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Just Joined the Forklift Club :smokin:

Jesus tap dancing Christ, I had to go look and thanks for the idea. I’m not sure if my balls are as big as yours and I’ll be traveling 70miles down the highway. It looks like their 2 axle 6x12 with a ramp is rated for 3710lbs and I’m sure there is a safety factor in that
Depends how much insurance you have and how much you have to lose.
 
I hauled my forklift from louisiana on the front of my gooseneck. when I got home, I had a rollback come and unload it for me. loading it was real sketchy, had some heavy ramps and a shitty old backhoe to push it on. should have got video of that!
 
Jesus tap dancing Christ, I had to go look and thanks for the idea. I’m not sure if my balls are as big as yours and I’ll be traveling 70miles down the highway. It looks like their 2 axle 6x12 with a ramp is rated for 3710lbs and I’m sure there is a safety factor in that

The Uhaul ratings are a joke. Even before up-sizing things for rental duty you can't even build a dual axle 5-lug trailer with less than 7k worth of axles if using common parts. I think they rate the 15ft DRW box truck at like 3500lb or something like that. None of their ratings even correspond to the tire ratings and the tires are intentionally undersized so they strand you before you fuck up the trailer some other way. FYI the insurance doesn't cover tire and rim. Someday I'll pull a wheel hub off and see what weight rating of trailer axle their spindle actually corresponds to.

This is the same forklift from the BDL thread but on the right size trailer. The combo weighed 18k total and the tow righ was an ex-cab 8ft F350 with the 7.3 which puts the forklift right around 9k. I'm not gonna post the weight slip because personal info.

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The Uhaul ratings are a joke. Even before up-sizing things for rental duty you can't even build a dual axle 5-lug trailer with less than 7k worth of axles if using common parts. I think they rate the 15ft DRW box truck at like 3500lb or something like that. None of their ratings even correspond to the tire ratings and the tires are intentionally undersized so they strand you before you fuck up the trailer some other way. FYI the insurance doesn't cover tire and rim. Someday I'll pull a wheel hub off and see what weight rating of trailer axle their spindle actually corresponds to.

This is the same forklift from the BDL thread but on the right size trailer. The combo weighed 18k total and the tow righ was an ex-cab 8ft F350 with the 7.3 which puts the forklift right around 9k. I'm not gonna post the weight slip because personal info.

attachment(14).jpeg
They drop the weight rating so that if you are over weight of what they put as a max rating you are at fault . if you are ever over weight and in any type of accident the blame automaticly shifts to the overweight rig .
 
They drop the weight rating so that if you are over weight of what they put as a max rating you are at fault . if you are ever over weight and in any type of accident the blame automaticly shifts to the overweight rig .
You do not incur strict liability by overloading a vehicle. If it was that easy I'd pit-maneuver every Tacoma I saw kitted out with overlanding garbage because lord knows most of them are overweight.

They do it so you can't possibly break their stuff and sue them without having first overloaded their stuff which is in violation of the boilerplate in the rental contract which makes a lawsuit much more of an uphill battle.
 
So...I found a scrap Clark identical to mine (missing the H designation, but close enough!).

It's got like new steer tires. :bounce:

I'm going to see how much to buy the whole thing. I'm going to need a clutch eventually and it'd be nice to have a spare to get rebuilt ahead of time.
 
i know nothing about it other than if it worked... i'd buy it.
Needs engine so I can't try the hydraulics or transmission.

I have no idea if the wheels are driven mechanically or hydraulically, so it'd take some doing to adapt a motor into it.
I'd like to have it, but have no time for all that dicking around.
 
I need something like that for moving dead vehicles around. My toolcat can push them, but doesn't have enough gusto to pick them up to maneuver them.
 
Anyone recognize this thing?

Says it's rated to lift 6000 lbs, but doesn't list make/model.

$2500 CDN.

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That looks like the forklift variant of the Case-Davis Scatback 430:
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Looked at buying one a couple of years back, they have solid front/rear axles, a driveshaft between them, the rear axle has a sprocket between the pinion and the driveshaft and there is a hydraulic motor above it that drives the sprocket via a chain.

