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Blue Jeep build

LINE-X said:
We had a clearance issue with making the winch fit in the rear bumper, so we modified the lever. Love your work, it's inspiring.
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Thank you Sir.

I did try rotating the lever two bolt holes to the rear. It ended up being down past 9 O'clock, kinda silly. So I put it back in it's original position and did a little flap wheel sculpting.


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Also slapped a couple shackle mounts on it.


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Here's a good comparison to show how much the front has been narrowed and why I had to make my own grill.


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I hate questionin' your design decisions 'cause you always have a perfect answer and then I just look stupid ... but ... what's on the backside of them shackle mounts? I usually have mine run directly thru the bumper and into the frame rails. Pretty easy to put one helluva force on 'em.

Are you gonna be able to re-use the chrome 'jeep' badge on the new grille. :flipoff2:
 
Kowboy said:
I hate questionin' your design decisions 'cause you always have a perfect answer and then I just look stupid ... but ... what's on the backside of them shackle mounts? I usually have mine run directly thru the bumper and into the frame rails. Pretty easy to put one helluva force on 'em.

Are you gonna be able to re-use the chrome 'jeep' badge on the new grille. :flipoff2:
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There's actually nothing behind them. I wanted to put a gusset directly behind them but, there was only enough room for a small gusset on one side, zero room on the other. So I went with nothing. However, the front plate on the bumper is .500" cause that's all I had. I welded them on as high as I could with a half inch fillet, so they're not ripping off. We'll have to wait and see if they try to twist the whole thing with a good pull on um.

Yes, there's still room for the jeep grill badge. They are individual letters. I have new black letters to put on it:flipoff2:
 
Rear bumper back on. It's the old FabFour bumper that was on it prior to hacking everything up. I did trim it a bit to get it to fit tighter and had to nip it where the wheel opening is.

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Added a couple work/flood lights that will be run off a switch.


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Also added a piece of 2x4 tube to the rear x-member for piece of mind with the cell so close to the back of the tub.


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The reason for the extra metal. 32gals of glorious potential fire. I don't want this thing to be the Pinto of Jeeps:flipoff2: It is a real cell with a rubber bladder. The can is welded to the tub and it doesn't touch the cage for it underneath. The cage is welded to the frame.


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Cut down the B-pillars and made them removable. Always thought the 4 doors looked stupid when running half/trail doors and still have the B-pillar sticking all the way to the roof.


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Trimmed the rear half doors to clear the rear fenders and actually close.


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I starting pulling out the shit to get started on the headers and realized I ordered 2" flanges instead of 1.875"....................so new flanges are on order.
 
Wow. Just spent the last few hours reading this build. Outstanding work.

I envy your sheet metal fabrication skills, that grill is a work of art! The front end looks killer.

Keep up the great work:beer:
 
Wisconsinite said:
Wow. Just spent the last few hours reading this build. Outstanding work.

I envy your sheet metal fabrication skills, that grill is a work of art! The front end looks killer.

Keep up the great work:beer:
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Thank you Sir.

I've been following your build. It makes me want to set mine on fire................................but I'll keep plugging away.
 
Our builds are almost the same! Big axles, big shocks, you have 75 hp on my engine, friggen paddle shifters and a six speed, and a hero case! I like how we are both still keeping as much body as we can so it is still a "jeep", both running doors, both running tops, etc. Haha.

Wanna race and see who can get them driving first?
 
Wisconsinite said:
Our builds are almost the same! Big axles, big shocks, you have 75 hp on my engine, friggen paddle shifters and a six speed, and a hero case! I like how we are both still keeping as much body as we can so it is still a "jeep", both running doors, both running tops, etc. Haha.

Wanna race and see who can get them driving first?
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Yep, keeping the tub as Jeep as possible was really important. Doors, AC, soft top add a ton of work to implement and build other things around. I think it's worth it though. It will all add to enjoying it.


Hopefully we'll both be done and driving soon:beer:


csutton7 said:
I'll 2nd 1Sinner's comment--good to see progress.
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Thank you Sir



Kowboy said:
The truth shall set you free!! :grinpimp:



And JK tailgates are gay. :stirthepot:



Carry on .... exceptional work as always. :beer:
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There can be only one million dollar tailgate and you already got it. Maybe one day as a side project, but for now I have a working tailgate that wont stop me from getting it running.


