine to lift the back of my Sienna off the ground (thanks to the rear trailer hitch beam) and it's jumpy like you said.
If it's set up similar to my toyota, you need to adjust the microswitch so the pump kicks in before the spool moves into flow position. That let's you feather into motion instead of the on/off toggling.
 
Yo dawg, I heard you like forklifts, so I brought you a forklift with my forklift
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Anyone know any thing about the Monotrol drive on these Hysters? Guy says it'll only go forward. I'm assuming the little microswitch just needs some adjustment?
 
Got the reverse figured out. There's a little pushrod jobbie in the gas pedal that actuates a hydraulic shuttle valve to shift between forward and reverse. That pushrod was frozen up. Got it moving with some PB blaster and a screwdriver. Now it's doing forklift things like, you know, making OSHA violations and whatnot.
:beer:
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It'll go just short of my trusses. Good to know that it won't actually lift them!
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Figured I'd ad my new beauty here.

Data plate is missing, but manual shift and research says 1946 or earlier.

Clark, don't know the capacity but prior owner said he'd do seed totes easy (2500lbs) and that's a thick counterweight. He bought four of them decades ago and this was the last of them. Has been sitting and won't run after swapping a tank on. I'll get around to tinkering with it, first look I'm leaning towards not pulling propane due to gunk in connector. Or maybe disassemble and clean regulator and filter. Worst case it needs everything and I scrap it for what I paid. Best case it runs and is awesome.:flipoff2:

Paid $231 with auction fees, was about 30 miles from my house. Parked the steers on a crossmember to keep it on top of the wood deck. It's heavy, and one inch taller than my garage door opening, so it's new home is out front for the neighbors to be jealous of.

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Figured I'd ad my new beauty here.

Data plate is missing, but manual shift and research says 1946 or earlier.

Clark, don't know the capacity but prior owner said he'd do seed totes easy (2500lbs) and that's a thick counterweight. He bought four of them decades ago and this was the last of them. Has been sitting and won't run after swapping a tank on. I'll get around to tinkering with it, first look I'm leaning towards not pulling propane due to gunk in connector. Or maybe disassemble and clean regulator and filter. Worst case it needs everything and I scrap it for what I paid. Best case it runs and is awesome.:flipoff2:

Paid $231 with auction fees, was about 30 miles from my house. Parked the steers on a crossmember to keep it on top of the wood deck. It's heavy, and one inch taller than my garage door opening, so it's new home is out front for the neighbors to be jealous of.
Nice tow pig!

As for the forklift/garage door issue. Please, please, please do something white trash custom like cut a slot out of the garage door header so you can get it in/out.:lmao:

Don't take the classy way out and shorten the mast 1 inch.
 
Nice tow pig!

As for the forklift/garage door issue. Please, please, please do something white trash custom like cut a slot out of the garage door header so you can get it in/out.:lmao:
Headers are oversized anyway, an inch or two out of the bottom won't hurt anything :lmao:

Don't take the classy way out and shorten the mast 1 inch.
If you do, be sure not to tell the person you sell it to that you did that, they will greatly appreciate not being able to get the lift height that the lift should be capable of on paper :mad3:

Aaron Z
 
I might have a solution for your garage door issue, depends on the door / opening size.

Our shop forklift wouldn't clear the shop door with it open and the springs holding it up but you could push it by hand an extra couple inches and wedge it open (we used a paint can). It cleared by 1/2 an inch or so.
 
Will it clear if you tilt it all the way forward? I guess you would have to get it running first to try it.
 
Nice tow pig!

As for the forklift/garage door issue. Please, please, please do something white trash custom like cut a slot out of the garage door header so you can get it in/out.:lmao:

Don't take the classy way out and shorten the mast 1 inch.
Thank you, other than the ugly tail lights the 'ol Cummins Burb is a great workin' rig.

