HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
Sounds like you didn’t know you built the axle right and ordered the wrong third the first go around. You did yourself a favor.
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A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build
- Thread starter Wisconsinite
- Start date
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
life is full of happy little mistakes just ask bob ross :^)
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
That is one way to look at it. I am not sad that I have that big heavy duty unit though. Haha
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Sell what?
the spare third
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
I think I will probably keep it around. I don't have a ton of faith in the RD99. I have a spare third and a spare set of rear shafts right now. When I beat this thing and break something in the rear axle, I find comfort in knowing I can have a new set up installed in short order.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
A little progress this weekend.
Front axle brake lines
Finished the rear axle brake line.
Cleaned up some vent line/trans plumbing.
Front axle brake lines
Finished the rear axle brake line.
Cleaned up some vent line/trans plumbing.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
I have a few options I can use. I have a few different offerings of DEI thermal shield. I also have some heat shields for the muffler.
Thanks, I appreciate it.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
I would put a small tack weld on every one of those nut certs. It only takes one to spin to send you into fits. My opinion is that nut certs are only good for thin sheetmetal.
I've been using weld nuts on everything. They do stick up .250" or so, but there's ways to deal with that.
I've been using weld nuts on everything. They do stick up .250" or so, but there's ways to deal with that.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
That isn't a terrible idea. .120" is the thickest material that I use these nutserts on for the most part. I also add a dab of green locktite.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
I have been using a lot of these lately. They are another option
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
McMaster Carr Cool. Much easier than welding nut to the back side. Wow. Easy.these are something ive use un the past with decent luck.
SMI17
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 133
- Messages
- 130
I have been using these for 20yrs and absolutely love them. Can take a little thinking to use but no worry of a nutsert spinning.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
Nice.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Plumbing is almost done! This weekend I was able to knock out the engine crankcase vent. After chatting with Bebop , I decided to run -8 plumbing from each valve cover to a catch can. I started with pulling the existing 3/8" barb fitting from the passenger side valve cover, and the orifice fitting on the driver side. I opened up the holes to accept a -8 weld bung and burned em in.
Once that was done and I had the engine side of the hose made, I started looking at routing options and how to secure them in the engine bay. I took the coil mounts off when I modified the valve covers, and drilled/tapped 3 holes to 1/4-20. I threaded a bolt in from the back to act as a stud, then reinstalled everything. I turned up some little threaded spacers and installed them on the bolt. I took a piece of 3/8" SS hardline and crimped it in the vise. This allowed me a spot to drill mounting holes. They still need a little clean up, but you get the idea.
With those in place on both sides, I was able to start attaching the hoses to the guides. I was able to mock everything up and cut the hoses to length and fit the other hose end. I am running these to a mighty mouse solutions gen 5 XL "Race can". Two -8 hoses coming in, and a single -10 coming out the top. The -10 hose goes down to a little bracket bolted to the frame. I used the inculded filter and top cap from the kit, and adapted it to -10.
Once that was done and I had the engine side of the hose made, I started looking at routing options and how to secure them in the engine bay. I took the coil mounts off when I modified the valve covers, and drilled/tapped 3 holes to 1/4-20. I threaded a bolt in from the back to act as a stud, then reinstalled everything. I turned up some little threaded spacers and installed them on the bolt. I took a piece of 3/8" SS hardline and crimped it in the vise. This allowed me a spot to drill mounting holes. They still need a little clean up, but you get the idea.
With those in place on both sides, I was able to start attaching the hoses to the guides. I was able to mock everything up and cut the hoses to length and fit the other hose end. I am running these to a mighty mouse solutions gen 5 XL "Race can". Two -8 hoses coming in, and a single -10 coming out the top. The -10 hose goes down to a little bracket bolted to the frame. I used the inculded filter and top cap from the kit, and adapted it to -10.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
The back of the engine.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Nice job.
What did you do with the vent in the valley cover? Does that still run into the intake?
