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Anyone regret doing a Cummins swap?

I ran a stock 6.2 diesel cable in my crewcab, and used the dodge one in my buddys crew. I don't remember what my other buddy used on his 99 ford conversion but it was probably the stock ford one.
 
Wilson said:
5 yrs ago you would have installed it in less time than you spent messaging the seller and posting here
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But I would have spent far less money on a part I knew wasn't going to be a direct bolt in.

I guess I should know better.

What's funny is they somehow found a worse cable than the stock cummins one that only needs a bit of filing
 
This is funny. I also bought some of my initial parts from DCS before I trusted my own abilities.....everything I bought from them sucked. And 90% of the radiator hose kit which should have had working pieces....ended up in the parts bin or trash. You are 10x better of asking on here or figuring it out yourself. I did find that the Crazy Carl parts/pieces work well!
 
I dealt with Jamie at CPP years ago with a set of injectors for my old 12V. Would not recommend them at all. I can't believe he's still in business.
 
Burns said:
This is funny. I also bought some of my initial parts from DCS before I trusted my own abilities.....everything I bought from them sucked. And 90% of the radiator hose kit which should have had working pieces....ended up in the parts bin or trash. You are 10x better of asking on here or figuring it out yourself. I did find that the Crazy Carl parts/pieces work well!
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This was cpp, but ya, dcs hasn't been impressive either, except for the bell adapter.

What kills me is they sell all these conversion parts, but have zero pics of them installed.
 
rockota said:
Wait…

Complaining that a Cummins into a ford isn’t a “bolt-in” swap?

Is this yotatech?
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No, but if you sell a part that says it goes from this truck to that engine. Then yes I believe it should drop in. If it doesn't, you should have a disclaimer.

Like if you bought say a th350 to Toyota tcase adapter and it actually didn't bolt to the toyota case at all unless you drilled all new studs and welded a new input on. :laughing:
 
Well I feel like an idiot about now.

Decided to just order the dodge cable since lots of people saying it works great. Placed the order about 15 mins ago. Then happened to be looking in the bed of the truck and noticed the cable I grabbed off a 300 i6 truck, sure enough it almost works perfectly, just the hole is slightly too big.:laughing:

So between 3 cables I should be able to make something work :homer:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Well I feel like an idiot about now.

Decided to just order the dodge cable since lots of people saying it works great. Placed the order about 15 mins ago. Then happened to be looking in the bed of the truck and noticed the cable I grabbed off a 300 i6 truck, sure enough it almost works perfectly, just the hole is slightly too big.:laughing:

So between 3 cables I should be able to make something work :homer:
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Man I know that you watched me lose my shit for years over this “they said…” bullshit. You’re smart and “crafty,” walk away when needed, then come back. You’ll figure it out.
 
Wilson said:
Man I know that you watched me lose my shit for years over this “they said…” bullshit. You’re smart and “crafty,” walk away when needed, then come back. You’ll figure it out.
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I guess you're right, it's not just diesel stuff, but they seem more consistently bad.

I just don't get how companies make money selling shit that isn't what they say it is. Part of the reason I'm posting about it is to maybe come up on a Google search.

I walked away for almost a year after the ps pump fiasco.:laughing:

Anyway, I was able to cancel the 12v cable. Fuck cpp, ill report the cc charge if they dont want to cooperate.

I'm also glad I found the junkyard cable since it works directly with the cruise module I grabbed from the jy also. Spent a little time and made it all work.

Length and throw looked pretty close, hole was a little big (that's what she said:confused:)

20230512_173429.jpg


Then I remembered I grabbed brackets just for this reason. Cut a little off the 12v bracket, cut the needed piece off the Ford bracket and tacked them together to check throw.

20230512_190005.jpg


Still had to bolt in the pedal. The 7.3 had studs with hexes in the middle to space off the floor, while the gas truck had bolts and these spacers. Literally broke the spot welds off with pliers and touched up with a flap wheel.
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Throw matched perfectly, but there is a little slack in the pedal I may crimp or something a little deal on the cable at the pedal side to take it up. Currently can get pull throttle, so not too concerned.

Cable is a hair long, but not bad.

20230512_190013.jpg


Welded and paint

20230512_191908.jpg


rockota said:
Just now? Really? :flipoff2:
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Yes, I finally know how you feel everyday :flipoff2:
 

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Nice progress! Make sure your idle adjuster at the back of the pump that acts as a stop for the throttle cable has the lock but nice an tight while your in there, i constantly had problems with mine vibrating itself loose and lowering my idle
 
I'm pretty sure that's exactly what we did on my buddy's Bronco years ago to use the Ford cable with the Dodge bracket.

Maybe I missed it, cable fuel shutoff or solenoid? We tried the solenoid until it caught on fire one day and became a cable ever since.
 
On my (originally idi) 88 f350 ppump truck I used a 92 7.5 throttle pedal and cable

I believe I cut the arm if the 460 throttle body and welded it, or maybe machine screwed it to the dodge throttle lever
 
vetteboy79 said:
I'm pretty sure that's exactly what we did on my buddy's Bronco years ago to use the Ford cable with the Dodge bracket.

