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A-Salt truck. 2002 International 4900

JNHEscher said:
Very much yes. I've been browsing for those and mechanical Cummins engines to swap. Every truck I come across in the area that has them ends up selling for at least double what I can spend. Bunch hooey.
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B series is... kinda trash
and a c-series would bring me2 back from the dead

only answer is a KTA or an 855
 
There's a bunch of big truck shops up in Springfield. Never hurts to start some working relationships with 1 or 2 of them.

And you're correct on the 9 pin plug. That thing is all Navistar. Cant think of that 7.3 like a Ford.
 
HillbillyDeluxe said:
There's a bunch of big truck shops up in Springfield. Never hurts to start some working relationships with 1 or 2 of them.

And you're correct on the 9 pin plug. That thing is all Navistar. Cant think of that 7.3 like a Ford.
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My eyes were sparkling at everything I was seeing as I drove around town this morning. The folks at Rush have been awesome. My wallet can't take their prices, unfortunately. I want to get back to wrenching too and have been happy with working on larger vehicles. Not sure my spine can take it at an 8-5 rate, though. I'm digging Springfield.

I spotted Navistar in town. Told my buddy that I might go protest their engineering on their lawn.
 
Got the new ICP in. Still has to crank a while before it start on the first round on tinkering. It fired up and I was able to hold it fairly steady for about 20 second. Then it started to stumbled bad again until it died. It's smoking a bit now. Cranking it now only gets a single cylinder to fire before it quits.

Looks like the IPR is ready to be picked up and the scanner will be available tomorrow.

The MIL hasn't turned on at all during any of this. I'll refresh my memory on reading the diagnostics and see if there are any stored codes.
 
JNHEscher said:
Got the new ICP in. Still has to crank a while before it start on the first round on tinkering. It fired up and I was able to hold it fairly steady for about 20 second. Then it started to stumbled bad again until it died. It's smoking a bit now. Cranking it now only gets a single cylinder to fire before it quits.

Looks like the IPR is ready to be picked up and the scanner will be available tomorrow.

The MIL hasn't turned on at all during any of this. I'll refresh my memory on reading the diagnostics and see if there are any stored codes.
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Are you gaining any oil? Sounds like your looking fuel from the rail somewhere. From cups, check ball, etc.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Are you gaining any oil? Sounds like your looking fuel from the rail somewhere. From cups, check ball, etc.
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Oil pressure? Engine oil pressure is steady at 50psi. HPO pressure still flutters and then starts jumping all over. Fuel pressure climbs nicely to 50psi and holds well. Fuel pressure does slowly drop to around 10psi or so over a period of 10 minutes-ish after I shut it off (or it dies).

Fuel is still coming out clean and green from the pressure test valve. The exhaust looks and smells like I'm getting a little too much fuel into every cylinder, though I have been needing to crank it for about 15 seconds before it'll try to start.

I'd like to get out and wiggle check the injector harness and various sensors, but it won't stay running long enough for me to get to them in time.
 
Oil level. So it's white smoking?
JNHEscher said:
Oil pressure? Engine oil pressure is steady at 50psi. HPO pressure still flutters and then starts jumping all over. Fuel pressure climbs nicely to 50psi and holds well. Fuel pressure does slowly drop to around 10psi or so over a period of 10 minutes-ish after I shut it off (or it dies).

Fuel is still coming out clean and green from the pressure test valve. The exhaust looks and smells like I'm getting a little too much fuel into every cylinder, though I have been needing to crank it for about 15 seconds before it'll try to start.

I'd like to get out and wiggle check the injector harness and various sensors, but it won't stay running long enough for me to get to them in time.
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Dethmachinefab said:
Oil level. So it's white smoking?
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I meant to pull the oil temp sensor to be sure the res had oil. I completely forgot about the oil pressure in the rail when I swapped the ICP. Sprayed me. So the pump must not be leaking down completely, indicating it isn't bad.

Looked kinda gray, but I was looking back towards the sunset. Smelled like partially burnt diesel only.
 
JNHEscher said:
I meant to pull the oil temp sensor to be sure the res had oil. I completely forgot about the oil pressure in the rail when I swapped the ICP. Sprayed me. So the pump must not be leaking down completely, indicating it isn't bad.

Looked kinda gray, but I was looking back towards the sunset. Smelled like partially burnt diesel only.
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I'm talking about crankcase oil level. Any fuel in oil.
 
Got the IPR. Pulled temp sensor and there's plenty of oil. Checked the crank oil smell again and still just smells of oil and there's no visible dilution.
 
Went ahead and swapped the new IPR valve in. Old valve o-rings looked good. The way the engine way acting, I suspected the needle(s) or such inside the IPR were junk. I'll do a teardown on the valve later.

Cranked it for about 10 seconds again. It fired up and stayed running. A little rough for a while as I'm sure it was purging air from the oil and fuel from the cylinders. Now it's running like it should.

