What's new
By:
Filters

Anyone regret doing a Cummins swap?

yes, you can hit the key to pull it in, or push it up by hand while you're checking adjustment.
 
Alexis700 said:
I am gonna do a Diesel Auto Power , borg 62/65/12 on the 24 valve for when it gets turned up. That truck is running edge comp, DDP 150s and a hx35, its perfect now. Tows awesome and roasts the 37s in 3rd if you hit an expansion joint when merging, kinda annoying when it does that cause Im trying to speed up not leave rubber on the road.

62/65/12 is a tight exhaust housing and turbine wheel but about the best option for a towing single. Once you get into a 68mm or larger turbine or bigger than 12cm3 exhaust housing the lag becomes an issue for a truck that tows.

The 62/65/12 has been around for a long time , and honestly in a manual truck will feel stronger on the street than say a 64/68 because of how fast and hard it will spool. Going to give up top end power and egts will be higher on top, but it will hold lower egts when crusing on highway whereas a big single wont be moving any air at cruise.
Click to expand...

I swapped from a hybrid Super 40/ HX35 to a 62/65/12 on my Cummins K30. It has 3k gov springs, a 0 plate, 180hp pump, 5x12 injectors, 15 deg timing, and a NV4500. I swapped after blowing a head gasket and adding O rings and head studs. It actually hurt the towing experience over the hybrid turbo. The truck comes alive with my foot in the throttle but the 3-4 gear split is worse when towing and I have to downshift more often. The slower shifting with the dual disk clutch doesn't help.
 
If you set the timing to somewhere between 17 to 19 degrees it should help get that turbo spooling better, not huge difference but it will help.
 
That was close :eek:

20241117_093628.jpg


Felt a weird little vibration sometimes when shifting glad I decided to check it out:laughing:
 
Burns said:
I can confirm that with a 12valve, fuel plate, worked pump, injectors, head studs, dual disc.....this nails it......but a 64mm turbo is a little much. Its sweet for mashing the throttle and smoking out a city block, but towing its not all that happy. The ZF6, with its big jumps between gears, loses all boost so basically you pick a gear and stick with it or shift and then work to build up all that pressure again.

Open to recommendations for turbos :)

Currently have 5x.014 injectors, Borq SX364, and a Farrell 215hp worked pump that flows 620cc :grinpimp:
Click to expand...
What about a cam swap?

I’m running Colt’s “The Big Stick” camshaft, along with deleted fuel plate for in favor of Power Driven Diesel’s AFC LIVE tuner, timing at like 17*, 4,000 rpm governor springs, Mack plug, 3 pcs exhaust manifold with PDD’s “drop in” s362sxe turbo on it. Still running stock 180hp injectors and dvs.

I think a cam swap will help your 64mm turbo to spool alike what you will with 62mm and stock cam. Although the cam swap will be pita to do in-truck…. Sometime a turbo swap will be just easier to get what you’re looking for. :laughing:


I haven’t find myself wishing for more power with my current set up for my needs. Granted I think bigger injectors will improve spooling considerably.

I need to fix my injector tester’s reservoir and try again testing my 5x14 injectors... I think my truck will be rowdy and fun to drive with them… if the LuK cerametallic OE replacement 13” clutch will hold. :homer:
 
Got my driveshaft back from the shop. 3 new joints, new carrier bearing, ballanced both half's and redid the shitty shortening job :homer:

Then I made the mistake of tearing into the front end to swap in the 3.54s during a holiday weekend :laughing:

First noticed the rotors looked rough, then my 12 year old noticed a giant crack :homer:

Upper bj has some play

Had to literally beat the spindles off, sledge and air hammer. So those are toast. Luckily my father in law has an extra set, as long as the KP ones are the same?

Rotors and ball joints are easy to find locally. I just hate to put parts store generic junk ball joints in. Or does it really matter these days?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Had to literally beat the spindles off, sledge and air hammer. So those are toast. Luckily my father in law has an extra set, as long as the KP ones are the same?

