YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I was just thinking that with the 205. Most atlas (round 6)adapters are fairly compact and aluminum. While some of the 203 or 205 adapters can be fairly large and cast iron.
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Buggy weights, what ya'll got?
- Thread starter No way
- Start date
I was just thinking that with the 205. Most atlas (round 6)adapters are fairly compact and aluminum. While some of the 203 or 205 adapters can be fairly large and cast iron.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
I've got corner scales, but they max out at 1,000Lbs each.
Hmmmm, I'd like to see if the yota weighs less than 4k then, but I doubt it. I basically did everything I could to make sure the flatbed weighed the same or more than the stocker. You have a rig built up to put two scales under each tire and just add up front and rear weights for heavier rigs?
white-rhino
Older than dirt
I think my 203/205 is around 280#. (some research agrees with this, other says lighter) I would love to switch to a 4 speed Atlas and save some weight and cut down on the bulk but it's not in the budget, nor do I think it 150# savings will make enough of a performance difference to justify the cost. Yeah, I know, cutting everywhere you can adds up but again, for me it's not worth the $$$$.
Bebop
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 1458
- Messages
- 4,850
It's arguably stronger too.
And if you spend the money it definitely can be made stronger.
It's just the ratios that suck.
JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
LQ4 (iron block 6.0) / TH400 / Atlas
05+ D60 up front, 14-bolt rear
2.5" air shocks
39s
gas tank 3/4 full was 3900# with 58% front bias
Weighed on friends race scales in my shop
irate4x4.com
05+ D60 up front, 14-bolt rear
2.5" air shocks
39s
gas tank 3/4 full was 3900# with 58% front bias
Weighed on friends race scales in my shop
Johnny's Goatbuilt JHF buggy build
I have been documenting this build on my local forum, but there is very little traffic left there and the syrup suckers are just keeping it on life support to get their ad revenue. I have thought about moving this over here for a while, and after consistently coming here to ask tech questions, I...
irate4x4.com
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Bebop
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 1458
- Messages
- 4,850
94toytruck
Eastcoast crawler
When I weighed my old toyota I was shocked it was 4700lbs trail ready. Then I took a step back and realized how much BS was there that wasn't needed.
Oh yeah 22re/w56/duals, 60/14, 2.5s, p
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
Not mine, but another data point. Here is a buddy of mine's BFR CK1 with an LQ4, TH400, Atlas, Kingpin Ford Dana 60, Sterling 10.25 w/ disc brake conversion, 2.0 coilovers and air bumps, belly skinned in 3/16" Ar400, and on 40" Nittos. It weighed 3,770 as pictured, not sure how much fuel was in his 22 gallon fuel cell. I am hoping mine comes out about the same or slightly lighter.
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ridered3
Low Talent Wheelin
2 seater Juggy weighs 4100 trail ready (no passengers). Roughly 6’ of Jeep frame rails (behind motor mounts to behind seats). 6.0LS. TH400. 2spd Atlas. Kingpin 60. 70U. 2.5” air shocks. 39” Reds and Racelines. 18 gallons of gas and easily 200 pounds of tools and misc spare fluids etc.
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ridered3
Low Talent Wheelin
4 seater buggy weighs 3700 (no passengers). All HREW chassis and ZJ drivetrain. 4.0 Jeep, 42RE. 231 w/ NWF crawl box. Ford ball joint 60. 14 bolt. 2” air shocks. 42” Reds and Racelines. 6 gallons of gas.
woody
The internet is just a fad.
L67, 700, MM300, portals, 42" Milestars, 275# of water/front tire, 12 gallons of fuel, tools, cooler, 59% bias.
3900# trail ready.
3900# trail ready.
Snowy
Well-known member
4490lbs ready to wheel without me in the driver seat. Had to do corner weights at work with 4 scaled lifts since my race scale pads only go to 1k lbs.
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Peter S
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2021
- Member Number
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Sterlingfire
ignant
Freedom units bro, freedom units
Toyota drivetrains must be pretty heavyI am surprised it weighs that much.
The weight on this one surprises me as well.
