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The Boozecruiser (2007 Jeep JK 2dr) - now Ultra4 4500 Race Build

tribal4krawler

DKA Motorsports
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Member Number
1745
Messages
485
Figured I'd do a little build thread for our 2007 JK that I recently bought to serve as our weekend warrior/prerunner. My buddy did a great job building the Jeep over the past 10 years he owned it, and wheeled it a ton all over the NorthEast. Luckily, there's still very little rust that I've found so we shouldn't have any issues with that. I've named it the Boozecruiser - not because we enjoy drinking and driving, but because we've always called recreational wheeling that doesn't take a ton of mods or technique booze cruises where we just focus on hanging out with each other and family while doing the camping thing and some easy trails. Anyway, it's currently got Rubicon Axles that have been trussed/gusseted/sleeved with 5.38 gears/rubi lockers, RCV's front and Carbon Chromos rear, PSC bigbore steering box and Hydro Assist kit, Rubicon 4:1 tcase, Adams Driveshafts, Dirtylife Beadlocks, 37" Cooper STT Pros, 3.5" RockKrawler Midarm Xfactor lift with 10" RK coilovers in the front. Underneath is fully skidplated. It's also got a Poison Spyder trail cage and a few different top/door options. Brian followed us around a few times back when I had my buggy on 42s and was always impressed with how the JK worked - but his wheelbase at still stock 95" reared its ugly head several times getting real tippy on stuff that the rest of us at 103" or longer didn't struggle with. My immediate goal, outside of some cleaning/repainting, is to add a rockhard rear passenger overhead bar and harness bar (we have kiddos we bring with us wheeling), and then do either a 6" or 8" stretch in the rear as well as probably a 2" stretch forward to get out to 103-105" wheelbase.


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Here's how it looked on the first day I got it. Brian kept his PRP suspension seats and winch, which was fine as I had some Corbeau FX1 seats left over from one of my old U4 racecars. I also gave the good folks at Warn Industries a ring to get a Warn Zeon 10S Platinum like we have on the race truck, but unfortunately they're backordered until October of next year. Decided to go with a Warn VR12S instead.
 
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Found a rockhard rear bar kit on FB marketplace for cheap, so i went ahead and threw it on. The Corbeaus were very simple to adapt to the stock seat sliders. I didn't like how the wires for the lockers ran up the driver Apillar so I re-routed all of those switches to the dash instead and threw a coat of paint on the whole thing. One interesting thing is that finding directions for the rockhard rear bar is literally impossible, so it took some trial and error to figure out where exactly that bar should clamp on. i ended up with basically 3" above the top seatbelt posts to the bottom of the clamp seemed to be just about perfect. Also de-stickered the rig, and took off the tube fenders as i've never liked how JK's looked with the wide tube fenders.
 
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The winch and Factor55 Ultrahook came in really fast, so I had to throw them on to see how they looked. I HATE the front bumper - I'm going to do some kind of a frame chop front winch bumper that's super low profile/racy looking. I've talked with Dave G at Brave Motorsports about having him build me one of their custom front bumpers, so hopefully that'll pan out. My buddy Ken with Patriot Performance and Offroad in the Woodlands also had a set of mallcrawler Halos from his Rubicon that he gave me for free - I don't have the halos hooked up but the lights are SO much better than the stock Halogen junk.
 
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Took a cruise out to College Station to pick up my 9 year old for the Xmas break, and he loved being back in a topless jeep again. Got about 15 MPG on the highway on the 150ish mile round trip. The stock 3.8 is definitely gutless, but I knew that going in, and don't really care. It's not a daily driver for us.

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The stock manifolds are cracked and there's a very annoying exhaust leak, so I ordered some Ebay longtube headers. They actually look pretty decent, but hopefully it won't be ridiculously loud (it's got an MBRP exhaust on it) I'll probably install that this weekend after New Years.
 
Good grief. These longtubes sucked to install. I’m just about done now tho - just need to extend the o2 sensor wires which I’ll knock out tomorrow afternoon. Reused the stock heat shields as I heard the jk spark plug wires are prone to melting from the heat from headers. I’ll probably also put some spark plug heat wraps on for good measure. Interestingly BOTH stock manifolds were cracked completely through, I’m thinking it’ll run a lot better with these longtubes.
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Looks good, Im interested in how those headers do. I need to put a set on mine. Im a little worried though as I have a Rock Krawler long arms and the frame side mounts require exhaust modifications.
 
