YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Oops, pics 
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Another 1st gem - Kernel MusTURD
- Thread starter YotaAtieToo
- Start date
-
- Tags
- toyota
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
So I haven't even posted the best parts of this thing yet.
Spare parts
Skate board wheel gas pedal
Good stickers
Sweet guages, including a 3500 rpm 2 step switch
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Fucking piranha
Spare parts
Skate board wheel gas pedal
Good stickers
Sweet guages, including a 3500 rpm 2 step switch
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Fucking piranha
Slander
Team no stickys
Compete with the required Busch light can in the bed
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Is it really a beater Toyota without a few hidden emptys?
rockota
white collar hillbilly
- Joined
- May 28, 2020
- Member Number
- 1642
- Messages
- 3,959
Is it really a beater if it has a diamond?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Is it really a beater if it has a diamond?
The best beaters have all the money in the axles.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I'm digging this quite a bit.
Looks like I can drop it down about 3" pretty easily. Which should be about perfect
Looks like I can drop it down about 3" pretty easily. Which should be about perfect
Clb
another toyota from P.R.K
Bench building this in my head...
Is the space behind the cab big enough for a gas tank with the box slid dack?
Is the space behind the cab big enough for a gas tank with the box slid dack?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
J.Cole
Red Skull Member
Sweet first gen. I think its gonna look good after you lower the bed. Are you gonna run the fenders on the bed?
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Well this thing is turning out to be a sweet project.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Not sure, I kinda joked about putting the street sign fenders back on.
I kinda like re mounting the originals.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Got it dropped down, looks better, but still high. It's now hitting the fuel tank, and can drop ~1/2" more in the back at least.
Also cut the frame down and slid the bumper up. Not a fan of the tail lights, but I'll probably just weld it on as is for now.
Been holding these seats from Lincoln for a while and think I might use them on this. Also thinking about picking up one of those empi mini seats for the little one. Looks like they'll fit good staggered like this.
Also cut the frame down and slid the bumper up. Not a fan of the tail lights, but I'll probably just weld it on as is for now.
Been holding these seats from Lincoln for a while and think I might use them on this. Also thinking about picking up one of those empi mini seats for the little one. Looks like they'll fit good staggered like this.
IowaOffRoad
Imperator Donvaldus Ioannes
Here’s another bed for those following this thread, hope OP doesn’t mind
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
i love this box
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Here’s another bed for those following this thread, hope OP doesn’t mind
Am I starting a trend putting old shitty bed on Toyotas? Hope not
That bed you listed actually kind of looks like a knock off of 2nd gen bed.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I was hoping to get some Dom for this thing last week so I could get a good start on the cage. Called like a dozen places and no body had any 
well at least the 2 places that actually gave me an answer besides, "I'll have to call you back" and never did.
I definitely miss have 2 places within 40 Mins that you could just pull up and buy tube. These places all want 1-2 day call ahead, paid in advance ect. Not to mention not having any. Ended up having to text frank to ask dirt head head Dave where he goes.
So now the plan is to go on a test run this weekend. I have only driven it on and off the trailer plus maybe a few hundred yards so I figure if I'm dumping all this work into it, I might want to make sure it's not going to fall apart.
Need to get the bed secure, weld the bumper back on, figure out the front spring plate gap (hoping to just add a leaf back in that he gave me) give it a once over and bolt the belly pan up.
Made these little tabs, going to bolt them to the factory mounts and then weld wherever they touch the bed. 🤷
The front most mounts are ~8" away, but I might deal with those later.
I used carriage bolts to hopefully keep a low profile. Drilled the holes to 11/16, but left a little 5/8 lip so I had to hammer them in. Not sure if that will do anything since they're welded anyway.
well at least the 2 places that actually gave me an answer besides, "I'll have to call you back" and never did.I definitely miss have 2 places within 40 Mins that you could just pull up and buy tube. These places all want 1-2 day call ahead, paid in advance ect. Not to mention not having any. Ended up having to text frank to ask dirt head head Dave where he goes.
So now the plan is to go on a test run this weekend. I have only driven it on and off the trailer plus maybe a few hundred yards
so I figure if I'm dumping all this work into it, I might want to make sure it's not going to fall apart.Need to get the bed secure, weld the bumper back on, figure out the front spring plate gap (hoping to just add a leaf back in that he gave me) give it a once over and bolt the belly pan up.
