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Another 1st gem - Kernel MusTURD

Just got home

What an epic trip, wheeled at 5 different places and only had to crimp one terminal and pinch off a brake line that I was too lazy to zip tie up. :homer:

Stay tuned for a full report :flipoff2:

Random pics
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Glad you had a good trip. How'd you crunch your driver side fender?
 
Copy that.
How did the 22re run? Sounds like it didn't give you any problems.
 
Copy that.
How did the 22re run? Sounds like it didn't give you any problems.

Really good over all. Had good power for what it is and crawled great, spent most of the time in 2nd which works out to like 85:1 and I almost would have been ok if thats as low as i had. 1st is like 140:1 which was plenty and i did use it a few times, but for the most part it was too low. I don't remember my 4runner having as much off idle tq as this, maybe the lce header helps?

It did make some top end noise a few times when it seemed to get a little warm, but I just ignored it since it's just a 22re :laughing:

I does let out a puff of smoke every now and then, but again, just ignored it.

Pulling some of those grades before and after rubicon was no joke :laughing:
 
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Slacking on posting pics of the trip :homer:

I did rip the axles an tires out of this thing and send them to their new home. Buddy is putting them under a double cab 04 tacoma with a 4wu front kit, should be pretty sweet.

Today I spent a little time doing a bunch of dumb shit to make it a roller. That way I can idle backwards 50 feet and then forwards into the "shop"

I did accomplish getting a rough idea of rear ride hieght with the 5" tg leafs in spring under. Seems like it sits a little lower than before, but it's on flat 35s. Goal was roughly the same ride hieght on 40-42

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Of course, I didn't take any measurements before. So I'm just guessing. I'm going to try and borrow some tires for mockup and see how it looks.
 
Are you going links or leafs up front?
 
Are you going links or leafs up front?

Links, I have 2.5x16 air shocks for it

Edit: it's getting the whole front end chopped off, frame and core support. Looking at the frame yesterday, the shape is actually pretty good compared to the ifs frame, but at this point it's been scabbed on too much and I'd rather just start fresh with some thicker tubing.
 
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Pulled this in the "shop" yesterday. Despite having done nothing to get the 60s in, I pulled the tcase to sell and started another can of worms.

First time having a look at the dual trans adapter. Could be cleaner, but not a bad execution I don't think. There is also an aa r150 to w5x bell adapter in there since I guess it originally had a w56 and it blew up.

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Plan is ax15/r150 hybrid to use the 3.8 atlas I have. Although the r150 has held so far, even with 2.28 case and 4.10 axle gears, I figured more reduction behind it, and a stronger case should help.

Apparently the ax15 shifter is just slightly different, but 2 holes line up and it shifts, so I'll just slot the other 2 holes.

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Another nice thing is ill be loosing some length on this long ass setup. 2" just at the trans. Then another 2 3/4" with the Atlas.

So if my half ass math is correct and an r150/dual Toyota case puts the output 46" from the engine block, I'll only be 4 1/2" longer at 50 1/2":smokin:

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Taking a page from big gay Mike's book, this will definitely be the WOLRDS FIRST L50/R150/AX15HYBRID/ATLAS3.8 :lmao:

It will be retarded low at like 338:1 1st/1st and 474:1 in rev/Rev :homer: but 2nd will be 207:1 and 3rd 129:1 which is almost perfect for me. Before 1st/1st was "only" 139:1 and was perfectly low enough for everything I did at rubicon and Fordyce. I did use rev/Rev at like 190:1 at sand hollow, but part of that was the webber running so bad, I couldn't crawl how I wanted.

Either way, I'll have...... Options :laughing:
 
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So the ax15 I bought had "bad syncros"

First thought was to just put the ax15 output and tail housing on the r150, but I think that may be harder than it sounds because the tail housing with 5th and Rev is quite different. So I picked up an ax15 rebuild kit and I'll probably just do the r150 input in the ax15 like everyone else.

Never rebuilt a trans before. Watched a few videos and doesn't look too bad as long as you keep track of all the parts.

