Forklift for personal use (outdoor)

[Blown4x4]

A skid steer is the more versatile tool, but will tear up the ground. The four wheel steer extendable boom lifts are cool, but bring the suck when conditions get tight. However, a pneumatic wheeled forklift is tuff to beat for of highway lifting. The best solution for my needs was a rough terrain forklift. My first forklift I purchased was a Zetor ZTS rough terrain forklift. Based on the Zetor 7245 tractor it’s been fantastic after some repairs. There’s a Zetor dealer less then 20 miles from my house. The owner has visited the factory that these forklifts were assembled over seas. I’m a little over $3k into it after repairs.

There’s deals out there on these types of lifts. Just gotta be patient.

 

[montrose818]

https://offerup.com/item/detail/961032573/

seems better? looks kind of beat, but i guess they all do?

 

[bgaidan]

Are you sure there is not a computer on that thing?

I have one that looks mighty similar and the computer control the throttle and there is no troubleshooting without their software and cord that looks like some DOS based BS.
(There is even a vacuum port that ties directly into the ECU)

There isn't even any throttle linkage to manually engage the carb.

This one has an H20 nissan engine in it. I'd have to look to see if it has an ecu. I'm getting mixed answers on google, depending on the age. If it does, it's pretty basic....pretty sure it's the same block as the 60's to 80's Datsuns & Nissans. I haven't dug into it too much, but I do know it has actual carb linkage.

 

[Stix]

Anything with a Nissan will be solid. We had a komatsu that the tech came out to look at. He couldn’t believe the hour meter. Thousands and thousands of hours. He said it was the equivalent of a car with a million miles. Ran like a top.

 

[montrose818]

https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/hvo/d/bakersfield-forklift-hyster/7210105735.html

looks like a good deal to me?

 

[Benny]

Seems cheap enough to be a scam. Have you called on it?

 

[Projectjunkie]

Rule out the scam, then go buy that fucking thing, don't wait

 

[montrose818]

Transporting it might set me back $500 though, its about 100 miles away, so ill have to outsource it to a tow truck, 1800+500?

 

[Projectjunkie]

It's probably worth the transport too

go look at it with full price money in your pocket

look it over, the paint looks like a recent aerosol overhaul, it's an older machine than it looks, but get as much info as you can and go check it out, my forklift guru gets up early, I'll forward it to him and he'll tell you what to look for

 

[montrose818]

It's probably worth the transport too

go look at it with full price money in your pocket

look it over, the paint looks like a recent aerosol overhaul, it's an older machine than it looks, but get as much info as you can and go check it out, my forklift guru gets up early, I'll forward it to him and he'll tell you what to look for

dont bug your guru yet, let me see if its even real first, anything half decent gets smatched up within minutes on LA craigslist. appteciate the help man. thanks!

 

[larboc]

Transporting it might set me back $500 though, its about 100 miles away, so ill have to outsource it to a tow truck, 1800+500?

As long as the "leak" isn't a wasted transmission or something similarly terminal you can't go wrong.

 

[Blown4x4]

I would be all over this lift if I didn’t have two already. Has a 300 ford inline 6 gas engine.

 

[montrose818]

there she is. 5500 + 400 to deliver this 15k lb paper weight.

forks slowly droop at all heights. i hear some hissing, from the mas but no leaks. i dont think all 3 cylinders to raise it are leaking, could it be a valve? ir in the system? fluid was low.

theres a red cylinder next to the lift cylinders with a shrader valve, is that for bleeding?

noob here. thanks

 

[montrose818]

and why did i buy it if the forks were dropping? Well because I am an idiot and didnt test it. Ad said runs great, so did the nice old armenian man at the shop, and being on a real time crunch and feeling overly trustful I went through with it. Hopefully its not a moneypit, because if it is, its going right back up for sale

 

[trampas]

I have a difficult time trusting Armenians.

 

[not2hye]

there she is. 5500 + 400 to deliver this 15k lb paper weight.

forks slowly droop at all heights. i hear some hissing, from the mas but no leaks. i dont think all 3 cylinders to raise it are leaking, could it be a valve? ir in the system? fluid was low.

theres a red cylinder next to the lift cylinders with a shrader valve, is that for bleeding?

noob here. thanks

DO NOT MESS WITH THAT CYLINDER!

Its a likely a hydro smooth unit. It’s an accumulator to smooth the mast out.

You probably need piston seals. Super common issue on used lifts, can be really easy to fix, or you’re going to snap a bigass vise mounted on the back of your service truck in half with you and 3 other guys hanging off the end of a 10 foot piece of pipe slipped over a chain wrench.
Is the free lift cylinder leaking out of the top?
Seals are cheap.

What engine is in that? I hope to god it’s a Mazda, and not a gm.

 

[Ransil]

there she is. 5500 + 400 to deliver this 15k lb paper weight.

forks slowly droop at all heights. i hear some hissing, from the mas but no leaks. i dont think all 3 cylinders to raise it are leaking, could it be a valve? ir in the system? fluid was low.

theres a red cylinder next to the lift cylinders with a shrader valve, is that for bleeding?

noob here. thanks

grease the slide parts, run it up and down a dozen times, that is all mine needed

 

[not2hye]

grease the slide parts, run it up and down a dozen times, that is all mine needed

Never can have too much grease in the mast channels. Go grab about 3 cans of inner slide lube and a can of chain lube and go to town. If it’s gummed up, pressure wash the mast channels and chains and start fresh.