Aaron Z
 
Looked at buying one a couple of years back, they have solid front/rear axles, a driveshaft between them, the rear axle has a sprocket between the pinion and the driveshaft and there is a hydraulic motor above it that drives the sprocket via a chain.

Aaron Z
I love the simplicity of equipment like that.
 
Got a set of $170 big river in the jungle chains for my Mitsushitty. The real chains are $400+.

It's not exactly an off road unit, but least it's not getting stuck on a damp fart now. Thought about making some VBar or skidder ring chains, but these I think will be reasonable on the concrete.

I wouldn't want to run it all day indoors, but if I need to, the chains take maybe 10-15 mins to pull off and put back on.
 
Still using the old green turd Clark.

I've currently got a Raymond Reach in the warehouse (storing it for someone). It's got an "expired inspection"

It was from a local business that just changed locations and I'm pretty sure the new, better location doesn't need this type of lift as they can now drive outside and have much more room.

It was refurbished in 2000 by Raymond. Has pretty good batteries, drives great and seems perfect condition.

I'm thinking I should buy it and sell the Clark.

How much abuse can these things take? (like shunting a trailer, pushing/pulling).

I've got some slightly sloped floors, guess 1/8" per foot or so. Can they handle any floor imperfections?

It's got tilt and extend. Rated at 3000 lbs, 24 inches out on the forks.

My heaviest normal load would be an 800 lbs snowmobile, with the heavy end away from the forklift, and center of gravity at about 6 feet.

My farmer math says that I would be at 80% capacity with that load (just converting my load vs max load into simple torque).

Am I gonna die?:laughing:
 
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No I've never run one at all, other than a bit of fucking around with it today.

My application for it isn't really normal. I'd be using it to move snowmobiles and sea-doos (the long way). With the conventional lift it's a bit of a pain swinging around a 10 foot long load in the shop, but this stand up thing can turn on a dime.

Also seems like it would be awesome with a ball at the tip of the forks moving around trailers.

For outside stuff I've got the skid steer.

Dethmachinefab----why the hate?
 
Like this. Kind of a long load to swing around.

How do you derate your load capacity with loads further out than 24 inches (which is how the nameplate rating is calculated)?

I just calculated the torque 3000 lbs would apply at 24 inches.
800 lbs at 72 inches would be 80% of the above rated load.

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P9232300.JPG
 
Still using the old green turd Clark.

I've currently got a Raymond Reach in the warehouse (storing it for someone). It's got an "expired inspection"

It was from a local business that just changed locations and I'm pretty sure the new, better location doesn't need this type of lift as they can now drive outside and have much more room.

It was refurbished in 2000 by Raymond. Has pretty good batteries, drives great and seems perfect condition.

I'm thinking I should buy it and sell the Clark.

How much abuse can these things take? (like shunting a trailer, pushing/pulling).

I've got some slightly sloped floors, guess 1/8" per foot or so. Can they handle any floor imperfections?

It's got tilt and extend. Rated at 3000 lbs, 24 inches out on the forks.

My heaviest normal load would be an 800 lbs snowmobile, with the heavy end away from the forklift, and center of gravity at about 6 feet.

My farmer math says that I would be at 80% capacity with that load (just converting my load vs max load into simple torque).

Am I gonna die?:laughing:


these are my lifts.
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the raymond is the best tool i've bought in a long. used to only have the hyster. hyster is great for capacity and being ablt to (sort of) move around on my gravel.

the raymond has made my shop feel twice the size. can get into so many more places effectivley increaseing my usable space. if it where gone tomorrow, i'd be renting one and looking hard for a replacement.

they can handle allot more slope and such than i would have imagined. there is a 1/2" lip into my shop and i just put down 1/4" flat bar to make the transition smoother... however it would make it with out. the slab infront of my shop and driveway are chitty but it gets around fine. gravel? nope no effing way. it has the wheels up front. then under it is an idler wheel and one drive/turn wheel with a little bit of suspenion on it. gotta make sure that wheel has contact or you're done. they are so easy to work on i'll probably have this thing for ever or until its unuablely ragged out. i use it on average 1-2 hrs a day and it could really use a battery but it works enough for my needs.
 
