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Future of KOH 4400 chassis/car development?

prep wins races.

a lot of the fast people in racing know they are better at making money than spinning wrenchs, so they hire people who can spin the wrenches.

i dont think jason has ever lost a race because of part failure within his control. he did run out of gas because he wanted to be part of the nitto cool kids club and blew out tires causing him fuel calcs to be wrong. this last year was a poor decision based sportsmanship than winning. not sure how that will sit with him for the rest of the year.

iirc he didn't have bad fuel calcs, something screwed up in the vent, giving them a false positive that they had filled the tank all the way up in the pits.


What would make you choose that over a 2.3 ecoboost?

First hand experience yes it is cheap to duplicate and makes good power, but my decision was mostly made around budget.

IMG_6027 (1).jpeg

Tell us the story on your project. Did you build it exactly like the Esslinger post?


Thats a 2012 2.5 duratec

Duratec is basically a NA ecoboost with port injection. I only ask because I was asked a lot why I didn't just use a 2.3 ecoboost.

Edit: There is huge Duratec support in the dirt track midget scene, as you know from that esslinger article. I've talked to the guys there numerous times as my dad runs their engines in his midget.

Esslinger brothers were the go-to peeps back in the day for the Pinto 2.3s. Great engines, but almost as heavy as a SBF.
 
Tell us the story on your project. Did you build it exactly like the Esslinger post?
 

I forgot about that build. :beer::beer:

mjlogan88, did you have the chance to weigh that engine before installing it?
 
I am really curious about the newer Mazda SkyActiv engines that replaced the Duratec/L-series in Mazdas. They make just a bit more power and seem more efficient. They are also readily available in a 2.5L turbo configuration. I imagine they probably weigh the same or maybe are even lighter than the Duratec/L-series stuff.

I dig the Duratec/Ecoboost stuff though. Sometimes I wish I had swapped a 2.5L Duratec in my Bronco II instead of building a 4.0L OHV Cologne for it.
I have a CX-30. It's pretty damn quick for a heavyish car with a 4cyl. Would need to ditch the Atkins cycle shit for a race motor. Other than that seems good so far.

Duratec is a direct bolt up to the 10R60. Top gear at redline with a 2-1 gearcase and 37's would net you about 125mph. Redline in first would be 18mph. Go with a 3k stall converter and i don't think you would need a low range.

Not sure how well the 60 would hold up, wonder if any of the 80 parts interchange
 
Such a fascinating concept, I appreciate the heck out of that axle/suspension. Steering knuckle gets challenging on the diff side unless you add another CV @ the pumpkin. Doable, just hasn't been explored yet
 
How different left to right would a shock tune be and how hard would they be to tune properly with such a vast difference in unsprung weight side to side with a diff offset that much on one arm?
 
How different left to right would a shock tune be and how hard would they be to tune properly with such a vast difference in unsprung weight side to side with a diff offset that much on one arm?
No worse than the multitude of beamed trucks running around.
 
Second question: how bad would the torque steer be in a front steering application?
Considering a standard solid axle has dramatic, torque steer in front wheel drive, I would not worry about it. When you run in four-wheel-drive, it evens out dramatically.

Signed a guy who has driven Bakersfield to Los Angeles several times.
 
Out-of-the-box packaging idea, but would something like a Subaru flat-4 or Porsche flat-6 work stuffed underneath the driver?
 
Like the TTB in the IRS UFO but front and back ??


It's not TTB though, the diff is just mounted to what would be a radius rod as I understand it?



As far as offsetting the drive train, it doesn't really make sense to have the diffs inline with the drivetrain anyway. Would be better to run the drivetrain offset with the tcase outputs ran in the center. Could use an Lt230 or scs

This would keep things more simple and make for a fully smooth belly and protected driveshafts.
 
Out-of-the-box packaging idea, but would something like a Subaru flat-4 or Porsche flat-6 work stuffed underneath the driver?
They wind up a little tall for that with manifolds. A flat engine does substantially reduce length though. And they tend to need less cooling for a given power level.
 
It's not TTB though, the diff is just mounted to what would be a radius rod as I understand it?



As far as offsetting the drive train, it doesn't really make sense to have the diffs inline with the drivetrain anyway. Would be better to run the drivetrain offset with the tcase outputs ran in the center. Could use an Lt230 or scs

This would keep things more simple and make for a fully smooth belly and protected driveshafts.
Single seat with offset motor for better balance. With a high pinion diff in the front A-arm, the DS would be very well protected. Same in the rear. There would be a flat belly. With all the diffs to 1 side, the motor wouldn't need to be offset that far to even things out. Duratec has the intake on the left side which is good to keep from cooking the driver.

Put a little rake in the front arms and things get even better clearance wise.
 
Single seat with offset motor for better balance. With a high pinion diff in the front A-arm, the DS would be very well protected. Same in the rear. There would be a flat belly. With all the diffs to 1 side, the motor wouldn't need to be offset that far to even things out. Duratec has the intake on the left side which is good to keep from cooking the driver.

Put a little rake in the front arms and things get even better clearance wise.
I feel like any offset to the passenger side, with passenger side diffs, things get tight quick.

What's the advantage off offset diffs?

I feel like that little drivetrain wouldn't be hard to ballance out, the driver, seat, and controls probably about equal the engine and transmission.
 
I feel like any offset to the passenger side, with passenger side diffs, things get tight quick.

What's the advantage off offset diffs?

I feel like that little drivetrain wouldn't be hard to ballance out, the driver, seat, and controls probably about equal the engine and transmission.
For any size of tires on the rocks having the diffs be as close to the tires as possible is huge help. Don’t have a big chunk of iron hanging right in the center to get hung up on. Campbell cars are offset rear diffs. The obstacle 4800 car of Brent Harrell is double offset diff. It might not solve everything but it definitely doesn’t hurt much.
 
For any size of tires on the rocks having the diffs be as close to the tires as possible is huge help. Don’t have a big chunk of iron hanging right in the center to get hung up on. Campbell cars are offset rear diffs. The obstacle 4800 car of Brent Harrell is double offset diff. It might not solve everything but it definitely doesn’t hurt much.

I completely agree on solid axles, noticed that way back in the day with Sami axles. Which, not a great comparison when you're diffs are tiny :laughing:

I thought we were talking a full independent set up though?
 
I thought we were talking a full independent set up though?
They are, but we’re way off in the weeds of fantasy land.

With an SCS you can have double offset diffs easy so it makes sense to explore potential theories. bdkw1 has double offset diffs on TTB f/r in a samurai. I’m looking forward to seeing how well that works out.
 
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