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A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build

Had to go back to post 461 to get a feel for your cage. Lots of good shit in your build. Should start over again and read it from the beginning. (Who am I kidding, I want to look at the pics)

Anyways, I like the idea of the console. I would not put a hole in the soft top. Maybe a whip antenna off the edge of the windshield? I don’t know if this would be stupid, but maybe a magnet antenna that could be stuck on the metal or the soft top. Not sure how good it would stick through the top. (You would still have to run a cable somehow)
 
Had to go back to post 461 to get a feel for your cage. Lots of good shit in your build. Should start over again and read it from the beginning. (Who am I kidding, I want to look at the pics)

Anyways, I like the idea of the console. I would not put a hole in the soft top. Maybe a whip antenna off the edge of the windshield? I don’t know if this would be stupid, but maybe a magnet antenna that could be stuck on the metal or the soft top. Not sure how good it would stick through the top. (You would still have to run a cable somehow)

Yeah, I agree with you on not cutting a hole in the top. I will have to find a mounting solution that won't interefere with the top. I just thought doing it that way would minimize the exposed wires on the cage.
 
Yeah, I agree with you on not cutting a hole in the top. I will have to find a mounting solution that won't interefere with the top. I just thought doing it that way would minimize the exposed wires on the cage.
Does the cage tube run to the rear of the cage? If so, drill a hole in the tube big enough for the antenna end, the drill another at the back of the cage. Use the cage as conduit, and then weld a mount tab to the back of the cage. Extra antenna shielding, and clean hidden wiring.
 
Does the cage tube run to the rear of the cage? If so, drill a hole in the tube big enough for the antenna end, the drill another at the back of the cage. Use the cage as conduit, and then weld a mount tab to the back of the cage. Extra antenna shielding, and clean hidden wiring.
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Your center tubes don't. Bummer. You could run it through the front roof tube, drill a hole at each corner where the main hoop runs back and a hole where you want it to come out at the rear. Then gusset the intersection and run a piece of waste wire through while welding so you don't melt your antenna wire. Then pull through when done. I'm going to have to do the same because I didn't pre plan.
 
Yeah, I agree with you on not cutting a hole in the top. I will have to find a mounting solution that won't interefere with the top. I just thought doing it that way would minimize the exposed wires on the cage.
I know optimally an antenna should be mounted vertical but can you mount the antenna horizontal? If so, room to mount under the light bar to mount it horizontally?
Would sure make for a short run of wire.

No experience with antenna besides basic radio so not sure if mounting has to be vertical or not but I figured I'd toss my 2¢ into the ring.
 
I know optimally an antenna should be mounted vertical but can you mount the antenna horizontal? If so, room to mount under the light bar to mount it horizontally?
Would sure make for a short run of wire.

No experience with antenna besides basic radio so not sure if mounting has to be vertical or not but I figured I'd toss my 2¢ into the ring.
I appreciate it! I never thought about that as a mounting location. I will add that to the list of things to look at.
 
Thanks, they turned out pretty good. I welded a a piece of 1/8" aluminum to the back of the catch can and mounted it to the firewall. I am hoping this is high enough that they won't puke fluid.

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And to your point of the small air tank, yeah, it is pretty tiny. With the dual motor ARB compressor, I am hoping a large tank isn't needed for what I am looking to do. This will be used for the two solenoids for the lockers, and filling tires and blowing out the cab with an air wand. I am not sure what 3 CFM at 90psi feels like, but the compressor has 100 percent duty cycle (ashkey, lol) so I am going to let it rip.

And as I make my way closer to the end, I am seeing the need for a lot of little brackets, line and wire seperators, edge guards, etc. I bit the bullet and decided to buy a 3D printer. I am pretty excited for the possibilites!

Happy new years!

The breather tanks came out sweet. Well done.

As far as edge guards and whatnot go. Have a look at Austin Hardware. They have everything under the sun when it come to that.



How tight does the soft top fit to the cage?

If it's loose and floppy, I'd never think about putting a hole in it.

If it's a nice tight fit I'd be more inclined to go for it. If I was going for it, I'd take it to a boat shop that does that kind of work. They could put in a nice clean hole with a large reinforced area around it. Then just use a washer with a rubber seal on the antenna when you screw it down.

I do think the overhead console is a great idea. Just make sure your head can't hit it.:flipoff2:
 
Thanks, they turned out pretty good. I welded a a piece of 1/8" aluminum to the back of the catch can and mounted it to the firewall. I am hoping this is high enough that they won't puke fluid.

ia-gbN4oJaPOCsiNft_qei_ig=w1773-h998-no?authuser=0.jpg




And to your point of the small air tank, yeah, it is pretty tiny. With the dual motor ARB compressor, I am hoping a large tank isn't needed for what I am looking to do. This will be used for the two solenoids for the lockers, and filling tires and blowing out the cab with an air wand. I am not sure what 3 CFM at 90psi feels like, but the compressor has 100 percent duty cycle (ashkey, lol) so I am going to let it rip.

And as I make my way closer to the end, I am seeing the need for a lot of little brackets, line and wire seperators, edge guards, etc. I bit the bullet and decided to buy a 3D printer. I am pretty excited for the possibilites!

Happy new years!
Any chance the inner most breather is going to be a dripper? Only issue is if does puke will it drip right on that right manifold?
Hard to tell from the pix. Not trying to play negative nancy, just maybe put the highly likely pukers on the outer most breathers.
 