Mike_somd said:
How much did it cost for the turd to not have a gay ass tailgate??? 🖕🏻

Kevin- I dig the work you are doing.
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Thank you Sir
 
Just realized something the hard way. I'm no painter, never have been, never will. I suck and I'm cool with that.

Spent the last hour cleaning out the spray gun, because the batch of Duratec primer I mixed up kicked off while it was in the gun. Kind of turned into a hard jello.

And it's not like this was a outlier, this is the first time I've ever used a spray gun. Or mixed paint....................I'm a rattle can guy. I'm at 100% fucking up right out of gate.:smokin:

It called for 2%MEKP. Said 20cc's for a quart. My little measuring cup thing only STARTED at 30cc..................so I guessed.

Wrong fucking move:shaking:
 
Rattle can for the win is my motto--easy to touch up and ya don't gotta mix shit--so I totally get what you're saying. My uncle and I spray painted 3-4 cars a long time ago and what a pain I thought that was, so now it's rattle can for the win.
 
csutton7 said:
Rattle can for the win is my motto--easy to touch up and ya don't gotta mix shit--so I totally get what you're saying. My uncle and I spray painted 3-4 cars a long time ago and what a pain I thought that was, so now it's rattle can for the win.
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I tried it again yesterday and got better results, but it still ended up kicking off in the gun.

I went back last night and read all the instructions again. Well fuck, the primer has a 15-20min pot life. I know for a fact that I was still trying to spray at the 20min point. So the primer did what it's supposed to do........................I'm just too slow.

I guess it comes from being a rattle can guy and never having to think about a time limit.

I did see that it can be brushed and rolled on, so I may just go that route today. What went on yesterday had dried, so I'll need to sand it a bit before going forward.



Kowboy said:
Paint's overrated.

Line-X is your friend.
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I called and asked about having the inside of the tub done with Line-X a while back. It was going to be ~5k....................so I bought a bunch of Lizardskin:flipoff2:

This primer I'm putting on the hood is specifically made for mold making and plugs. It wont get real paint sprayed over it.

It's Duratec 702-002. Can be sanded out to 2000grit and polished to a class A finish for pulling a mold off it.

It says you can pull a mold directly off it without PVA or release agents, but I actually know what I don't know (which is everything) and I'm not taking that chance.
 
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Got the fuel filler hose connected up with a cap on the outside of the tub. Never liked the idea of having the filler cap inside the tub.


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I think I'm going to need to lower where the hose comes through the inner fender well. Just to make sure it's all down hill to the cell. It pretty much is all down hill, but the is a little trough that could create problems when filling up. I don't want to ave the pum shut off a million times trying to stuff 32 gals of fuel in it.


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The factory cover door still fits.......though with a little trimming by the fender



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The new 1.875" header flanges arrived.

Started out installing some stub tubes in the flanges. I'm laying everything out with one of those Ice Engineworks header modeling systems. Yes, it's fancy legos:flipoff2:


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Once all the stubs were tacked in, the flanges were bolted to the engine and the adapters were installed into the stubs.


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Now it's just a process of connecting the ICE blocks together in the shape that I need.


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Each block represents one inch of tube of whatever size tube the block represents. The kit I bought has blocks in 2", 2.5", 3", 4" 5" CLR's and straight pieces.


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Here's the rest of the shit going into the headers. They are going to be a TRI-Y design. 1.875" into 2.125" into 3.00"

I obviously haven't bought the bends yet.


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This will be the rest of the exhaust system. All 3". Vibrant Performance Resonators going into Kook mufflers. Everything is straight through, but hopefully the resonator/muffler combo will do ok. Only thing missing in the pic is a set of Kooks turndowns


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I did have to order more of the Duratec primer. It turned out what I actually got sprayed on the hood wasn't but a few mils and what I rolled on came out so rough, I removed most of it just knocking down all the peaks. So in the end, once I had it smooth, there were still a bunch of spots that went through the Duratec.

So I ordered more Duratec and their reducer and also a bigger tip for the gun. I THINK I should be able to lay the shit down fast enough to beat the short pot live of it.