Also make sure you grease the mast j hooks, tilt forward all the way and you should see them where the mast is hung on the drive axle. Grease everything, if they won’t take grease, remove zerk and hit it with the portapower, or zerk cleaner tool. They will gum up and not take grease. When those get worn, it’s not a cheap fix. Grease tilt pins and steer axle, might need to pull floor pan to acces the rearward tilt pin zerk, might have an access hole on the side on some. Side shift should also have zerks on the top and the bottom.

If its jerking or sticking it may need to be shimmed. Run it to the top at full speed, and watch when it slams to the limit. If one side Racks up a bit harder on one side, you need to check shims and chain adjustment.

Chain adjustment should be checked routinely, with every oils service.

Set forks dead dead level and adjust the secondary chains until all mast channels are even on the bottom, adjust freelift chains until the forks are about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the ground at the heel. There’s a special socket that makes it really easy, or you can wrench it. Chain bolts may need to be chased with a 15/16 fine thread (iirc) chaser (should be that size, may be bigger on the 8k lift). They get gummy and nicked up and cleaning the threads really helps with adjustment.

Set forks about 6” off the ground and forks wide enough apart, stand on forks and transfer weight side to side to check the twist on the carriage. If it’s really loose, might be time for shims or rollers.

shim adjustment is bit more work, gotta disconnect sideshift hoses and chain anchors, lift up. Carriage will sit on floor, back the lift up. You can pull the snap rings off and change shims under rollers, bearings need to be free, and rollers should be replaced if worn. Drive lift to line up the mast with rollers, drop back down and reconnect everything.

 

[montrose818]

wow not2hye thanks for that info! Really, greasing the cylinder shafts might stop the internal leaking?

How much should I pay to have the seals relaced onthe three lift cylinders? I dont have a bigass vice or the time/energy for that. Ill try the grease trick, but i want it working right. Thanks for all that info. I will call a tech for all that but now i have an idea of whats to be done.

Yes its a GM 4.3, i thought that was a good thing, doh. LS swap it?

Is it a decent forklift, or did I really fuck up? This waa the best I could find that wasnt 50 years old...

edit: will order slide lube, have chain lube. Should I spray the cylinder pistons (shiny part)? Not understanding how lubing might help the dropping. Thanks man

 

[bgaidan]

My 6k leaks down a bit too. I plan to run it until it gets bad enough to make me want to fuck with it.

 

[gunracer1]

my Toyota leaks down, sometimes faster than others. I use it as a car lift all the time. so I have a set of hooks welded up to the top of the mast and I chain it of so it won't kill me if I pop a line.

 

[not2hye]

wow not2hye thanks for that info! Really, greasing the cylinder shafts might stop the internal leaking?

How much should I pay to have the seals relaced onthe three lift cylinders? I dont have a bigass vice or the time/energy for that. Ill try the grease trick, but i want it working right. Thanks for all that info. I will call a tech for all that but now i have an idea of whats to be done.

Yes its a GM 4.3, i thought that was a good thing, doh. LS swap it?

Is it a decent forklift, or did I really fuck up? This waa the best I could find that wasnt 50 years old...

edit: will order slide lube, have chain lube. Should I spray the cylinder pistons (shiny part)? Not understanding how lubing might help the dropping. Thanks man

The chrome rods don’t need any lube. lubing them will not fix anything. The mast channel where the rollers ride on the inside need the lube, spraying the cylinder rods will actually decrease the seal life in some cases. Might be cheaper to pull the cylinders out and take them to a hydro shop. You might be able to pull the freelift rod out without pulling the whole cylinder out of the machine. That is the most used cylinder and first to leak. I don’t have much experience with that specific gen of hyster, but they’re fairly similar year to rear, reasonably speaking.

I was was just giving you other general maintenance advice to avoid other issues before they start. People don’t understand how important some of these things are, and I bet it hasn’t been done on that lift since the last time it was at the dealership shop. Which I have watched dealer techs skip on stuff like that and it infuriates me.

Might be be worth paying the $130 for a dealer tech to come do an oil service on it (they should also do all the stuff I mentioned above) and tell him to write a quick quote, they always will try to upsell from a service, but usually an oil service will get you a quick diag more or less.

ohh and the 4.3 is a pita, great power. But you gotta pull the engine to replace the starter. And spark plugs are a techs nightmare on those. From a tech standpoint. I hate them. But also love stomping the skinny pedal on the shop lift with a 4.3. and if you think an ls will be fun. Good luck.

 

[Mattafact]

Never can have too much grease in the mast channels. Go grab about 3 cans of inner slide lube and a can of chain lube and go to town. If it’s gummed up, pressure wash the mast channels and chains and start fresh.