Any chance the inner most breather is going to be a dripper? Only issue is if does puke will it drip right on that right manifold?
Hard to tell from the pix. Not trying to play negative nancy, just maybe put the highly likely pukers on the outer most breathers.
The innermost fitting is for the trans. It has a tiny vent on the 4L80, and was going to use -4 hose, the inner most hole is 1/8 NPT, the rest are 1/4 NPT. I could switch them with out too much hassel. Would you put the rear diff in that position? T-Case?

I'm not sure about the antenna being next to my melon :idea:
My tinfoil hat is SOLID. I ain't scared. :lmao:
 
Put a P-Clamp on the antenna whip.
 
The innermost fitting is for the trans. It has a tiny vent on the 4L80, and was going to use -4 hose, the inner most hole is 1/8 NPT, the rest are 1/4 NPT. I could switch them with out too much hassel. Would you put the rear diff in that position? T-Case?


My tinfoil hat is SOLID. I ain't scared. :lmao:
:lmao::lmao:
 
uhhhhh so it doesn't whip around and beat your noggin if you put the antenna in the spot suggested by chaplinfj60 ?
 
The best mounting position will be in the center of a metal roof panel to get a proper ground plane. The position Chaplinfj60 brought up is close to the worst possible place you could mount the antenna. Use a pancake antenna if you need it to fit under a soft top.

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I would think a pancake antenna with a proper ground plane is going to perform much better than a whip style antenna mounted inside a faraday cage :laughing:
 
Put a P-Clamp on the antenna whip.

The best mounting position will be in the center of a metal roof panel to get a proper ground plane. The position Chaplinfj60 brought up is close to the worst possible place you could mount the antenna. Use a pancake antenna if you need it to fit under a soft top.

lp_1_1_1024x1024@2x.jpg


I would think a pancake antenna with a proper ground plane is going to perform much better than a whip style antenna mounted inside a faraday cage :laughing:
I haven't seen one of that style before. I will look into it further.

I am planning on welding a panel to the top to create a water resistant "lid" for the electronics. What thickness would you use?
 
The best mounting position will be in the center of a metal roof panel to get a proper ground plane. The position Chaplinfj60 brought up is close to the worst possible place you could mount the antenna. Use a pancake antenna if you need it to fit under a soft top.

lp_1_1_1024x1024@2x.jpg


I would think a pancake antenna with a proper ground plane is going to perform much better than a whip style antenna mounted inside a faraday cage :laughing:
the faraday cage... explains why i dont see antennas mounted inside the cage area. always above. TY :beer:
 
I haven't seen one of that style before. I will look into it further.

I am planning on welding a panel to the top to create a water resistant "lid" for the electronics. What thickness would you use?

As far as the antenna is concerned, the thicknessshouldn't matter much, just the fact that it is a conductive material.
 
The best mounting position will be in the center of a metal roof panel to get a proper ground plane. The position Chaplinfj60 brought up is close to the worst possible place you could mount the antenna. Use a pancake antenna if you need it to fit under a soft top.

lp_1_1_1024x1024@2x.jpg


I would think a pancake antenna with a proper ground plane is going to perform much better than a whip style antenna mounted inside a faraday cage :laughing:
I wonder if the pancake antenna would perform better than a 1/2 wave no ground plane antenna mounted at the base of the windshield or back bumper?

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As far as the antenna is concerned, the thicknessshouldn't matter much, just the fact that it is a conductive material.
I should have been more clear, I am just looking for opinions on what others would do as far as thickness. I have a sheet of .500", .375", .250", .125", some .080 and some .032" cromo. I am thinking the .032 would be hard to weld, and the 1/8 is probably overkill. Maybe .080?
 
The innermost fitting is for the trans. It has a tiny vent on the 4L80, and was going to use -4 hose, the inner most hole is 1/8 NPT, the rest are 1/4 NPT. I could switch them with out too much hassel. Would you put the rear diff in that position? T-Case?

I would think trans and T case would be highest possibility of puking, maybe put those on the outside?
 
I would think trans and T case would be highest possibility of puking, maybe put those on the outside?
My trans has never puked a drop of atf. T case is a different story but it could be my crawl box too or combo since I think I actually T'd those two vents together.
 
Not sure if this is what you're trying to figure out, but what if you just have a piece of flat plate in the center of your roof (which you'll already have on top of your roof console) and use a magnetic base for the antenna. If the base is strong enough to keep your antenna put through your top, voila. Then just run a ground strap and your coax to the back of your cage wherever the edge of the top is. Running to the rear would get some nice looping coax through the chassis which seems to be recommended anyway:idea:
 
I wonder if the pancake antenna would perform better than a 1/2 wave no ground plane antenna mounted at the base of the windshield or back bumper?

My statement was based on my experience with my magnetic base antenna that I run stuck to the metal floor inside my cab a lot so it doesn't get knocked off by brush in the canyons. The difference in transmitting and receiving as well as signal clarity is massive when I stick it on my roof. I would say FRS handheld radios work better when my antenna is inside my cab.

After posting about the pancake antennas I did some reading, and it seems the pancake antennas are kind of shitty, so that may not actually be the way to go, but I am no expert. My Superduty had a pancake antenna on the roof when I bought it, but it has never had a radio in it since I've owned it, so I don't know how it would have performed.
 
After posting about the pancake antennas I did some reading, and it seems the pancake antennas are kind of shitty, so that may not actually be the way to go, but I am no expert. My Superduty had a pancake antenna on the roof when I bought it, but it has never had a radio in it since I've owned it, so I don't know how it would have performed.

If the pancake style worked anywhere near as good as the standard metal antennas everyone runs, I would think it would be the standard instead of the metal ones - unless it's brand new and hasn't been able to make it's way into the market yet
 
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