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Blue Jeep build

That dip in the small jumper hose might give you some trouble. You might be able to replace it with a small straight piece. Lowering the hole in the inner fender well should do the trick.

You could also extend the filler with metal (replacing the stubby hose) and make a bulkhead type fitting into the tub. That's would also seal the hole nicely.
 
Simple'72CJ said:
Not really, I was just curious. There's a local place up here called ProSales that makes it convenient for straights. Its all industrial/food grade 304 and was WAY cheaper than anything I could find online. Im sure you could order from them, but may be worth looking into seeing if there's a comparable company closer to you or maybe a location near by.

As far as bend go, I was super impressed with Stainless Bro's. They've got an insane amount of tight radius options that are actually not even mandrel bent, but extruded so there's no distortion at all. Figure your clocking, butt to your straights, and you're ready to start tacking. Essentially no prep work necessary and all their stuff come pre ground/polished.

This is an exhaust I did for a guy at work with pretty much untouched elbows other than a couple odd ball ones to get around the trans pan into the collector.
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I can't look at pictures of your work without wanting to just burn my shop to the ground.:flipoff2: That looks awesome. So those were the Stainless Bros elbows?

Just checked out Stainless Bros. That looks like the ticket. Very nice.

Luckily for me, once the exhaust turns under the firewall/floor board, it's a straight shot back through the mufflers. It also means I can't run a X/H pipe, unless I want to run a really long 1" H pipe that snakes it's way over the trans. I just don't think there would be any benefit to it though.
 
Dan said:
That dip in the small jumper hose might give you some trouble. You might be able to replace it with a small straight piece. Lowering the hole in the inner fender well should do the trick.

You could also extend the filler with metal (replacing the stubby hose) and make a bulkhead type fitting into the tub. That's would also seal the hole nicely.
Click to expand...

That little jumper hose is a 45* piece that is actually raping around the cage tube behind it. Problem is I probably only really needed 42* so it ended up with that P-trap looking abortion.
 
Duratec showed up, so I moved back on the hood. I also got the reducer for it. That was the ticket for (me anyway) shooting it. No problems with it cooking off in the gun. 3 coats, let it cure over night and started sanding. Did 320 & 400 grit, then started wet sanding with 600.

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Looks good wet.


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Kowboy said:
Wish I had a dollar for ev'ry hour you got in that hood. :idea:

Sure is purdy though. :beer:
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So do I.:flipoff2:

All this work to end up with an ill fitting, weak, poorly made chunk of fiberglass. I kinda already had that in metal.:lmao:

As long as it doesn't fly off in chunks going down the road, I'll call it a win.
 
gt1guy said:
Thank you Sir.

I'll be happy when all the sanding is done.:flipoff2:
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And all the sanding is done.:flipoff2:

Got it sanded out to 2k grit. It looks wet when it's dry now, so I'll take that as it's not just me tied of sanding.

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I'm going to let it sit for a day or so with a fan blowing on it to dry up any water hanging out under it. Also plywood probably wasn't the best choice for the table top. It's all water soaked now.

I think I need to buy a few cheap folding tables from Lowes to lay out all the mold making shit.

And I need to watch some more YT vids to find out what to do next.:flipoff2:
 
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It looks pretty damn good if you ask me. If you don't get rid of those Sanderson headers I may be interested in them if I ever get my motor and tranny!! I've also been looking at building my own headers, but dang those pucks are XXXXXpensive, so if I do go that route I'm wondering about using some 1 1/2" or 2" PVC, but that's down the road right now and I need to think about it a lot more.
 
Kowboy said:
Cool thang is once ya got the mold done, you can start mass producin' 'em.

Ain't no doubt the soccer moms with the 4-doors would love it. :grinpimp:
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Lets see what comes out of the mold first, before we start production:flipoff2::eek:


csutton7 said:
It looks pretty damn good if you ask me. If you don't get rid of those Sanderson headers I may be interested in them if I ever get my motor and tranny!! I've also been looking at building my own headers, but dang those pucks are XXXXXpensive, so if I do go that route I'm wondering about using some 1 1/2" or 2" PVC, but that's down the road right now and I need to think about it a lot more.
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I'm not actively trying to sell the Sanderson headers, they're just sitting around, so just let me know.

Ya, the Ice Engine Works blocks are kinda spendy, but damn they are sweet and simple for complex designs. If you don't need anything too complex, the old bent TIG filler rod goes a good job.
 
will do on the headers. I may be able to borrow some from my engine builder, but we shall see.

Yea those ICE blocks look awesome and would be killer to have, but they aren't in my budget at the moment, so other options will have to prevail once I get the motor and tranny shoved in it.
 
Flanges glued to the hood. Couple coats of Duratec brushed on the flanges so the PVA will stick to it and the mold will come off.
Time to run a fillet of clay around the edges of the hood to remove any kind overhang that could keep the mold from coming off..............that would be bad.:flipoff2:

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Got the hardest part of the hardest side of the headers laid out.

Fuck me, you'd think snapping little blocks together would be fun..........it was for about 30mins. Then the realization of what I needed to do, and the space I had given myself to do it, hit me in the face.

I'm in so far over my head on this one I can taste it:eek:

Anyway, after 342 tries I got cylinders 1&5 and 3&7 connected to their own merge collectors and they all use the exact same length of tube.

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That last pic above is definitely saying the runs to the final merge collector are not going to be equal lengths. I may get lucky, because the two tube will have to cross each other to get under the floor of the tub. I may be able to make a lazy curve in the one that needs to be longer. We'll have to see.
 
For the record....

The flanges are 304 stainless and all the merge collectors and tub are 16ga 321.

This is what the exhaust will basically be..

1 7/8" x 15" into 2.125" x 10" into 3" into resonator and then muffler.

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At least the passenger side will be easier. Cylinders 2&4 and 6&8 get collected together.
 
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