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Junkyard 609 axles

Just because I was curious.

Ball joints are not tight, tie rod is just sitting there.
IMG_0674.jpeg


7 degrees caster with a 14.5 pinion angle, doesn’t need offset TREs or anything. If I keep it this way I might just run Y link steering and not mess with the knuckles.
IMG_0672.jpeg

This height might be beneficial to a lower cog rig
 
Blase said:
i wonder just for the sake of wondering if the Dodge 33 spline unit bearings could be resplined to 35 (or maybe 40) spline? The Dodge unit bearing has the 33 spline cut directly into it right? No drive flange or hub needed correct?
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Curious about that too but the bearings might be too small / in the way.
 
Blase said:
i wonder just for the sake of wondering if the Dodge 33 spline unit bearings could be resplined to 35 (or maybe 40) spline? The Dodge unit bearing has the 33 spline cut directly into it right? No drive flange or hub needed correct?
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Then you're stuck with buying full customer shafts.

And like I said, the 33 (I thought it was 32?) sp stubs have not proven to be a weak point.
 
Dan said:
Just because I was curious.

Ball joints are not tight, tie rod is just sitting there.
IMG_0674.jpeg


7 degrees caster with a 14.5 pinion angle, doesn’t need offset TREs or anything. If I keep it this way I might just run Y link steering and not mess with the knuckles.
IMG_0672.jpeg

This height might be beneficial to a lower cog rig
Click to expand...
Dan looking GREAT!! Any idea what the WMS will be on your axle yet? Or what length the inner axles will be?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Then you're stuck with buying full customer shafts.

And like I said, the 33 (I thought it was 32?) sp stubs have not proven to be a weak point.
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I looked up on RockAuto....

94-99 D60 unit bearing and compared to newer Dodge/Ram year models. Looking like 2009-2011 Rams came with 35 spline and the unit bearing is very close to same dimensionally aside the shorter mounting flange offset and the larger 35 spline on newer year models, but I think that can easily be remedied by to convert to slide-on rotors.

Someone will need to put this contraption together and verify whether stub shaft's U-joint centerline will match up with ball joint steering axis. 35 spline stub shaft listed at 9.25". 33 spline stub shaft listed at 7.05"
 
Bebop said:
Curious about that too but the bearings might be too small / in the way.
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Don’t the dodge unit bearings split apart without the stub shaft to hold them together? I know gtxracer used them on his Eaton build years ago.
 
Rangerrod said:
Don’t the dodge unit bearings split apart without the stub shaft to hold them together? I know gtxracer used them on his Eaton build years ago.
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I just took apart a 13 (I think) the other day and there was no snap ring or anything retaining the stub shaft to the unit bearing.
 
Ghetto Fab. said:
Any reason other than cost to use those junkyard 9" housing centers? I know you get can get circle track housing centers for pretty cheap. I know they are very lightweight, but I figure with additional trussing they'd be strong enough.
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Before using the junkyard centers I was going to buy the plans from diy or buy 2 kits and shave them. That didn’t make much sense to me so I used housings I already had. There is also some satisfaction in using junk to make something cool.

One thing I don’t like about a lot of fab9 housings is their size. For someone like me that doesn’t want to run 10” gears I was looking for the smallest housings I could find, something that would barely fit a 9” gear and give me the most clearance available.

Look how much meat this center housing could lose both top and bottom. The bottom is important for ground clearance but the excess above the case isn’t going to help any for packaging either.
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Blase said:
Dan looking GREAT!! Any idea what the WMS will be on your axle yet? Or what length the inner axles will be?
Click to expand...

Front wms = 65”
Rear wms = 63”

I was going to build them both at 65” but the rear Dana 70 shafts I already had put it at 63.125” which was close enough so I went with that instead.

Got the shafts measured up the other night, it’s around 21” for the short side and 29” for the long side, roughly. The seal center for the short side shaft is right at 8” from the end of the shaft splines.
 
If you want high quality "old school" 9" housings, you can get Speedway Engineering Grand National or Super Speedway housings for pretty cheap. These are not junk yard old factory housings, they are top tier high end 9" housings. Put a truss on top and a skid on the bottom and your good.

I need 2 9" ford rear ends for first and a second gen Camaros, these are what I'll be starting with.
 