I'm not too worried about the garage situation. Forklift is 6' 11", door frame is 6' 10". This large single stall is going to be moved to a new slab and used as cold storage, with the opening raised to 8' and the new garage will have 8' and 10' doors.

I just wanted it inside to work on it on rainy or snowy days, especially if the motor didn't turn over or something. Plus not make is so obvious that I'm bringing home more treasures.

So far, it cranks with a fresh battery, but no spark and an empty propane cylinder. I was going to go ghetto and use my grill tank upside down but I have no clue where it went when I moved. Won't fire on carb cleaner and no spark at the plugs or coil. Probably grab a coil, plugs, and points in the big city tomorrow if I can figure out part numbers.

Oh, and best guess is Clark 4024, so 4000lb lift and 6900lb weight. Might be 50s, seems like the pre-46 advice was a smaller model.
 
Got it running.

Decided the coil negative to distributor looked sketch. So I cleaned up the rust and used a chunk of solid copper (it was close) as a new wire. Also pulled the points, sanded them, and reinstalled. It'll still get new stuff, but wanted proof of life before filling the propane tank.

She fired up and smells like mouse turds out the exhaust. But it ran three separate times off brake cleaner.


Now to see if the hardware store will fill this old propane tank.
 
Got it running.

Decided the coil negative to distributor looked sketch. So I cleaned up the rust and used a chunk of solid copper (it was close) as a new wire. Also pulled the points, sanded them, and reinstalled. It'll still get new stuff, but wanted proof of life before filling the propane tank.

She fired up and smells like mouse turds out the exhaust. But it ran three separate times off brake cleaner.


Now to see if the hardware store will fill this old propane tank.

Welding supply places will swap them out for a reasonable fee just like other gas bottles. Arc3 here does it and most of the sales guys don't give a shit about the condition of the tank. I have 3 tanks for my fleet of forklifts and I used to just buy old ones cheap on FB and get them swapped out for new. Then you can get them refilled as long as they're in hydro.
 
Hell yeah.

Hardware store filled it up, $30. He looked at the tank, so must be a good hydro. Not the cheapest/gallon but open on a Saturday works for me.

Hooked up tank and it fired within a revolution. I'm thinking that one wire I replaced was the issue. They also had the tank on backwards. Rotationally off by 30° or so from normal so on a nearly empty tankit may not have been pulling liquid. Whatever the issue, I have a running forklift.

Small bad news: left front tire has rubbed a hole in a hydraulic line behind it. Not too worried, I can fix that with a new hose.
 
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Then you can get them refilled as long as they're in hydro.
places around me don't give a shit what the date is on the tank
they'd be losing business if they did care
Rotationally off by 30° or so from normal so on a nearly empty tankit may not have been pulling liquid.
they'll run a while off gas, just the tank will get cold and drop pressure to where it doesn't run until the tank warms up

mine's just running on a barbecue grill tank lol
 
Any know what would trigger the trans and control interlock on a 6k Komatsu, other than the seat safety switch?

I have two of these. One still had the seat switch present and I had to zip tie it when I replaced the seat with one that didn't have sensor. This other, the interlock never worked and I found the other day that the seat switch is bypassed and just has the two wires twisted together with a wire nut. :laughing:

It's been working for for a good year an a half. The other day I used and and started park it and halfway through turning the ignition off, I realized it would be in the way and I turned it back on....so it never shut off, but started to. With the key back on, all of a sudden the shifter is not doing anything and the lift and tilt controls are locked out. I've verified the seat switch is still bypassed and I haven't found anything obviously wrong. Thinking I tripped some kind of safety switch with my ignition antics, but it's clearly not self resetting.


Ideas?



