those should be line grained stainless
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A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build
- Thread starter Wisconsinite
- Start date
those should be line grained stainless
WaterH
Well-known member
This thread didn’t show for awhile in my subs. All good, I get to catch up.
Carry on.
Carry on.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
you can there are so many small things there that you need and had no idea you needed them till you saw them lol
hehehehehehe
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
You make me some i'll toss em on.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Damn, it all looks fantastic. Like a little Jeep grill
I know you upgraded the pinch bolt on the lower links but I couldn't find that conversation to see if there were "how to prevent needing that from the get go" suggestions. I have been doing a ton of suspension design research and came across some pinch bolt bung best practices and thought of this thread.
According to my research, for a lower link, or similar rotational action joints, the double pinch bolt style is best. The single pinch bolts should only be used for something that doesn't rotate around the same axis as the threads, like an upper A arm.
The other thing is when welding the bungs in, the plate work needs to stay far enough away from the pinch slot to not reinforce it so much that it's too hard to pinch.
Here's an example of how far away from the pinch they are staying
All this from JEHC.
According to my research, for a lower link, or similar rotational action joints, the double pinch bolt style is best. The single pinch bolts should only be used for something that doesn't rotate around the same axis as the threads, like an upper A arm.
The other thing is when welding the bungs in, the plate work needs to stay far enough away from the pinch slot to not reinforce it so much that it's too hard to pinch.
Here's an example of how far away from the pinch they are staying
All this from JEHC.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
this is the way.... ^^^^^^^ tight tight tight.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
That is some good info, thanks. I agree on the single pinch bolt not being the solution. I also agree with the statement that the plate work needs to stay far away from the pinch bolt area. Adding a jam nut would have been an easy option if my tolerances weren't so tight on the axle housing to gas tank skid.
Your example has a much larger area between the plate work and "pinch area" of the bung. I think you will be GTG.
EDIT: This was my solution.
Hmm, my info was from trophy truck builders. It would make sense that we would see more rotational action from articulation, plus slamming against rocks, to make things turn. I'm surprised the jam nut fixed it for you. I could never get my lower link jams to stay tight, no matter how tight I got them.
Wisconsinite, what filament are you liking the most? I have only used basic PLA so far, but I'm going to have to get some PETG and polycarbonate to try out. Do you keep your spools in a dryer?
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
So far I have printed in PLA, PETG, PC blend, and some colorfill steel fill. PLA is about as easy to print as they come. PETG is just a weeeeeee bit more finicky, but currently this is my favorite material to print with. I have some ideas on print setting changes to make it a little better, but for now, this is my go to. PC blend, for me anyway, is a pain in the ass. It really wants to warp and pull off the bed.
I have my printer in my shop, in the middle of a commercial/warehouse building where the average temp is ~60°F. This is not warm enough to print PC. As soon as I got the printer assembled, I built an enclosure. Even after a 6 hour print, the enclosure temp is still only high 60s. I added two 45watt lamps in the enclosure, and now can maintain ~80°F during prints. The higher temp seemed to help layer adhesion, as well as minimize the tendency to warp.
If you print PC blend, I noticed my success rate increased with a 10-15mm brim with an offset from part of 0.00mm. It is a little more dinking around removing the brim, but it seems to help bed adhesion. Also, I am not printing do-dads and trinkets with the printer (mostly), so my infill is pretty high, and I usually have 10 layers top/bottom and 10 perimeter layers. I have a feeling these material dense parts with thick walls may want to warp more than thinner parts.
I don't keep them in a dryer, although I do keep them in the ziplock bags with desiccant packs. Then I toss all the rolls in a large ammo box with a rubber gasket. I have a few big desiccant bags in the ammo can to keep everything dry. I think that should be good enough.
I checked last print, and I am at almost 8 days of printing so far.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Got the defrost ducts installed and plumbed to the heater box. I am using 1.5" silicon hose with a internal support wire and external support string. I have never worked with this material before, but man is it nice. I printed the white heater ducts (ran out of black filament), 3.00 base circle to 2 - 1.5" outlets. Each white duct took 14 hours to print (I am using .15mm layers and settings that product a better part, but are slower).
I printed the little hose clamps too. I made some that clip the hoses together (both 1.5" ID) and I printed another version that had one 1.5" clip and one 1.75" clip to attach to the dash bar. These take ~1hr to print, so this layout was just shy of 8 hours.
I used some split loom where the hose passes through the dash panels. Here is the back side of the defrost duct.
Here is the defrost duct.
All said and done, these componets took ~80 hours to print, I had one failed print, and used ~20 bucks worth of filament.
I printed the little hose clamps too. I made some that clip the hoses together (both 1.5" ID) and I printed another version that had one 1.5" clip and one 1.75" clip to attach to the dash bar. These take ~1hr to print, so this layout was just shy of 8 hours.
I used some split loom where the hose passes through the dash panels. Here is the back side of the defrost duct.
Here is the defrost duct.
All said and done, these componets took ~80 hours to print, I had one failed print, and used ~20 bucks worth of filament.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Got the air lines ran from the micro air tank/ solenoids to the thirds for the arbs. I am using a reusable hose end with ptfe hose. I am running all -3 lines with -4 hose ends. I didn't have the whole system planned out when I started ordering parts, only to realize that a 1/8 BSPP to -3 fitting didn't exist, or at least I couldn't find one. I could find -4, so I ran with that. I cut the hoses a little long when I was routing them just to be safe, it ended up working well, and afforded me the extra length to add a little service loop at the solenoids. Should I damage the hose at the axle end, I am hoping to have enough slack in the loop that I can pull the hose down and refit the end.
I made this little shield to protect the hoses, solenoids, compressor, and the rear occupants legs from hitting the hot compressor. I have a driver side panel made, just need to install it.
I made this little shield to protect the hoses, solenoids, compressor, and the rear occupants legs from hitting the hot compressor. I have a driver side panel made, just need to install it.
Bebop
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Member Number
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chaplinfj60
Well-known member
i have a buddy named Dave, he tightened my jam nuts two years ago. mine have not budged since either. it can be done.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Another productive weekend in the books. The last few days I tried to focus on getting a center console knocked out. This will house a Kenwood radio w/ external speaker, a PCI intercom, Bluesea switch panel, a few dome lights and a cerwin vega bluetooth music player.
The design
Plas cut out of .125" AL.
Prepped
Tacked
And cleaned up a bit.
The design
Plas cut out of .125" AL.
Prepped
Tacked
And cleaned up a bit.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
holly buckets thats awesome....
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
That kicks ass.
Whats going on with the Blue sea switch panel, I always assumed they were just switches in a housing, the pcb has me confused a little.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
- Panel front rated IP67 when properly mounted with watertight mounting gasket
- IP67 – protected against immersion up to 1 meter for 30 minutes
- Designed for flybridge and open cockpit applications
- Independent label backlighting circuit for remote switching and dimming
- Available in 2, 4, 6, and 8 circuit models
- Each panel can be mounted in four different orientations
- Integrated ATO/ATC fuse based circuit protection
- Bicolored LEDs illuminate circuit labels to quickly identify OFF (Red), ON (Green), or Blown (No Color) circuits. No lights in any position likely indicate there is no power to the panel.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Oh yeah cool fuse/circuit indicators.
There was a local Gander mountain going out of business, and all the marine electronics were 80% off. I bought so much crap, hahahahaha. I picked up 7 or 8 of these panels, and they were 20 or 30 bucks. They are really nice units and should work well for most of the things I need.
- Panel front rated IP67 when properly mounted with watertight mounting gasket
- IP67 – protected against immersion up to 1 meter for 30 minutes
- Designed for flybridge and open cockpit applications
- Independent label backlighting circuit for remote switching and dimming
- Available in 2, 4, 6, and 8 circuit models
- Each panel can be mounted in four different orientations
- Integrated ATO/ATC fuse based circuit protection
- Bicolored LEDs illuminate circuit labels to quickly identify OFF (Red), ON (Green), or Blown (No Color) circuits. No lights in any position likely indicate there is no power to the panel.
I got some of that loot too, wish I had more cash that day.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
And then?
Where you at on this beast? Anything new to share with the gang?
Where you at on this beast? Anything new to share with the gang?
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
And then?
Where you at on this beast? Anything new to share with the gang?
No progess. I got way burnt out on the whole thing and pushed it to the corner of the shop. I built a little trailer to pull the new distraction around, and have been enjoying some time outside. I will get back on it soon.
Got photobombed by a black bear. Thought that was a pretty neat photo.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Looks like a fun distraction.
WaterH
Well-known member
No progess. I got way burnt out on the whole thing and pushed it to the corner of the shop. I built a little trailer to pull the new distraction around, and have been enjoying some time outside. I will get back on it soon.
Cool trailer. What is the spine? Some kind of tie down?
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
E track it looks like.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Yeah, that is aluminum e-track.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
In an effort to get motivated again, I tossed the wheels and tires on. Then I had the stark realization that it has been 3.5 years since I had all four tires on it..... 