I date I have built.
9" center from scratch / raw materials, Totally not worth it.
OEM housing front axles, Everybody loves JY builds
Rhodes diy kit, Very good for the price , a little thin materials for off road.
Trail Gear housings, Quality is really good for the money / includes an elitist sticker too. :laughing:


Dan said:
One thing I don’t like about a lot of fab9 housings is their size.
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The TG housing are 11" top to bottom of the 3rd face for reference.
 
RustyC said:
I date I have built.
9" center from scratch / raw materials, Totally not worth it.
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I thought the same thing about 1/2 way through the project. Having worked through it I feel a little different now. If I had all the parts in my shop I could probably knock out a front housing start to finish in an 8 hour work day, rear is way less. Add another couple hours for the shaves F/R.

Probably not worth it for a lot of people though, I personally like to build stuff so it was for me.
 
What's the thickness on the material on the Rhodes kit?

That's interesting that TG housing fits a 10" and is only 11" tall. How tall is a current gen RS housing? The DIY Fab one is 12" tall
 
fl0w3n said:
What's the thickness on the material on the Rhodes kit?

That's interesting that TG housing fits a 10" and is only 11" tall. How tall is a current gen RS housing? The DIY Fab one is 12" tall
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I've read that at least some of the 10" gears are actually only 9.5" (or 9.4")....not sure how common that is. I've got 4 of the TG in the shop...if I remember I can go double check that measurement.
 
Dan said:
I thought the same thing about 1/2 way through the project. Having worked through it I feel a little different now. If I had all the parts in my shop I could probably knock out a front housing start to finish in an 8 hour work day, rear is way less. Add another couple hours for the shaves F/R.

Probably not worth it for a lot of people though, I personally like to build stuff so it was for me.
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Obviously a lot of us get stuck on dollars and time spent, but there is something to be said for the enjoyment of the project in itself. I know I like to build just as much as wheeling, and something like building a housing seems like a fun challenge to me. When I built my front toy 8" housing similar to what you did, I knew I could have just bought a TG housing for $700, but building one was something I've wanted to do and it really only cost me about $200 in the end.
 
Great thread. Was looking at doing this last year before health sidetracked me for a bit.

Going by memory here, does rough stuff still have D60 snouts and any pros/cons vs using a cut off with brake flange.

Was thinking someone was stamping centers out of 1/4 (Fx, johns?) not sure if they would be better than the ferds.
 
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Sean said:
I've read that at least some of the 10" gears are actually only 9.5" (or 9.4")....not sure how common that is. I've got 4 of the TG in the shop...if I remember I can go double check that measurement.
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Yup....11".
 

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Treefrog said:
How far is it from the axle centerline to the face the 3rd member mounts to?
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Do you mean from axle shaft centerline to the machined face or do you mean from the inside of the front cover (bottom of housing the way it's laid in the shipping box) to the machined face? I don't know...wont' have time this morning to measure....but I can check later if I know what you're asking for.
 
Sean said:
Do you mean from axle shaft centerline to the machined face or do you mean from the inside of the front cover (bottom of housing the way it's laid in the shipping box) to the machined face? I don't know...wont' have time this morning to measure....but I can check later if I know what you're asking for.
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Machined face. It's a curiosity at this point, not something I actively need to figure out.
 
Treefrog said:
Machined face. It's a curiosity at this point, not something I actively need to figure out.
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No, from where to the machined face? The backside of the front of the fabricated center, i.e., how deep is it? Sorry...you probably made it completely clear and I'm just slow. :)
 
The TG housings I have are built with 3.5" tubes. The axle shaft should be centered in those tubes.
The tubes sit about .050" of the 3rd face. I would imagine they are built flush and machined flat. That .050" is a estimate based on feel but pretty close.
So axle center line would be "about" 1.7" from the face.
 
Sean said:
No, from where to the machined face? The backside of the front of the fabricated center, i.e., how deep is it? Sorry...you probably made it completely clear and I'm just slow. :)
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My bad. From the center of where the axle shafts would be. Thinking of it with the idea of making my own housing and wondering where the machined face is relative to the axle shafts. RustyC answered my question.
 
Rangerrod said:
Don’t the dodge unit bearings split apart without the stub shaft to hold them together? I know gtxracer used them on his Eaton build years ago.
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Yes. I asked Adamwende a while back. With that said, I have Dodge knuckles/UB on my 99-04 60. Carry a factory UB/stub as a trail spare just in case I need to 3 wheel out.
 
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