Anyone regret doing a Cummins swap?

[Johnny Longrifle]

No, I'm not talking about the brass double ended things. I'm talking about a proper crimped hydraulic hose fitting like you would find anywhere in the hydraulic world, crimped to a 2 wire -6 hose. The other end is a steel compression ferrule that goes to your OE end at the pump/gear/hydro boost.

Looks like this. I will spoon feed you the Gates number when I get back to work on Monday. This particular fitting is not in my Fummins, but on my full hydro Jeep cuz it was easier to get a pic of. Fun fact, they both run the same fittings and the same Saginaw pump.

When it comes to the sound proofing....sound is vibration. Dampen the vibration and you will quiet the noise. If you choose to go with MVL, more power to ya. I was simply sharing my experience with using dynamat and my satisfaction with it. It made a world of difference in my truck when I applied it inside the doors.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

What's the point of running cobbled together hydraulic lines instead of just getting the adapters?

Like I said, I'm about $20 into adapters and then I can get a new line for $15-30. Not sure why that seems like it's over thought. It's literally how every aftermarket steering company does it.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Anyone know off hand if I should be getting a gas ford cruise control throttle cable assembly? Or do I just need the throttle pedal?

 

[Projectjunkie]

Anyone know off hand if I should be getting a gas ford cruise control throttle cable assembly? Or do I just need the throttle pedal?

On my 88 I used a gas pedal, cable, and " piece of the arm cut off 460 throttle body" I never hooked up or installed cruise control

If you don't a pull a part nearby
If you figure out what you need, and it fits in a flat rate box, and you can wait a week before I get to a post office... I've got a handful of donor trucks

 

[YotaAtieToo]

On my 88 I used a gas pedal, cable, and " piece of the arm cut off 460 throttle body" I never hooked up or installed cruise control

If you don't a pull a part nearby
If you figure out what you need, and it fits in a flat rate box, and you can wait a week before I get to a post office... I've got a handful of donor trucks

I appreciate that.

I'm at the JY now. I pulled a vacuum cruise off a ~91, but now I'm looking at a 94 with an electronic one and I think that's what I need.

 

[72Pstroke]

I think you are correct. Mine is electronic with no vacuum chamber.
I thought DCS had part numbers for the cruise unit on their website, but I am not seeing them.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I think you are correct. Mine is electronic with no vacuum chamber.
I thought DCS had part numbers for the cruise unit on their website, but I am not seeing them.

I bought the swap helper cruise module, but was drawing a blank on how it worked.

Google wasn't much help either.

I ended up grabbing the pedal and cable on a ~91 with a 300. The cable looked shorter and I'm thinking it will work better. I grabbed the module off of a 94 and the throttle cable brackets off both. Should be able to make something work. The only thing I'm not sure sure about is if there was a change in the later obs trucks. I read something saying the 96+ is the same as a super duty. If that's the case, I'll just have to go back. They had at least 3 or 4 gas SD trucks.



I finally got my driveshaft back from being shortened.... $260 I sure miss being 5 Mins from high angle. Iirc, $80 got you a shortened driveshaft, balanced, painted and greased U joints.

 

[CDA 455 II]

I sure miss being 5 Mins from high angle. Iirc, $80 got you a shortened driveshaft, balanced, painted and greased U joints.

When I first moved up here from San Diego in '99 I immediately started missing the 24HR (fill in the blank) stores.
Namely auto parts and home improvement.

It was nice to get parts/tools/supplies I needed for projects at 0245HRS in the morning!

 

[YotaAtieToo]

And this is why I regret every time I have someone else work on my shit

Both the 12v manifold and the CR turbo are threaded for studs. When I put this turbo on my first gen, it seemed really fucking obvious that just drilling the turbo out would be retarded. So I ran studs on the 2 manifold holes closest to the block, drilled the other 2 out and ran studs upwards on the outside.

These retards somehow fished a bolt into this crevasse and since they drilled the turbo out, I can't put studs in.

Good news is that I got this back in. Just had to drop the trans xmember, lower the trans, then take off the starter and turbo to drill one rivit

 

[YotaAtieToo]

When I first moved up here from San Diego in '99 I immediately started missing the 24HR (fill in the blank) stores.
Namely auto parts and home improvement.

