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A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build
- Thread starter Wisconsinite
- Start date
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
#6 screws thread into the body and secure the switch. I had to tap the switch in with a plastic hammer, the fit was very tight.
10-24 square nuts are slid into their slots, and used to secure the front bracket. I made the slots for a 5/16-18 SHCC. In hindsight, I problably wouldn't have done that again, and used a standard hex bolt and a washer. When I torque the bolts down, it deforms the plastic a little bit. There really isn't much surface area for the bolt head to grab being in a slot. It looks cool though.
And installed. I ground that little tit off that would hold a return spring. I am going to relocate that a little lower on the pedal.
Damn, that looks awesome.................................But you need to stop looking in the Midnight Panic thread.
And to think I was really proud of my brake light switch mount. I got 5 maybe 6 minutes tied up in it.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
A guy has to have goals, right?Damn, that looks awesome.................................But you need to stop looking in the Midnight Panic thread.
I don't have my pedals hooked up to the masters yet, therefor I didn't know exatly where the pedal was going to land. Since I couldn't make it perfect, I made it adjustable. But hey, ours both accomplish the same thing, and you have wayyyyyyyy less time and money into your solution.And to think I was really proud of my brake light switch mount. I got 5 maybe 6 minutes tied up in it.
Damn, that looks awesome.................................But you need to stop looking in the Midnight Panic thread.
And to think I was really proud of my brake light switch mount. I got 5 maybe 6 minutes tied up in it.
Are you only planning on using 2 bolts to mount that pedal assembly and is it bolted to more than just the firewall metal?
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
I don't think you were talking to me, BUT, this has been on my mind. Do you think I should add a L bracket and capture the two mounting holes on the top of the pedal mount near the firewall? It is currently held on with 4- 5/16-18 studs and nuts.
I don't think you were talking to me, BUT, this has been on my mind. Do you think I should add a L bracket and capture the two mounting holes on the top of the pedal mount near the firewall? It is currently held on with 4- 5/16-18 studs and nuts.
Do you have it braced to the chassis or is it just bolted to the firewall metal?
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
It's gonna flex the firewall if it's not solidly mounted. It takes alot more force on the pedal to stop a manual brake setup than something with vacuum or hydro boost.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Come on down! Not sure how much we will get done, but we can sure shoot the shit.
You ever wander into Appleton Steering? We used their racks exclusively for our super late models when we were building chassis. They make super nice stuff!
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
How would you support the panel with the brake pedal? Tube going from firewall into the engine bay and down to the frame rail?
FIREWALL TO ENGINE BAY
FIREWALL TO INSIDE OF CAB
CHASSIS
FIREWALL TO ENGINE BAY
FIREWALL TO INSIDE OF CAB
CHASSIS
Sit in the seat and push on the pedal as hard as you can. It the firewall flexes, brace it more. If not, you're good. Could get creative with a laser pointer taped to the bracket to watch for the flex, or maybe just a couple foot long piece of anything rigid.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
It is only tacked on at the moment. That is a panel that will get fully welded at a later date.
Piece of 1/4" aluminum formed into a "L" shape, grab all 4 bolt holes of the top of the pedal, go up the firewall and a couple random bolts where you could fit, maybe a gusset in-between bolt holes or on the ends for even more overkill. Not sure if that makes sense or not.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Yes, that makes sense, but I think some of the concern is the whole panel flexing on hard braking.
How thick is the panel the pedal is bolted to? And you said you were welding that panel in completely, correct?
The flat unsupported area of the panel doesn't seem that large but I see could the concern. A) thicker metal. B) beadroll the panel. C) Make a separate pedal mount that mounts the pedal, bolts to the firewall and somehow spreads the mounts out and up to the tube structure using some of your ninja skills.
The flat unsupported area of the panel doesn't seem that large but I see could the concern. A) thicker metal. B) beadroll the panel. C) Make a separate pedal mount that mounts the pedal, bolts to the firewall and somehow spreads the mounts out and up to the tube structure using some of your ninja skills.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
Run a gusset off the vertical tube tied to the plate. Gusset should be under the master cylinders.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
The panel is 1/8" mild steel. It is only supported on one vertical side, and the top. There is a flange on the other side to add stiffness, but now that someone else brought it up, I am thinking harder about a solution.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Not following.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
Add a 1.5” x .25” flat bar with a notched end for the vertical tube. Flat bar should weld around/to the vertical tube and to plate on the engine side just under the MC at a length of about 8”
Bar runs horizontal.
Mimics the bottom flange of the plate but puts it directly where the load is.
Bar runs horizontal.
Mimics the bottom flange of the plate but puts it directly where the load is.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Like so? You think that will be enough?
I could also add a tube from the panel down to the frame?
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
This is the start of a 15.5 hr print. If all goes as planned, this will be one of my windshield defrost ducts.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Now that is awesome.....................................and why you should always look at the Midnight Panic updates
As far as your brake pedal mounting goes. If that firewall portion is all 1/8" plate, I'd think that's going to be pretty tough to flex all by itself. If you think it needs more beef, Hydro's idea is a good one. Basically a doubler for the back side.
I've got a bigger sandwich plate on the engine side of my firewall.....and a hydroboost.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Now that is awesome.....................................and why you should always look at the Midnight Panic updates
As far as your brake pedal mounting goes. If that firewall portion is all 1/8" plate, I'd think that's going to be pretty tough to flex all by itself. If you think it needs more beef, Hydro's idea is a good one. Basically a doubler for the back side.
I've got a bigger sandwich plate on the engine side of my firewall.....and a hydroboost.
What did he do now? I will have to check it out again though.... shucks.
Edit: gt1guy , what were you refering to with the midnight panic updates?
By the time this rig gets finished I will be old and gray, I don't want to have to rework systems if I don't have to. I will more than likely add a piece of .25" domex to the back side and call it a day.
Bebop
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 1458
- Messages
- 4,137
lt1yj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2020
- Member Number
- 2258
- Messages
- 176
You ever wander into Appleton Steering? We used their racks exclusively for our super late models when we were building chassis. They make super nice stuff!
This one:
They used to be in Minooka IL right off I80/I55 outside of Joliet. The website says they're in Carterville, IL now. Fred (owner with his brother) lived right across the street from me for almost 10 yrs. Super cool guy and always had fun stuff he was working on.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Printed some adapters that will bolt to the face of the heater box and split to QTY 4 1.5" dia hoses. These took ~14 hours to print, and cost $3.25 each. You can see the support material required for the print to succeed.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
I also made some face plates for the defrost ducts. I think they turned out pretty well. I tossed a few coats of clear on them, the white gets dirty really easily.