Made these little tabs, going to bolt them to the factory mounts and then weld wherever they touch the bed. 🤷
The front most mounts are ~8" away, but I might deal with those later.
I used carriage bolts to hopefully keep a low profile. Drilled the holes to 11/16, but left a little 5/8 lip so I had to hammer them in. Not sure if that will do anything since they're welded anyway.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Not super bling, but I'm working with 88 year old steel here
Currently trying to get the filler neck figured out. Probably going try and go to the factory ford tank access hole.
Currently trying to get the filler neck figured out. Probably going try and go to the factory ford tank access hole.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Got some stuff checked off the list and keep finding more stuff..... Nothing major, just want to make sure it's not going to have some ridiculous failure the first day on the trail.
Vato zone had the perfect chunk of hose for like $11. Just had to trim a bit off.
I'm not wanting to keep this tank very long as it fits like shit. But had to make it functional. For now this will work ok. Be harder for tweekers to siphon too
Once the bed and tank was secure, I wanted to flex it and see how close the tire would get. Looks like it will be about perfect. Will probably rub on the trail with more wieght on that corner, but it's a smooth surface anyway.
Noticed the ome rears aren't too happy when flexed out. I had planned to put the short over load leaf back in anyway.
Tire was also rubbing the firewall pretty easily.
Vato zone had the perfect chunk of hose for like $11. Just had to trim a bit off.
I'm not wanting to keep this tank very long as it fits like shit. But had to make it functional. For now this will work ok. Be harder for tweekers to siphon too
Once the bed and tank was secure, I wanted to flex it and see how close the tire would get. Looks like it will be about perfect. Will probably rub on the trail with more wieght on that corner, but it's a smooth surface anyway.
Noticed the ome rears aren't too happy when flexed out. I had planned to put the short over load leaf back in anyway.
Tire was also rubbing the firewall pretty easily.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Added the overloads, and moved the axle forward 1" with the existing holes. Killed 3 birds with 1 stone since the plates were sitting all fucked up and needed a thicker pack in one way or another.
Of course I roached a u bolt and a center pin. But had replacements in my parts "shed" (project side shit) sometimes it pays to hoard shit.
They look way happier. This was with the front wnd down hill also, so even more wieght on it. Still would like to add bump stops.
Next thing is the steering, about all of it. The pump is toast, whines like crazy even in 2wd on gravel with the tires aired up.
He used 7/8" hiems on regular Toyota arms, which don't really work, so the hit before full lock driver. Also, the tie rod is too short and was poorly extended anyway. I have some 1.5x250, or maybe I'll just sleeve with 1.5x120.
Not sure how to fix the interference issue. I'm tempted to order up FROR keyed arms, but I'm not sure that's in the cards. I might just try to drop the tie rod all the way down flat on the arm and hope that helps.
I have a 1.5 psc ram that is currently ~8" throw. I measured the throw of the tie rod and got 5" I'm positive I've read Toyotas use 6" throw a million times. But I guess it's probably not getting full lock to lock.
Of course I roached a u bolt and a center pin. But had replacements in my parts "shed" (project side shit)
sometimes it pays to hoard shit.They look way happier. This was with the front wnd down hill also, so even more wieght on it. Still would like to add bump stops.
Next thing is the steering, about all of it. The pump is toast, whines like crazy even in 2wd on gravel with the tires aired up.
He used 7/8" hiems on regular Toyota arms, which don't really work, so the hit before full lock driver. Also, the tie rod is too short and was poorly extended anyway. I have some 1.5x250, or maybe I'll just sleeve with 1.5x120.
Not sure how to fix the interference issue. I'm tempted to order up FROR keyed arms, but I'm not sure that's in the cards. I might just try to drop the tie rod all the way down flat on the arm and hope that helps.
I have a 1.5 psc ram that is currently ~8" throw. I measured the throw of the tie rod and got 5"
I'm positive I've read Toyotas use 6" throw a million times. But I guess it's probably not getting full lock to lock.
Last edited:
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
When I put that little panel back on, I briefly thought "those screws are going to fuck me from putting fuel in one day" but then figured, nah, I always have a leatherman or something.
First fucking time I put fuel in it, no screwdriver
Luckily the gas station had a pos flathead
Guess I have a designated fuel door key now.
Surprisingly, it filled up on full tilt with no issues.
Also drove it over 25 for the first time. Has good power and actually drives half way OK, but does have a pretty good vibration. Guessing rear driveshaft.
First fucking time I put fuel in it, no screwdriver
Luckily the gas station had a pos flathead
Guess I have a designated fuel door key now.