It was nice to get parts/tools/supplies I needed for projects at 0245HRS in the morning!

Sand Diego had 24 hour auto parts and hardware store in the 90s?

We had one 24 hour gas station within
about 45 Mins from me in paradise. Nothing else I'm aware of all the way to Sacramento.

Little bonners ferry has a 24 hour grocery store that has a pretty damn good hardware isle. Milwaukee holesaws and sawzall blade, lots of spray paint, and decent selection of random tools and other stuff.

 

[CDA 455 II]

Sand Diego had 24 hour auto parts and hardware store in the 90s?

We had one 24 hour gas station within
about 45 Mins from me in paradise. Nothing else I'm aware of all the way to Sacramento.

Little bonners ferry has a 24 hour grocery store that has a pretty damn good hardware isle. Milwaukee holesaws and sawzall blade, lots of spray paint, and decent selection of random tools and other stuff.

Yep!

There was an auto parts store in Clairmont (Balboa Ave near Genesee Ave) and a Home Depot on Sports Arena Blvd that were 24HRS.

Most gas stations were 24HRS
7/11 and Circle K = 24HRS
Denny's = 24HRS
Many donut shops = 24HRS
Mexican food joints = 21 to 24HRS
WINCO = 24HRS

 

[YotaAtieToo]

So I guess I'll just keep using this place for notes


Making a list of shit to do. I have to add stuff I've already done to make it look like I've accomplished shit

Order a ton of parts

Remove front clip

Remove engine and trans

Sell 7.3 and associated parts

Clean and apply sound deadening to fire wall/tunnel

Pull and clean donor engine

Haul donor truck to scrap

Install engine and trans

Install heat shield

Plumbing:
Fuel lines
Coolant
-mount degas bottle?
Exhaust
- tap manifold for egt probe (should have done this before it was mounted )
- fit downpipe (received dcs downpipe kit and it looks like it it will work perfect. Just need to do some fine fitment and make a ~2' piece with about a 10* bend)
Charge tubes
-mount air filter
- 1/2x1/8npt adapter for boost guage
AC
- mount ac relocation bracket and pump
- hook up lines
- need to source new o rings
CCV
Vaccum lines

Power steering
- need 16mm x 6 jic 90 and 11/16 x 6 jic adapters
- tap pump fitting to 3/8 npt
- have hose made

Drive shafts
- pick up rear from shop
- install shafts
- check front length (was told it has enough slip to work, it "works" but I'm not happy with it, need to retube or find a longer one)

Trans crossmember and skid
- drill holes and install

Shifter relocation kit
- install tcase shifter relocation bracket
- install trans tunnel plate & trans shifter

Clean up excess wiring
- figure out alternator (has semi-hacked on 1 wire currently)

Install throttle pedal and cable
- get Cable, pedal and cruise from gas truck
- adapt cable to 12v
- install cruise control adapter

Install fuel cut off

Install sensor adapters and sensors
- boost
- oil pressure
- egt
- fuel pressure
- temp


Install tach adapter

Hook up grid heater to glow plug relay?

Reassemble front clip

Roal coal

Proffit?

Still picking away. Working on tap manifold and ps fitting. Then install throttle pedal and cable today.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Spent hours getting the pipe to jic fitting to sit as flush as possible. Cut the tap down, cut the fitting down.

Had to get one last 1/4 turn to index the 90 right and it got easy

 

[aczlan]

Spent hours getting the pipe to jic fitting to sit as flush as possible. Cut the tap down, cut the fitting down.

Had to get one last 1/4 turn to index the 90 right and it got easy

Confused here, you say NPT to JIC and your first pictures appear to be NPT to JIC, but then your last two pictures appear to be ORB to JIC.

Did I miss something?
Edit: Or is that a ORB to NPT adapter/reducer that the shortened NPT to JIC elbow screws into and the adapter broke?

Aaron Z

 

[Provience]

Sand Diego had 24 hour auto parts and hardware store in the 90s?

We had one 24 hour gas station within
about 45 Mins from me in paradise. Nothing else I'm aware of all the way to Sacramento.

Little bonners ferry has a 24 hour grocery store that has a pretty damn good hardware isle. Milwaukee holesaws and sawzall blade, lots of spray paint, and decent selection of random tools and other stuff.

