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Another 1st gem - Kernel MusTURD

Did I see an instagram clip of this laying on it's side, and another truck attempting to right it by driving into it?



Did you watch the video? :flipoff2:

No it's not this one.

I did get it running and went out for a few hours to bomb around though.

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I’m pretty sure I know who made the instagram video posted above (Mitchb775).
 
Took this up to the mountains today. I think it's time to dive into it more and address some issues.

Engine pukes oil everywhere, have a lime on a 22re for a good price.

Moved the muffler back a bit, under the heat shield, helped a bit, but it's still hot. I'm guessing the webber isn't tuned right because the exhaust just seems excessively hot.
 
Took this up to the mountains today. I think it's time to dive into it more and address some issues.

Engine pukes oil everywhere, have a lime on a 22re for a good price.

Moved the muffler back a bit, under the heat shield, helped a bit, but it's still hot. I'm guessing the webber isn't tuned right because the exhaust just seems excessively hot.

don't you have a 5.9 swap, a 2"+ 3rd gen IFS suspension to design and a driveway to plow first? :flipoff2:
 
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3rz's are very hard to find these days and would require a different transmission setup since the front trans is an L series with a non removable bell.

Kid said the 22re truck seems to sketchy for him. Guy originally said it had no title and was parts only, then later asked I
Him not to post pics of it because "the guy died and his family might see it" :homer:

Not sure what to do. Anything but a 22re is going to mean a fair amount more work.
 
3rz's are very hard to find these days and would require a different transmission setup since the front trans is an L series with a non removable bell.

Kid said the 22re truck seems to sketchy for him. Guy originally said it had no title and was parts only, then later asked I
Him not to post pics of it because "the guy died and his family might see it" :homer:

Not sure what to do. Anything but a 22re is going to mean a fair amount more work.
LS !!!!! hHAHAH:lmao:

I AM sold on it...
 
now omg that is real tempting then ...

It would be the smart route, but also kinda the boring route.....

My thought was a $500 22re would drop right in, radiator, motor mounts, bellhousing, even my ps pump would work and then just a bit of fuel lines and wiring.

I don't plan to run the dual transmissions for ever, but wanted to keep them for a bit.
 
3rz is impressive for what it is. Would have a hard time messing with the 22r/re stuff when thats out there
 
Been thrashing on this for our trip later this month. Fired it up with the fuel tank on the ground next to it today.

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It's funny how similar yet different they are being 11 years apart. Stayed with the plan of just using everything from the 92 entire wiring harness and all.

Something I would have never guessed was motor mounts. The 92s looked newer, so I just left them on there. Apparently they made the holes where it bolts to the frame about 1/4" further apart at some point. :homer: Turned out being a bit of a pain with it bolted to the trans since I couldn't lift the engine very high with the way the trans is tucked.

Most everything else was just figuring out the best combination of 81 vs 92 parts. Lots of stuff tou wouldn't think about like heater hoses, vacuum line to brake booster, ect.

Next step is mounting a toyota sending unit into a fuel cell I have and mounting in the bed.
 
Surpringly, this fuel cell is working out perfectly.

Pulled the fuel level sensor and stuck the shop vac hose in on blow while I cut and tapped the sending unit holes. Also used grease on the tap. When I was done, I looked in and only saw 2 or 3 shavings in there.

The height of the sending unit is perfect, the shock should be about 1/2" or less from the bottom. I found it on ebay, for a 2nd gen 4runner I believe. It was straight vs the donor truck sitting at an angle.

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Guy who built this put in 2 5/8" barbs for vents. I found some 90* vents on speedway with roll over valves built in. They were 1/4" npt and tank was 3/8" npt, so I just used a bushing. I did have to tap the bushing a little deeper to get the brass tube to pass through, but wasn't a big deal.

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So the fuel pump wiring was obviously not going to be long enough. The sending unit I bought had this plug on it, so I dug through the old 81 harness and found its mate. Then cut then donor truck wires right at the sending unit. Only had to do 1 splice.

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I then figured I may as well scavenge a 2 wire plug for the fuel guage sender.

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I used some wire mesh loom from autozone that actually seemed good quality. I'd seen this before, but FleshEater Mentioned it recently and sparked my memory, as the plastic stuff looks like shit to me. I even used some large heat shrink on either end to hold it in place, came out nice.

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test drive went well, has decent power for 2 pairs of squirrels. Floor heat issue seems much better, i think the weber wasnt running right making the exhaust extra hot. I still want to address it, and may just have a full exhaust done now that the gas tank isnt in the way.

