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Anyone regret doing a Cummins swap?

SHARPMACHINE said:
???????

www.ebay.com

Dodge Cummins 89-1998 Denso Alternator Internal Regulator Conversion Kit Diesel | eBay

Internal Alternator Regulator Conversion Kit. This part converts an externally regulated alternator to a self regulating alternator. This can be used for engine conversions or when the ECM has failed and does not regulate the charging properly.
www.ebay.com
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That's the same one Larry B's sells for $90 lol. I changed mine on my 99 ram to internal after I friend the PCM and was selling the truck.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
So will this work on any parts store alternator? Or does it have to be the factory denso?
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Any I've seen. Denso, cheap rockauto, whatever. The same wire connections that are used have to be there to connect to the factory wiring, so I don't see how there can be an alt for that truck/engine that it won't work on.
 
That's good to know, that may sway my decision.

I just want as many parts available at parts stores as possible. If I have to swap the internal regulator in, that's no big deal.

I've lost the alternator in the truck 3 times while at work. The last 2 were an hour from a parts store and I barely made it to the parking lot with basically no headlights:laughing: went to leave town and the replacement was hitting 16+ volts :homer:

So maybe that's why I'm over thinking it :flipoff2:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
went to leave town and the replacement was hitting 16+ volts :homer:
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Had that happen with the original external vr setup, which is what pushed me to the transpo internal vr. It's easy mode, makes the dodge alt basically one wire (excite and charging wires only) like Chevy ones.
 
Revealed the vacuum pump and got it and the new ps pump mounted with the banjo bolt. Clears just enough to finagle the whole thing in.

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pcorssmit said:
I dealt with Jamie at CPP years ago with a set of injectors for my old 12V. Would not recommend them at all. I can't believe he's still in business.
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They fucked around with me on what should be simple sales. Terrible exp. Wont call you back or answer emails. Shipping next week means 3 months.
 
Levigarrett76 said:
They fucked around with me on what should be simple sales. Terrible exp. Wont call you back or answer emails. Shipping next week means 3 months.
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He stopped responding to my emails when I asked for a refund then called and left a message saying call or text. I decided text because I wanted documentation of what was said. He then tried calling. Just seems shady he's avoiding bothering email and text. As of right now we have a claim in to dispute the charges. I have no problem sending it back, but not on my own dime.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
He stopped responding to my emails when I asked for a refund then called and left a message saying call or text. I decided text because I wanted documentation of what was said. He then tried calling. Just seems shady he's avoiding bothering email and text. As of right now we have a claim in to dispute the charges. I have no problem sending it back, but not on my own dime.
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I don't recall exactly., but I think my experience was similar, wound up having to dispute to get $ back for shit that never showed up. circa 2015

Im shocked they still in business
 
Fwiw, I ordered 2 of the above internal regulator kits and a factory application alternator.

I wasn't sure which one to get, so I went with a duralast gold, which is an actual new alternator. It's what I had on my 7.3 and seemed to be the most reliable. I really thought about a used stocker off ebay, but the price wasn't that far off and the lifetime warranty at any vatozone is nice.

From pics it looks like the alternator just uses ring terminals? So no need for a pigtail?

June 11th is coming quick :flipoff2:
 
Whipped out the exhaust yesterday. The down pipe I ordered worked pretty well. It's tight being 4" the whole way. I squeezed it in the press a bit in a few spots. Hindsight, I would have probably used 3.5" I noticed my 2019 6.7psd work trucks exhaust is 3.5" for a while in the front. So I can't imagine it not being big enough for this turd :laughing:

Had to make a slight bend and about a 18" long piece to connect to where the diamond eye exhaust was 4". Used a 180*, a 4' piece and a 4" v band from summit. Made it super easy to build and will make dropping the down pipe a 2 nuts and 1 min job.

I always hate might welding exhaust, since it never seems to really look great no matter what, but oh well. I'm going to wrap the down pipe with heat wrap just incase. Hopefully it won't rust too fast not being stainless. :homer:

Pics later, have a lot to do for my test drive on sunday :flipoff2:
 
So after returning the 2nd can, going to a different store and getting a different can, that can having a broken nozzle, returning that, getting a 4th can, and gcc holding my hand on how to use vht paint, it's done :laughing:

Came out looking pretty nice I think. It's pretty tight, but not hitting anything. I don't think it's any tighter than the aftermarket 7.3 down pipe.
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Noticed that my diamond eye "stainless" exhaust is looking pretty.....stained. took a magnet to it and it sticks hard like mild steel. :homer:
 
So I'm trying to research what fan has more clearance. Is it the 1st gen fan, the clutch or the bracket that gives another inch of clearance?