I've only watched HPOP pressure on digital screens up until installing these gauges. They're cheap Glowshift gauges, but I've had decent results from them. The HPOP pressure still seems a little shakey. I'll make a few runs around the block tomorrow to see how it does.







Stay tuned for next week's "My truck shit itself again" post.
 
Possible culprit there.

20220427_104444.jpg
 
Since resealing the injectors and removing the AC compressor, the radiator fan hasn't turn on at the usual temp. Hasn't been a problem until today. Hauled 6 tons of rock up a lot of steep hills that required a 2nd gear crawl.

Started tracing wires to figure out what powered the fan clutch. The purple wire goes to one side of the coil of the relay on the firewall. The fan clutch + goes to 87a on the relay. I can't at all remember what the purple was connected to.

20220427_182123[1].jpg





There's two of the same gender connectors sitting on the valve cover. Swapping to one runs the fan constantly while the other does nothing (+ is on opposite sides of the two connectors of the same gender). I gotta go back out in while to see which pin the one connector sends power to on the relay.

20220427_191020[2].jpg
 
does the one that doesn't make it run actually only make it run once it is hot?
 
[486] said:
does the one that doesn't make it run actually only make it run once it is hot?
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That one that doesn't make it run has been connected the whole time. Fan no blow. I know it still ran after I cut that jumper wire between the fan and compressor. Tinkering with it tomorrow.
 
Ugly pumpkin said:
Also if the power and ground is swapped in the connector, wouldn't it pop a fuse as soon as you plugged it in?
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Gotta check that tomorrow. Found the engine fan fuse. There was power to it. Not sure about through it. It's an odd style fuse.
 
This schematic most closely matches what I have. Fan clutch ground (white) goes to firewall stud. Fan + goes to relay terminal 87a.

20220428_120531.jpg



On the relay, terminal 85 has the purple wire that isn't connected to anything. Terminals 86 and 30 are correct in that they share power - and this is where the dual plugs are, laying on top of the valve cover. Swapping plugs sends power to terminal 30, thus turning the fan on, which is connected to the NC position.

I looked through the whole thread to see if I had happened to capture where wires went and got nothing. I remember disregarding the single purple wire that wasn't connected. There a few more connectors on the other side of the engine that also dead end.

Either something else triggers power to the fan and bypasses the relay, or I need to swap the plugs to constantly send power to the relay and figure out what grounds the purple wire to complete the relay coil circuit to turn the fan off.
 
Chicken scratched a schematic of what I have. At the top, 23A and 23 come out of the main harness with a male connector. 23 is hot KOEO or KOER.

23A jumps between the two female connectors. Looks to me like the one that wasn't connected (23A/23) is the one that should be connected to match to circuit numbers on the male connector out the main harness. The 23C/23A connector might go the the temperature/pressure switch on the freon line next to it which is a male connector of the same type.

Circuit numbers and wire colors mostly match. I still can't figure out where the violet 97 wire is supposed to go. The schematic in the pdf says it goes to a "single box" and is tan. The circuit list in the pdf says 97 is violet and goes to electronic engine controls.


1651188267623.png

20220428_173136[1].jpg

20220427_182135[1].jpg







Edit: Pulled from the 1999 and up manual. Shows the correct connection of the dual plugs, but 97EFS wire coming off the clutch and no relay.
1651208723295.png
 
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Circuit list shows that 23 is for the fan in the right wire color.

1651192172821.png




I'm going to head to Rush tomorrow to see if the parts lady will pull up a schematic specific to my VIN and maybe hint towards what the hell connects to what.
 
Pasted the two partially matching schematics next to each other. '04-'40 layout is exactly what I have, but the violet wire is 97EFS like in the '99 and up layout.

Stopped by Rush today and they were closed for inventory. Maybe next week. Still don't know where the 97 wire is supposed to connect.

Fan clutch circuits.png










Plugged in that Nexas unit today. Wasn't worth buying. All it does is displays what I already see in the gauge cluster and the DTC's which I can pull with the truck's diagnostics button.
 
Found the connection. 97EFS was on a connector capped off on the passenger side of the valve cover. Plugged it in and confirmed operation.

Think I'll go tape and loom it up so the truck is ready to go. Considering heading north on Monday to grab my truck and take care of whatever else at my dad's that I can while up there. With current diesel prices, that might be a $400 round trip now.
 
Might go ahead and stick a 5k mechanical gauge on. The HPOP pressure has been pegging the Glowshift 4k gauge beyond where the gauge would show 4.5k if the dial displayed that high.
 
Oil change coming up. Picked up a filter at TAG Truck Center. Picking a 58 quart drain pan up at Oh Really's in a couple hours. Hopefully grabbing a couple buckets of 15W40 on Monday.

The DT466E is having a hard time starting and staying running when cold, now. Still not sure what the problem is, but stiction is becoming more and more the suspected problem. No DTC's showing up at all. It starts right up, runs for a few, then begins to stumble worse and worse until it dies.
 
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