What did you do with the vent in the valley cover? Does that still run into the intake?
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
This is a gen 3 truck engine, there is no valley pan cover vent, only two knock sensors.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
This weekend I got a few non picture worthy things checked off, and 3d printed a little bracket.
I needed a brake light switch, and drew up a little bracket that would mount off the wilwood pedal assembly.
First I needed to model the pedal, pedal mount, and figure an approximate position of the pedal. The drawing on the Wilwood website didn't provide all the dimensions needed to create the part. I copied the picture and scaled it until it was ~1:1. This let me make a sketch and then dimension the sketch to get the needed dimensions. The 4.10 dimension is from solidworks, I ended up getting within .010. Close enough.
Once I was able to draw the part, I made an assembly and determined where the switch needed to be located, how adjustable it needed to be, and started filling in the blanks.
This is with the adjustment maxxed out with the pedal as close to the driver as possible:
This is with the adjustment maxxed out with the pedal as close to the firewall as possible:
I am confident something in that range will work.
Once I had the parts modeled, I sent them to the 3D printing software. These parts have 10 soild layers top and bottom, and 10 vertical perimeters. Printed these out with a polycarbonate blend.
You can see the tool path in this section.
I needed a brake light switch, and drew up a little bracket that would mount off the wilwood pedal assembly.
First I needed to model the pedal, pedal mount, and figure an approximate position of the pedal. The drawing on the Wilwood website didn't provide all the dimensions needed to create the part. I copied the picture and scaled it until it was ~1:1. This let me make a sketch and then dimension the sketch to get the needed dimensions. The 4.10 dimension is from solidworks, I ended up getting within .010. Close enough.
Once I was able to draw the part, I made an assembly and determined where the switch needed to be located, how adjustable it needed to be, and started filling in the blanks.
This is with the adjustment maxxed out with the pedal as close to the driver as possible:
This is with the adjustment maxxed out with the pedal as close to the firewall as possible:
I am confident something in that range will work.
Once I had the parts modeled, I sent them to the 3D printing software. These parts have 10 soild layers top and bottom, and 10 vertical perimeters. Printed these out with a polycarbonate blend.
You can see the tool path in this section.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
#6 screws thread into the body and secure the switch. I had to tap the switch in with a plastic hammer, the fit was very tight.
10-24 square nuts are slid into their slots, and used to secure the front bracket. I made the slots for a 5/16-18 SHCC. In hindsight, I problably wouldn't have done that again, and used a standard hex bolt and a washer. When I torque the bolts down, it deforms the plastic a little bit. There really isn't much surface area for the bolt head to grab being in a slot. It looks cool though.
And installed. I ground that little tit off that would hold a return spring. I am going to relocate that a little lower on the pedal.
10-24 square nuts are slid into their slots, and used to secure the front bracket. I made the slots for a 5/16-18 SHCC. In hindsight, I problably wouldn't have done that again, and used a standard hex bolt and a washer. When I torque the bolts down, it deforms the plastic a little bit. There really isn't much surface area for the bolt head to grab being in a slot. It looks cool though.
And installed. I ground that little tit off that would hold a return spring. I am going to relocate that a little lower on the pedal.
Penetrode Offroad
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Member Number
- 493
- Messages
- 360
Is this thing f'ing done yet? I feel like you and HYDRODYNAMIC are in the running for slowest build ever. 
Im just jealous of the craftsmanship you two put in.
Im just jealous of the craftsmanship you two put in.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Getting there. HahaIs this thing f'ing done yet? I feel like you and HYDRODYNAMIC are in the running for slowest build ever.
Im just jealous of the craftsmanship you two put in.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
It’s a very close race. Possibly same deadline, KOH 2024?Is this thing f'ing done yet? I feel like you and HYDRODYNAMIC are in the running for slowest build ever.
Im just jealous of the craftsmanship you two put in.
Paint is going on the tube this summer when it drys up then rebuild the whole thing again.