A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build

[Wisconsinite]

Needless to say, that hose fit perfect and can cross that off the list!

Messed with the 3d printer a little bit. This is all printed out of polycarbonate, and is really strong for a plastic part. This is a little bracket to support the valves for the heater core. This print failed, as the left hand portion of the print pulled off the heat bed. I was able to use this as a mock up, and see if my design was correct, and my hole sizes were accurate.

I modified the model and sliced it again, and reprinted it. The first print was a "draft quality" print, thick layer lines, fast speed, minimum detail. You can see there is a small lip in the middle of the part. It pulled off the bed a little bit, and was closer to the extruder nozzle than the machine thought, and pushed all the filament outside of the part. The side facing the camera was on the print bed.

Captive nut holder for a 1/4-20 nut. This prototype had 15 percent infill, thick layer lines, it took an hour and fifty minutes to print, and cost $2.18.

I printed a final part with 30 percent infill and half the layer height (prototype was .3mm / .012" per layer, and the "detail" layer height used on the final product was .15mm/ .006")

Quick sand and polish, and I have a functional part. If it ever breaks, I can load up the file, hit print, and 5 hours later have a new part!

Made some line seperators. This one holds a -6 hose and a -3 braided stainless hose. These took an hour a price to print, and cost roughly 70 cents a part.

 

[Pyleit]

Why are both flow arrows pointed the same way on heater core lines? Should one be in and one be out?

 

[Wisconsinite]

Why are both flow arrows pointed the same way on heater core lines? Should one be in and one be out?

If I had them with the arrows matching the flow pattern, the valves would have been offset by almost 3/4" due to the fittings, and the bulkhead sections would have not lined up. It is just a simple ball valve, and to my understanding shouldn't have an adverse effect on the flow.

 

[Slander]

^ BOOM. I will try and make it work on the top of the roof. If that means I need a little hole in the soft top, that isn't the end of the world.

Thanks for the info.

Fwiw I have my gmrs antenna mounted right behind the cab and it works fine. I can clearly hear a weather repeater that's 100miles from my house and everyone clear on the trail. I wouldn't worry about ground planes and all that crap personally unless you are using this to wheel solo in the middle of nowhere and your life depended on it or something. Not getting it ripped off on a tree was a good trade off for some performance I would not have noticed anyway. I also have the small ghost type antenna and the rugged radio one shown below is more clear and less crackly.

 

[mobil1syn]

man i really want a 3d printer now

 

[Wisconsinite]

man i really want a 3d printer now

I was hesitant on the purchase, but I am happy I have it now. There is a learning curve for sure, but it's a cool tool to have. There is a "3dBenchy" file, that is a well known benchmark print for getting your printer settings dialed and testing new filament.

This is polycarbonate

This is 20 percent iron powder filament.

Soft jaws for the vise. Total cost was $4.11 and took 16 hours to print.

I drew up these little calibration blocks. 1" X 1" X 1" cube, and all dimesnions are within .007".

 

[csutton7]

You may have motivated me to get my 3d printer going as it's been sitting for 3 years waiting. I thought the kid would jump on it and have it all figgered out, but NOOOOOO that didn't happen, so maybe, just maybe I might get to making it print this winter, so that I can dabble in making things for the Willys.

 

[gt1guy]

I know zero about 3D printers and always thought they produced a brittle plastic part that was at best used for mock-ups or toys.

So, you can make parts out of different materials? How do they work when dealing with heat, stress and vibration?

It still seems like black magic to me.

 

[Wisconsinite]

You may have motivated me to get my 3d printer going as it's been sitting for 3 years waiting. I thought the kid would jump on it and have it all figgered out, but NOOOOOO that didn't happen, so maybe, just maybe I might get to making it print this winter, so that I can dabble in making things for the Willys.

Do it! If you already have it, get it running. Filament is cheap.

I know zero about 3D printers and always thought they produced a brittle plastic part that was at best used for mock-ups or toys.

So, you can make parts out of different materials? How do they work when dealing with heat, stress and vibration?

It still seems like black magic to me.

Those little hose seperators I printed? I can put it on the floor and my fatass (220lbs) can stand on it and bounce. I could only get the print to fail by bouncing and twisting at the same time, and that was just a few outer layers delaminating. I am impressed with the polycarbonate so far.

Basic Attributes​

Pros and cons from the mfg of the filament

	Styrene free		Large models have a tendency to warp
	High temperature resistance up to 113°C / 235F		Requires high heatbed and nozzle temperatures
	Good dimensional stability in comparison with other PC filaments		Higher price
	High impact and wear resistance		Produces minor odors during printing
	Prints don't deform under pressure over time
	Low warping, layer cracks are very rare
	Very low moisture absorption

 

[gt1guy]

Are there different kinds of filaments with different properties?

I dig the picture of the load testing cert.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Are there different kinds of filaments with different properties?

I dig the picture of the load testing cert.

Yeah, there are a ton of different materials available. I have most of the common ones to experiment with. One I am really excited about is Fiberlogy Fiberflex 40D - Black filament 850g. That is a Shore D hardness of 40, like a shoe heel or shopping cart wheel.

I have a 20 percent carbon fiber filament that supposedly produces a killer finish.