- double check the king pin spindles against the late 90s bj 60. There maybe a difference due to caliber mounting styles.


Rotors and ball joints are easy to find locally. I just hate to put parts store generic junk ball joints in. Or does it really matter these days?

- it's all garbage from my understanding. Spicer parts make me feel better
Click to expand...
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Rotors and ball joints are easy to find locally. I just hate to put parts store generic junk ball joints in. Or does it really matter these days?
Click to expand...

My typical method of judgment is to call the parts store. Ask if they have X, hpw much and what brand?...Go on Rockauto, see how the numbers compare and go from there.

If they are selling me the "Economy" brand for the "Premium" price, Ill go Rockauto for the part I actually want and wait. Lets call it "personal standards".
 
I have had bad luck with most off the shelf ball joints unless it’s spicer. Even then, I wish we had a better alternative in between spicer strength/quality without going all the way up to dynatrac ball joint price or BJ eliminators.

if these are your forever axles in your forever never sell it truck EMF makes high quality shit.
 
Pretty much what I thought on parts store vs Spicer. Looking online, anything I can get local is the same or more money than Spicer off Amazon.

Biggest problem is it's blown apart in my work's shop. :homer:

06h3 said:
I have had bad luck with most off the shelf ball joints unless it’s spicer. Even then, I wish we had a better alternative in between spicer strength/quality without going all the way up to dynatrac ball joint price or BJ eliminators.

if these are your forever axles in your forever never sell it truck EMF makes high quality shit.
Click to expand...

One issue is that I'd planned to swap those F550 knuckles I got from you onto this axle, with some srw unit bearings. Problem is that I'll need 18-20" wheels, different stubs, ub's locking hubs, steering mods, ect.

I guess if I spent the money on emf, I would just swap them over to the new knuckles though.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Got my driveshaft back from the shop. 3 new joints, new carrier bearing, ballanced both half's and redid the shitty shortening job :homer:

Then I made the mistake of tearing into the front end to swap in the 3.54s during a holiday weekend :laughing:

First noticed the rotors looked rough, then my 12 year old noticed a giant crack :homer:

Upper bj has some play

Had to literally beat the spindles off, sledge and air hammer. So those are toast. Luckily my father in law has an extra set, as long as the KP ones are the same?

Rotors and ball joints are easy to find locally. I just hate to put parts store generic junk ball joints in. Or does it really matter these days?
Click to expand...

Didn’t seem to matter that much on my 2000 D50… 60k out of a set of genuine spicer BJ’s was pretty disappointing.
 
Snowy said:
Didn’t seem to matter that much on my 2000 D50… 60k out of a set of genuine spicer BJ’s was pretty disappointing.
Click to expand...

Been reading that on forums also.

They all tout xrf. Which are actually one of the cheapest options out there.

I might just have to save the ball joints for another time.
 
I've had good luck out of the precision ball joints from oreillys so far. Got their control arms in the front of my Tahoe and duramax. Haven't used them on a solid axle yet.
 
Obviously I'm biased but I recommend the FLT balljoints from NAPA.

Spicer is the same quality level as your moog and mevotec brands now.
 
What sucks is spicer has gone down and moog problem solvers were a solid upgrade and affordable but they turned to shit.
 
06h3 said:
What sucks is spicer has gone down and moog problem solvers were a solid upgrade and affordable but they turned to shit.
Click to expand...

I noticed that it currently has moogs. I got the truck at 200k miles and I don't remember them looking brand new. Currently has ~340k miles, so probably safe to assume they lasted around 160-180k miles.
 
Def get another set of MOOG then. They likely are knurled. Unless it’s smooth back then, get smooth spicer set.

Pretty sure all kinds of people shaming on BJs causing steering problems or premature wear/failures were from their improper install.

Press them in correctly, and torque upper and lower nuts correctly and they’ll last reasonably long.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh