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A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build

Small update.

I used modified shock resi mounts to attach the manifold/air tank to the B-pillar.
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Advice/input request:

Should I use the included 5mm air lines for the ARB lockers, or convert to -3an stainless hose?

I am considering plumbing the ARB solenoids to vent outside the cab of the jeep, does anyone know the thread pitch/dia for the vent? I am sure I can figure it out, but someone might know off the top of their head.

The cage mounted center console is too packed with stuff. I am planning on moving the stereo amp and bluetooth reciever somewhere else. That should free up enough room to fit the comms, radio, external radio speaker, PTT buttons, and the headset to comm ports.
 
I run AN line for the ARB. I had a couple 5mm line failures in over 15 years of running an ARB and it is a pain to get that little ferule on the line and into the fitting without a leak on the trail.

I haven't had an AN line failure since I started running it but it is so easy to swap an AN line. I keep spare lengths of AN line for my brakes that can be used for the ARB if necessary so I don't have to carry extra parts.
 
Go with AN lines for the ARB.

The threads for the ARB stuff might be that British Standard Pipe Thread if I'm remembering right. It's been a while though.
 
I tihnk some of threads are normal NPT, and I know the outlet that would feed the locker is BSPP (british standard pipe parallel).

I will look into going SS -3AN line for the lockers. Thanks for the input.

One thing that has kinda shocked me, is how expensive an fittings, hoses, and everything plumbing related can get. I had a buddy who wanted me to make him a catch can like I made for my drivetrain. I added up the cost of materials only, and that silly little thing has $255 in parts. Crazy.
 
have you looked here, have had real good luck with them, ships stupid quick also.

Surplus Center

Warehouse distributor for many top name manufacturers. Parker Hydraulics, Hypro Pumps, Prince Hydraulics. Direct from the factory. Surplus equipment. We buy large quantities of manufacturer's surplus or excess stock.
www.surpluscenter.com
 
Wisconsinite said:
Pretty sure that is the the same thing.
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AN is a fitting designation (Army/Navy) standard that was introduced around WW2. It standardized the use of a 37* sealing surface and SAE fine (UNF) threads on the fittings.

JIC (joint international code) is the updated callout, standardized for modern usage with AN fittings. Which are, 37* flared SAE (unf) fittings. Same same. And are 100% interchangeable (source: hydraulics technician for years, now in Aerospace research).

The modern usage of AN fittings is typically in conjunction with anodized aluminum or flight weight fittings. If you don't mind a few extra oz. Of weight and standard JIC fitting in steel or stainless will suit your needs, be available at any hydraulics store, and often roughly 1/4 of the cost.
 
1Sinner said:
AN is a fitting designation (Army/Navy) standard that was introduced around WW2. It standardized the use of a 37* sealing surface and SAE fine (UNF) threads on the fittings.

JIC (joint international code) is the updated callout, standardized for modern usage with AN fittings. Which are, 37* flared SAE (unf) fittings. Same same. And are 100% interchangeable (source: hydraulics technician for years, now in Aerospace research).

The modern usage of AN fittings is typically in conjunction with anodized aluminum or flight weight fittings. If you don't mind a few extra oz. Of weight and standard JIC fitting in steel or stainless will suit your needs, be available at any hydraulics store, and often roughly 1/4 of the cost.
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what he said :beer:
 
i would get my jic fitting from there at 2 bucks or less per fitting vice AN at 4 to 8 more per. its crazy dont have all the sizes sometimes but worth a look, and its alot cheaper to get spares of these than AN my 2 cents
 
Since we are on the topic, I need flexible brake lines. I am considering making my own with the fragola reuasble fittings. They use an "olive" and I guess would be considered a compression fitting. Bus load of nuns approved? I think it would be convenient to be able to make my own custom length hoses.
 
^ BOOM. I will try and make it work on the top of the roof. If that means I need a little hole in the soft top, that isn't the end of the world.