Kragen used to be 24 hour. And Roseville Toyota parts used to be open until midnight

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Confused here, you say NPT to JIC and your first pictures appear to be NPT to JIC, but then your last two pictures appear to be ORB to JIC.

Did I miss something?
Edit: Or is that a ORB to NPT adapter/reducer that the shortened NPT to JIC elbow screws into and the adapter broke?

Aaron Z

I tapped the stock orb fitting to 3/8 npt. Was actually working perfectly until I over tightened it

I probably could have gotten the 1/4 turn if I had held the stock adapter with a wrench to only tighten the pipe threads.

 

[aczlan]

I tapped the stock orb fitting to 3/8 npt. Was actually working perfectly until I over tightened it

I probably could have gotten the 1/4 turn if I had held the stock adapter with a wrench to only tighten the pipe threads.

Ah, so what you really needed was a ORB-8M to a JIC-6M elbow with the nut that you could rotate to lock the angle you wanted the elbow to sit at.
Something sort of like this:

Aaron Z

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Ah, so what you really needed was a ORB-8M to a JIC-6M elbow with the nut that you could rotate to lock the angle you wanted the elbow to sit at.
Something sort of like this

The fitting that broke isnt male orb. It's the wierd fitting that actually threads into the ham can pump. It had 16mm orb or some thing female that I tapped to 3/8 npt.

 

[aczlan]

The fitting that broke isnt male orb. It's the wierd fitting that actually threads into the ham can pump. It had 16mm orb or some thing female that I tapped to 3/8 npt.

Ah, so it was a 16-1.5 oring like the Russell 648060 adapter has. That is a weird fitting, but it probbaly saved $0.05 per vehicle somehow...

Aaron Z

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Ah, so it was a 16-1.5 oring like the Russell 648060 adapter has. That is a weird fitting, but it probbaly saved $0.05 per vehicle somehow...

Aaron Z

Yes, the problem was that I needed a 90 and only had a 1" gap between it and the motor mount.

 

[[486]]

Yes, the problem was that I needed a 90 and only had a 1" gap between it and the motor mount.

now it is time to take your OE hose with the square block 90 on it, cut the hose end off and weld your JIC bung onto it

 

[YotaAtieToo]

now it is time to take your OE hose with the square block 90 on it, cut the hose end off and weld your JIC bung onto it

The oe hose was for the Ford not the Cummins.

 

[[486]]

The oe hose was for the Ford not the Cummins.

aren't they the same stupid M16x1.5 banjo bolt thread with the teflon sealing washer?

 

[YotaAtieToo]

aren't they the same stupid M16x1.5 banjo bolt thread with the teflon sealing washer?

Well that's what I was trying to ask in the other thread. The thread size was the same, but I really didn't think the little Teflon washer was what sealed it.

If that's the case, my stick line would have worked

 

[[486]]

well the teflon washer is what seals the outer nut to the pump's fitting
the nut is sealed to the steel line with an o-ring that is contained within and is not replaceable because there's a sorta kinda bubble flare put on the end of the steel line

 

[Three]

Put a 12valve in my 98 Chevy about a year ago. Pretty quickly. And I wish I would have sound proofed a little. Be interested to hear what you think.
Love the sound 99% of the time. But wish it was less when my wife and kids are with me.

I deleted the vacuum pump and ran the stock Chevy hydro boost lines for the reasons you’ve mentioned. “Side of the road at midnight” is what always crosses my mind when using one-off parts.

 

[AlxJ64]

For the fitting issue... is there enough room to get some threads cut back in it again to go back to an ORB / banjo stud combo? It would be a weird fitting but a low profile swivel. Unless you can mill the surface flat enough to use some copper washers and a banjo bolt. There are plenty of metric bore banjo bolts with JIC end fittings on them. Thats what I used for the calipers on my WC project.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

For the fitting issue... is there enough room to get some threads cut back in it again to go back to an ORB / banjo stud combo? It would be a weird fitting but a low profile swivel. Unless you can mill the surface flat enough to use some copper washers and a banjo bolt. There are plenty of metric bore banjo bolts with JIC end fittings on them. Thats what I used for the calipers on my WC project.

I had thought about that also.

It's 1" between the pump and the mount. So even that would be tight.

 

[Chkn]

Updates?

 

[V30crewcab]

time to grind the bracket and use a stock hose.