THIS!!!! 100%. Nothing grinds my gears more then when people say oh my God your H3 is such a heavy pig. It weighs no more then a typical JK on 40s but people look at a rig and assume. I’m 6800 lbs and I’m now about 600 lbs more then my brothers bare bones JK on 1 tons and 40s but before a cage, 43s, heavy doubler t case, etc. we had a very comparable setup and we were within 200 lbs.
Same thing with buggy guys. It’s “probably 3300 lbs” then they list their drivetrain and the drivetrain alone is 3300 lbs. typical 1 tons are about 1000 lbs alone. Tire and wheels are 500-600 lbs on 40in plus. Your already halfway to your 3300 lbs and you haven’t even accounted for engine/trans/t case/ driveshafts/fuel/the chassis!!!
72blazer
Marion Cobretti
When I weighed my old toyota I was shocked it was 4700lbs trail ready. Then I took a step back and realized how much BS was there that wasn't needed.
Oh yeah 22re/w56/duals, 60/14, 2.5s, pipe exo cage
Shit like this pisses me off. Tell that kid to harness in when he’s wheeling!!
72blazer
Marion Cobretti
Since guys are posting full body rigs and not so much “buggies” then I’ll add the Bluggy.
Full boxed ‘72 Blazer frame, full cage, 350/th350/203-lo max/ rocks/ 47s/ 5 seater with 2 propane tanks. Came in at 5600 with just me in it at the CAT scale. Thing is stupid heavy and hoping to cut some weight soon.
Full boxed ‘72 Blazer frame, full cage, 350/th350/203-lo max/ rocks/ 47s/ 5 seater with 2 propane tanks. Came in at 5600 with just me in it at the CAT scale. Thing is stupid heavy and hoping to cut some weight soon.
KungFooMASTA
El Stupido
4000lbs even on Coop scale. Kore Defender. 4.3, T400, atlas 2 spd. Chevy kp 60, shaved 14bolt with disc brakes, full hydro, 2.5 c/os without res, 15 gal fuel cell, 43 Baja XS on KMC aluminum beadlocks. I cant remember if that was with tools and cooler or without. Add about 100lbs if not. That also might have been with the old 42” Pitbulls on steel weld on beadlocks. I will scale it again next time I take it out. Our Coop decided to shut down our elevator in town 
and shut the scales off so I will have to go a few miles out of town now.
and shut the scales off so I will have to go a few miles out of town now.
white-rhino
Older than dirt
Yep. JohnnyJ and I went through this. His buggy is 900# lighter than mine. Why?
My 42's vs his 39's are 50# heavier per corner. 200#
My 203/305 is heavier than his Atlas. 170#
I have a nice fabricated storage rack he doesn't have. 40# ???
Things that add extra weight but don't have specific weights:
I am 114" wb, he is 108". (extra frame and tubing)
I have a fabricated center console / tunnel, he doesn't.
I have full skins, he doesn't.
I have 16" coilover shocks, he has 14" air shocks.
I have a steel hood & cowl, he has a fiberglass hood.
I have a steel tailgate, he doesn't have a tailgate.
I have a super beefy front axle truss setup, his is lighter.
I don't know if my 8274 is heavier than his Superwinch.
It's pretty easy to look at them side by side and see an extra 5-600# in mine. It adds up quick.
ridered3
Low Talent Wheelin
That’s one way to weigh your rig!4490lbs ready to wheel without me in the driver seat. Had to do corner weights at work with 4 scaled lifts since my race scale pads only go to 1k lbs.
ridered3
Low Talent Wheelin
Totally agree there. As easy as it is to get a weight for something (corner scales, CAT scales, scales at a gravel pit, or Snowy 4 forklifts), I don’t understand why people don’t weigh their junk.
Instead they estimate/guess the weights or weigh it the wrong way. Full body rig or tons and 40’s “Well I weighed but with two drops of gas, no tires, no tools, missing both driveshafts, etc but I bet it weighs 3,500 pounds”.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Every location is different. Where I used to live, the closest scale was ~30 Mins away. All were at rock yards, scrap yards, the dump, ect. So I never felt like bothering an operating business just out of curiosity.
There was one farm that had one you could just pull up to and peek in the window, but it was almost an hour away.
