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Anyone regret doing a Cummins swap?

interesting first couple pages but I’m not sifting through 20 right now.

What was the consensus?

Based on the first few pages my vote would have been to go with a LB7 - LBZ Duramax. Not a swap, but the complete truck. I’m sure you’re past that option now. A SAS is comparatively easier and less “hodge podge” than a power train swap for a daily use application. Everything else about the duramax and the wrapper it comes in of those years I think solves your problems better than a Cummins in an old Ford or a rebuild of a 7.3
 
fl0w3n said:
interesting first couple pages but I’m not sifting through 20 right now.

What was the consensus?

Based on the first few pages my vote would have been to go with a LB7 - LBZ Duramax. Not a swap, but the complete truck. I’m sure you’re past that option now. A SAS is comparatively easier and less “hodge podge” than a power train swap for a daily use application. Everything else about the duramax and the wrapper it comes in of those years I think solves your problems better than a Cummins in an old Ford or a rebuild of a 7.3
Click to expand...
(A) Because a 97 Ford looks better and has more class than anything from Chevy in the era you mention.

(2) American made mechanical diesel engine > electronic complicated Japanese diesel engine.

(D) Modern(ish) powertrain swaps into old trucks is what we are all about.

Are you new here? :flipoff2:
 
Johnny Longrifle said:
(A) Because a 97 Ford looks better and has more class than anything from Chevy in the era you mention.

(2) American made mechanical diesel engine > electronic complicated Japanese diesel engine.

(D) Modern(ish) powertrain swaps into old trucks is what we are all about.

Are you new here? :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
A - I'll give you the 97 is good looking, but questionable on better looking.

2 - They're not that complicated, really, and power and reliability wise I think they run circles around a 7.3. There's no denying my power statement, that's just straight numbers, and reliability wise ... 7.3 gets too much cock worship for what it is

D - Then he should have LS swapped it :flipoff2:
 
fl0w3n said:
interesting first couple pages but I’m not sifting through 20 right now.

What was the consensus?

Based on the first few pages my vote would have been to go with a LB7 - LBZ Duramax. Not a swap, but the complete truck. I’m sure you’re past that option now. A SAS is comparatively easier and less “hodge podge” than a power train swap for a daily use application. Everything else about the duramax and the wrapper it comes in of those years I think solves your problems better than a Cummins in an old Ford or a rebuild of a 7.3
Click to expand...

I'd own a 6.0 before an lb7 :homer:

I don't know all the gayaneese duramax numbers, but the 04‐07 seem decent. I think they're also severely over-rated, engine is OK, Trans is OK, suspension sucks, chassis is meh, interior is semi shit, exterior is OK. Just nothing great nothing shit.

For the price of one, plus an SAS, I'd go 6.7 Ford all day.

Also, a different truck was never in question. Fixing the current truck was the question. Someone posted a $1500 12v and I grabbed it. It's in, but needs all the detail bits hooked up.
 
6.0's are good, love the sound. I'll own one one day for a project I'm sure. I think they're more un-necessarily complex than a LB7-LBZ Duramax is, and I'd wager the Duramax would out tow, out MPG, and out live it. LB7's are the hidden gem I think, injectors aren't that bad of a job and the new SAC style fixes the original issue with them for good, but not a lot of people probably know that so they still consider them junk and you can find them for a good price.

I'm not sure what 6.7's you're looking at in that price range ha

I just don't understand the interior hate... I've had 6 or 7 of the GMT800 Chevy's and only 1 of the 90's Fords, I'd choose the Chevy interior every time.



visalia.craigslist.org

2004.5 Chevrolet Duramax crewcab - cars & trucks - by owner -...

2004.5 Silverado 2500hd so it has the good engine for that year (LLY). Truck is in great shape for the year and miles but has a blown head gasket. I was driving it every day until that happened. I...
visalia.craigslist.org

modesto.craigslist.org

1996 Ford F250 4x4 Crew Cab Diesel - cars & trucks - by owner -...

Powerstroke 1996 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed 4x4 XLT Package with the 7.3L Powerstroke Engine. Dana 60 Solid Front Axle F350 Leaf Springs, Front and Rear E4OD Transmission has ~150,000 miles on it...
modesto.craigslist.org
 
fl0w3n said:
6.0's are good, love the sound. I'll own one one day for a project I'm sure. I think they're more un-necessarily complex than a LB7-LBZ Duramax is, and I'd wager the Duramax would out tow, out MPG, and out live it. LB7's are the hidden gem I think, injectors aren't that bad of a job and the new SAC style fixes the original issue with them for good, but not a lot of people probably know that so they still consider them junk and you can find them for a good price.