Also make sure you grease the mast j hooks, tilt forward all the way and you should see them where the mast is hung on the drive axle. Grease everything, if they won’t take grease, remove zerk and hit it with the portapower, or zerk cleaner tool. They will gum up and not take grease. When those get worn, it’s not a cheap fix. Grease tilt pins and steer axle, might need to pull floor pan to acces the rearward tilt pin zerk, might have an access hole on the side on some. Side shift should also have zerks on the top and the bottom.

If its jerking or sticking it may need to be shimmed. Run it to the top at full speed, and watch when it slams to the limit. If one side Racks up a bit harder on one side, you need to check shims and chain adjustment.

Chain adjustment should be checked routinely, with every oils service.

Set forks dead dead level and adjust the secondary chains until all mast channels are even on the bottom, adjust freelift chains until the forks are about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the ground at the heel. There’s a special socket that makes it really easy, or you can wrench it. Chain bolts may need to be chased with a 15/16 fine thread (iirc) chaser (should be that size, may be bigger on the 8k lift). They get gummy and nicked up and cleaning the threads really helps with adjustment.

Set forks about 6” off the ground and forks wide enough apart, stand on forks and transfer weight side to side to check the twist on the carriage. If it’s really loose, might be time for shims or rollers.

shim adjustment is bit more work, gotta disconnect sideshift hoses and chain anchors, lift up. Carriage will sit on floor, back the lift up. You can pull the snap rings off and change shims under rollers, bearings need to be free, and rollers should be replaced if worn. Drive lift to line up the mast with rollers, drop back down and reconnect everything.

Still waiting for you to find me a lift

 

[not2hye]

Still waiting for you to find me a lift

I haven’t been by the shop forever until last week. Used inventory is bad, and the boneyard trucks have been picked apart beyond the point of reassembly. We have a ton of electric lifts off lease that would go for cheap. But that’s usually not an option for home gamers. I keep telling them I can sell the sub par market used machines. But my boss just sees junk and sends it off to scrap or boneyard. :rolleyes:

 

[Dethmachinefab]

I don't think piston seals are your problem, if it's not leaking out the gland seal. Some lifts don't even have a piston end seal, just a bushing. Displacement, rod side vs piston side says that can't happen unless fluid leaves the cylinder. Only way it leaves is out the port or out a leaking gland. Valve is most likely the issue.

Now mast tilt is a different story, because its pulling the cylinder and fluid would bypass the rod seal into the larger displacement area behind it.

 

[Clemson13]

I haven’t been by the shop forever until last week. Used inventory is bad, and the boneyard trucks have been picked apart beyond the point of reassembly. We have a ton of electric lifts off lease that would go for cheap. But that’s usually not an option for home gamers. I keep telling them I can sell the sub par market used machines. But my boss just sees junk and sends it off to scrap or boneyard. :rolleyes:

That sucks. I am also in the market for a smaller old unit. I don't mind something that needs a bunch of work at a over scrap price, i just dont want to pay 5k for something to take things out of the truck every 3rd week.

Do i need one.....maybe, maybe not. But damn do i keep having toolboxes or big drill presses sitting in my truck bed with no way to get them out. Some jackass buit my shop without an overhead gantry crane. Bastard


Out of interest would 3k be big enough for most home use? I just have fears that i could end up with some awesome toy that was too big for a baby machine....

 

[bgaidan]

That sucks. I am also in the market for a smaller old unit. I don't mind something that needs a bunch of work at a over scrap price, i just dont want to pay 5k for something to take things out of the truck every 3rd week.

Do i need one.....maybe, maybe not. But damn do i keep having toolboxes or big drill presses sitting in my truck bed with no way to get them out. Some jackass buit my shop without an overhead gantry crane. Bastard

Keep an eye on the industrial auctions. The typical rule I've seen around here is about $1 per pound of capacity for something in decent shape that's not totally clapped out. The recent auctions I've watched have gone a bit below that.

I paid $3200 for a 6k Komatsu with a nissan H20 engine. It IS pretty clapped out, but after putting another $250 in tune up parts and a new propane carb, I have it running pretty damn well. I'll probably drop another $180 on a new gas carb and call it done. For what I'll use it for, it should last quite a while.

 

[montrose818]

could this be causing it? had a mech take one out

 

[Clemson13]

Keep an eye on the industrial auctions. The typical rule I've seen around here is about $1 per pound of capacity for something in decent shape that's not totally clapped out. The recent auctions I've watched have gone a bit below that.

I paid $3200 for a 6k Komatsu with a nissan H20 engine. It IS pretty clapped out, but after putting another $250 in tune up parts and a new propane carb, I have it running pretty damn well. I'll probably drop another $180 on a new gas carb and call it done. For what I'll use it for, it should last quite a while.

Does that hold for smaller machines too? I see a local add for one that runs, 3K for 1500. It just needs a seat an "Brake work". I assume that means the breaks DONT work.

 

[montrose818]

I am paying 1500 to have the 3 cylinders resealed onsite. Seems like a decent price. There is still a chance that it could be the valve. It would cost $200 to build a ball valve to test the system, plus 200 labor. I figured I would put that toward a reseal, that way its good for a long time.

Will update tomorrow. fwiw mechanics said gm 4.3 is a good motor.