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Building a mild 460 for bronco

Still need to clean everything up. Started rushing to get it ready.
As soon as break in was over started the new years bon fire
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What should my base timing be? I have a ppam recurved distributor from ppam.
We did 20min of break in with amsoil break in oil. Now do I just change it with the oil I plan on running?
 
Personally I'd go longer than 20 minutes on the break in oil, 20 min for cam break in, sure, but a couple hundred miles before changing the oil.

Unless you won't drive much, then Change the oil before your first high rpm sustained event.

As for timing, it depends on your motor and your setup. You can start at 10* base, but you'll need to know some hard pulls from about 1200 rpm to about 3.5k rpm, small adjustment and repeat as necessary. When it feels slow or sounds bad, back it off a couple.
 
Provience said:
Personally I'd go longer than 20 minutes on the break in oil, 20 min for cam break in, sure, but a couple hundred miles before changing the oil.

Unless you won't drive much, then Change the oil before your first high rpm sustained event.

As for timing, it depends on your motor and your setup. You can start at 10* base, but you'll need to know some hard pulls from about 1200 rpm to about 3.5k rpm, small adjustment and repeat as necessary. When it feels slow or sounds bad, back it off a couple.
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I thought it was 20 min for the cam break in. let it cool, change the oil then run it hard to seat the rings and change the oil again at 1000 miles
 
ANGELO said:
I thought it was 20 min for the cam break in. let it cool, change the oil then run it hard to seat the rings and change the oil again at 1000 miles
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that'll work, should be no problem.

I'm just throwing out what I do because you had a question mark at the end of your plan :flipoff2:

I look at it just as cutting out 1 oil change, and at the 100-200 mile mark getting rid of the break in oil and going to the "rest of it's life" use and service schedule.
 
Provience said:
that'll work, should be no problem.

I'm just throwing out what I do because you had a question mark at the end of your plan :flipoff2:

I look at it just as cutting out 1 oil change, and at the 100-200 mile mark getting rid of the break in oil and going to the "rest of it's life" use and service schedule.
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there is a question mark. I have no idea what im doing:homer:
 
ANGELO said:
there is a question mark. I have no idea what im doing:homer:
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You really aren't going to overwhelm the filter in 20 minutes, as long as it isn't making real bad noises, go ahead and use the break in oil for setting the rings as well once you are done with the cam.

I wouldn't recommend over 500 miles on that break in fluid. Once you change the fluid, you are pretty well saying it is "done"

Unless this is something going to like a drag motor or an event truck that is going to live under high load. In that case, break in the cam and give it a load cycle, then change the oil and hit the track.

you really can't screw it up at this point, changing the oil right after cam break in and then 500-1k miles later won't hurt anything either.
 
If that's a dizzy from Scott, I think base will be closer to 14-16, to be all in at 34-36 ish. Thats how I recall him preferring to set up?
 
Scotty said "typically 14 BTDC initial and 36 total"

this truck has a snorkel. Its 4" from the carb, through the inline air filter. the end of the filter reduces to 3" to make it through the cowel. will 3" be enough to feed the 460? I dont remember how i figured 3" was enough for the modified, but i never had issues:homer:
 
Yes, it'll be fine.

Smaller tube=increased velocity, that's all.

How big is your intake carb base opening? Probably less than pie1.5square
 
3" is 76mm, it'll probably be fine unless you turn a ton of rpm's.


accufabracing.com

CFM Air Flow - Throttle Body - Accufab Racing

What is CFM? The air flowing through a product is measured in Cubic Feet per Minute, CFM. It's important to flow test a performance throttle body and find the CFM
accufabracing.com accufabracing.com

Not exactly comparable, but useful enough for reference..
 
ANGELO said:
. will 3" be enough to feed the 460? I dont remember how i figured 3" was enough for the modified, but i never had issues:homer:
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Yes.

Think about how much more shit is coming out the exhaust due to the amount of fuel burn that turns into gases and that goes out a 3" or 3.5" exhaust just fine.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Yes.

Think about how much more shit is coming out the exhaust due to the amount of fuel burn that turns into gases and that goes out a 3" or 3.5" exhaust just fine.
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Did you ever notice how exhaust valves are smaller than intake valves? Your reasoning does not make any sense.
 
If we want to calculate the CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) for a 4 cycle motor we can multiply the cubic inch displacement of the engine by the maximum rpm (Revolutions Per Minute) and divide the result by 3456. Then we multiply the results by the volumetric efficiency of the motor.
 
M92PV4U said:
Did you ever notice how exhaust valves are smaller than intake valves? Your reasoning does not make any sense.
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Yeah, I thought of that but didn't want to complicate the analogy.

Exhaust can tolerate less efficient path out of the immediate cylinder because it's being pushed by ~100psi of compression as the piston comes up vs some fraction of atmospheric as piston goes down.

Yes, some 90s turds come with throttle bodies bigger than their exhausts. You can usually free up a decent number of ponies by putting a proper exhaust on these engine though.:flipoff2:

The volume increase comes from the temp increase. You're basically tacking carbon onto some proportion of the O2 molecules and making things hot in the process.
 
3" intake should be ok for your application, which is dry air (no muddy water) more important than peak hp. A race engine is another story.
 
Got the hood on, checked timing and carb and Took it for a ride. Trans wouldn't shift into 3. Handling was terrifying, then I realized the front hubs were locked. Unlocked them, and it was still terrifying but how I remember it. Engine did great, needs some carb tuning though. I think I might get a colder thermostat also. Would 180 be good for this?
The trans is dumping fluid, pretty sure from the front seal. While inspecting it, I left the vacuum line for the trans off, so that's probably why it wasn't shifting.
I was already planning a axle swap right away. I have a double for it also, but I was talking my self out of it. But I guess now that the trans is coming down I might as well.

I have a junk e40d waiting to steal the gears from.
Only one of the exhaust cutouts is open in the video
 
what thermostat are you running right now? 195*?

I wouldn't bother changing it out, are you having issues with it running hot :confused:
 
Pressure washed everything real good, and connected the vacuum line to the trans. Shifting fine now.
The oil sender is dumping fuel all down the bell housing, the fuel pump block off is dripping, and the trans pan seal that I did probably 5 years ago has a crack at every bolt and is leaking. Might have over tightened it a bit.
Now straight into a axle swap.
 
ANGELO said:
Yes 195. It was around 210 while we were running it.
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210 seems like the warm side of fine, not sure it's worth messing with or that a colder thermostat would help. 195* should be just as wide open as a 180* at 200*+. Fan shroud/radiator degunked/radiator obstructions in that order would be the things to check before bothering with a colder thermostat.
 
ANGELO said:
Pressure washed everything real good, and connected the vacuum line to the trans. Shifting fine now.
The oil sender is dumping fuel all down the bell housing, the fuel pump block off is dripping, and the trans pan seal that I did probably 5 years ago has a crack at every bolt and is leaking. Might have over tightened it a bit.
Now straight into a axle swap.
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oil sender is an easy fix with thread tape at least, if it won't stop leaking with just "one more" turn :laughing:
 
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