I would have never guess these are all the parts to rubuild a 5 speed trans. :laughing:

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NGL… I outsource transmission and 3rds because they intimidate me. Good on you.
 
NGL… I outsource transmission and 3rds because they intimidate me. Good on you.

Same here, I just can't imagine bringing 2 transmissions to a shop and asking if they can mix parts:laughing:

I explained the whole thing to my 12 year old the other day and he seemed pretty interested, so hopefully I can get him to help me.
 
Well good thing I pulled the Toyota case out. For some reason 2 of the bolts for the output bearing retainer fell out and were be bopping around in the tcase :laughing: gear oil was very pretty :homer: glad that didn't decide to grenade on ice house road.

That retainer also broke and was letting gears rub things that shouldn't be.
 
Sounds like someone has already decided to be a "rebuilder". :laughing:
 
Tackled the trans today. Went decent considering.

Remember how I said "I can't believe all the parts to rebuild a trans are in here"? Well, I was right, not to believe it, they left out like 5 needle bearings and a few other small parts that should have been in a rebuild kit imo. :homer:

Anyway.



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I'm old school and vastly prefer a step by step write up over a video. The guy I found left all the main detents and shift rods intact. So that was nice to not mess with.


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Patience isn't my strongest quality by a long shot, but I managed:laughing:

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Had to do a few back tracks.

Went to put the last (5th gear) syncro in and it wouldn't fit. Thought maybe it was the dumb kit, but compared it to the front (3rd gear) syncro and it matched. Same ID, same tooth OD, but slightly smaller shoulder OD. :homer:

Luckily that one is easy to get off and not one of the ones on the main cluster that requires a series of pita press positions :laughing:

Then got it completely together and it was in neutral, but wouldn't shift into any gear. :mad3:pulled it apart and after a while I noticed the Rev gear was backwards :homer: I only noticed because the teeth taper was the wrong way.

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It's surprising that it will go on that way, but it's just off enough that it pushes the shift rail into the Rev position, which locks all the detents out.

Here it is. A r150 input made into a secondary range box, with an ax15 gearset and tail housing. :lmao:

Fwiw, if all you wanted to do is put an r150 input in an ax15, you could probably do it in an hour. It's really simple actually.

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Then decided to tear down my old ass atlas. Only to find this

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Was kinda a buzz kill, but after some guidance from JR4X I think I can save it.
 
Happy to see that you got it figured out. 🍻 when I was building mine I just stacked everything in order of the way it came off.
 
Happy to see that you got it figured out. 🍻 when I was building mine I just stacked everything in order of the way it came off.

Ya, I had texted you about a work around, but I realized the whole tail housing is different. The r150 has an extra bearing on the counter shaft, ect.

I think it would be fairly easy to use that spud shaft from AA and just make a flat plate to adapt to the Atlas. Basically copy the tacoma adapter.
 
So I have been wondering more and more if it's worth dumping money into these old axles at this point. I originally got the gm60 for pass drop and bolt into my leafs, plus I liked the ability to run 6.17s or 7.17s.

At this point, at minimum I need to gear lock and chromo shaft the rear (not buying a 32 sp locker) then the front needs basically a full rebuild, axle shafts, locking hubs, brakes, ect.

Now, I'm not running leafs, don't need lower axle gears and could switch to driver drop without too much hassle. 05+ superduty axles are looking pretty good. Could even just slap lockers in and run them as is.

Off to research flipping the Atlas over, having it machined to driver drop or flipping axle to passenger drop. :laughing:
 
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Easiest way is to price a brand new one delivered, and sell your used one for $500 less than the new one costs.

Mine is completely in pieces being rebuilt.

So I could flip the piece with the oil galleys over, then flip the whole case. I'd think the shift rod seals should seal as good as anything. As far as I can see, nothing else is different.

I can try and list it, but I pass drop is getting so uncommon, I can't imagine anyone will jump on it. It's also like the first run of atlas 2 cases, old af.
 
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