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Another 1st gem - Kernel MusTURD

Got 1 to work :laughing:

I like this one, kinda shows off the advantage of the boat side :smokin:
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Been trying to get stuff done after work, but family in town and working longer days has made it difficult.

Managed to get this done yesterday. Still need to fine tune the fitment a hair, but I think it came out decent.

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thats perfect, will make for a solid spot to mount anything off of in the bed also.

The only thing is that I want to have the c pillar mount to it, but I don't like having it dead end and I don't want an ugly tube on the outside of the bed. Gotta figure out an x brace or something.
 
Got off at 3 yesterday and worked till ~9pm (besides yaking with Lincoln for a while) then Woke up at 6 and worked on this thing all day.

Started with an outside the cab bar.
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Then I think I blacked out.... last thing I remember was holding the cut off wheel :laughing::flipoff2:

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I've always liked open top rigs so much more for wheelin. That test run, it was only like 75* and it still got hot in that little cab. I'm sure the back being cut out would have helped a bunch, but too late now.

I do actually have a plan to seal this up for winter. Going with an aluminum roof and making the door frame pieces bolt back on similar to a samurai.

So I then wanted the a pillar to a pillar bar to be flat, and welded to the cab. Came out pretty good I think. The inner structure fit pretty good under the tube after I flattened the 90* lip down and tweaked it a bit. Prepare for potato night pics.

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Where I left off.

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I also don't think I have mentioned how I plan to do the kids seats. I have 3 boys. 5 10 and almost 4. I felt like a 46" wide bench would have been to cramped, especially the way they grow. I already had 2 small seats I got from Lincoln about 18 months after paying for them :homer: so with a little help from him on sizing, I picked up a 3rd seat for the 10 year old and came up with this configuration.
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It makes the "cab" a little long, but was the best compromise I think.

Next plan is to build a sub structure to mount all 5 seats to that's tied to the frame, sliders and cage.
 
I’m just going to say, not my fault an I told you so.

I am not sure on what yet but it was probably something smart I said that will be applicable on something later.:flipoff2:
 
Spent all day doing seat mounts. Was super gay having to deal with the stock floor and all the killmatt shit. I would Not recommend that stuff on something like a trail rig that you may later do fabrication on. I really wanted to just cut the floor out and start over, but we're supposed to leave next weekend :laughing:

I wanted to tie into the frame, but there is only like 1/4" between the frame and floor, so welding from underneath is about impossible. I ended up using a short piece of tube and welding inside it to the frame then outside to the floor. Each spot came out a little different because, well shit was different :flipoff2:Worked pretty good, I'll definitely be using this trick more.
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I bought a cheap universal slider off Amazon for the driver side only. Hindsight, it was almost easier to mount than just doing direct. The little vertical tabs on the bottom of suspension seats are a pain in the ass.

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Hoping the kids seats go quicker since it's just a flat square. Plan is to build a sub frame deal that they all will bolt to, then tie that into the frame and cage.
 

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Was trying to figure out how to tie through the bed and think I got it. I want to run a piece of 2x2x120 square tube across the bed that the cage, seats and bed wall will tie into.

I had thought about hole sawing the 2x2 and having it go all the way through, but no way I could weld I side a 4" long tube.

So I made the tube basically flush with bed. 1 3/4 x120 through the bed, weld inside like before.

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Then drop a piece of 1 1/2" tube inside and weld it to the 1 3/4.

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Hole saw 1 3/4 on one side and 1 1/2 on the other of the square tube. Drop it on and it's locked in :smokin:

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almost missed this build, cool truck for sure but i think you are more dangerous around sheet metal with a zip cut then me. but that being said i would have taken the windshield out by now :flipoff2:
 
Was super gay having to deal with the stock floor and all the killmatt shit.
Have you ever tried the crushed dry ice with rubbing alcohol trick to freeze it and make it lift/peel? Worked wonders on the oe rubber stuff with Japanese vehicles
 
Have you ever tried the crushed dry ice with rubbing alcohol trick to freeze it and make it lift/peel? Worked wonders on the oe rubber stuff with Japanese vehicles

Thats what the previous owner said, well, except for the rubbing alcohol. I just didn't feel like running to the store, and them not having any, then the next store, ect. Just to come up empty an hour later. :laughing:

I wasn't sure if that would make it harder to get off just where I wanted. Maybe cut a line first?
 
I wasn't sure if that would make it harder to get off just where I wanted. Maybe cut a line first?
So I used crushed up dry ice pellets mixed with isopropyl alcohol and poured that over the oe rubberized what not. It cracked on its own while it peeled up, no need to cut it.
 
Really like the lines of the cage. I might steal the idea of cutting the back wall out for my daughters project, for our family of 3.

Interested to see how you seal it up for winter.
 
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