 

[chaplinfj60]

man i really want a 3d printer now

i have the printer, but i struggle on designing my own parts. i mean struggle......

 

[Wisconsinite]

Made a little progress this weekend while having the race on the in the background (that was a distraction for sure).

Not picture worthy, but I swapped my oil pan from a muscle car pan to a F-body pan. The muscle car pan within ~.125" of the oil pan skid plate. That was too close for comfort.

I have been kicking around this hood vent panel for the last two years, and was sick of moving it, so I decided to finally install it. While I had the hood off, I decided to knock out some under hood lights, and figure out the plumbing for the windshield washer nozzles.

Blast from the past - KOH 2020 - Sitting next to Ian Johnsons rig.

Even got to spend a day wheeling with him!

 

[Bebop]

That is a rad picture !

 

[chaplinfj60]

damn love this build

 

[gt1guy]

Dig the louver panel..............................but I really like that light setup.

What lights? Where did you get them? How bright are they?

 

[Wisconsinite]

Dig the louver panel..............................but I really like that light setup.

What lights? Where did you get them? How bright are they?

Thank, I think the panel looks cool, and will hopefully help my rig stay cool since my radiator is too thick and my fans arent' brushless, and I have two coolers in front of it.

The lights are KC highlights cyclone V2. I have them behind my cowl panels, and I am using them for the rock lights as well. They are pretty damn bright for drawing .52A. They mount with a 1/4-20 bolt in the center. I am ordering more, and can toss some in with your AL bushings (hoping to knock them out this week). It doesn't look like it, but the shop was pretty dark when I took this pic.

 

[mobil1syn]

cyclone lights are legit

 

[gt1guy]

Thank, I think the panel looks cool, and will hopefully help my rig stay cool since my radiator is too thick and my fans arent' brushless, and I have two coolers in front of it.

The lights are KC highlights cyclone V2. I have them behind my cowl panels, and I am using them for the rock lights as well. They are pretty damn bright for drawing .52A. They mount with a 1/4-20 bolt in the center. I am ordering more, and can toss some in with your AL bushings (hoping to knock them out this week). It doesn't look like it, but the shop was pretty dark when I took this pic.

Looks like you're just about out of room in the Ol' engine compartment.

Yes, If you don't mind, I'll take a couple of those Cyclone's with the bushings.


How far away are you from firing the beast up?

 

[Wisconsinite]

Looks like you're just about out of room in the Ol' engine compartment.

Yes, If you don't mind, I'll take a couple of those Cyclone's with the bushings.

How far away are you from firing the beast up?

Yeah, the engine bay is filling up fast. Thankfully there isn't much more that I need to cram in there besides the wiring.

PM sent.

I don't know. I am thinking I may not fire it up until after paint and powde coat. So I would say within the next 2-3 years at the rate I am going

 

[Bebop]

I don't know. I am thinking I may not fire it up until after paint and powde coat. So I would say within the next 2-3 years at the rate I am going

I wouldn't.

Keep yourself the ability to add zip tie tabs and ground points for your wiring.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I wouldn't.

Keep yourself the ability to add zip tie tabs and ground points for your wiring.

The wiring will be as complete as possible, and I will do system checks to make sure everything functions as it should, I am just not going to start it. I don't want to have to deal with hoses full of oil, fuel tank and injectors full of fuel, etc.

And If I am being honest with myself, If it was running and driving, I don't think I would have the disipline to tear it down for paint with wheeling season approching. I don't want my chassis, axles, everything to rust. And as cool as the multi color body panels are, I would like them to match.

 

[Bebop]

I hope you don't need to modify anything after the first fire up then.

 

[chaplinfj60]

i get that for sure

 

[Wisconsinite]

I hope you don't need to modify anything after the first fire up then.

Me too. Even if I do, it won't be the end of the world. I will be able to rattle can repair the painted frame, I am only getting select items powdercoated.

 

[Wisconsinite]

When I first started this project, I didn't want to fork over the cash for a HP third, so I set out to build two low pinon units. Turn out a LP front would not work, and I ended up getting a HP10 from gearworks. This let me build a LP with ARB for the rear, and a spare with a spool. Got the spool and ARB yesterday. Hopefully I can get those put together soon.

 

[Pickuptrucker]

Looks beefy for sure

 

[chaplinfj60]

very cool indeed....

 

[Wuz-A-zuk]

When I first started this project, I didn't want to fork over the cash for a HP third, so I set out to build two low pinon units. Turn out a LP front would not work, and I ended up getting a HP10 from gearworks.

What was the issue with the LP front?

 

[Wisconsinite]

What was the issue with the LP front?

So, this is pretty embarrasing, but I messed up my front axle.This was my first time building an axle from scratch, and I majorly messed up the castor angle for the knuckles. If I sent it with a LP, I would have ~0 degrees castor. If I went with a LP, I would have had to limit droop travel a few inches if I wanted ANY castor due to drive shaft bind. There was really only two options that I could come up with, cut and turn the cs or go HP. I had a HP third I could use for mock up, and it solved all my issues. So I went that route.

Now I have a strange LP third that will get an ARB, and a stange LP third that will get a spool and be a spare.