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so here's a wierd issue that I am a little stumped on. See how tight the intake tube is to the radiator? It was the same way in the donor truck. I was wondering I'd there are different styles of intake boot? Google says 85-88 is different than 89-95, but can't really find a comparison.

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This ebay listing says it's for a later 22re and looks shorter? Maybe?
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That loom is much nicer than the plastic junk.

Seems like a bad idea to have a radiator heating up the air before it hits the manifold. Is there no room on the passenger side to reroute that?
 
If I remember correctly, the throttle bodies are angled differently. Not sure if that makes that hose shorter, longer or just different.
 
That loom is much nicer than the plastic junk.

Seems like a bad idea to have a radiator heating up the air before it hits the manifold. Is there no room on the passenger side to reroute that?

Ya, might make it 89 hp instead of 92 :flipoff2:

All 22re pickups are this way, just not shoved into it this hard. I may mount it on the passenger side when i redo the front end. 22re celicas were that way, or just get a 180.

If I remember correctly, the throttle bodies are angled differently. Not sure if that makes that hose shorter, longer or just different.

This is the other style I found, not sure if it would help or not. Might have more flexibility.

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So I once installed a high low rail rotated 180 the wrong way and was able to knock the pin out, catch it with a magnet and rotate the rod. I was really hoping this was the case, but it's in completely backwards, no idea how it even works :laughing:
 
Pulled the tcase and flipped the rail around, feels normal now. Also figured out why it leaks so bad, no sealant between adapter and trans :laughing:


Also curious if people are running extra fluid with a r150 to gear drive case adapter, thats a pretty big cavity..... Slander Is the only person I can think of who I believe has this set up.

I used to always just dump 1 qt in the crawl box and 2 in the tcase. I went to pull the fill plug to actually get an accurate level but it wanted to round off instead if bust loose. I dumped like 2.5 qts in and called it good.
 
Pulled the tcase and flipped the rail around, feels normal now. Also figured out why it leaks so bad, no sealant between adapter and trans :laughing:


Also curious if people are running extra fluid with a r150 to gear drive case adapter, thats a pretty big cavity..... Slander Is the only person I can think of who I believe has this set up.

I used to always just dump 1 qt in the crawl box and 2 in the tcase. I went to pull the fill plug to actually get an accurate level but it wanted to round off instead if bust loose. I dumped like 2.5 qts in and called it good.
My crawl box/lefty combo will vent fluid like crazy if I put more than 2qts in it. It seems happy around 1.5 qts. I never really bought into the "use the cavity as a tank" thing. Even when I pulled my cases you really don't see much evidence of fluid in there. I believe it just squirts out the shifter hole and the drains back in via that lower most hole in the adapter. Back when I had the crawl box and the chain drive case, I overfilled it once and it vented out the crawl box:laughing:
 
My crawl box/lefty combo will vent fluid like crazy if I put more than 2qts in it. It seems happy around 1.5 qts. I never really bought into the "use the cavity as a tank" thing. Even when I pulled my cases you really don't see much evidence of fluid in there. I believe it just squirts out the shifter hole and the drains back in via that lower most hole in the adapter. Back when I had the crawl box and the chain drive case, I overfilled it once and it vented out the crawl box:laughing:

So you only use 1.5 qts for both cases? That seems crazy, I've always heard 3 qts, unless the lefty is different, but hard to see it going from 2 to 0.5 :laughing:

I was talking to a buddy who ran one and he said that no oil gets into the cavity. After some discussion, we realized that my marlin adapter is a lot different than the tg or the aa he ran.

The marlin clearly let's fluid into the cavity

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Where the tg may not?

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I thought the hole under the G was an oil passage, but maybe not.

I'd think that cavity, at least on the 3.0 r150s is pretty big and extra fluid wouldn't hurt anything.



Also, I noticed some excessive play in the rear output, no idea what would cause that, but still allow it to function fine? Going to just run it and hope for the best :laughing:
 
Yea it's weird, but I always toss 2qts in it and it vents for a while then stops, maybe its not quite a 1/2qt coming out, but it goes for a while. The leftys just a gear drive case and the fluid specs are the same, and it shares fluid with crawl box. I have an inchworm adapter for the crawl box to trans and it looks like the bottom one, and yea that's an oil passage for the fluid that comes out that shifter hole ontop, either way I still don't buy the tank theorey.:laughing:
 
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