Surprisingly, it filled up on full tilt with no issues.
Also drove it over 25 for the first time. Has good power and actually drives half way OK, but does have a pretty good vibration. Guessing rear driveshaft.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I figure I have to do something about the steering, was going to do the diy p pump that I linked earlier, but by the time I buy a pully and fittings, I just decided to buy this.
www.summitracing.com
Hopefully it works out
Allstar Performance ALL48242 Allstar Performance Power Steering Kits | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Allstar Performance Power Steering Kits with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Power Steering Pump Kits at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com
Hopefully it works out
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
They stopped leaking then?
Well, considering the kit $25 cheaper than just a pcs pump and $150 cheaper than a TG pump with a pully, I figured it was worth a shot. I was going to be near $200 into a factory tc pump, v belt pully, and a jic adapter.
Well, considering the kit $25 cheaper than just a pcs pump and $150 cheaper than a TG pump with a pully, I figured it was worth a shot. I was going to be near $200 into a factory tc pump, v belt pully, and a jic adapter.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
They stopped leaking then?
Well, considering the kit $25 cheaper than just a pcs pump and $150 cheaper than a TG pump with a pully, I figured it was worth a shot. I was going to be near $200 into a factory tc pump, v belt pully, and a jic adapter.
Tackled the steering unfuckery today, as well as the fact that there was not one exhaust hanger
Internet is down, which is bogging down the cell service, so I'll have to post pics later.
Tie rod and drag link were 1 1/4x120 wall that was lengthened by cutting and sleeving about 8" in the middle. I was just about to use some of my new inserts and 1 1/2x250 wall when I found a tie rod off my father in laws YJ that was the EXACT length I needed, and even has the assist tabs in the right spot.
I then cut the sleeve section out of the old tie rod and it was the perfect length to be sleeved the whole way with 1 1/2 x120. I then played with the spacers to get the tie rod as low as possible and the drag link spaced up a bit, seemed to work fine and the heims barely kiss at full lock.
Exhaust was pretty uninteresting.....
Took it for a mild test run. A few miles of highway at 60 mph, a few miles of dirt road and a tiny bit of crawling.
I'm actually mildy impressed at the power level of this truck. It's right up there with any 22re I've driven and definitely way more than any 22r. Plus the 25 available gears make it pretty fun
It's almost like these underpowered Toyotas were meant to have this set up, with a little thought, you can split gears. For example 5th/3rd is slightly lower than 4th/4th. Also, starting in 2nd/1st shifting to 2nd/2nd, and then 3rd/2nd > 4th/2nd really gets you going quickly. Then up shift the 2nd trans from there. My thought process is to try and keep the first trans in a higher gear whenever possible to reduce the torque load on the 2nd.
As far as crawling around a tiny bit, it went OK. It did die, which turned out to be a wire at the coil, which is the 2nd time I've had a crimp from the PO fall out. Might have to go through and at least re crimp stuff. I also had the wire pop off the starter solenoid. Apparently wiring is the weak point so far
Well, considering the kit $25 cheaper than just a pcs pump and $150 cheaper than a TG pump with a pully, I figured it was worth a shot. I was going to be near $200 into a factory tc pump, v belt pully, and a jic adapter.
Tackled the steering unfuckery today, as well as the fact that there was not one exhaust hanger
Internet is down, which is bogging down the cell service, so I'll have to post pics later.
Tie rod and drag link were 1 1/4x120 wall that was lengthened by cutting and sleeving about 8" in the middle. I was just about to use some of my new inserts and 1 1/2x250 wall when I found a tie rod off my father in laws YJ that was the EXACT length I needed, and even has the assist tabs in the right spot.
I then cut the sleeve section out of the old tie rod and it was the perfect length to be sleeved the whole way with 1 1/2 x120. I then played with the spacers to get the tie rod as low as possible and the drag link spaced up a bit, seemed to work fine and the heims barely kiss at full lock.
Exhaust was pretty uninteresting.....
Took it for a mild test run. A few miles of highway at 60 mph, a few miles of dirt road and a tiny bit of crawling.
I'm actually mildy impressed at the power level of this truck. It's right up there with any 22re I've driven and definitely way more than any 22r. Plus the 25 available gears make it pretty fun
It's almost like these underpowered Toyotas were meant to have this set up, with a little thought, you can split gears. For example 5th/3rd is slightly lower than 4th/4th. Also, starting in 2nd/1st shifting to 2nd/2nd, and then 3rd/2nd > 4th/2nd really gets you going quickly. Then up shift the 2nd trans from there. My thought process is to try and keep the first trans in a higher gear whenever possible to reduce the torque load on the 2nd.