FG30HT-16
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Will it normally start in gear?
Thinking it's a neutral safety switch maybe.
 
i'm looking at one of these. a 1988 international 4500. guys says it weighs ~10k and lifts ~6k. i'm currently using a super old little wheel loader that will get stuck from lack of power and has little problems everywhere.

anyone know if these are good? just started msg the owner, so far all i know it the weights and that its gas.
onal4500widget_9fc53badc8c84446aee89c25a522fe00-ra.jpg


this is what i'm currently using,
jmn0RMRUGvURFETr71VieWIM=w816-h612-s-no?authuser=0.jpg




$6k and a 4hr drive each way might be worth it. forklifts are hard to find around here. most start at $15k.
 
i'm looking at one of these. a 1988 international 4500. guys says it weighs ~10k and lifts ~6k. i'm currently using a super old little wheel loader that will get stuck from lack of power and has little problems everywhere.

anyone know if these are good? just started msg the owner, so far all i know it the weights and that its gas.
onal4500widget_9fc53badc8c84446aee89c25a522fe00-ra.jpg


this is what i'm currently using,
jmn0RMRUGvURFETr71VieWIM=w816-h612-s-no?authuser=0.jpg




$6k and a 4hr drive each way might be worth it. forklifts are hard to find around here. most start at $15k.
We had an international forklift of approximately that vintage. Ours was diesel. It was abused and worn out when we got it and took ether to start even if it had just been running. I think we got it in exchange for some sort of debt and never spent any money on it except oil and filters. Kept chugging along for years until we traded it off.
 
Will it normally start in gear?
Thinking it's a neutral safety switch maybe.

It starts and idles fine. It won't start in gear, so I would think the gear selector is working since it is actually starting. The gear selector just does nothing when it's running. On the other machine where the seat sensor is intact, it won't go in to gear if the seat switch is not activated. So I'm pretty sure it's some other interlock (other than the seat switch). I just can't find anything else to indicated what it might be.
 
It starts and idles fine. It won't start in gear, so I would think the gear selector is working since it is actually starting. The gear selector just does nothing when it's running. On the other machine where the seat sensor is intact, it won't go in to gear if the seat switch is not activated. So I'm pretty sure it's some other interlock (other than the seat switch). I just can't find anything else to indicated what it might be.


maybe the ebrake switch/sensor?


Those lifts are awesome, way better than i run
 
Awwe fuck. Sometime I just need to remind myself that I'm an retard. :homer:

I thought I check all the fuses the other day, but just probed them all and found a dead 10a labled "Control ACC". Swapped it out and everything back to normal.

Yay, I have 3 mostly functional forklifts again. :laughing:
 
i'm looking at one of these. a 1988 international 4500. guys says it weighs ~10k and lifts ~6k. i'm currently using a super old little wheel loader that will get stuck from lack of power and has little problems everywhere.

anyone know if these are good? just started msg the owner, so far all i know it the weights and that its gas.


this is what i'm currently using,
jmn0RMRUGvURFETr71VieWIM=w816-h612-s-no?authuser=0.jpg




$6k and a 4hr drive each way might be worth it. forklifts are hard to find around here. most start at $15k.
That's fucking cool!

Much want.
 
That's fucking cool!

Much want.


the Swinger/ wheel loader? haha, its tired. 10k hours on it. gave $2500 for it. put the bobcat style bucket attach on it and have run it. its clunky, but has been good to me. always easy to start.

i probably should put some work/ money in to it, but have pretty much decided to run it till it stops and scrap it.
 
tractions not a problem. lack of power is.

i also have a set of air tires for it, but they bounce and go flat, the hard tires are better for my use
 
i'm looking at one of these. a 1988 international 4500. guys says it weighs ~10k and lifts ~6k. i'm currently using a super old little wheel loader that will get stuck from lack of power and has little problems everywhere.

anyone know if these are good? just started msg the owner, so far all i know it the weights and that its gas.
onal4500widget_9fc53badc8c84446aee89c25a522fe00-ra.jpg


this is what i'm currently using,
jmn0RMRUGvURFETr71VieWIM=w816-h612-s-no?authuser=0.jpg




$6k and a 4hr drive each way might be worth it. forklifts are hard to find around here. most start at $15k.

Buy it. It will have way more ass than the mini-loader.
 
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