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Anyone regret doing a Cummins swap?

I think it’s a good idea to have a belt that bypasses the AC like you mentioned.

As for the PS and Hydroboost lines I got the inverted flare with o ring to AN/JIC adapters. Then finding lines is super common and easy. Napa makes them or hydraulic shops make ‘em.

I did that on the H3 and have been running the same lines for 7 years now. I did the same on the F550. I usually get an extra set made for a spare.

Edit: I think I used something like this

E908604E-A85C-441E-A086-9464FC96D3BE.png
 
What about lines for a 97ish dodge 3500 with hydroboost? Neither of my fummins had hydro,I used a 88 e150 5.8 pressure hose for the ford box
 
06h3 said:
I think it’s a good idea to have a belt that bypasses the AC like you mentioned.

As for the PS and Hydroboost lines I got the inverted flare with o ring to AN/JIC adapters. Then finding lines is super common and easy. Napa makes them or hydraulic shops make ‘em.

I did that on the H3 and have been running the same lines for 7 years now. I did the same on the F550. I usually get an extra set made for a spare.

Edit: I think I used something like this
Click to expand...

Thats my back up plan, I even have that exact fitting in my tool box. I just figured that it would be easy to find something that would work since they're the same.

I will need a hard 90 at the pump either way. I think I found a 90 adapter, but can't find it again :homer::laughing:

Edit: found it..... $60 :eek:

leepowersteering.com

16mm O-Ring to -6 Power Steering 90 Degree Fitting With O-Ring & Nut

16mm O-Ring to -6 90 degree fitting. With 40880-1 nut and o-ring installed.
leepowersteering.com leepowersteering.com

Projectjunkie said:
What about lines for a 97ish dodge 3500 with hydroboost? Neither of my fummins had hydro,I used a 88 e150 5.8 pressure hose for the ford box
Click to expand...

We tried that too, but the fitting at the booster was smaller on the dodge.
 
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if you can’t get 90s on the fitting the shops that make the lines can do 90s, 45s, or straight ends
 
I used a 90's Chevy 3500 w/6.5TD line from the Dodge p/s pump to the Ford hydroboost on my Ex. Had to massage the bends a bit but everything else was money.
 
06h3 said:
if you can’t get 90s on the fitting the shops that make the lines can do 90s, 45s, or straight ends
Click to expand...

Theres no way the standard 90 end would work with the adapter screwed in. I might be able to make a sweep fitting work with some grinding on the motor mount mount. But I think I'd rather buy the 90 adapter.
 
cut the tube off your existing line and tig weld a JIC fitting onto your swivelly fitting

cut the tube as long as you can, there's an o-ring inside the swivel bit that you don't wanna get hot
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Planning on keep it for now. Only thing it runs AFAIK is hvac controls. If there was an easy way to convert to old school slider controls, it think about ditching it.
Click to expand...
Electric cruise control vacuum pump from a Volvo made before they went to drive by wire (1980s to 2006-2007ish? 200, 700, 850, 900, V/S/XC 60/70/80/90)?
Looks like a similar Dorman one is available for Ford/Dodge trucks new for $75ish: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-904-214-Electrical-Vacuum-Select/dp/B001KQF6PC?psc=1

Aaron Z
 
Did your truck not come with the electric vac pump and reservoir? My 04 super duty has a little electric vacuum pump and reservoir just for the hvac controls from the factory.

That's be far easier than packaging the Cummins vacuum pump.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Did your truck not come with the electric vac pump and reservoir? My 04 super duty has a little electric vacuum pump and reservoir just for the hvac controls from the factory.

That's be far easier than packaging the Cummins vacuum pump.
Click to expand...

Obs 7.3 is engine driven vac pump like the 12v

I just can't see spending ~$500 on a gear driven ps pump plus ~$100 on an electric pump, and the associated parts just to get a little clearance. It's annoying that it's as tight as it is, but if I have to, I'll notch the motor mount.

I think I can make it work. It's not that tight.
20220814_085839.jpg
 
Ummm. Where'd you get your motor mounts?


If I had to guess, looking at your motor mounts, I'd they are directly above the cross member, my OBS 2nd gen build put the engine about 4" farther back than yours currently sits. I'd bust out a tape measure and figure out where your fan and cooling stack is gonna sit. Your #6 valve cover should be really tight to the fire wall, after beating it with a 4lb hammer

Mine was an 88 chassis, and my 2nd gen mounts dropped in behind the cross member

Then used a 92 front clip

I think I also used a 1st Gen fan hub for an extra inch of clearance
 
Projectjunkie said:
Ummm. Where'd you get your motor mounts?


If I had to guess, looking at your motor mounts, I'd they are directly above the cross member, my OBS 2nd gen build put the engine about 4" farther back than yours currently sits. I'd bust out a tape measure and figure out where your fan and cooling stack is gonna sit. Your #6 valve cover should be really tight to the fire wall, after beating it with a 4lb hammer

Mine was an 88 chassis, and my 2nd gen mounts dropped in behind the cross member

Then used a 92 front clip

I think I also used a 1st Gen fan hub for an extra inch of clearance
Click to expand...

These guys

OBS Ford Cummins Conversion Parts

I liked them a lot better than these pieces of shit :laughing:

Engine Mounts: 1980-1997 Ford to 1989 - 2002 12 Valve & 24 Valve Cummins

Moves the drivetrain back 2.5". The whole point is to clear the mechanical fan and radiator. If it doesn't, I'll probably come unglued :laughing:

88 firewall is a lot different from the "powerstroke" firewall. They had no plans for a turbo in 88. I know 2 people who 7.3psd swapped brick nose trucks and firewall clearance was a huge issue.

