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Another 1st gem - Kernel MusTURD

so the boat side trapping all the heat, i mean thats obvious , maybe try holes like 1 or 2 inches diameter on the top half to get some heat to leave. maybe it will work or maybe it wont.

do doors off help?

Not the boat sides, but it had a big belly pan that I'm sure isn't helping.

Probably need heat shields and/or dynamat if you can’t move air or create an air gap.

Heat shield yes, it has dyno mat on the inside, doesn't seem to help, I think it would melt if it was on the bottom side of the floor.
one thing i did to my old Toyota exhaust that ran under drivers seat is welded a couple 1/4 bolts to the top of the exhaust pipe that went under the floor, then bolted a piece of metal to that to create said heat shield.
fuck i just remembered all the shit i did. hahahahaa
and this guy

Thats not a bad idea, just mount it straight to the exhaust itself.

Also, yes the muffler needs to move. Possibly behind the cab and tcase, there is some room there.
 
We just got back to the air bnb. Kernel got a work out today! :laughing:

Hit a few decent trails, then went out looking for some fun stuff for the kids. Ended up getting fucked by OnX (again :mad3:) and driving for motherfuckingever out in the desert. Ended up cracking the tcase crossmember, but was an easy fix.

All in, it did well and we saw some cool stuff. But spent a little too much time getting beat up. :laughing:

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Not the boat sides, but it had a big belly pan that I'm sure isn't helping.



Heat shield yes, it has dyno mat on the inside, doesn't seem to help, I think it would melt if it was on the bottom side of the floor.


Thats not a bad idea, just mount it straight to the exhaust itself.

Also, yes the muffler needs to move. Possibly behind the cab and tcase, there is some room there.
I’ve used air bake pans as shields
 
Not the boat sides, but it had a big belly pan that I'm sure isn't helping.



Heat shield yes, it has dyno mat on the inside, doesn't seem to help, I think it would melt if it was on the bottom side of the floor.


Thats not a bad idea, just mount it straight to the exhaust itself.

Also, yes the muffler needs to move. Possibly behind the cab and tcase, there is some room there.
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i just welded these two bolts to the top of pipe... then bolted to pipe
 
I asked her if I could back out, I didn't hear her say anything and I backed up a little too far, the wieght transferred enough that I couldn't move forward or back without it going. I tried 2wd burn, to get the rear to level out, but it was too grippy.

Oh well, nothing was harmed :grinpimp:
 
Clearly you haven't seen my thread :flipoff2:

Killmat didn't help with heat at all for me, I used some heat shielding on the bottom side and then heat shield products stealth shield on the top side and that works great
oh ya you can see some of the heat shielding stuff i put on the bottom side of the floor to help with the whole shoe melting thing

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after i got all the bed liner removed i went back to the front and added some stealth heat shield material to the driver side floor (exhaust runs under there) and then went for maximum insulation on the shifter to keep the hot air from blowing up

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I was worried about these bolts welded to the diff for a ubolt and rightly so. Somehow managed to break 1 and not yardsale the whole axle out of it :laughing:

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Sweet pics. Sand Hollow looks like a lot of fun. How'd you like wheeling the dual trans setup? Actually cool, super annoying, or what? I always though those setups were interesting lol
 
Sweet pics. Sand Hollow looks like a lot of fun. How'd you like wheeling the dual trans setup? Actually cool, super annoying, or what? I always though those setups were interesting lol

It's actually fucking sweet. On road, tcase is in high, offroad(except really open, graded fire roads), tcase is in low. Other than that, I can shift up or down to any speed. 1st/1st (140:1) was low enough for almost everything. But occasionally double reverse (187:1) was nice, but really only because it wanted to die on steep stuff.

I'm still nervous about it holding up, but after sand hollow, I have more faith. I still want to get some lower gearing down stream of the rear trans though. Not sure which way I want to go about it.
 
Your deer eaten Arborvitaes made me laugh.

Get those big tires on this and take it snow wheeling!

I don't think it's deer, our pyrenees gets pissed when they even get close to the fence. :laughing: they need to come out, ugliest bushes ever.

Ya, that's the plan, need to seal it up a bit obviously.

Kid at my work is buying a double cab 1st gen tacoma today and wants these axles, wheels and tires bad for it. That should fund the misc parts for the D60s nicely and the tracks would fund some nice tires and wheels.
 
Didn't want to slot the front hole out, but there's no way the bolt would have came out otherwise. I should have moved it forward and made a new plate, but didn't want to for an axle I'm planning to sell. It's 1/8" angle with 3/16" fb layered over the holes.

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of course the weather couldn't hold out for just a few hours.

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Finished, looks a little hoaky, but is 1000x's better than a couple 1/2" bolts welded to the diff :laughing:

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You gonna go with a van 60 rear this go around or try something else?

How did you know? :laughing:

Ya, i got a late model E350 rear I'm going to use. It's full float, 8 lug this time. Not sure if I want to get another arb and some 35 splines or weld it and run the 32 splines for now.

Scored a roof at work today. Some assembly required
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Cut the front to shape, the straight duct tape line throws the eye, but it follows the tube. Went past a bit so I can wrap it down. Plan is to have some type of weather stripping anywhere roof touches tube. For sealing and noise damping.

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Going to order some of there to make it easy.

 
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