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(i'm a one man shop and work alone)
on of the best things about the raymond, is i hooked up a remote winch controler to the lift. so when there are loads that the big lift cant handle i can tandem lift by myself.

mostly unloaded steel truck and have them drive out. but this time, boat weighed way more than it claimed on the report. saved my ass. 37ft and heavy.

KKkWH8XcpqlBWAb9c1NjMs34=w823-h617-s-no?authuser=0.jpg


that plate on the grand there had to be tandem lifted off the truck. there were 2 more on top of it.
 
Still using the old green turd Clark.

I've currently got a Raymond Reach in the warehouse (storing it for someone). It's got an "expired inspection"

It was from a local business that just changed locations and I'm pretty sure the new, better location doesn't need this type of lift as they can now drive outside and have much more room.

It was refurbished in 2000 by Raymond. Has pretty good batteries, drives great and seems perfect condition.

I'm thinking I should buy it and sell the Clark.

How much abuse can these things take? (like shunting a trailer, pushing/pulling).

I've got some slightly sloped floors, guess 1/8" per foot or so. Can they handle any floor imperfections?

It's got tilt and extend. Rated at 3000 lbs, 24 inches out on the forks.

My heaviest normal load would be an 800 lbs snowmobile, with the heavy end away from the forklift, and center of gravity at about 6 feet.

My farmer math says that I would be at 80% capacity with that load (just converting my load vs max load into simple torque).

Am I gonna die?:laughing:
I use to use to be on a raymond reach truck every day for 10 years. the ones I used were double reach and can pick pallets 36’ up. they also weren’t that old as they would be clapped out junk at 8 years old. There are a few places on the warehouse floor they can get stuck which is kinda pain in the ass since you’re likely to find them while turning a pallet in a reserve. then you need someone else to give you a little push to get you out of the low spot.

If you’re wanting something similar, A counterbalance would be a better choice but it won’t have the reach. you can get attachments for them though like clamps
 
So I've got a serious hard-on for Raymond. :laughing:

I always figured the extended stupid front wheels were because the thing was too short to have any counterbalance capacity. I don't think that's correct since it has full rated load capacity even when the forks are extended out past the front wheels.

I now think the front extended wheels are so the machine can pivot around the pallet, making tight space maneuvering much better.

Being able to pivot like that would make it amazing at shunting trailers around, all I need to do is identify where the pivot point is and place the trailer ball there and I can swing the forklift around the trailer ball without moving the trailer. I might need to make and/or adjust the steering stops so I can just slam the steering fully one way or the other to pivot.
 
that's a really cool idea, then if you wanted the trailer to swing with the steering rather than pivoting the lift around the hitch ball you could push out the extendo-forks
 
So I've got a serious hard-on for Raymond. :laughing:

I always figured the extended stupid front wheels were because the thing was too short to have any counterbalance capacity. I don't think that's correct since it has full rated load capacity even when the forks are extended out past the front wheels.

I now think the front extended wheels are so the machine can pivot around the pallet, making tight space maneuvering much better.

Being able to pivot like that would make it amazing at shunting trailers around, all I need to do is identify where the pivot point is and place the trailer ball there and I can swing the forklift around the trailer ball without moving the trailer. I might need to make and/or adjust the steering stops so I can just slam the steering fully one way or the other to pivot.
yes, the pivot point is around the load rack and one of the load wheels up front will drive backwards. works great in a warehouse setting as you can drive a few inches from the rack and turn to full lock 90° and have the fork tips an inch or so from the rack. their biggest down side is dips in the floor as it only has one drive wheel. if you’re trying to maneuver something and the drive wheel finds the dip, the other wheel will hold the machine up while the drive touches nothing. the counter balance I mentioned earlier has two drives and one steer and uneven floor isn’t an issue but has almost the same maneuvering ability.
 
the biggst thing i didnt like about my raymond was the 3ft forks. i couldnt pick some pallets that he 5ft deep material. i swapped them out to 4ft, it affects maneuverability a little but i need 4ft forks.

my battery is about shot too. it will last 2-3hrs so that good enough for me, but would be nice to have a good battery will full power. the battery is the counterballance it weighs 1800lbs, i think new batteries run around $5k.
 
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