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Future of KOH 4400 chassis/car development?

bdkw1 said:
Interesting and cheap to duplicate.
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What would make you choose that over a 2.3 ecoboost?

First hand experience yes it is cheap to duplicate and makes good power, but my decision was mostly made around budget.

IMG_6027 (1).jpeg
 
Tech Tim said:
Very fair statement Bebop .

Are we designing for us key board jockeys or for someone to actually be competitive against the top 'o the field?

I can't even imagine what some teams engine budget is.....$50K? $100K?
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I think you can 2x that second figure.
Horschel brought a spare P600 setup from Danzio on the lakebed.

No matter what, that DTM E888 I was showing is close to a few millions...
 
mjlogan88 said:
What would make you choose that over a 2.3 ecoboost?

First hand experience yes it is cheap to duplicate and makes good power, but my decision was mostly made around budget.

IMG_6027 (1).jpeg
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Displacement? I really don't know, never really looked at duratecs. The 2.5 isn't DI, so that's a bonus to some people.
 
mjlogan88 said:
What would make you choose that over a 2.3 ecoboost?

First hand experience yes it is cheap to duplicate and makes good power, but my decision was mostly made around budget.

IMG_6027 (1).jpeg
Click to expand...
What's the sensor on the top of the valve cover ?
Cam position seems to be in the rear.

Also, external crank trigger is factory ?
 
arse_sidewards said:
Yes. Ford slaps a 36-1 wheel on just about everything they make this century. :laughing:
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WTF

We're worried about loosing a belt because of dirt and rocks, this wouldn't give me a warm and fuzzy at all.
 
bdkw1 said:
Displacement? I really don't know, never really looked at duratecs. The 2.5 isn't DI, so that's a bonus to some people.
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Thats a 2012 2.5 duratec

Duratec is basically a NA ecoboost with port injection. I only ask because I was asked a lot why I didn't just use a 2.3 ecoboost.

Edit: There is huge Duratec support in the dirt track midget scene, as you know from that esslinger article. I've talked to the guys there numerous times as my dad runs their engines in his midget.
 
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Bebop said:
WTF

We're worried about loosing a belt because of dirt and rocks, this wouldn't give me a warm and fuzzy at all.
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In practice they're fine. It's not like a belt where there's wearing surfaces and being subjected hours of operation in a dust cloud will wear things nor are there big areas of moving belt that will convey some fraction of the gravel that hits them into the pulley. It's like a shitty impeller spinning in open air. Any dirt that gets in will get tossed right back out.
 
Bebop said:
What's the sensor on the top of the valve cover ?
Cam position seems to be in the rear.

Also, external crank trigger is factory ?
Click to expand...
Top of the valve cover is VVT solenoid, intake side only

Yes that the factory crank trigger
 
arse_sidewards said:
In practice they're fine. It's not like a belt where there's wearing surfaces and being subjected hours of operation in a dust cloud will wear things nor are there big areas of moving belt that will convey some fraction of the gravel that hits them into the pulley. It's like a shitty impeller spinning in open air. Any dirt that gets in will get tossed right back out.
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I get your point but IDK if I'd take that bet. Always hated external crank triggers.
 
JR4X said:
What bad happens to it?
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Back in 2008 he paid way too much for a bling aftermarket ignition setup that used a paper thin tone ring bolted in front of the pulley and a sensor sensor held on with a floppy bent bracket and then had ignition problems right up until his shitty motor mounts fucked off and the crank wheel was the first part of the motor to get friendly with the radiator and he judges them all by that experience.

Or something along those lines. :laughing:
 
Bebop said:
All day, every day.
I have never changed a crank sensor in an LS, nor heard of someone needing to do so.
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Well now you have

Had one go bad in a service truck. But agreed the failures are rare, and can see your point on a front mount one getting thrashed if a belt is shredded.
 
mjlogan88 said:
Well now you have

Had one go bad in a service truck. But agreed the failures are rare, and can see your point on a front mount one getting thrashed if a belt is shredded.
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Nice !


I've emailed a couple of contacts in Germany that may have insight on who deals with the RC8 program.
 
mjlogan88 said:
Well now you have

Had one go bad in a service truck. But agreed the failures are rare, and can see your point on a front mount one getting thrashed if a belt is shredded.
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I've never seen a VR sensor in ANY application from any brand go bad for reason of damage. The windings in the sensor just die for whatever reason.

And I've had to pull the remnants of the cogged timing idler (which hits shit and wears down if the bearing goes bad) off of the magnet of than one Subaru crank sensor and pulled glitter off of at least half a dozen diff sensors.
 
mjlogan88 said:
Thats a 2012 2.5 duratec

Duratec is basically a NA ecoboost with port injection. I only ask because I was asked a lot why I didn't just use a 2.3 ecoboost.

Edit: There is huge Duratec support in the dirt track midget scene, as you know from that esslinger article. I've talked to the guys there numerous times as my dad runs their engines in his midget.
Click to expand...

I am really curious about the newer Mazda SkyActiv engines that replaced the Duratec/L-series in Mazdas. They make just a bit more power and seem more efficient. They are also readily available in a 2.5L turbo configuration. I imagine they probably weigh the same or maybe are even lighter than the Duratec/L-series stuff.

I dig the Duratec/Ecoboost stuff though. Sometimes I wish I had swapped a 2.5L Duratec in my Bronco II instead of building a 4.0L OHV Cologne for it.
 
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