As far as crawling around a tiny bit, it went OK. It did die, which turned out to be a wire at the coil, which is the 2nd time I've had a crimp from the PO fall out. Might have to go through and at least re crimp stuff. I also had the wire pop off the starter solenoid. Apparently wiring is the weak point so far
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I forgot to mention that I weighed it on my way back yesterday. It was 4140 withe and my little one is his car seat. So easy ~275 lbs combined. Plus, a full tank of fuel, the tool box mostly full, a spare 33 I threw in and some random rocks the kids liked no belly pan though, wieght bias wasn't bad either 2200/1940.
So probably 3500 lbs empty? Not bad at all. But obviously I have a bunch of wieght in tube to add.
Pic dump
Threw the half doors on, they're pretty rough, but functional.
Was curious if both these beaters would fit on my 22' trailer. Looks like they fit easily. I definitely wouldn't have the Toyota backwards, which would allow me to pull forward almost 2 more feet.
no belly pan though, wieght bias wasn't bad either 2200/1940.So probably 3500 lbs empty? Not bad at all. But obviously I have a bunch of wieght in tube to add.
Pic dump
Threw the half doors on, they're pretty rough, but functional.
Was curious if both these beaters would fit on my 22' trailer. Looks like they fit easily. I definitely wouldn't have the Toyota backwards, which would allow me to pull forward almost 2 more feet.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Drove this pos to work today
Being able to look at it from a bit of a distance I can definitely see that the bed isn't level.
The food news is that the front is high, so I can just cut the stock mounts down, making it sit lower overall and lining up better with the stock bedline.
I also noticed that the po added oil pressure guage is leaking in the cab not sure what to do about that.
Being able to look at it from a bit of a distance I can definitely see that the bed isn't level.
The food news is that the front is high, so I can just cut the stock mounts down, making it sit lower overall and lining up better with the stock bedline.
I also noticed that the po added oil pressure guage is leaking in the cab
not sure what to do about that.
Slander
Team no stickys
Plug it?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Lowered the front of the bed down to make it level. Amazing what 1" difference will do. I just chopped the Toyota mounts off, then slid the piece back inside and welded it
Also decided to start some boat sides I've always wanted to do them on something, so I just started cutting. That's as high as I could go without moving the lower hinge. Which I wasn't opposed to, but it's only 1" below the window regulator when it's rolled down. So it will work.
Forgot to take a Pic of the final cut, but basically everything below the pinch weld that the plastic trim sits on had to go.
It's not a crazy amount more clearance like the full size guys, but I still think it will be a big advantage over standard sliders.
Not sure what to do back here. I don't want to just end at the cab but it just running straight back seems silly. I'm thinking about kicking it out at the cab at a very slight angle, maybe 1-2" total?
Also decided to start some boat sides
I've always wanted to do them on something, so I just started cutting. That's as high as I could go without moving the lower hinge. Which I wasn't opposed to, but it's only 1" below the window regulator when it's rolled down. So it will work.Forgot to take a Pic of the final cut, but basically everything below the pinch weld that the plastic trim sits on had to go.
It's not a crazy amount more clearance like the full size guys, but I still think it will be a big advantage over standard sliders.
Not sure what to do back here. I don't want to just end at the cab but it just running straight back seems silly. I'm thinking about kicking it out at the cab at a very slight angle, maybe 1-2" total?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Driver side is mostly done except I don't have enough plate. I had a few pieces, so I tackled the hardest one in the front. Was a bit of a shit show because there was a patch made out of license plates with killmatt over it
Was a bit of a challenge to make all the stringers parallel with the frame kick in by the tcase crossmember, but managed to get it pretty damn close.
I'd like to make another plate that connects the slider to the frame by the vin.
Was trying to figure out how to patch the little gap between the seat and the slider when I thought, duh, stick with the theme. Had a big pile of CA plates for some reason
Was a bit of a challenge to make all the stringers parallel with the frame kick in by the tcase crossmember, but managed to get it pretty damn close.
I'd like to make another plate that connects the slider to the frame by the vin.
Was trying to figure out how to patch the little gap between the seat and the slider when I thought, duh, stick with the theme. Had a big pile of CA plates for some reason