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Anyone regret doing a Cummins swap?

So the lower rad hose was really passing me off. So I said fuck this stabbed together hose bull shit and got out the welder :laughing:

Happened to still have the 7.3 rad neck that had a tight 90*

Cut about 1" off the cast piece, plus the unused ac bracket while i was at it. Then cut the 90* as close as I could to the bend. Both the cast piece and 90 happened to be 1 7/8" ID plus I happened to have a piece of tube that was 1 7/8" OD so I cut a small sleeve to help align and not burn through the thin wall 90*

Preheat, welded up quick and back to post heat. Not pretty, but should work. In fact it looks like one of the stock lower 7.3 rad hoses will work perfectly.

Imo, this is the types of parts these companies should sell.

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Now the upper hose I'm not sure if I want to do something similar or splice 2 hoses together. Again, the stock 7.3 upper looks closest, but is aboit a foot short.
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So local guy didn't have the different fan hub, when I showed him the pic he said that's a 4bt :homer:

Looks like they are pretty hard to find so maybe not a good route anyway. Either I have to build a shroud or cut the fan down....
 
Well got the main rad hoses done, came out pretty decent I think. All are stock 7.3 hoses, so easy to replace.

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Made a small support bracket just to be safe.

Now I'm trying to figure out what to do with the intake filter. I either need to relocate the passenger battery. Or relocate the washer tank and degas bottle.

Battery would probably be easier, but for some reason I'm hesitant. Probabaly because the positive cable is not very old and wasn't cheap. I'm having a hard time seeing how I could make it work without it being hack.
 
I'm not sure what battery cable issues you're up against, but when I cummins swapped my idi f350, I basically flipped the cable assy over, and if I recall, I moved the fender relay to the driver's side, and peeled the start wire out of the harness and shortened it up
 
Projectjunkie said:
I'm not sure what battery cable issues you're up against, but when I cummins swapped my idi f350, I basically flipped the cable assy over, and if I recall, I moved the fender relay to the driver's side, and peeled the start wire out of the harness and shortened it up
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My starter is still on the pass side since I have a ford trans.

I just need a spot for an air filter:laughing:

I think I'm going to just put everything together and see what it looks like, I may have to get a smaller filter.
 
So I'm having a brain fart on the starter wiring.

The 7.3 had a relay on the pass fender, for some reason I thought this was an old school thing and to eliminate it, since most shit has the relay on the starter. But now looking at the starter. (Adapter uses a 6.0/6.4 starter) I'm thinking I just hook it up the same.

Am I mixing up relay and solenoid? :homer:

Edit: yep, hooked it up the same as the 7.3 and it worked. Decided to run it since I haven't heard the engine run since before I loaded the dodge on the trailer, fired up with a little bit of encouragement. Once it idled for 10 seconds I shut it off and it fired right back-up :smokin:
 
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I didn't like the wierd combination of fittings for the heater hose and degas bottle, so I decided to just add a 1" nipple to the 90* I welded on.

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A while back I noticed dcs had ic pipes for a 12v with a he351 in a 6.0 truck. That's the engine, turbo and ic but obviously in a different truck. I decided to give it a gamble and they were the right angles, but my ic obviously sits way further forward so I used the stock 12v pipes to extend them. All the boots were correct.
 
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06h3 said:
When’s the first trip? Excited to see how it tows
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I'm not sure, I want to drive it to work and whatnot to work the bugs out. I'm hoping to do a Fordyce and Rubicon trip this summer, so maybe take this?

Today was our 12 year anniversary and was the goal for a test drive. I've been messing with it since about noon on Friday and could make it happen if I really wanted to, but I'm thinking I better not hack it together just to drive 2 miles.

I did run it for about 20 Mins and got some coolant in it. 2 issues.

It has a bad hesitation when trying to Rev, if you floor it, it will kinda work through it and Rev out. I'm guessing maybe the fuel isn't great or it's sucking air somewhere.

2 pretty bad oil leaks, one at turbo drain and one at fuel pump. Both of which were installed by the "pro" :homer:

Should be fairly easy. The way the fuel pump leak was dripping down the bellowing made me briefly nervous that it was the rear main.:laughing:
 
Also, anyone have a idea of a decent spot to tie the FSS in? I tried a key on fuse in the under hood box but it would start for a second and die. When I checked it with the voltmeter, it was dropping when cranking.
 
what is your timing set at on the motor? low timing can make it hesitate, as well as low fuel pressure.
no idea where to tie in your hold solenoid on the ford but the pullup part should be triggered off the starter wire.
 
This is the diagram I used. Just need to use the starter solenoid wire like already mentioned, and make sure the Hold wire is hot in both run, and in start.

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V30crewcab said:
what is your timing set at on the motor? low timing can make it hesitate, as well as low fuel pressure.
no idea where to tie in your hold solenoid on the ford but the pullup part should be triggered off the starter wire.
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I have not touched it injection pump at all. Plan was to get it running, then worry about fuel plate, government spring and timing.

Ive only messed with a VE pump before, so ill have to look into how to check timing.

Edit: I read a little bit about it and I guess the 15/16" nut on the back driverside of rhe pump is the timing window? Considering this was not even hand tight, I'm guessing idiot messed with it. So I'll have to check it myself.