This Duratec is a lot like a gelcoat. But the hood is sitting sanded out to 320grit right now. So a couple more goos layers and I should be able to sand it all the way out and have nothing but the Duratec showing. I'll be real happy at that point.
 
Simple'72CJ said:
Where are you planning to buy your bends from?
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Most likely Burns Stainless, same place I got all the transitions from. All 16ga 321. So the bends and straight tube will also be 321.

The flanges are from ProFabrication and are 304.

Pretty sure the resonators and mufflers are both 304.


Do you have a connection?
 
gt1guy said:
I think I'm going to need to lower where the hose comes through the inner fender well. Just to make sure it's all down hill to the cell. It pretty much is all down hill, but the is a little trough that could create problems when filling up. I don't want to ave the pum shut off a million times trying to stuff 32 gals of fuel in it.
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Just a word of caution sir, if'n ya actu'ly do ever pump gas into this buggy ( :flipoff2: ) ...

My problem ain't havin' the pump shut off a million times ... it's gettin' it to shut off once. And I believe I might have just a tad more downhill run than you got. My fuel gauge is dead-on accurate so I know damned-near how many gallons I'm gonna need. When the pump gets close to that, I look over the side of the jeep into the clear fill hose that goes to the cell ... and watch it like a hawk. First sign of gas comin' up, I stop the pump immediately. Otherwise ya end up gettin' a fuckin' splash of gas all over ya.

I learned the hard way. Hopefully, now you won't have to. :grinpimp:



Them header buildin' blocks look really cool. :smokin:
 
gt1guy said:
Most likely Burns Stainless, same place I got all the transitions from. All 16ga 321. So the bends and straight tube will also be 321.

The flanges are from ProFabrication and are 304.

Pretty sure the resonators and mufflers are both 304.


Do you have a connection?
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Not really, I was just curious. There's a local place up here called ProSales that makes it convenient for straights. Its all industrial/food grade 304 and was WAY cheaper than anything I could find online. Im sure you could order from them, but may be worth looking into seeing if there's a comparable company closer to you or maybe a location near by.

As far as bend go, I was super impressed with Stainless Bro's. They've got an insane amount of tight radius options that are actually not even mandrel bent, but extruded so there's no distortion at all. Figure your clocking, butt to your straights, and you're ready to start tacking. Essentially no prep work necessary and all their stuff come pre ground/polished.

This is an exhaust I did for a guy at work with pretty much untouched elbows other than a couple odd ball ones to get around the trans pan into the collector.
 

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I'm also in the rattle can camp. Years ago we color matched a Jeep to our motorhome. Happy wife but the dumbest thing I ever did. From here on out, if I scratch it, I can cover it in 5 minutes with Hammered Rustoleum.
 
Kowboy said:
Just a word of caution sir, if'n ya actu'ly do ever pump gas into this buggy ( :flipoff2: ) ...

My problem ain't havin' the pump shut off a million times ... it's gettin' it to shut off once. And I believe I might have just a tad more downhill run than you got. My fuel gauge is dead-on accurate so I know damned-near how many gallons I'm gonna need. When the pump gets close to that, I look over the side of the jeep into the clear fill hose that goes to the cell ... and watch it like a hawk. First sign of gas comin' up, I stop the pump immediately. Otherwise ya end up gettin' a fuckin' splash of gas all over ya.

I learned the hard way. Hopefully, now you won't have to. :grinpimp:



Them header buildin' blocks look really cool. :smokin:
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Well damn, that would suck.

If I'm not mistaken, the gas pump shuts off when the filler hose/neck is completely full of fuel. But, if the angle is not just right, it will allow fuel to flow past the nozzle before the filler hose/neck is full.

I still need to wash out all the shit that has probably fallen into the cell. Once I get the vent made I'll cap everything else off and fill the thing with water the way it sits. That might be a good way to get an idea of how it's gonna act.

I can lower where the filler hose goes through the inner fender. That would make the run up to the cap steeper. It would also take some angle out of what running from the inner fender to the cell........but there would still be an angle to it.

The hole I put in the inner fender for the hose was a guess that I did a long time ago:homer:
 
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