Maybe I missed it, cable fuel shutoff or solenoid? We tried the solenoid until it caught on fire one day and became a cable ever since.
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I just ordered a solenoid, but thanks for making me 2nd guess something else :flipoff2:

Projectjunkie said:
On my (originally idi) 88 f350 ppump truck I used a 92 7.5 throttle pedal and cable

I believe I cut the arm if the 460 throttle body and welded it, or maybe machine screwed it to the dodge throttle lever
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Wierd, the cable I got (mid 90s 300 i6 I believe) popped right on the dodge ball.

Why did you have to switch out the idi pedal for a gas one?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I just ordered a solenoid, but thanks for making me 2nd guess something else :flipoff2:



Wierd, the cable I got (mid 90s 300 i6 I believe) popped right on the dodge ball.

Why did you have to switch out the idi pedal for a gas one?
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I don't remember, built that truck in 2009:homer:

Probably something goofy about the idi ends

As for the ball, I think it was a different size, and seems to me I was making sure I'd get smooth full travel
 
So this finally came, it's definitely low profile enough at 3/4"

20230515_180542.jpg


I'm a little worried about it being a restriction, but I don't thinknit would be any worse than the hard 90 on the factory ford line. I also would have liked a little longer neck on the banjo, but we'll see.
 
So I emailed a few days ago, then called and texted today screaming seeman about the gm 1 wire bracket. No response:homer:

So I think I'll just make one. If the hack ass previous owner made it work, I'm sure I can. :laughing:

The only wierd part is both the lower mount on the engine and on the alternator are one ~2" wide mount. Previous guy just made 2 little flatbars with 2 holes each, but no way to really keep it from flopping around. So I'll have to figure something out there.


Any reason it can't be upside-down? :laughing:
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I don't think I've ever seen so much caterwauling over an engine swap in my entire fucking life.

That being said, I'm along for the ride, even if this guy is being a bitch about it, :flipoff2:
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That's because I've never posted an engine swap thread before :flipoff2:


This isn't a crawler or a play toy, I'm trying to maintain as much factory reliability/serviceability as possible.

Hence not buying the bolt in alternator that I can't get a replacement for on the side of the road. I do wonder if I should have just bought the 7.3 alternator bracket like I did the ac, but that was one thing that was unreliable on the 7.3. I think I went through 3 or 4 in 10 years.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I don't think I've ever seen so much caterwauling over an engine swap in my entire fucking life.

That being said, I'm along for the ride, even if this guy is being a bitch about it, :flipoff2:
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I agree. Just leave the factory Cummins brackets, A/C compressor and alternator in place and plumb everything in. It's not that difficult to make it work.
 
Johnny Longrifle said:
I agree. Just leave the factory Cummins brackets, A/C compressor and alternator in place and plumb everything in. It's not that difficult to make it work.
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Man, why didn't I think of that :homer:

Ac compressor doesn't clear the frame, and I don't want custom lines. The Ford ac bracket I bought works well.

I don't have a dodge alternator, and if I did, it's an external regulator, which I don't want since the last one I had fried a battery. $12 part with a warranty, cost me $200.

I can just buy a $300 internally regulated alternator from diesel conversion suckasses and bolt it on, but when it takes a shit in bfe, I'm kinda fucked.

Why is that hard to comprehend? I never said I wanted the easiest or cheapest option. I'm only posting here to show a few people that you don't have to just use all the hack shit that's out there. What's the point of another thread doing everything the easy cheap hack way?
 
There are internal reg conversion kits for the dodge ram alternator that work exceptionally well. I've had one in my alt on my cruiser's 4bt for 10 years. Only had one failure in that time, but even that was likely caused by the excite wire nut loosening up and falling off.

The kit costs like $20 and is tiny, fits under the original alt case cover on the back. Cheap enough I keep a spare in the truck, but it's never been pulled out.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
There are internal reg conversion kits for the dodge ram alternator that work exceptionally well. I've had one in my alt on my cruiser's 4bt for 10 years. Only had one failure in that time, but even that was likely caused by the excite wire nut loosening up and falling off.

The kit costs like $20 and is tiny, fits under the original alt case cover on the back. Cheap enough I keep a spare in the truck, but it's never been pulled out.
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???????

www.ebay.com

Dodge Cummins 89-1998 Denso Alternator Internal Regulator Conversion Kit Diesel | eBay

Internal Alternator Regulator Conversion Kit. This part converts an externally regulated alternator to a self regulating alternator. This can be used for engine conversions or when the ECM has failed and does not regulate the charging properly.
www.ebay.com
 
SHARPMACHINE said:
???????

www.ebay.com

Dodge Cummins 89-1998 Denso Alternator Internal Regulator Conversion Kit Diesel | eBay

Internal Alternator Regulator Conversion Kit. This part converts an externally regulated alternator to a self regulating alternator. This can be used for engine conversions or when the ECM has failed and does not regulate the charging properly.
www.ebay.com
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Pretty much, yeah. I have used and am using the Transpo IN8315, but the place I bought it from last doesn't list it anymore.

Looks like I installed the first one 8 years ago, not 10, but whatever. More info here:

www.4btswaps.com

Dodge Alternator Internal Regulator Conversion

Saw this thread over on Compd. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180405 Going to do this to my Dakota alternator, getting the external regulator or pcm regulator to be consistent has been driving me crazy over the years lol. I've boiled a few batteries and don't want to...
www.4btswaps.com www.4btswaps.com
 
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