[obscure JKO reference]
You should'a used purple wire nuts
[/obscure JKO reference]
You should'a used purple wire nuts
[/obscure JKO reference]
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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #2,163
Final product.
So moving on to the GM 3 wire AC pressure sensor.........
****
I have to add 3 pins to the X-1 connector. Cause those are open holes right now.
So much for not wanting to **** with the connector.
Just maybe I should have looked at everything before diving in.
Let me guess.....this is going to take special terminals and a $500 crimper?
So moving on to the GM 3 wire AC pressure sensor.........
****
I have to add 3 pins to the X-1 connector. Cause those are open holes right now.
So much for not wanting to **** with the connector.
Just maybe I should have looked at everything before diving in.
Let me guess.....this is going to take special terminals and a $500 crimper?
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #2,164
Terminals ordered. Have a crimper.
Will measure and cut some wire long so I can marry them into the harness with tails at each end. Also still have to run the last wire from the ac module to the output of the binary switch for the whole bag of **** to work.
Will measure and cut some wire long so I can marry them into the harness with tails at each end. Also still have to run the last wire from the ac module to the output of the binary switch for the whole bag of **** to work.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #2,166
Added to my scribble drawing of the wiring for the AC and cooling fans.
All I gotta do........................
Done. Wired just like the scribble.
This should give me factory like PWM control of the fans for the engine temp and ac. There's also the over ride switch for............I have no idea anymore.
But it's there if I need it.I did add a 2wire deutsch connector in the signal (white) and override (yellow) wires. Both of those wires become part of the chassis harness when they pass through the firewall, but start out at a dash switch (yellow) and the engine harness (white). Figured it might avoid a bunch of cussing down the road.
I actually think the dash/switches is the next item on the to do list. I'm also 90% sure it's the last thing on the list.
EDIT:
Tunes, I still have the tunes to wire up.
Last edited:
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #2,167
Got the dash switches pretty much done. I did everything with about a 1ft tail on it.
I have a couple Deutsch HDP20 series connectors that will join the switch tails to the harness wires. One connector holds 31 wires and takes size 16 contacts and the other hold 8 wires and takes size 12 contacts. That covers everything with a few empty spots.
This actually makes life so much easier to get everything connected together. I'll be able to simply crimp the contacts to the wires from the harness and stick them in the connector with out even having the dash in the mix.
I hadn't seen these connectors before. They're just some kind of fancy plastic. I was getting the shakes looking at the alum mil spec **** that has large numbers of wires. That **** is expensive. These HDP ones are ~ $40 for the 8 wire and ~ $70 for the 31 wire, that's for both halves. I already had pins.
I had to defer to AI for help on how to wire the turn signals from a toggle switch along with the emergency flashers from a toggle too. Apparently, it's pretty easy to do it and have the turn signals get back fed through the emergency flasher wiring all 4 lights flash. Aaaand, that's exactly how I would have done it.
So, on the dash I'll have....
Head lights
Wiper/washer
Key switch
Push to start
Turn signals
Cruise controls ( this has a DT connector)
Winch controls
Emergency flashers
Horn
Cooling fans override
Accu-Sump on/off
2- power ports....these are on the pass side half of the dash
Non-electrical **** on the dash.....
F&R locker air switches
Fire syst pull handle
I have a couple Deutsch HDP20 series connectors that will join the switch tails to the harness wires. One connector holds 31 wires and takes size 16 contacts and the other hold 8 wires and takes size 12 contacts. That covers everything with a few empty spots.
This actually makes life so much easier to get everything connected together. I'll be able to simply crimp the contacts to the wires from the harness and stick them in the connector with out even having the dash in the mix.
I hadn't seen these connectors before. They're just some kind of fancy plastic. I was getting the shakes looking at the alum mil spec **** that has large numbers of wires. That **** is expensive. These HDP ones are ~ $40 for the 8 wire and ~ $70 for the 31 wire, that's for both halves. I already had pins.
I had to defer to AI for help on how to wire the turn signals from a toggle switch along with the emergency flashers from a toggle too. Apparently, it's pretty easy to do it and have the turn signals get back fed through the emergency flasher wiring all 4 lights flash. Aaaand, that's exactly how I would have done it.
So, on the dash I'll have....
Head lights
Wiper/washer
Key switch
Push to start
Turn signals
Cruise controls ( this has a DT connector)
Winch controls
Emergency flashers
Horn
Cooling fans override
Accu-Sump on/off
2- power ports....these are on the pass side half of the dash
Non-electrical **** on the dash.....
F&R locker air switches
Fire syst pull handle
WaterH
Well-known member
The Vulcan has those aluminum mil spec cannon plugs all over the place. When they have been sitting for thirty years, they are ridiculous to unscrew. (If you can) I think plastic is better.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #2,169
Realized I had forgot about one more thing that needed to go in/onto the dash. The little Rostra cruise control controller push button thingy.
So that's another 7 wires that need to run through the big round Deutsch connectors. Went ahead and started wiring all that up. For cruise control, I'm using a Dakots Digital DBW Cruise box. Going to feed it the vss signal from inside the trans, through the ECU and out through the speedo wire in the harness. Don't need to use that wire for a actual speedo cause the AEM dash has GPS and I plan to use that for the speedometer.
Also started the wiring on the steering wheel paddles for tap shift. The engine harness came with a wire already going to pin 7 on the trans connector, which is the tap up/down signal. I just need to solder in a couple of resistors into the wires that come from the RF receiver and splice into the pin 7 wire.
So that's another 7 wires that need to run through the big round Deutsch connectors.
Went ahead and started wiring all that up. For cruise control, I'm using a Dakots Digital DBW Cruise box. Going to feed it the vss signal from inside the trans, through the ECU and out through the speedo wire in the harness. Don't need to use that wire for a actual speedo cause the AEM dash has GPS and I plan to use that for the speedometer.Also started the wiring on the steering wheel paddles for tap shift. The engine harness came with a wire already going to pin 7 on the trans connector, which is the tap up/down signal. I just need to solder in a couple of resistors into the wires that come from the RF receiver and splice into the pin 7 wire.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #2,170
I have to solder 2 resistors into two wires for the paddle shifter to tie into the tap shift wire going to the trans.
Never ****ed with resistors before. I'm not even sure what that are or what they do.
How close to the resistor can I solder the wires? Can the heat from soldering destroy a resistor?
Am I just over thinking it and sould just solder the ****ers?
Never ****ed with resistors before. I'm not even sure what that are or what they do.
How close to the resistor can I solder the wires? Can the heat from soldering destroy a resistor?
Am I just over thinking it and sould just solder the ****ers?
Ranch Hand
Well-known member
Clamp a couple of heat sinks on them before soldering.
Ranch Hand
Well-known member
I'm no expert but the idea is to move the heat away from the wire so it will air cool. These are popular.
Soldering Heat Sink Clip Tool: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement
Soldering Heat Sink Clip Tool: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement
www.amazon.com
GC ELECTRONICS 9077-1 HEAT SINK CLAMP (1 piece) - Amazon.com
GC ELECTRONICS 9077-1 HEAT SINK CLAMP (1 piece) - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
This one has a large thermal mass away from the wire.
And it looks like soldering a heat sink to an ordinary alligator clip would do the same thing.
The resistor's leads should solder easy enough w/o a ton of heat; you should be fine just going for it. Check resistance w/ an ohmmeter after soldering - if it's close to nominal resistance, you're good to go. Never hurts to check it before soldering too, in case the resistor is defective (low probability but non-zero, and super-easy to check).
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #2,176
Ok, next issue.
Everything in the dash panel goes in from the back side..... So running all the wires together into one big connection is fine.
Except for the cruise control thingy. It goes in from the front. And is held in place with the christmas tree tabs.
It mount with 3 little holes, 2 for the tabs and 1 for the wires to go in through.
The plan is to run the wires through the big connector, so I can remove the dash.
Problem is, I'll never be able to simply remove the cruise switch if it ****s the bed, I still need to paint the dash, it will hold everything else hostage if I needed to strip the dash................it's just bad all the way around.
So I was thinking about just installing ring terminals on the wires and run them to this.....
And then wires from that gizmo through he big connector and to where they go in the cruise control box which is behind the switch panel in the center console.
It feels kind of ghetto, but I'm at a loss for a better idea that will allow the wires to exit through the little hole and still have them going through the one big connector.
Anyone have a better idea? I'm all ears.
Everything in the dash panel goes in from the back side..... So running all the wires together into one big connection is fine.
Except for the cruise control thingy. It goes in from the front. And is held in place with the christmas tree tabs.
It mount with 3 little holes, 2 for the tabs and 1 for the wires to go in through.
The plan is to run the wires through the big connector, so I can remove the dash.
Problem is, I'll never be able to simply remove the cruise switch if it ****s the bed, I still need to paint the dash, it will hold everything else hostage if I needed to strip the dash................it's just bad all the way around.
So I was thinking about just installing ring terminals on the wires and run them to this.....
And then wires from that gizmo through he big connector and to where they go in the cruise control box which is behind the switch panel in the center console.
It feels kind of ghetto, but I'm at a loss for a better idea that will allow the wires to exit through the little hole and still have them going through the one big connector.
Anyone have a better idea? I'm all ears.
WaterH
Well-known member
Doesn’t feel ghetto to me. I like those kind of bus bar things.
Treefrog
Book Wheeler
Would it be possible to use a slot for the wire holes that two 4x1 connectors could fit through one at a time?
Maybe add a plug at the end of a pigtail behind the dash, so you can pull the whole dash quickly and easily, and just de-pin the connector when you need to remove the CC gizmo (once to paint the dash, and once if the controller ever fails).
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #2,180
I don't hate it. It would definitely solve my issue and is hidden on the back side of the dash.
I would really like to do it that way. Just couldn't think of any type of plug that would fit. Only thing I could think of that would work would be those single wire bullet connectors and thought that would be fully ghetto. I'll revisit it tomorrow, looking at just how big I can make that center hole.
Was trying to eliminate the de-pin/re-pin part of it. Realistically, I could just wait till I paint the dash and then wire it up. But I know if I did that, the switch would fail in the first week. If I set it up for easy replacement, that switch will last forever.
Compromise: wait till you paint the dash, install it "permanently", and cut in a connector
Maybe having a good contingency plan will be enough to keep the magic smoke from going walkabout
Treefrog
Book Wheeler
This seems to be the thinnest sealed 4 pin I can find. Unsealed can get much smaller.
RunningProblem
Neurologically Spicy
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2020
- Member Number
- 2860
- Messages
- 3,146
The wiring from the cruise control doesn't sound ghetto. It sounds like planning ahead. the only other thing I could think of would be make/female spade terminals inline so you unplug the cruise control unit instead of unscrewing the terminals.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #2,184
Ended up going with my original thought on the Cruise switch wires. Just seemed to be the simplest solution. There wasn't enough room to make the center hole big enough to to fit any kind of plug through.
All the wires are now run to the big plugs (except the wiper/washer switch). Small plug has the wires for the key switch and headlights and uses size 12 pins. All the other wires go through the other plug that uses size 16 pins.
I made a little plastic cover to go over the terminals. It shouldn't need it, but the AC ducting might flop around beck there so what the hell.
The cover came from hacking a different cover up. Cut the flat center out of it and did a little dance with the heat gun.
I did do the wiper/washer wires with there own connector because those wires are the only ones that head off to the driver side.
All the wires are now run to the big plugs (except the wiper/washer switch). Small plug has the wires for the key switch and headlights and uses size 12 pins. All the other wires go through the other plug that uses size 16 pins.
I made a little plastic cover to go over the terminals. It shouldn't need it, but the AC ducting might flop around beck there so what the hell.
The cover came from hacking a different cover up. Cut the flat center out of it and did a little dance with the heat gun.
I did do the wiper/washer wires with there own connector because those wires are the only ones that head off to the driver side.
I did a write up to tell you how to get there on mine with the 6L80. Took me a lot more resistors to get there than I originally thought. You'll have toeasure the ohms of resistance in parallel and series for the correct values to trigger the input signals correctly. Don't remember which page of my build it is though.
No, you put it in drive and shift it to the left and it makes an electrical contact/pushes a microswitch. The resistance change puts it in tap shift, the detent on the trans doesn't change.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #2,189
Ok. Mine is getting setup for a detent change (click down to 3 from 4 , 4 being drive = normal full auto)
That will put it in sport mode and it will be looking for the tap signal.
My research has came up about 50/50 on whether or not I'll have to tap once to wake it up or if it will shift on the first tap.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
- Thread starter
- #2,190
Still messy a **** but everything on, in and behind the dash is wired up.
All the switches on the dash.
DBW Cruise control.
Paddle shifter
The CJ wiper motor
AEM dash
AEM can expansion box
About 1000 more zipties and it'll be ready to pull and loom.
Everything is done in the rear, all lights wired with DT connectors.
Still have to add the DT connectors on the interior LED lights on the cage. Have to clean out the tub before I can stomp around inside.
I didn't ground anything to the dash itself, so between that and a few other things needing to be grounded, I have a total of 9 ground wires needing a home. I had started out with a 1/4" stud I was going to weld to the steering column mount which is welded to the cage........but the number of ground wires I have now seems a bit much for one stud. I may just add another stud.
Which leads me to a question....
My cage is part of the tub. It's welded to it just about everywhere.
So I assume I can just consider the two as one structure ?
I have a ground cable that runs from the tub to the block. There is also one that runs from the frame to the block. So I believe I'm covered.
All the switches on the dash.
DBW Cruise control.
Paddle shifter
The CJ wiper motor
AEM dash
AEM can expansion box
About 1000 more zipties and it'll be ready to pull and loom.
Everything is done in the rear, all lights wired with DT connectors.
Still have to add the DT connectors on the interior LED lights on the cage. Have to clean out the tub before I can stomp around inside.
I didn't ground anything to the dash itself, so between that and a few other things needing to be grounded, I have a total of 9 ground wires needing a home. I had started out with a 1/4" stud I was going to weld to the steering column mount which is welded to the cage........but the number of ground wires I have now seems a bit much for one stud. I may just add another stud.
Which leads me to a question....
My cage is part of the tub. It's welded to it just about everywhere.
So I assume I can just consider the two as one structure ?
I have a ground cable that runs from the tub to the block. There is also one that runs from the frame to the block. So I believe I'm covered.