Now where I live there is a DOT scale 3 miles away that stays on 24/7. So I pull in there all the time when they're closed just to see
I don't have a buggy, but I can post some accurate weights of my 3 different offroad rigs.
Yup, that's why with my current build I was cutting weight on everything I could. I can always make it heavier later.
Aluminum diff VS cast iron 20# each
UTV tires VS LT's 15# ea
Machine rims -2.5# ea
Wilwood brakes -12# corner
Mill pockets in the LT230 gears -2.5#
It all adds up. I should have it on its wheels in a week or so to see if it was worth it.
ridered3
Low Talent Wheelin
Very true on locations. My closest scale is 20+ minutes away at the farm supply store so two birds one stone to weigh stuff when I’m there getting things anyway.Every location is different. Where I used to live, the closest scale was ~30 Mins away. All were at rock yards, scrap yards, the dump, ect. So I never felt like bothering an operating business just out of curiosity.
There was one farm that had one you could just pull up to and peek in the window, but it was almost an hour away.
Now where I live there is a DOT scale 3 miles away that stays on 24/7. So I pull in there all the time when they're closed just to see
I don't have a buggy, but I can post some accurate weights of my 3 different offroad rigs.
Where is the fawkin build thread??? You have been hinting about this thing forever and we get nothing..... WTF kind of shit is that?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I think just being wieght conscious at all is a big step. You see guys that aren't at all, and just use 1/4 plate everywhere, thicker this and that, extra bar here, ect and end up with giant pigs.
I'm not going to every length possible personally. But I'll cut wieght where I can. Using 090 or 065 on bracing bars helps. Lots of tabs can be 1/8 or 3/16. Speed holes, ect. I also don't care too much about unsprung wieght on a crawler. Cracks me up a bit when guys go all out on light axles, just to fill the tires with water
I'm not going to every length possible personally. But I'll cut wieght where I can. Using 090 or 065 on bracing bars helps. Lots of tabs can be 1/8 or 3/16. Speed holes, ect. I also don't care too much about unsprung wieght on a crawler. Cracks me up a bit when guys go all out on light axles, just to fill the tires with water
I think just being wieght conscious at all is a big step. You see guys that aren't at all, and just use 1/4 plate everywhere, thicker this and that, extra bar here, ect and end up with giant pigs.
I'm not going to every length possible personally. But I'll cut wieght where I can. Using 090 or 065 on bracing bars helps. Lots of tabs can be 1/8 or 3/16. Speed holes, ect. I also don't care too much about unsprung wieght on a crawler. Cracks me up a bit when guys go all out on light axles, just to fill the tires with water
Weight, or rather the lack of, plays a huge factor in performance. My SxS was a good example of this. I kicked ass racing against guys with built motors with a stock motor because my car weighed a lot less. While they were worried about squeezing every oz of power out of their motors while having cages, bumpers and nerf bars made out of .120 tube and running heavy suspension components and wheels, I was cutting every possible thing I could think of off my car and installing the lightest parts i could find/build all in an effort to make it quicker by making it lighter. It totally worked and my car also handled better than their high HP fat pigs.
KungFooMASTA
El Stupido
Yeah where is this is? Land Rover forum?Where is the fawkin build thread??? You have been hinting about this thing forever and we get nothing..... WTF kind of shit is that?
Sterlingfire
ignant
Well it's all about lbs per hp when racing high speed. Power to weight ratio was how i had my short course truck built in my head... of course that never came to fruition because i started my business instead(probably for the bestWeight, or rather the lack of, plays a huge factor in performance. My SxS was a good example of this. I kicked ass racing against guys with built motors with a stock motor because my car weighed a lot less. While they were worried about squeezing every oz of power out of their motors while having cages, bumpers and nerf bars made out of .120 tube and running heavy suspension components and wheels, I was cutting every possible thing I could think of off my car and installing the lightest parts i could find/build all in an effort to make it quicker by making it lighter. It totally worked and my car also handled better than their high HP fat pigs.
) I didn't have a budget for big power, but cutting weight would level the playing field and be basically free. I went so far as to scout the competition at the races. Lots of added weight with big power engines were the common denominator.