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The cup was intended to hold a little more fuel before draining out on side hills, but like I said I think I made the holes a little large for that.
I have another chunk of 3-3.5" tube that will be welded to the under side of the tank and poke through the floor to act as my sump for fuel pickup. Should be plenty out of the way and makes a nice easy gravity feed to the Bosch pump located on the frame rail.
I'm pretty reluctant to share because it will make me seem like a caveman... 😆 I've got a wedge dolly that looks like its bounced down the freeway all its life and a claw hammer lol That along with some knee forming, a dead blow, and DA gets me close enough for my impatience.That rusted out metal in the firewall still looks 5 times thicker than what my JK came from the factory with.
How did you do the shaping of that cover piece?
Practice makes perfect.The fact that you can make that with a claw hammer makes me, once again, want to burn my shop and everything in it to the ground
Yes it does. I'm in awe of his skills and just damn glad he's willing to post here. I've learned a lot following his builds.
I know. Lazze is crazy good. It's irritating because he makes it look so easy and I'm over here like "grog use rock, bang on metal hurr-durr".
I like to use just the small "locker activation compressor" instead of a full blown OBA setup, usually around $230 for those.
Just in case you're still on the fence, I'm a big fan of rear selectable not just for the street but because on slick or loose side hills a locked rear will slide downhill (unless you have rear steer). An open rear is much more likely to track true.
Lmao! I need to get back motivated on the jeepster and post up more. I've been busy with house projects and working on a new bastard child of a front end I plan to put in my jeep lol
Wire wheel mostly and the few spots where I knew I was gonna be welding components to I took a little more care. The paint stripping wheels for angle grinders work amazing not only on paint, but also rust and mill scale without clogging up and glazing over like a flap disc. After stripped I like to hit right where I plan to weld with a DA
Am I remembering correctly that you already had a fabbed 9" up front in your Jeep? What's the reason for the change?
When I initially built the front I didn't have all the parts when I first started assembling. Due to my lack of patience, I trusted some measurements I found online which in turn made the housing come out 3" narrower than I was intending for it to be. (60" WMS instead of 63" WMS) All fine and dandy with everything cycling straight up and down, but once twisted up and with the KP setup the steering arm wanted to eat the coil-over. My only option really was to limit the bump travel to about 4.75"-5" when everything else clears at 7" of bump. The new housing I'm building is 65" WMS and a hodgepodge of superduty stuff to make me happy. I should have loads more clearance with coil-over clearance by switching to the ball joint setup and gain a little frame clearance as well with the little extra track width. The 7" of bump should be more than achievable now and I shouldn't need to raise the overall ride height at all, just a little rework of fenders and hood.
Slight detour due to hunting season in full swing and waiting to get axles back from getting gears installed. In the mean time I've been picking at building a new from axle for my jeep. 65" WMS made up of some new parts, custom parts, and used parts lol
I did, they're home built
