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Anyone regret doing a Cummins swap?

Plan is for the guy to run it for a few minutes and recheck valve lash. Then I'll take it home.
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Did you spray the sound deadening on the firewall?
 
Projectjunkie said:
It's a Ppump cummins with a manual tranny, what issues could it have? :homer:
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Stubpid shit like accessory belt issues, rad hoses, wiring, ect.

I'm hoping that any issues I have will just be nuisance things and not stuff that actually leaves me stranded. Which is one thing the 7.3 never did to me.
 
I think that this is a common enough swap that you may have a few minor issues in the beginning working out the bugs but once you have it ironed out you will be golden.

For what it’s worth I have a 6.2 LS in my H3 which isn’t factory and it isn’t setup standalone so it has every wire you can imagine plus some for factory integration and I’ve put over 30k miles on it and I haven’t been stranded due to weird engine swap issues. I’ve been on the side of the road due to a failing 4L60E though but that’s a different scenario :laughing:

So with all that said, I don’t know shit about 5.9s other then I hear they can run off of 1 wire and you have a manual trans. That sounds about as bulletproof as it gets.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Stubpid shit like accessory belt issues, rad hoses, wiring, ect.

I'm hoping that any issues I have will just be nuisance things and not stuff that actually leaves me stranded. Which is one thing the 7.3 never did to me.
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Wiring is minimal, and even then, won't leave you stranded, flip your whole battery cable set over for the driver side dodge starter, put the ford sending units in bushings in the cummins. On belt issues, either run the dodge accessories and rock out, or buy the aftermarket stuff, which isn't cheap, but should be well sorted and have reviews/ online feedback. I ran a 1st Gen upper house and a 2nd generation lower hose on a 1st generation rad, went together like it was made for it.

I never got the tach working in mine, somebody makes a kit tho
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Man I don't know, I need to get it going.

I still have this fear of it having constant issues, but who knows.
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With this swap having been done before you, you shouldn’t have any surprises. Once it’s up n running with no leaks you should be many years before anything troublesome pops up again. This is a dream combo of mine and I’m still watching.
 
Projectjunkie said:
Wiring is minimal, and even then, won't leave you stranded, flip your whole battery cable set over for the driver side dodge starter, put the ford sending units in bushings in the cummins. On belt issues, either run the dodge accessories and rock out, or buy the aftermarket stuff, which isn't cheap, but should be well sorted and have reviews/ online feedback. I ran a 1st Gen upper house and a 2nd generation lower hose on a 1st generation rad, went together like it was made for it.

I never got the tach working in mine, somebody makes a kit tho
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Starter is on the same side because zf5.

I went with the carrick customs ac mount to keep the Ford pump and lines.

You're right on the sensor bushings

Not sure what to do on rad hoses. I'd like to keep the 7.3 rad, but I'm also not a fan of the degas bottle, especially since that's where the air filter wants to live. Plus the inlet is wrong. I thought about using an idi rad since it swaps inlet and outlet, but then I think the out let is wrong :laughing:

Funny enough, the 2nd gen dodge rad has the inlet on the opposite side on the Cummins :homer: and my ac mount is in the way for a stock dodge Rad hose.

JR4X said:
With this swap having been done before you, you shouldn’t have any surprises. Once it’s up n running with no leaks you should be many years before anything troublesome pops up again. This is a dream combo of mine and I’m still watching.
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This is exactly why I was good with doing it.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Starter is on the same side because zf5.

I went with the carrick customs ac mount to keep the Ford pump and lines.

You're right on the sensor bushings

Not sure what to do on rad hoses. I'd like to keep the 7.3 rad, but I'm also not a fan of the degas bottle, especially since that's where the air filter wants to live. Plus the inlet is wrong. I thought about using an idi rad since it swaps inlet and outlet, but then I think the out let is wrong :laughing:

Funny enough, the 2nd gen dodge rad has the inlet on the opposite side on the Cummins :homer: and my ac mount is in the way for a stock dodge Rad hose.



This is exactly why I was good with doing it.
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There's more than one way to skin a cat, and I've seen clean builds using a 7.3 radiator and a guy spend some time fabbing up clean piping to do so..... it wasn't something I could do good/ fast/ cheap

My build used a gasser 92-96 front clip and core support, I robbed the 2nd battery tray from the 88 IDI front clip I pulled off, but didn't feel the radiator was worth the effort

The 2nd Gen radiator is short and wide, not an easy fit in the ford grille, was $225 at the parts store versus $450 for the 7.3

Your cooling stack needs to work together, and imo the 6.0 IC, the OBS ford condenser and the 92-93 dodge radiator was the best fit

I did have to make a fan shroud from tin to get 40deg ac in the 115deg desert. Which was very fucking pimp in my limo tinted crew cab:smokin:




I over think things and get stuck in analysis paralysis, but when you've poured over all the specs and dimensions for weeks, the shit goes together like Legos...
 