BustedCrank said:
This is the diagram I used. Just need to use the starter solenoid wire like already mentioned, and make sure the Hold wire is hot in both run, and in start.

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Thays the exact diagram that came with the pigtail from dcs. The only issue is that #9 fuse in both fuse boxes is not key on power. Was just curious if anyone knew of a good source for the 97.
 
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no thats not the timing window. there isn't one. thats for adjust the gov springs. don't get into that right now. might need some clear hose to the pump to look for air bubbles. try pushing the primer bulb on the fuel pump a few times before you start it and see if its better.
 
V30crewcab said:
no thats not the timing window. there isn't one. thats for adjust the gov springs. don't get into that right now. might need some clear hose to the pump to look for air bubbles. try pushing the primer bulb on the fuel pump a few times before you start it and see if its better.
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Clear hose was the golden ticket on my buddies bobcat that had bogging issues. Someone suggested that here, might have been you?

Old man mechanic at work suggested seafoam in the fuel?
 
Not sure if your pump has it, but on my old VE engine the banjo bolt for the fuel return had a restrictor built in to it. It was accidentally swapped for a standard banjo bolt while I was replacing the lift pump and the truck ran like shit with no power after.

Eventually figured it out when I was leaning in the engine bay and had my weight pinching the return line and the truck immediately straightened itself out.
 
Air in fuel will be obvious. Hard start and act as if it’s misfiring.

Was there any smoke when trying to rev it? White/gray smoke usually means its timing is too retarded or advanced. Most likely retarded as too much timing will make for hard starting. I think, anyway.

I once had similar slow revving issue when the screen filter right next the lift pump got clogged.
 
Gots_a_sol said:
Not sure if your pump has it, but on my old VE engine the banjo bolt for the fuel return had a restrictor built in to it. It was accidentally swapped for a standard banjo bolt while I was replacing the lift pump and the truck ran like shit with no power after.

Eventually figured it out when I was leaning in the engine bay and had my weight pinching the return line and the truck immediately straightened itself out.
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Jeez, that would be a tough one to figure out.

TrailTamer said:
Air in fuel will be obvious. Hard start and act as if it’s misfiring.

Was there any smoke when trying to rev it? White/gray smoke usually means its timing is too retarded or advanced. Most likely retarded as too much timing will make for hard starting. I think, anyway.

I once had similar slow revving issue when the screen filter right next the lift pump got clogged.
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Yes, shit load of white smoke.
 
So I just went out to start it and it did not want to, tried the primer bulb a few times and didn't want to go without a little huff from a can. I'm thinking it's got to be a air in fuel issue.
 
Had similar issues many years ago. Bought some clear line and installed it going from the lp pump to the hp pump. That showed me that I was getting air in the line. Do not even remember the source, but remember it helped me diagnose the issue.



Anyone regret doing a Cummins swap? lol​

 
So timing is off.

I now have zero faith in anything that idiot did to this engine, loose bolts, bad timing, un even head studs, multiple oil leaks.

All the guy does is work on these engines everyday, no idea how people do this type of work and stay in business.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
no idea how people do this type of work and stay in business.
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Because for every person like you there's a million dumb sacks of shit on Reddit or the Tacoma forums that think that they need to take their garbage to a "professional" to get everything done.
 
BTW, big thanks to TrailTamer for holding my hand on that via text.

Still didn't want to start and has a much more mild hesitation. But waaay better. Not sure if I am off just a hair on timing or I also have an air intrusion issue. Might need to throw some clear lines on to be sure.

Looked at the oil leaks closer, the driver side is not the fuel pump, it's the dip stick tube it's basically falling apart about 1" from the block :homer: Quick Google shows $300 tube from cummins.....and $20 parts from Amazon.......so I'll have to dive into that more.

The turbo leak is the drain tube it's self, someone clearly cut and welded on it and it's leaking through the weld like crazy.
 
Don't get too worried about your free revving misfire and smoke. IME 12ers just don't do that very good, especially with a mechanical lift pump.

I probably missed it, but what lift pump setup are you using? The stock LP/fuel heater/inlet screen assembly is prone to air intrusion with no visible fuel leak.

X whatever on clear fuel hoses to locate air intrusion.
 
Johnny Longrifle said:
Don't get too worried about your free revving misfire and smoke. IME 12ers just don't do that very good, especially with a mechanical lift pump.

I probably missed it, but what lift pump setup are you using? The stock LP/fuel heater/inlet screen assembly is prone to air intrusion with no visible fuel leak.

X whatever on clear fuel hoses to locate air intrusion.
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Started it today after work to see how it would "cold" (65*) start. It fired right up for a second and died, then was hard to start for a bit, but did eventually.

I'm guessing it's loosing prime, so probably some sort of air intrusion going on. So ya, clear fuel hose is the next step.

New stock lift pump


Gravy said:
Check the simple things, fill the fuel tank with diesel, change the filters, fuel tank pickup tube. Ect
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Both tanks are pretty full, filter is new, and with 2 tanks I can rule out pickup tube.

Everything from the frame rail back worked per fine with the 7.3, so I doubt that's the issue, but you never know.
 
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