Looks good, Im interested in how those headers do. I need to put a set on mine. Im a little worried though as I have a Rock Krawler long arms and the frame side mounts require exhaust modifications.
You know, I actually was looking at that and I can definitely see issues running a long arm with longtube headers. I’d have to compare and see how much further back the long arm mounts are but as is the eBay headers didn’t take any modification at all to fit. It does sound quite a bit louder to me (no cats and pypes muffler).
 
I have the original Ripp longtubes complete kit I picked up brand new for $600 from an angry divorcee that wanted to piss off her ex-husband.:smokin: After that I picked up a locked Ripp Diablo predator tuner for free and paid the unlock fee.:lmao: I would never have paid the full price for this stuff but is does work well but is very raspy. It has been difficult to quiet down the exhaust even with the included 2.5" hushpower resonator. I think the SpinTrapp muffler needs to be replaced with something quieter but I really like the durable construction. When I don't use the Ripp tune I can get a CEL after a couple of days. It is a bitch to squeeze a traditional exhaust on a 2-door. I had to modify some of the pipes to get a muffler before the rear axle. I also suffer bad exhaust fumes without a tailgate window because the rear tailpipe is tucked up high and out of the under-car flow of air.
 
Sounds decent as long as you don’t get past half throttle. Beyond that it’s full on ricer. Oh well. Not too worried about it. Pretty happy so far.

 
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Starting final prep for KOH - been organizing all of my spares, my King 2.5” 12” coilovers come in today. I’ve been debating if I want to reinstall the ORO Swayloc front sway bar, the previous owner felt like it might have been limiting some flex so he pulled it off. I think I might reinstall it but I haven’t decided yet. It’s got a raptor (antirock knockoff) rear sway bar on it. Also tried a couple things to get my lowrance to come back to life but it’s dead. 2nd Lowrance that we’ve killed in 2 years. Pitiful.

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So after getting the kings and doing some measurements, they’re about 3.5” longer in the body than my 10” RKs. Right now the 10s are set up for 5” up (but bumped to 4.5”) so if I just bolted the Kings I’d only have about an inch and a half of uptravel 😂😂 I’ve been looking at the upper and lower mounts trying to decide what I’m going to move. I can move the upper coilover tower up about 3” without interfering with the inner fender (mainly just passenger side where the fuseblock sits) which would also allow me to redo the welds which are pretty ugly. I’d add some gussets and also 3” of steel below fishplated to the existing towers. Moving the lowers isn’t really a great option as it’d be lower than the control arm and also pretty funky. Doable tho. The other option I’ve considered is canting the coilover towers rearward like a trentfab car and then I could get another inch more of uptravel (shooting for a max of probably 5.5” up) what do you guys think?

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I’m also going to work on figuring out how to add my rear 2” bumps off the Comanche (going to 4” bumps on that) to the JK. I’m thinking I’ll weld one side of the can to the coilover tower, but I’m not 100% sure what I’ll do on the driver side as the steering box bolts are basically right there. I’m 99% sure the janky bumps that are on the JK will either cause damage or break off in the whoops at Hammers. Lol
 
So after getting the kings and doing some measurements, they’re about 3.5” longer in the body than my 10” RKs. Right now the 10s are set up for 5” up (but bumped to 4.5”) so if I just bolted the Kings I’d only have about an inch and a half of uptravel 😂😂 I’ve been looking at the upper and lower mounts trying to decide what I’m going to move. I can move the upper coilover tower up about 3” without interfering with the inner fender (mainly just passenger side where the fuseblock sits) which would also allow me to redo the welds which are pretty ugly. I’d add some gussets and also 3” of steel below fishplated to the existing towers. Moving the lowers isn’t really a great option as it’d be lower than the control arm and also pretty funky. Doable tho. The other option I’ve considered is canting the coilover towers rearward like a trentfab car and then I could get another inch more of uptravel (shooting for a max of probably 5.5” up) what do you guys think?
Raising the uppers and sweeping them back seems like the right move. Not a quick job, but probably the right way to go.

Lots of folks worry about having the C/O 90* to the link at full compression to get a progressive spring rate and damping, but I don't subscribe to that as a top design constraint - max up travel for the suspension system, fitting in the car around other things (brake master cylinder), not contacting anything (frame, tires, knuckles at full lock full stuff) are all higher considerations.

Slight angle back (in line with the ball joints) helps the tire rotate around the shock rather than into it too.

Then get the right springs for the shocks wherever they line up (might need to be slightly higher rate than a vertical C/O, but who cares) and then valve to suit.
 
