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Going Commando

A little more progress. I finally got the chassis rolled out and tarped and was able to bring in the tub! The underside has been prepped and sprayed with Raptor Liner.

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Seam sealed a bunch and primed

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That looks great.

So, seam sealer, primer, coating? Does Raptor liner say it's not to be sprayed over bare metal?

What seam sealer are you using?
 
gt1guy said:
That looks great.

So, seam sealer, primer, coating? Does Raptor liner say it's not to be sprayed over bare metal?

What seam sealer are you using?
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Yes sir! A buddy of mine has used it on almost all of his projects and I just consulted him prior. Based on his experience, he said it sticks much better to a primed surface and actually the instructions recommend it as well. I think you can spray over bare metal, but its one of those deals "for best results.. yada yada". Seam sealed first just because I wanted primer over those areas to hopefully reduce any potential adhesion problems. This was my first time using the Raptor Liner and all I can say is it's a killer product! Lays super even with just the right amount of sheen in my opinion. Good texture, but not to the point where its "snaggy" if you go to wipe down with an old towel or something.

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Amazing work. Love the engineering and the attention to detail on all the things. Welds are killer as well:beer: Is this a hobby? What do you do for a living?
 
Mike Honcho said:
Amazing work. Love the engineering and the attention to detail on all the things. Welds are killer as well:beer: Is this a hobby? What do you do for a living?
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A little of both. I work at Art Morrison Ent. (Manufacture Resto Mod style chassis) as their tooling/R&D and prototyping guy. I'm responsible for doing the one off stuff and proof of concept, then I hand it off once it's production ready to the guys in the shop.

This is just a fun project to keep the hands busy outside of work. Once this is done for my dad I plan to give my trail rig a little bit of a makeover :smokin: I don't wanna clog this place up too much, but I'll probably start another thread on that here in the next couple months or so.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
i agree on fit up, but gas and all them perfect dimes dont just happen. i am running 75/25 and i can never get that real nice beads. but i think i do smaller whips and my dimes are way closer
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Yup, I can grind and clean and lay nice stacks, but they are never that clean when finished. I also use 75/25 mix. Wonder if it's straight Argon.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
what gas are you using, what shade of lens, fuck i have a hard time drawing a line as straight as your weld. damn good job.....
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Nothing special with the gas, just the common 75/25 mix. I've messed with 90/10 at work and it seemed to produce more spatter. I'm old school with shade haha I run a Jackson fixed shade for the giant lens. It's easier for me to look out of the corner of my eye than to try and turn my head in the tight quarters. Shade 11 gold lens is my go to for both TIG and MIG. Fitment definitely plays a huge part for consistency, but I like to pull the puddle so I can watch my puddle as it starts to "cool" between my stitch or whatever you wanna call it. Personally, I think that's what keeps me consistent the most. Also, I've had better luck with less spatter when pulling rather than pushing. All that mixed with a decent gun angle and a little practice get me to where I only have a few stubborn bb's that I need to knock off with a chisel and hammer. Most of them fall right off just gliding the chisel over. Hope that helps!
 
Simple'72CJ said:
A little of both. I work at Art Morrison Ent. (Manufacture Resto Mod style chassis) as their tooling/R&D and prototyping guy. I'm responsible for doing the one off stuff and proof of concept, then I hand it off once it's production ready to the guys in the shop.

This is just a fun project to keep the hands busy outside of work. Once this is done for my dad I plan to give my trail rig a little bit of a makeover :smokin: I don't wanna clog this place up too much, but I'll probably start another thread on that here in the next couple months or so.
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Did you originally start out in the shop pumping out chassis'? I ask because it's obvious you've ran miles of beads.

What do you generally run for voltage and wire speed?

I've got to the point where I really never adjust my machine anymore. If I touch it I'm about to do thin sheetmetal, but 1/8" - 3/8" it's the same settings, if it's 1/2" or more I'll just do more passes.
 
gt1guy said:
Did you originally start out in the shop pumping out chassis'? I ask because it's obvious you've ran miles of beads.

What do you generally run for voltage and wire speed?

I've got to the point where I really never adjust my machine anymore. If I touch it I'm about to do thin sheetmetal, but 1/8" - 3/8" it's the same settings, if it's 1/2" or more I'll just do more passes.
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Yes and no. I was hired on as a CAD guy/Engineer and they want us to spend some time in the shop to familiarize ourselves on the processes in which the chassis are manufactured and the types of drawings we would be sending down. New hire engineers seem to spend at least 2 weeks on the shop floor before moving up to the office. When I got hired on, that was the plan but a few weeks went by and I was still in the shop because they didn't have my computer built. Eventually I got moved upstairs and I thought I made the biggest mistake ever lol The monotony of cranking out shop drawings and modeling for 40 hrs a week just wasn't what I was expecting. After about two months of that our shop lead at the time approached me and asked if I would be willing to help him in the shop.

At this time, he was the do-all/go-to guy in the shop. Designed and built all the tooling, built all the protos for new products, and repair man for when any of the machines broke down. For the next 4 years or so I was kinda his wingman and learned an incredible amount from him. I'd fill in and build housing when our housing builder wasn't there, build IRS cradles when we were in a pinch, jump on the Universal table every now and then, etc. I've never been "assigned" a chassis table like all of the other welders in the shop because my main duties were to keep the guys fed with drawings and to be able to answer there questions. So long story short, no I've never been pumping out chassis at work haha

We run Lincoln 255's and 256's at work and I'm kinda like you as far as setting it and more or less leaving it. Usually I set my machine to 18-18.2V and 198-212 on the wire. That gets me by for pretty much all 1/8-1/4" material for fillet welds and what not. If I'm doing a corner to corner (1/4 to 1/4, 3/16 to 3/16,1/8 to 3/16) I usually kick it down to 17.4V and 170ish and just slow down and make sure its burning and filling on the thicker stuff. Whenever I cope round tube I always put a heavy bevel to get that weld to lay in nice and flat. Hope that helps!
 
Got the tub flipped back over and set back on the chassis. Masking and painting for the next few days!

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Shot the cage with gloss back

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Rustoleum tan bedliner base and then went over that with two coats of Khaki gloss rustoleum. Yes, I know most people would prefer me to actually paint this think proper but I didn't lol. Body is very wavy despite the pics and i wasn't gonna spend 3 months trying to get it perfect. It's a hunting rig/woods jeep at the end of the day. I want easy touch up and for it to look good from 10 ft.

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Been a long time coming to get it to this point! Man it felt good to unwrap and have the bulk of the painting done.

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Tossing around the idea of doing the rear aluminum skins black or Raptor lining them with a tan tint to match the body. Thoughts?
 
2 tone looks sick and has my vote. I love raptor liner. I did my MJ in toyota cement color and it still looks great after 6 plus years.
 
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