I dropped the rad in and it's tight.
 
The first gen intercooled fan hub will give you some more clearance. But it also moves it up and over at the same time. Here's a post with pictures of the two fan hubs.

#106

First and third picture are the intercooled first gen hub, second picture is the non intercooled/p pump trucks fan hub.
 
So I'm trying to research what fan has more clearance. Is it the 1st gen fan, the clutch or the bracket that gives another inch of clearance?

I dropped the rad in and it's tight.

Also, like someone mentioned, the radiator hose kit is an absolute joke
 
BustedCrank said:
The first gen intercooled fan hub will give you some more clearance. But it also moves it up and over at the same time. Here's a post with pictures of the two fan hubs.

#106

First and third picture are the intercooled first gen hub, second picture is the non intercooled/p pump trucks fan hub.
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Thank you

I don't think that will work with it moving that much up.

Right now the fan is damn near rubbing the top of the rad where the core and tank meet.

I think I have a little room to tweak or modify my brackets and maybe slide the core support forward a bit since nothing is really tightend yet.

The frustrating part about this is that everyone makes it sound like everything just fits together great. Then you have companies like dcs selling a bunch of garbage but some how get people to eat it up.

Funny how I noticed in thier "instructions" they have a ton of stuff about returns in big bold red font. Clearly they have lots of people trying to send the shit back.
 
V30crewcab mentioned using a pre '87 BBC fan (87 they went to serp belt and spin the wrong way). I tried an aftermarket fan that would have gave me an ich or so, but the blades were too far back and hit the balancer. If your original fan spins the right way, see if it'll help you gain any room.
 
I used an 85ish bbc fan blade on it. then later I found a 91.5-93 intrercooled fan hub and pulley so I had to go back to a cummins fan, which is too tall, so I actually spun the blade, marked an inch with a sharpie while spinning, and cut the tips off a cummins blade. been running that for probably 10 yrs. I have room for a 4 core rad that way in my k30.
 
V30crewcab said:
I used an 85ish bbc fan blade on it. then later I found a 91.5-93 intrercooled fan hub and pulley so I had to go back to a cummins fan, which is too tall, so I actually spun the blade, marked an inch with a sharpie while spinning, and cut the tips off a cummins blade. been running that for probably 10 yrs. I have room for a 4 core rad that way in my k30.
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I thought about trimming the fan, but was hesitant. Maybe it's not that big of a deal.
 
it worked for me. use at your own risk! mine only revs to 4k so not as bad as a high revving gas motor!!
 
YotaAtieToo said:
So I'm trying to research what fan has more clearance. Is it the 1st gen fan, the clutch or the bracket that gives another inch of clearance?
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From the "let's tear apart a perfectly good truck" thread:
aczlan said:
Digging on Rock Auto (1992 DODGE W350 PICKUP 5.9L L6 DIESEL Turbocharged Radiator Fan Clutch | RockAuto), they list the fan bearing assembly with intercooler as a Gates FB1002 More Information for GATES FB1002
They have two different fan clutches that are different thicknesses as well:
Without intercooler is a Hayden 2788 which has a overall height of 3.63" More Information for HAYDEN 2788

With intercooler is a Hayden 2798 which has a overall height of 3.27" More Information for HAYDEN 2798
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Aaron Z
 
BustedCrank said:
The first gen intercooled fan hub will give you some more clearance. But it also moves it up and over at the same time. Here's a post with pictures of the two fan hubs.

#106

First and third picture are the intercooled first gen hub, second picture is the non intercooled/p pump trucks fan hub.
Click to expand...

So now that I have everything bolted in, I think this may be what I need, fan is hard into the driverside of the shroud and I think I have enough room on top.

I'm guessing you need the pulley to go with that style hub?
 
yes the pulley is different as well as the hub. you also have to run a 92-93 belt with it.
 
V30crewcab said:
yes the pulley is different as well as the hub. you also have to run a 92-93 belt with it.
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Local diesel shop says he has all the different versions so I'm going to at least give the other version a try, if that doesn't work, I'm not sure what to do, :laughing:

Stock belts out the window with my ac relocation anyway.
 
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