Yes sir! A buddy of mine has used it on almost all of his projects and I just consulted him prior. Based on his experience, he said it sticks much better to a primed surface and actually the instructions recommend it as well. I think you can spray over bare metal, but its one of those deals "for best results.. yada yada". Seam sealed first just because I wanted primer over those areas to hopefully reduce any potential adhesion problems. This was my first time using the Raptor Liner and all I can say is it's a killer product! Lays super even with just the right amount of sheen in my opinion. Good texture, but not to the point where its "snaggy" if you go to wipe down with an old towel or something.That looks great.
So, seam sealer, primer, coating? Does Raptor liner say it's not to be sprayed over bare metal?
What seam sealer are you using?
Isn't that a natural position for Jeeps???Hey bud, hate to tell you but I think your Jeep’s upside down
That's why they make stickers. Roll him back over.Isn't that a natural position for Jeeps???
A little of both. I work at Art Morrison Ent. (Manufacture Resto Mod style chassis) as their tooling/R&D and prototyping guy. I'm responsible for doing the one off stuff and proof of concept, then I hand it off once it's production ready to the guys in the shop.Amazing work. Love the engineering and the attention to detail on all the things. Welds are killer as well Is this a hobby? What do you do for a living?
what gas are you using, what shade of lens, fuck i have a hard time drawing a line as straight as your weld. damn good job.....
Most of it is in the fitup IMO.what gas are you using, what shade of lens, fuck i have a hard time drawing a line as straight as your weld. damn good job.....
i agree on fit up, but gas and all them perfect dimes dont just happen. i am running 75/25 and i can never get that real nice beads. but i think i do smaller whips and my dimes are way closerMost of it is in the fitup IMO.
Yup, I can grind and clean and lay nice stacks, but they are never that clean when finished. I also use 75/25 mix. Wonder if it's straight Argon.i agree on fit up, but gas and all them perfect dimes dont just happen. i am running 75/25 and i can never get that real nice beads. but i think i do smaller whips and my dimes are way closer
Fit up is most of it? Are you even looking at the guys welds?Most of it is in the fitup IMO.
Nothing special with the gas, just the common 75/25 mix. I've messed with 90/10 at work and it seemed to produce more spatter. I'm old school with shade haha I run a Jackson fixed shade for the giant lens. It's easier for me to look out of the corner of my eye than to try and turn my head in the tight quarters. Shade 11 gold lens is my go to for both TIG and MIG. Fitment definitely plays a huge part for consistency, but I like to pull the puddle so I can watch my puddle as it starts to "cool" between my stitch or whatever you wanna call it. Personally, I think that's what keeps me consistent the most. Also, I've had better luck with less spatter when pulling rather than pushing. All that mixed with a decent gun angle and a little practice get me to where I only have a few stubborn bb's that I need to knock off with a chisel and hammer. Most of them fall right off just gliding the chisel over. Hope that helps!what gas are you using, what shade of lens, fuck i have a hard time drawing a line as straight as your weld. damn good job.....
A little of both. I work at Art Morrison Ent. (Manufacture Resto Mod style chassis) as their tooling/R&D and prototyping guy. I'm responsible for doing the one off stuff and proof of concept, then I hand it off once it's production ready to the guys in the shop.
This is just a fun project to keep the hands busy outside of work. Once this is done for my dad I plan to give my trail rig a little bit of a makeover I don't wanna clog this place up too much, but I'll probably start another thread on that here in the next couple months or so.
Yes and no. I was hired on as a CAD guy/Engineer and they want us to spend some time in the shop to familiarize ourselves on the processes in which the chassis are manufactured and the types of drawings we would be sending down. New hire engineers seem to spend at least 2 weeks on the shop floor before moving up to the office. When I got hired on, that was the plan but a few weeks went by and I was still in the shop because they didn't have my computer built. Eventually I got moved upstairs and I thought I made the biggest mistake ever lol The monotony of cranking out shop drawings and modeling for 40 hrs a week just wasn't what I was expecting. After about two months of that our shop lead at the time approached me and asked if I would be willing to help him in the shop.Did you originally start out in the shop pumping out chassis'? I ask because it's obvious you've ran miles of beads.
What do you generally run for voltage and wire speed?
I've got to the point where I really never adjust my machine anymore. If I touch it I'm about to do thin sheetmetal, but 1/8" - 3/8" it's the same settings, if it's 1/2" or more I'll just do more passes.