#6 vc is still tight

20220814_131950.jpg
 
Worked on this more today. Seemed like each little task I dove I to, I hit road blocks.

Shifter relocation brackets, no way I could salvage the stock bushings from the little linkage, vatozone had a Dorman 5 pack and only one was my size :homer:

Mount fan, bolts I got were too long, easy fix, but jeez.

Mount oil pressure and coolant temp sensor adapters. Can't find the 7.3 sensors. Don't know if I kept them or not. New ones are cheap, but I guess there is 2 different types off water temp sensors. Need to figure that out. Also, the "kit" dcs sent has the wrong oil sensor adapter. Saw on thier site in fine print "some 97s require different adapter :homer:" also noticed there was a brand new coolant temp sensor in the block, looked on my receipt and $68 for new sensor.......this guy has supposedly done dozens of these swaps, so he should have known. :shaking:

All in, nothing was completed today except bolting the fan bracket on :laughing: oh well its river and :beer: o'clock now:usa:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
These guys

OBS Ford Cummins Conversion Parts

I liked them a lot better than these pieces of shit :laughing:

Engine Mounts: 1980-1997 Ford to 1989 - 2002 12 Valve & 24 Valve Cummins

Moves the drivetrain back 2.5". The whole point is to clear the mechanical fan and radiator. If it doesn't, I'll probably come unglued :laughing:

88 firewall is a lot different from the "powerstroke" firewall. They had no plans for a turbo in 88. I know 2 people who 7.3psd swapped brick nose trucks and firewall clearance was a huge issue.

#6 vc is still tight

20220814_131950.jpg
Click to expand...

Is that the sound deadening spray on the FW? Turn out okay?
 
Projectjunkie said:
Ummm. Where'd you get your motor mounts?


If I had to guess, looking at your motor mounts, I'd they are directly above the cross member, my OBS 2nd gen build put the engine about 4" farther back than yours currently sits. I'd bust out a tape measure and figure out where your fan and cooling stack is gonna sit. Your #6 valve cover should be really tight to the fire wall, after beating it with a 4lb hammer

Mine was an 88 chassis, and my 2nd gen mounts dropped in behind the cross member

Then used a 92 front clip

I think I also used a 1st Gen fan hub for an extra inch of clearance
Click to expand...
they look like 1st gen motor mounts, i through drilled mine and replaced the studs with a bolt like we do to toyota motor mounts

intercooled 1st gens have the shorter fan hub fwiw
 
rockyota83 said:
they look like 1st gen motor mounts, i through drilled mine and replaced the studs with a bolt like we do to toyota motor mounts

intercooled 1st gens have the shorter fan hub fwiw
Click to expand...

They are. Supposed to be the better of the different variations. Good to know on the through bolt :laughing:

The wife helped on sound deadening the tunnel piece, I told her to use up scraps, turned out decent.

20220814_133715.jpg
20220814_133720.jpg
 
I always put a 2ftish square of 2" foam on top of the trans, to help knock down some of the manual trans growl. it helps alot.
 
V30crewcab said:
I always put a 2ftish square of 2" foam on top of the trans, to help knock down some of the manual trans growl. it helps alot.
Click to expand...

Not a bad idea.

The carpet is pretty fucked up. So the plan is to buy a whole new vinal floor liner. When I do that, I plan to add a layer of sound deadening inside.
 
For your PS pressure hoses...use the OE steel ends at the pump, booster, gear. Then go to NAPA and have them make hydraulic hoses to your length with -6 compression fittings to join everything together. Your are making the plumbing way too difficult.

Inside the cab...pull the interior pieces out and install Dynamat on the floor, roof, inside the doors, and wherever you can reach. Shits expensive, but you'll thank me later.
 
Johnny Longrifle said:
For your PS pressure hoses...use the OE steel ends at the pump, booster, gear. Then go to NAPA and have them make hydraulic hoses to your length with -6 compression fittings to join everything together. Your are making the plumbing way too difficult.

Inside the cab...pull the interior pieces out and install Dynamat on the floor, roof, inside the doors, and wherever you can reach. Shits expensive, but you'll thank me later.
Click to expand...

:laughing:

Compression fittings on a hydraulic hose is the most ghetto shit I've seen pushed as normal with these type of conversions. This pump is my brakes and steering. Every tried to stop and steer a truck grossing 20k+ lbs with no power assist? :homer: besides, it's not complicated, for ~$20 I converted to the most common hydraulic end anywhere. I'll be able to pull a hose off the crawler if I have to.

Also, dynamat is more for vibration, not sound. It will help, but is mostly a waste of money vs using the correct product, which is MVL.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Compression fittings on a hydraulic hose is the most ghetto shit I've seen pushed as normal with these type of conversions.
Click to expand...

not all compression fittings are the brass ones, they also make ones that seal with a captive o-ring and the compression tapered wedge thing is just to hold the tube in place

and you don't put them on the hose part, you put them on the steel line :flipoff2:
 
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[486] said:
not all compression fittings are the brass ones, they also make ones that seal with a captive o-ring and the compression tapered wedge thing is just to hold the tube in place

and you don't put them on the hose part, you put them on the steel line :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

He's talking a double brass barb with hose clamps right? :homer::flipoff2:

Yes I know, would be a good thing to have in the trail bag. I just don't see the need to scab shit together. I actually bet the way he described would cost more than what I'm doing.
 
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