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Anyone regret doing a Cummins swap?

Dropped it at the shop today. I guess the 12v head is at the machine shop. He's thinking the engine will be ready next week.

First time it's ever been on a trailer in 10 years

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2big bronco said:
Howd the 150 tow it? About 11k?
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More, had to be close to 13k (5k trailer 8k truck). It does great. Obviously I wouldn't want to do that all the time with it, but it's not a struggle at all. There's a grade here coming up from the bridge. 35 mph on the bridge, then 45, then 55 at the top, it pulled it at 3k rpm and accelerated to all the speed limits.

I also pulled the 12 valve donor about 250 miles at 65. It stayed in 5th most of the time at like 2200 rpm. Wasn't bouncy or anything. Air bags would be nice just to keep the ass end level.
 
You are building what I consider to be the perfect truck.

I forgot as it has been a while since I followed this thread but ZF5, right?
 
Really best part of the 05+ stuff is the coil suspension which could be swapped onto your OBS without issue. The ZF6 is nice too but probably not worth the difference with yours already being 5spd truck, had yours been an auto then maybe worth swapping both at same time.
 
350TacoZilla said:
Really best part of the 05+ stuff is the coil suspension which could be swapped onto your OBS without issue. The ZF6 is nice too but probably not worth the difference with yours already being 5spd truck, had yours been an auto then maybe worth swapping both at same time.
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Quieter cab, stiffer frame, more modern interior. Cab that was used up until 2016, so upgrades like mirrors, are super easy. The obs mirrors are absolutely terrible and upgrades are not a bolt on affair.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Quieter cab, stiffer frame, more modern interior. Cab that was used up until 2016, so upgrades like mirrors, are super easy. The obs mirrors are absolutely terrible and upgrades are not a bolt on affair.
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I agree with all of that except the mirrors. The OBS mirrors are fine unless you get the stupid car style ones which 99.99% of 3/4=ton and larger trucks didn't get.
 
arse_sidewards said:
I agree with all of that except the mirrors. The OBS mirrors are fine unless you get the stupid car style ones which 99.99% of 3/4=ton and larger trucks didn't get.
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The stock ones on the ~1x1/4 metal frame suck, they vibrate and with a camper you can't see anything. I tried adding triangle frame type mirror deal like square body chevy. But attached it to the stock mount, it sticks out more, but vibrates even worse.

Once you've towed or even driven with a 08+ superduty, you'll have every other mirror.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
The stock ones on the ~1x1/4 metal frame suck, they vibrate and with a camper you can't see anything. I tried adding triangle frame type mirror deal like square body chevy. But attached it to the stock mount, it sticks out more, but vibrates even worse.

Once you've towed or even driven with a 08+ superduty, you'll have every other mirror.
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IDK, I never had vibration with mine even when the truck itself shook like mad.

The Aerostar uses the same mirrors and is fine tool

I've towed with newer Ford mirrors and they're bigger and nicer but there's nothing wrong with the 90s ones.
 
arse_sidewards said:
IDK, I never had vibration with mine even when the truck itself shook like mad.

The Aerostar uses the same mirrors and is fine tool

I've towed with newer Ford mirrors and they're bigger and nicer but there's nothing wrong with the 90s ones.
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Then you never towed a full width enclosed, travel trailer or had a camper in the bed. All I saw was the jacks.
 
Got the drive train pulled today. Did everything myself on the shops 4 post, with a little help from the mechanic in the skid steer. I'm super thankful to have him helping me out so much.

Now that it's out, Im curious what to do with the shielding that's under there? Look like there is some foil shit on the firewall, and then some tin shields above the exhaust to the back of the cab.

Should I tear all of it out? Leave the heat shield? Leave it all?

Or pull it all, spray lizard skin and then reinstall tin shields? Does dynomat have heat shielding properties? The exhaust shouldn't be all that hot being free flowing...

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Oh and I did get to check out my clutch and it's pretty well-worn to justify putting it back in there.

The go to for the 73's if you're not going with a super fancy is Sachs. Supposedly it's what Bellaire and South Bend Reeboks as their lower-end clutches. But on the other hand that's what's in there now and I feel like it wore fairly quickly. Any suggestions that aren't ridiculously expensive?
 
As a former ‘02 7.3 owner who tried a bunch of sound deadening and having been around a few Cummins; I would pull the foil stuff spray the lizard and re-apply the foil if it has any sound deadening properties. Anything and everything that can quiet the interior is a good thing. My ‘07 LBZ Duramax was so much less fatiguing to drive, especially long distance.

Jack
 
locrwln said:
As a former ‘02 7.3 owner who tried a bunch of sound deadening and having been around a few Cummins; I would pull the foil stuff spray the lizard and re-apply the foil if it has any sound deadening properties. Anything and everything that can quiet the interior is a good thing. My ‘07 LBZ Duramax was so much less fatiguing to drive, especially long distance.

Jack
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The foil is already kinda messed up from clearancing for the downpipe. The firewall needs more mods for the Cummins, so I'm thinking the foil will be basically trash at that point.

The good thing heat wise is that I will no long have up pipes and downpipe basically touching the firewall :laughing:
 
locrwln said:
As a former ‘02 7.3 owner who tried a bunch of sound deadening and having been around a few Cummins; I would pull the foil stuff spray the lizard and re-apply the foil if it has any sound deadening properties. Anything and everything that can quiet the interior is a good thing. My ‘07 LBZ Duramax was so much less fatiguing to drive, especially long distance.