I'm not sure what 6.7's you're looking at in that price range ha

I just don't understand the interior hate... I've had 6 or 7 of the GMT800 Chevy's and only 1 of the 90's Fords, I'd choose the Chevy interior every time.



visalia.craigslist.org

2004.5 Chevrolet Duramax crewcab - cars & trucks - by owner -...

2004.5 Silverado 2500hd so it has the good engine for that year (LLY). Truck is in great shape for the year and miles but has a blown head gasket. I was driving it every day until that happened. I...
visalia.craigslist.org

modesto.craigslist.org

1996 Ford F250 4x4 Crew Cab Diesel - cars & trucks - by owner -...

Powerstroke 1996 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed 4x4 XLT Package with the 7.3L Powerstroke Engine. Dana 60 Solid Front Axle F350 Leaf Springs, Front and Rear E4OD Transmission has ~150,000 miles on it...
modesto.craigslist.org
Click to expand...

That's what everyone says "just needs injectors" the one guy I know who bought an lb7 for reliability got one with about 120k that already had new injectors. Put another 80k on it and it needed another set :homer: Pulled them and found signs of blown HG, pulled heads and found cracked heads :homer::homer::homer:

That was after fixing a few random Trans and tcase issues, despite "muh alleysun"

I don't mind the trucks, I wanted a 1500 for a dd. Ended up with a 2500 burb, which was a pos. They seem to just not hold up well passed 200k unless it's super babied.

What's the plan with buying a 350k mile blown up truck? Spend 12k on a crate engine and still have a worn the fuck out truck or slap head gaskets in and drive a worn the fuck out truck for maybe a few years before they blow again?

It's one thing to dump money into a 350k mile truck you've owned for 10 years, but buying one you know nothing about and doing the same rarely works out.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
That's what everyone says "just needs injectors" the one guy I know who bought an lb7 for reliability got one with about 120k that already had new injectors. Put another 80k on it and it needed another set :homer: Pulled them and found signs of blown HG, pulled heads and found cracked heads :homer::homer::homer:

That was after fixing a few random Trans and tcase issues, despite "muh alleysun"
Click to expand...

That guy has pretty shit luck when it comes to trucks!
 
YotaAtieToo said:
That's what everyone says "just needs injectors" the one guy I know who bought an lb7 for reliability got one with about 120k that already had new injectors. Put another 80k on it and it needed another set :homer: Pulled them and found signs of blown HG, pulled heads and found cracked heads :homer::homer::homer:

That was after fixing a few random Trans and tcase issues, despite "muh alleysun"

I don't mind the trucks, I wanted a 1500 for a dd. Ended up with a 2500 burb, which was a pos. They seem to just not hold up well passed 200k unless it's super babied.

What's the plan with buying a 350k mile blown up truck? Spend 12k on a crate engine and still have a worn the fuck out truck or slap head gaskets in and drive a worn the fuck out truck for maybe a few years before they blow again?

It's one thing to dump money into a 350k mile truck you've owned for 10 years, but buying one you know nothing about and doing the same rarely works out.
Click to expand...
It’s 20 pages, I figured I’m not detracting from the thread thatttt much by derailing.

I did buy one LB7 at 350k, but wound up having too many issues with the ZF6 back to back and sold it for a little loss. The motor was fine after I threw the rite parts at it.

I would trust a 300K+ Duramax if it checked out that it wasn’t obviously over abused. Basic dingle ball rebuild for a couple grand and throw another 300k on it. I’ve not personally had one past 350k but have a friend with one probably past 500k now on a basic garage rebuild that he bought blown up around 300k I think. Also several “internet friends” with similar stories from when I hung out on the dmax forums.

