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Blue Jeep build

Getting medication to do what the shit is supposed to can be a real bear. Good on you for powering through. I stopped smoking the green stuff (legal here, started for pain, stopped because of marital complaint department/lazy). After cessation of that helper, I find out it was masking a bad drug interaction (both prescription). It took two weeks straight of being fixated on equalizing my intracranial pressure with the atmospheric before I realized what the hell was wrong.

Derail aside, I really dig that you pushed through the bullshit and got that air box done. Built is always cooler than bought.

Yes, it can certainly be a pain to get right. The first med I was ever prescribed for this did absolutely nothing. I went up to the max dose and it never helped. I've been taking Cymbalta for the last 15 years and it's worked great, until a few months ago. Or maybe it's still working, but there's enough BS going on in my life right now to overcome it. Who knows. It's been on thing after another here at the house. Gas leak in the main coming to the house, had to get a whole new line ran. One month later.....tree through the shop. Add in life's normal crap and it being winter and I guess that might have been the perfect storm to get me to pop.:flipoff2:

My doc added 5mg of Buspirone to the mix and it seems to have got me at least 50% of the way back to normal. Doc said to call him on Monday to let him know how it worked. Like you, even he says it kind of a guessing game to narrow down what works and what doesn't. Hopefully if we bump up the new stuff a little I be good. Or doc may want to go with something else......guess I'll find out on Monday.

No way I wasn't going to finish the air box. I think it's a great idea and it was one of the things I always wanted incorporated into the build.
When it comes right down to work involved, running 45" tire on less than 3" lift over a stock JKU and having 45* steering and a flat belly is where the real work went.:flipoff2:


I'm happy about this ride height. Stock JKU on the stock 30" tires is 72.4"

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I'm happy about this ride height. Stock JKU on the stock 30" tires is 72.4"

Low is good sir. :smokin:

On my 40's, top of my light bar's 'bout 76". (Where you measured yours, mine looks to be 74.5".)

76" tall is convenient 'cause that's same as me.

So I know if'n I can walk into a garage ... I can drive my jeep into it too. :grinpimp:
 
I think I posted a while back that the Jeep was just sitting bottomed out on 3 of the 4 bump stops. Dvr side front LCA was kissing the trans pan.

Guess all my climbing around on the front end has fixed that issue for me. All 4 bump pads are now touching.:smokin: Gotta love problems that fix themselves .


Started working on a fix for the x-member I can't use anymore.

Welded a piece of 3/16" flat bar to the firewall so I could run a tube from there to the shock mount.

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Naturally my hope to just cope the existing part of the x-member to the new tube was crushed.

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So I ended up tying them together with gussets that incorporated the coil mounts in to it. It was either there or mount mount them off the air box which I didn't really like that idea.

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The plan is to box in the two two sides together. Just going to leave those little gussets in there and cover them.

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And I still need to mount the catch cam I had forgotten all about. Going to tie both valve covers together and T that to the can, then 3 sides and down.

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And after reading the fire stories running the fancy fuel rails, I dug my factory rails out. Gonna need to weld a AN fitting to it.
 
I think I posted a while back that the Jeep was just sitting bottomed out on 3 of the 4 bump stops. Dvr side front LCA was kissing the trans pan.

Guess all my climbing around on the front end has fixed that issue for me. All 4 bump pads are now touching.:smokin: Gotta love problems that fix themselves .

Did you adjust a track bar or something? I guess a motor mount could have settled.
 
Did you adjust a track bar or something? I guess a motor mount could have settled.

No, don't have track bars. Front lower link on the driver side was contacting the trans pan and holding up that corner of the rig. Now that I've been climbing around on the front of it, my fat ass helped push the rig down onto the stops. We're only talking about a 1/8" gap that there was at the bump stop. So at the end of the 50" link where the contact at the pan was, it only had to dent the pan in a fraction of that 1/8".

I still have to pull the trans pan to yank the TCM for tuning. At least now I know a couple wacks with a hammer to the pan will buy me all the room I need.
 
And after reading the fire stories running the fancy fuel rails, I dug my factory rails out.

What are these fire stories with the billet rails? I've used a ton of o ring fittings and aluminum manifolds in the hydraulics world and they rarely leak when installed properly.
 
What are these fire stories with the billet rails? I've used a ton of o ring fittings and aluminum manifolds in the hydraulics world and they rarely leak when installed properly.

From this thread: Starts on post #69



That got me to search the issue of the alum fuel rails on LS's leaking. Was surprised to find no shortage of incidents.
The stock fuel rails have the clips that keep the injectors in the rails. The extruded alum ones don't have the clips so the injectors are simply captured between the manifold and the rail.

Just kind of struck me that while it may be fine on a road going vehicle, an off road rig getting banged around might not be the best place for the alum rails.

While they look cool (and that's really why I bought them) I don't need more fuel than the stock rail provides.
 
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Interesting

Yes.

What I found really interesting was on LSTech. There was someone talking about having leak issues. Then a person from the company that manufactures the rails (wasn't FAST, but same extruded type) chimed in and said "The injectors could only leak because of bad o-rings, due to the fact that there was 40lbs of pressure pushing down on the rails from the bolts that hold the rails to the manifold".

Ok, that sounds all fine and dandy, rails are sandwiching the injectors with 40lbs of pressure.

Buuuut, my LS3 (don't know about gen3's) runs at 58psi fuel pressure. Now I don't know the total sq/in surface area of 4 injectors is (which would be the size of the o-ring OD, including the injector) but I bet it's more than 1sq/in. That would lead me to believe that the fuel pressure will win the fight, or at least will be trying to win.

That said, I know there are 10's of thousands of folks running these rails without problems. People don't get on the internet to say "they work like they should". But we do have one member on here who was running 58psi fuel pressure and the rail pulled one of the threaded inserts out of the manifold and lit his rig on fire.

I know my luck, I don't need more fuel, so I'm just going to remove one possible failure point and run the stock rails. Hell, I'm happy just worrying about the big ol fuel cell in the back of the Jeep, I don't want to worry about being sandwiched between fires.:flipoff2:
 
I would agree with bebop on that one, I could see the insert begin to twist in the composite manifold from over torque and breaking the molded interface, which in turn let the pressure in the injectors push the injectors/rails up. I don't think it would be an issue in an aluminum manifold. Though I do find it odd they don't use a pin/clip to help retain them to the injectors. A lot of ver high dollar sand cars seem to run those fuel rails without issue. I may have to revisit that and take a closer look at the rails/manifold I was planning to run on mine.
 
Threaded inserts don't pull themselves apart like that.

Overtorquing of the bolts is probably the main cause.

I would agree with bebop on that one, I could see the insert begin to twist in the composite manifold from over torque and breaking the molded interface, which in turn let the pressure in the injectors push the injectors/rails up. I don't think it would be an issue in an aluminum manifold. Though I do find it odd they don't use a pin/clip to help retain them to the injectors. A lot of ver high dollar sand cars seem to run those fuel rails without issue. I may have to revisit that and take a closer look at the rails/manifold I was planning to run on mine.

It would have to twist first. Agreed.

But, you'd have to have a fucked up bolt or cross thread it right out of the gate.......or have bolted and unbolted it a few times......which happens a lot.

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All the inserts on my stock manifold sir slightly proud of the plastic. So the fuel rail is touching it before you even take a bolt to it.


Was just looking at the FAST rails I have. Where the little mounting brackets have the 90* bend in them is a fraction of the material that makes up the 90* bend on the stock rails.

Like 1Sinner said, if the manifold was aluminum there wouldn't be any issue.

I don't "need" them for the Jeep so I'm avoiding the issue completely. Maybe they'll find a home on the Camaro.
 
After forgetting about it again:lmao:I finally mounted the fucking catch can. Don't know what it was about that thing, if it was a child I would have starved it to death.

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Gonna need to weld some AN fittings to the valve covers for plumbing it up.
It's all going to be -8AN, mainly because I naturally forgot about it when I ordered all my hoses.:homer: But also because I bought enough -8 hose to run the fuel line from cell to engine. But I've decided to use ss tube to run down along the frame rail.
 
I used an adapter that twisted into the LS valve cover oil fill(I bought an extra set so that I had a set where each had the oil fill hole) and went to AN fittings. I'd be surprised if there's not an adapter for those valve covers, but if you only have one valve cover with the oil fill hole then yea you will have to tig in some adapters.
 
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I used an adapter that twisted into the LS valve cover oil fill(I bought an extra set so that I had a set wherriseeach had the oil fill hole) and went to AN fittings. I'd be surprised if there's not an adapter for those valve covers, but if you only have one valve cover with the oil fill hole then yea you will have to tig in some adapters.
Ya, the new covers only have the one fill hole. I'll need to weld adapters.
 
Been a busy week. Unfortunately, it sucked.

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That's Murray. Cool as hell and less than a year old.

Last weekend he seemed like he was sick, just wanted to lay around and wasn't really eating much. Next evening he's crying out in pain and throwing up. I take him to the emergency animal hospital at 2300. He has a temp of 105.5, blood work says white blood cell count is way up like he's fighting off something, so they pump him full of antibiotics.
Two days later they say his fever broke and he's holding down food, so I pick him up and bring him home.
Next day his fever is back and he wont eat, drink, sleep or move. Back to the hospital we go. Another two days later I have to pick him up in the morning because the emergency hospital is only open when the local vets are closed.

So I drive straight to the vet by my house, this guy is good. Vet runs every test possible, takes x-rays.

Murray comes up negative for everything. Then the vet drops the bomb. By process of elimination there is only one thing left that he could have.......PID. There is no test for it, there is no cure for it, and it's 100% fatal.

Murray's fever was down, so they sent him home and gave me steroids, antibiotics and something to encourage eating.

So there I am at home sitting with him knowing he's only going to get worse until he dies. Then he sat up and looked at me and I could see he knew he was dying. He deserved better than a bullet so an hour later we were back at the vet and they put him to sleep and then put him down.

What a raw fucking deal that little guy got. Not even a year old.

This was after he came home from his first trip to the hospital. Shaved leg from the IV.

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He will be missed.
 
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