Thanks for the info.
 
lt1yj said:
I run AN line for the ARB. I had a couple 5mm line failures in over 15 years of running an ARB and it is a pain to get that little ferule on the line and into the fitting without a leak on the trail.
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for the blue line you warm it up with a lighter, stick em together and walla you have a welded leak free repair
 
mobil1syn said:
id rather have a slightly less effective radio so i dont have to be water boarded in inclement weather.
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You think you can just glue in a silicone grommet of sorts to the whole in the soft top?
On second thought a roof jack might be better, they have them in a appropriate size. Make two flanges and bolt it up some sealant.

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That is a good idea. In reality, the hole only needs to be ~.625". But I could potentially use something like that in other places.

I picked up a spool of 40D flexible filament for my new printer. I am hoping I can use that to print some custom wire grommets. But for 15 bucks, that would work too.
 
He's not wrong about it being a bad spot for a water leak.
If you used the right combination for antenna mounts you might get a perfect fit at the top of the roof jack to get a water tight seal.
 
but how much better is center verse off the back bumper or off the windshield frame. they just said thats best but not how much better, does your range drop 10% or 50% or is it marginal? anyone have any comparisons
 
chaplinfj60 said:
but how much better is center verse off the back bumper or off the windshield frame. they just said thats best but not how much better, does your range drop 10% or 50% or is it marginal? anyone have any comparisons
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they sell the bracket on their website for the OBS to replace the stock one on the cowl, so it has to be good enough.
 
I have a Ham antenna connected to the tailgate on my JKU. The mount goes straight up from where the stock tire mount was. It performs well. I have no comparison to a center roof mount, but I can tell you I've never had a problem with range. It's important to ground the tailgate, though. When my ground broke, everything went to hell.
 
Wisconsinite said:
Since we are on the topic, I need flexible brake lines. I am considering making my own with the fragola reuasble fittings. They use an "olive" and I guess would be considered a compression fitting. Bus load of nuns approved? I think it would be convenient to be able to make my own custom length hoses.
Click to expand...
Although you can make your own, I would look at something like the Russell PowerFlex Universal hoses. They come in almost any length from 6" to 6' in increments of a few inches. They come with various types of ends as well. I looked at making my own, but just felt having "factory" made hoses was a risk mitigator. When I did my TJ, I measured the line lengths and there were hoses that were within an inch of what I needed, so I just ordered them and was done w/ it. I actually ran flex all the way from the master cylinder to the front calipers. The nice thing w/ using flex was that I only had three lines which minimized the connection points. One ~6' hose that ran from the master, along the top of the upper link to a tee fitting at the front diff, and two shorter flex lines out to the calipers.
 
Sometimes I hate how my brain is wired... Hahaha. I made an upper rad hose probably a year-year and a half ago. 3 silicon 90's, a short coupler, and a straight aluminum tube. This would have needed six hose clamps, and that never sat well with me.

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Onto version two. Down to four clamps. But I worried about the aluminum welded joints fatiguing and failing in the future. I started mocking it up, and this is as far as I got with this version.

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While shopping online, I found these vibrant performance 90's with 10" legs. Back down to 4 clamps. This is easy to install, easy to repair, good to go, except I forgot I needed that little jog to clear my intake tube....:homer:

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So, saturday I mess around with version three, get it installed, and realize it hits my intake tube. I'm over it and move onto something else for a few hours.. Later in the day, my buddy stops by to shoot the shit and we talk about the rad hose. He goes " I bet you I can go to a parts store, find the perfect hose, and it'll be less than 20 bucks". I of course, say bull shit, but don't worry about it, I have version two that will work, I just need to weld it up. I was instantly against the idea of a store bought hose since I had a bunch of time and money into my three versions, and wanted to use them since I bought and paid for them....

A few hours later he shows up with a rad hose from a late 90s-early 2000s lexus/toyota upper rad hose. Well son of a gun...... That is down to two hose clamps! :lmao:
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