So I was eyeballing the path for the down pipe and this kinda looks like it should work.

Exhaust Down Pipe- 4 3/8" flange and complete down pipe

This exhaust down pipe is a simple solution to achieve a complete turbo back 4" exhaust. Orientation varies by application so you will need to weld the flange onto the down pipe. Utilizes the factory V-Clamp from the OEM Turbo. Designed to work with
www.dieselconversion.com www.dieselconversion.com

I'm thinking if it's close, I can mod it a little. If it's not, I'll just order some mandrel bends.
 
So I guess I'll just keep using this place for notes


Making a list of shit to do. I have to add stuff I've already done to make it look like I've accomplished shit :flipoff2:

Order a ton of parts

Remove front clip

Remove engine and trans

Sell 7.3 and associated parts

Clean and apply sound deadening to fire wall/tunnel

Pull and clean donor engine

Haul donor truck to scrap

Install engine and trans

Install heat shield

Plumbing:
Fuel lines
Coolant
-mount degas bottle?
Exhaust
- tap manifold for egt probe (should have done this before it was mounted :homer:)
- fit downpipe (received dcs downpipe kit and it looks like it it will work perfect. Just need to do some fine fitment and make a ~2' piece with about a 10* bend)
Charge tubes
-mount air filter
- 1/2x1/8npt adapter for boost guage
AC
- mount ac relocation bracket and pump
- hook up lines
- need to source new o rings
CCV
Vaccum lines

Power steering
- need 16mm x 6 jic 90 and 11/16 x 6 jic adapters
- tap pump fitting to 3/8 npt
- have hose made

Drive shafts
- pick up rear from shop :homer:
- install shafts
- check front length (was told it has enough slip to work, it "works" but I'm not happy with it, need to retube or find a longer one)

Trans crossmember and skid
- drill holes and install

Shifter relocation kit
- install tcase shifter relocation bracket
- install trans tunnel plate & trans shifter

Clean up excess wiring
- figure out alternator (has semi-hacked on 1 wire currently)

Install throttle pedal and cable
- get Cable, pedal and cruise from gas truck
- adapt cable to 12v
- install cruise control adapter

Install fuel cut off

Install sensor adapters and sensors
- boost
- oil pressure
- egt
- fuel pressure
- temp


Install tach adapter

Hook up grid heater to glow plug relay?

Reassemble front clip

Roal coal

Proffit? :flipoff2:
 
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So this is the type of stuff that makes me nervous. This thing snaps and I'm stranded :homer:

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It's my own fault for buying the custom bracket to use the Ford ac pump. I'll probably just measure for a belt that bypasses this idler and the ac, then worst case I can get off the side of the road.

I'm trying to figure out the power steering line. I added F-superduty hydroboost, so my lines are already a little different.

The pump looks like a 16mm o ring boss, the Ford hydroboost line is also 16mm and will thread in, but I'm not sure it will seal correctly. I don't think the little delrin washer is meant to be the seal?

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Google shows some guys having thier superduty line screw right in. So I think I'm going to try taking what I got to the parts store.


This is the hydroboost side which is the correct fitting for the pump.

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TrailTamer said:
I’d get one of those and be done.

Alternator Internal Regulator Conversion Kit for Dodge Cummins 89-2002 Denso Amazon.com: Alternator Internal Regulator Conversion Kit for Dodge Cummins 89-2002 Denso : Automotive
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I don't have a factory alternator anyway. I'd rather just make a common 1 wire (what I meant earlier) work. My experience with the external regulator on my 1st gen cummins was garbage.
TrailTamer said:
Don’t.

There’s plugs on the plenum you can use.
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Fair enough

Probably don't need this?

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There are 1/8 plugs on side, also. Pretty sure the sensor pictured is for pcm, purely for to determine it’s cold enough enough to turn on the heater grid.
 
Parts store was a bust. The superduty line uses the same style as the obs power steering pump on both sides.

I guess I was wrong about what I need, it's not o ring boss, it's inverted flare.So I need a line with 16mm inverted flare on both ends. Shouldn't be too crazy, I'm sure something came with it, just finding the application.

Or I did find a nice 16mm IF x 6jic 90* on google and I actually have a straight adapter in my stash.
 
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