All I’m sayin is maybe don’t knock it till you try it :flipoff2:

Back to regularly scheduled Ford talk. Thread needs more Fummins pics :flipoff2:
 
Last edited:
Wilson said:
That guy has pretty shit luck when it comes to trucks!
Click to expand...

Make your own luck! :flipoff2:

You used trucks fairly hard and found the weak points.


fl0w3n said:
It’s 20 pages, I figured I’m not detracting from the thread thatttt much by derailing.

I did buy one LB7 at 350k, but wound up having too many issues with the ZF6 back to back and sold it for a little loss. The motor was fine after I threw the rite parts at it.

I would trust a 300K+ Duramax if it checked out that it wasn’t obviously over abused. Basic dingle ball rebuild for a couple grand and throw another 300k on it. I’ve not personally had one past 350k but have a friend with one probably past 500k now on a basic garage rebuild that he bought blown up around 300k I think. Also several “internet friends” with similar stories from when I hung out on the dmax forums.

All I’m sayin is maybe don’t knock it till you try it :flipoff2:

Back to regularly scheduled Ford talk. Thread needs more Fummins pics :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

Like I said, I don't think they're bad trucks, I just think they are overrated and in turn overpriced.

I'm just not going to buy another diesel with this kind of mileage, unless I knew the guy who had it for the last 5 or so years. My boss likes chevy's and judging by how worn the 12, 15 and 18 we have are, with far far less than 300k, I can't see buying one with super high miles.
 
Back in the "shop" :laughing:

Goal is test drive by 6/11

20230430_171804.jpg
 
Took a bit of time to at least remember where I was at.

First thing was I'm still irritated at those engine mounts being so close to the ps pump. Even the hard 90 on the stock ford line won't fit. I ordered a banjo bolt to 6jic to see if that will fit. If not it's either build new engine mounts or get rid of the vacuum pump.

Still going around and around on the alternator.

Found this bracket

www.ssor.biz

GM to Cummins 1 Wire Alternator Mount

GM to Cummins 1 wire alternator mount
www.ssor.biz www.ssor.biz


But I'm having a hard time seeing how it works with the stock tensioner.

Ordered the dcs 12v with a common rail turbo in a 6.0 ford intercooler pipes. Since I have a a 12v with a common rail turbo and a 6.0 intercooler. Hopefully it's close enough to work.
 
yeah their pic is horrible! does it let you use an ac compressor?
 
2big bronco said:
Ill bet throwing in a new 7.3 seems like it would have been a decent option a year ago right about now. :lmao:
Click to expand...

I was fine with buying a new long block, the problem was I needed another $5k in other parts to be happy with it and make the same power as I'm at with the 12v. I was overdue for injectors, up pipes, turbo, ect. Not that I needed to, but seemed dumb to put 350k mile parts back onto a new engine.

Plus I said if it failed because of a hole in the block I was swapping to a 12v, and I can't go back on my word :laughing::flipoff2:
 
This shit just keeps going. I don't know how these conversion companies stay in business.

I needed a throttle cable. Google said a stock 12v cable will work with a slight mod to the firewall. Also found one from cpp that days it drops in. Same price.

Tried to put in in just now and it's not even close. too long and has a square hole, where the stock one has a round hole. :homer:
 
Response from cpp:

You either need to fill in the hole with weld and drill a new hole or weld a washer over the hole for the cable to click into. Is that what you mean?
Click to expand...

Makes sense, buy a cable specifically for a conversion and have to completely modify everything to make it work.:homer:
 
Am I on Crack, or is this straight up false advertising?

cppdiesel.com

CPP THROTTLE CABLE-(FORD TRUCKS WITH 94-98 CUMMINS 12V ENGINE)

FREE SHIPPING ON ORDERS OVER $150 SHOP NOW FOR CUMMINS CONVERSION THROTTLE CABLE
cppdiesel.com cppdiesel.com

Screenshot_20230511_204024_Gmail.jpg
Screenshot_20230511_204033_Gmail.jpg


Wtf?

How do you sell a part as a conversion part, when it doesn't actually work at all? :lmao:

I'm going to start selling parts to swap am ls into something. They'll just be stock ls parts that "you just have to, cut weld, and completely change" but it's all we got :homer:
 
Ridiculous but not surprising, nothing surprises me anymore
 
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