So I did a ton of measuring, head scratching, more measuring, and finally decided that with the current link setup, 12” Kings are overkill. I could technically get them to fit, but wouldn’t gain any actual useable travel over the 10s.
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The amount of work vs what id get out of it just isn’t there, so I’ve decided to hold off for the time being - as I do still want to stretch the front forward and doing all this work twice is nuts. I did start on freshening up/cleaning the RK 10s.

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In the picture for some crazy reason the clean RK looks way longer than the dirty one but it’s the exact same size. 😂😂
So there’s that. Kinda disappointing coming to this conclusion, but I’ll throw these kings up in storage and once I go long arm/stretch they’ll definitely be getting used.
 
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Fun little project reusing the air bumps off the back of the Manche. If I were racing I’d probably add more support but I think for boozecruisin duties they’ll be fine.
 
What an epic trip. Body panels are definitely crunchier now but we did sledge, jackhammer, outer limits, spooners, Emerson and short bus and resolution without winching once. The Boozecruiser is pretty legit!
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Some more picture dumpin' from Hammers. I've been dailyin' it a fair amount since we got back and all good.. Definitely get some weird looks and stares sometimes with the body damage on a "nice jeep" lol. :laughing::homer:
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Driver... Driver... you know, your left... or whatever...

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Reviving this build - I have recently decided to let the Comanche out to greener pastures - my good friend is picking the bare chassis up tomorrow and he's going to slowly build it up as a recreational wheeler again. He's the perfect guy for the job, has a bunch of cherokees and comanches already and even a 4 door comanche he built (that actually has the 4.7 stroker from the race comanche in it now)

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Once the Manche is out of the garage, i'll also be moving my Turbo S into my enclosed trailer while it waits for engine rebuild, and then i'll have a full 2 car garage available for the JK teardown. I'll be stripping out the entire Jeep and selling off the rubicon axles (should be able to get some decent money as they're sleeved/trussed with RCVs, hydro assist, chromos rear, 5.13s, etc.) and also selling all of the drivetrain as well. Once i have the JK down to a bare chassis i'll be backhalfing the back and pretty much just cutting the rear section of the body off behind the doors as well. I'll be using these built 1 tons from the manche with some changes of course to accommodate the bypasses and coilovers. The JK already has the bigbore PSC steering box, big reservoir, etc so that'll be staying in the car. My goal is to make the racecar as LIGHT as possible, using 2" .120 wall only where absolutely necessary and 1 3/4" .120 everywhere else. I'm sure it'll still end up being a heavy pig but we'll do our best. Should be a fun build - I'll be posting videos on my instagram and Youtube channel as I go. The goal is to remain "street legal" but it'll still be a full fledged racecar. I would love to have this thing done by KOH 24 for some shakedown and prerunning but I'm not going to hold my breath.
 
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Step one completed. Comanche chassis is out of the garage and on to its new owners home. Now I will start a massive reorganization project that will probably take me all week purging all the useless old crap I have and getting the garage situated for the new build.
 
Yeah, you can start by purging those useless old crap axles and 205 into my garage :flipoff2:
 
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So when I bought this JK I was under the impression it had a PSC big bore box in it but come to find out the previous owner bought the box before they came out with the big bore. It’s always steered great as it is, but it got me to thinking about the steering kit I ordered for the Comanche and never installed. It is definitely not a bolt in kit but is a lot smaller than the JK system and could potentially allow me to install the box way forward and allow for substantially more uptravel than what is possible with a normal JK setup. I’m going to continue researching a little bit but what I’m tentatively thinking is cutting the front frame after the motor mounts and doing box tube to put the box exactly where I want while maintaining as good of clearances as possible. The radiator is going to be mounted in the back so no worries about that.
 
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Ruslan is giving me the jaz 34 gal jeepspeed tank out of his 1450 (he went Harmon 55g) so that solves that issue. Just gotta figure out how to get it from Cali to me.
 
Some good news: my buddy Tyler is going to let me use his shop for some of the JK build (he’s also part of Team187 so I’ll be able to tear down and build in the AC. Should be sweet. Hoping to start moving stuff over next Tuesday. In the meantime I’ve been trying to research boatsides as I’ve ALWAYS wanted to do this to a 2dr jk. However I really haven’t seen many people do it other than this guy I saw on IG
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And it was just that one pic. Anybody happen to know him or moar pics? Should give me more clearance in the rocks and of course look rad too.

This is kind of where I’m guesstimating I’ll cut.

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I’d completely forgotten how much it sucks cutting brackets off axles. One side fully done and ready for new truss/links/shock mounts
 
Are you going to use the JRX4 steering setup that uses a full hydro ram for assist? I wouldn't even bother using the PSC stuff you have on hand, it's proven over and over to be a weak link when it comes to U4 style racing.
 
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