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94toytruck said:
Tossed a long side inner Saturday. Didn't even hear it break. I really don't want to loose my 50* steering but I'm real sick of breaking shafts. This one trashed some CTM caps and the outer is roached as well.
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40 spline and 1550 time then?
 
06h3 said:
40 spline and 1550 time then?
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Doubtful, R+P will be the weak link then. Gonna talk to Branik and see what they say. I split the inner yoke like that on every one. Kinda feel this shouldn't be a issue with a 4cylinder.

chaplinfj60 said:
or reduce steering angle, and if so how much?
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My inner turns 47 and out 45. Honestly reducing steering angle has it's own issues as well.
 
wow 4 cyl.... are just getting crazy bound up. so to run CTMs do you have to grind out the shaft yoke to make the clearance for 50 degrees steering?
 
94toytruck said:
Doubtful, R+P will be the weak link then. Gonna talk to Branik and see what they say. I split the inner yoke like that on every one. Kinda feel this shouldn't be a issue with a 4cylinder.



My inner turns 47 and out 45. Honestly reducing steering angle has it's own issues as well.
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limit the front to turn 37-40* but add rear steer to also get 37-40* out back :flipoff2:
 
06h3 said:
limit the front to turn 37-40* but add rear steer to also get 37-40* out back :flipoff2:
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Eew, why would I do that? So I break shafts on both ends? I have zero interest in a rear steer car and certainly none in adding it to this one.

chaplinfj60 said:
wow 4 cyl.... are just getting crazy bound up. so to run CTMs do you have to grind out the shaft yoke to make the clearance for 50 degrees steering?
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I'm actually pretty good about not binding it up especially not turned sharp. Rarely do I use my doubler, it's more so I have stock low and 4.7 low. My shafts are machined to turn further. The joint really doesn't matter. I ran Spicers with shafts like this before they still need to be machined so the yoke clears.
 
94toytruck said:
Eew, why would I do that? So I break shafts on both ends? I have zero interest in a rear steer car and certainly none in adding it to this one.



I'm actually pretty good about not binding it up especially not turned sharp. Rarely do I use my doubler, it's more so I have stock low and 4.7 low. My shafts are machined to turn further. The joint really doesn't matter. I ran Spicers with shafts like this before they still need to be machined so the yoke clears.
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Toyota case? Just curious how it's holding up after breaking 300M shafts. I'm going to be running 1480 Yukons and 4340s with a dual 23 spline Marlin with 4.7s in the rear case.....but wondering if I should be looking at a beefed D300.
 
Sean said:
Toyota case? Just curious how it's holding up after breaking 300M shafts. I'm going to be running 1480 Yukons and 4340s with a dual 23 spline Marlin with 4.7s in the rear case.....but wondering if I should be looking at a beefed D300.
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Yup, old dual Toyota gear driven. 4.7 gears from Inch worm, TG adapter, FROR twin stick, Bobby treated a rear output for me and all 21spline. It's had a long hard life but holding so far. I've never run 300m stuff. I've broken a ton of stuff over the years though with that setup. I run 40" stickies and 5.38s and has been fine.

I always felt the people running stock axle gears were the ones breaking cases.
 
94toytruck said:
Yup, old dual Toyota gear driven. 4.7 gears from Inch worm, TG adapter, FROR twin stick, Bobby treated a rear output for me and all 21spline. It's had a long hard life but holding so far. I've never run 300m stuff. I've broken a ton of stuff over the years though with that setup. I run 40" stickies and 5.38s and has been fine.

I always felt the people running stock axle gears were the ones breaking cases.
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I'm running a 21 spline 2.28 box to a 5.0 Atlas in my 1st buggy with the 22re and W56 with 40" stickies and 5.86s. Broke a couple D60 4340 shafts....no issues either. This next build is 23 spline but Toy cases and D60/14B with 40" regular tires and 5.38s. I doubt it will see that much abuse since it's a full bodied 4Runner.
 
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It seems if you can cushion the cases enough with downstream gearing they hold up. Anytime toyota axle guys kill a toyota case they have like 4.10s or 4.56s in the diffs. 5.29 guys seem to keep cases together.

Then the 1 ton axle toyota case guys seem to do ok with 5.38s. Ive never heard of someone killing a toyota case with 6.17s or 7.17s in the diff.

I have a buddy who killed the rear output on his toyota case with 5.38s and sticky 43s. super bound up and SNAP. I wonder if it had 6.17s or 7.17s if it would have lived.

I bet the 5.0 atlas really helps cushion the 2.28 box up front.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Stock rear outputs aren't all that strong. That's why they make a few different chromo options.

But yes, lower gears down stream will always help.
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I kinda feel like I'm at a point where I break an output, I don't really want to spend the money on a chromoly output in its place and I should just go to a beefed up D300 or Atlas. Any idea how much stronger the chromo outputs are than factory? Are we talking 30% or something markedly higher?
 
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