Jack
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This
 
as a human that drives many stripped out shitboxes; I would buy a pair of bluetooth earmuffs and use them as my new car radio
 
[486] said:
as a human that drives many stripped out shitboxes; I would buy a pair of bluetooth earmuffs and use them as my new car radio
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:lmao:

I'm usually fine with music loud, windows down at 75 mph. But it sucks when you can't have a conversation with your passenger. :laughing:

Like I said I'm not out for earth shattering results, just "while I'm there"
 
Just to throw my experience in on a couple things mentioned here recently.

Coil swap. I have a 95 F350 4x4. With reverse shackle on factory springs. I also daily drive a 2014 F250 superduty crew cab lariet with 6.7.

They both are at about 175K miles. Right now the 1995 rides better than the 2014. Not sure if the 2014 needs springs or shocks or both or what but it is nothing like it was when it was new. Or maybe that is just as good as it gets. Maybe it is cab mounts, fatigue. But 2014 rattles and squeaks inside and the 95 does not. But I also show the 95 a lot more love.
So I am not in the Coil swap it crowd. I am sure I am not the only one. Biggest advantage of coils is the turning radius.

My 95 has sound proofing. 3 layers on floor and sides. Kilomat type stuff, then gym foam, then Mass loaded vinyl. The top, doors, firewall has kilomat and gym foam. Plus factory interior, carpet, headliner over the top of it. An important step in all of this is weather stripping. I added surgical tubing inside the new weather stripping to keep a firm seal around the doors.
It is as quiet and many times it is quieter than the 2014 except the engine noise. If I can keep the 7.3 rpms down it is as quiet at the 2014.

The biggest advantage to the 2014 is the 6 speed trans. Both trucks put down the same horse power and torque. They both get the same fuel mileage. Just to me the 2014 is a disposable work truck and the 95 is my baby.

It is nicer driving and towing with the 2014 it works great don't get me wrong. but on that note I don't care about it. I don't watch gauges, I don't care if the trans gets hot, or the EGTs are through the roof. I just drive the piss out of it. It is like no stress driving.
 
Tiha said:
Just to throw my experience in on a couple things mentioned here recently.

Coil swap. I have a 95 F350 4x4. With reverse shackle on factory springs. I also daily drive a 2014 F250 superduty crew cab lariet with 6.7.

They both are at about 175K miles. Right now the 1995 rides better than the 2014. Not sure if the 2014 needs springs or shocks or both or what but it is nothing like it was when it was new. Or maybe that is just as good as it gets. Maybe it is cab mounts, fatigue. But 2014 rattles and squeaks inside and the 95 does not. But I also show the 95 a lot more love.
So I am not in the Coil swap it crowd. I am sure I am not the only one. Biggest advantage of coils is the turning radius.

My 95 has sound proofing. 3 layers on floor and sides. Kilomat type stuff, then gym foam, then Mass loaded vinyl. The top, doors, firewall has kilomat and gym foam. Plus factory interior, carpet, headliner over the top of it. An important step in all of this is weather stripping. I added surgical tubing inside the new weather stripping to keep a firm seal around the doors.
It is as quiet and many times it is quieter than the 2014 except the engine noise. If I can keep the 7.3 rpms down it is as quiet at the 2014.

The biggest advantage to the 2014 is the 6 speed trans. Both trucks put down the same horse power and torque. They both get the same fuel mileage. Just to me the 2014 is a disposable work truck and the 95 is my baby.

It is nicer driving and towing with the 2014 it works great don't get me wrong. but on that note I don't care about it. I don't watch gauges, I don't care if the trans gets hot, or the EGTs are through the roof. I just drive the piss out of it. It is like no stress driving.
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My experience with the coil spring trucks has been all over the place. I've been in a bunch of different versions. The 11 F250 rode pretty nice, but also had 2 leaf 1/2t leaf packs. :homer:

The 18 6.2 F250 company truck I had rode like dog shit on choppy stuff. That was with a full steel 100g tank, steel tool box, air comp, full cooler and enough misc shit to pretty much fill the 8' box.

My 97 had all the leafs off a low mile ~03 F350 without a retarded rsk deal. So it basically rides like an 03. On choppy stuff it's softer, but bigger bumps it does wierd shit with the flexy frame :laughing:

I don't blame the oems, they're in a stupid place between ridiculous pay load pissing match and people wanting a cowboy cadillac. I hope the ram factory air bags with lighter leafs catch on as I think that's the only real solution.





I think I decided on boom mat spray on coating basically everywhere I can get to, then Thermo-Tec cool it stick on mat for the fire wall and tunnel. It's the only stick on stuff rated for more than 400* (2k*), unless anyone says it sucks? The boom mat is supposed to be as good or better than the lizard skin depending on where you read. It's the same price per Oz in a can as the gallon of lizard skin, but I don't have to buy an entire gallon or a special spray gun.
 
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YotaAtieToo said:
I think I decided on boom mat spray on coating basically everywhere I can get to, then Thermo-Tec cool it stick on mat for the fire wall and tunnel. It's the only stick on stuff rated for more than 400* (2k*), unless anyone says it sucks? The boom mat is supposed to be as good or better than the lizard skin depending on where you read. It's the same price per Oz in a can as the gallon of lizard skin, but I don't have to buy an entire gallon or a special spray gun.
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dunno.. this review seems to suggest otherwise.
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