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A-Salt truck. 2002 International 4900

Looks like 44 is gonna be the main route I take running upto the upper Midwest for the forseeable future

Maybe I can swing by if/when I have time :smokin:
 
Engine started losing power on the way back to Springfield from our property Monday. Figured the filter was done for. Got fresh filters and the OE water separator from Rush Truck today. Swapped them out in the hotel parking lot. Took it for a test drive and it's a mean machine now.

The injector o-ring(s) that went south ended up blowing a bunch of oil into the fuel tank. Looks like the filter caught a bunch and restricted the flow quite a bit.



Believe I can finally make a gravel run tomorrow. The rain has been nearly non-stop, so this should be fun.
engine oil shouldn't plug up the filters, the lube oil filter is usually like 8-10 micron and the fuel filters are usually something like 15 and 8 pri/sec

Maybe the cold front that came through made the filters wax up?
 
Looks like 44 is gonna be the main route I take running upto the upper Midwest for the forseeable future

Maybe I can swing by if/when I have time :smokin:
Any time, man. Shouldn't be too long before we break ground to build our house. Chillin' at an extended stay in Springfield for the time being so we're close to work/property.
 
engine oil shouldn't plug up the filters, the lube oil filter is usually like 8-10 micron and the fuel filters are usually something like 15 and 8 pri/sec

Maybe the cold front that came through made the filters wax up?
Kinda what I figured too. Lots of rain with cold air the last few days. It ran better as the air warmed up. Pulls better than ever, now.
 
engine oil shouldn't plug up the filters, the lube oil filter is usually like 8-10 micron and the fuel filters are usually something like 15 and 8 pri/sec

Maybe the cold front that came through made the filters wax up?
Cops can't tell if it's offroad diesel when its carbon oil black. Mix up that waste oil tax free blend. :laughing: :usa:
 
Oh, yeah. I need to fix the gauge cluster(fuck). They turn on when they feel like it, which is about 30% of the truck's run time. I've read that they tend to short and/or the solder joints break.
 
Oh, yeah. I need to fix the gauge cluster(fuck). They turn on when they feel like it, which is about 30% of the truck's run time. I've read that they tend to short and/or the solder joints break.
if it's like my 89 was, check where the connector mounts to the PCB for the guages.
all the joints broken.
 
Oh, yeah. I need to fix the gauge cluster(fuck). They turn on when they feel like it, which is about 30% of the truck's run time. I've read that they tend to short and/or the solder joints break.
I need to get a cluster too. Mines got all sorts of funky guage action, stuff spinning around like a cartoon. :laughing:
 
if it's like my 89 was, check where the connector mounts to the PCB for the guages.
all the joints broken.
Every video goes straight for the solder joints on the green connector. I might get antsy enough tonight to go grab an iron and get after it.
I need to get a cluster too. Mines got all sorts of funky guage action, stuff spinning around like a cartoon. :laughing:
Mine does that on occasion. Mostly non-operational gauges, but sometimes they freeze in place or twitch a little.
 
Got nowhere today. Truck would die every time I started it. It was cold and the fuel pressure regulator ball is known for getting stuck when cold. Fuel would flow out but not spray out of the test port when it would run at all. It fired up and ran later on as it warmed up.

I have a fuel pump and pressure regulator on the way. Had to ebay those as the dealer wanted over ten times as much as anyone else.

I think I'm going to order some Glowshift gauges for it. Don't care for all the fancy, colorful dancing that they do, but for the price, they work well. Monitoring HPOP and fuel pressure is a necessity.

Also need to yank all the fuel lines to reroute and hook the primary filter back up. The MODOT guys cut the lines and bypassed the water/fuel separator.
 
Got nowhere today. Truck would die every time I started it. It was cold and the fuel pressure regulator ball is known for getting stuck when cold. Fuel would flow out but not spray out of the test port when it would run at all. It fired up and ran later on as it warmed up.

I have a fuel pump and pressure regulator on the way. Had to ebay those as the dealer wanted over ten times as much as anyone else.

I think I'm going to order some Glowshift gauges for it. Don't care for all the fancy, colorful dancing that they do, but for the price, they work well. Monitoring HPOP and fuel pressure is a necessity.

Also need to yank all the fuel lines to reroute and hook the primary filter back up. The MODOT guys cut the lines and bypassed the water/fuel separator.
Sure seems like the nickel and dimes are going to add up relative to just fixing the pickup truck.
 
Sure seems like the nickel and dimes are going to add up relative to just fixing the pickup truck.
Indeed they are, but I'm also fixing the Ford, unfortunately. Maybe even my Subaru as well. Seems I need a backup vehicle that isn't of a Navistar design.
 
Tonight's the night to solder. Looks to me like a few of the green connector joints are cracked.

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My parts, fittings, and gauges arrived at the post office today.... an hour away from the hotel. Truck would crank a bit, fire up, then slowly sputter until it died every time. Gonna drop my wife off at work in the morning then go retrieve my goodies. I have got to have some functioning metering devices on this heap.
 
Got all the fittings and sensors installed along with wiring ran and gauges hooked up. The gauges are just temporarily dangling for the moment. Put the stock cluster back in, too. Everything appears to work, although the fuel gauge keeps showing just above empty while the tank is full.

I'll trying cranking tomorrow. Didn't want to do that outside the hotel at this time of night. Forecast is calling for strong storms, so I'll have to keep an eye out on breaks in the rain if I need to change out the fuel pump.
 
On to the oil side. Fuel pressure is fine.

HPOP gauge flutters. I unplugged the IPR the other day and got no improvement. Although the injector bore surface machining is rough enough the eat up o-rings, those should be good for a while. The ICP sensor sure looked like it was leaking oil out of the wiring plug, and because it's a cheap swap, I think I'll change that out as they're know to cause random oil pressure. If that doesn't fix it, I'd say an oil pump vane is toast.
 
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Here I was thinking the 7.3/7.6 HPOP was a vane or gerotor type pump.

Piston pumps are cool. Wonder if there's rebuild kits for them

I'm leaning towards the problem being electrical. I have a Motorcraft ICP sensor on the way from Riffraff. Good place to start as it was obviously blown. If that doesn't fix it, I'll be inspecting the IPR valve and checking the oil level in the reservoir.
 
If the ICP sensor is causing a no start typically unplugging it gives the computer max psi false reading allowing it to start . I don’t know your situation and you may already know that but wanted to pass that information . If you tell me a bit about your symptoms I’ve spent a lot of time wrenching on 7.3s.
 
If the ICP sensor is causing a no start typically unplugging it gives the computer max psi false reading allowing it to start . I don’t know your situation and you may already know that but wanted to pass that information . If you tell me a bit about your symptoms I’ve spent a lot of time wrenching on 7.3s.
That I do know. It's on tomorrow's to-do list. On the 7.6, you have to remove three nuts that hold the ECM plate on valve cover studs in order to access the ICP as it's directly underneath that plate. Super easy access otherwise. I saw the oil pouring out of it when I pulled the plug to stick the GlowShift piggyback harness in.

Much of the problem can be seen and heard in the gauge video I posted. The more I go out to start it, the longer I have to crank it before it fires. It'll then fire right up and gradually but evenly sputter more and more until it struggles to stay running.

Edit: I also realize that the HPOP gauge is displaying what the ICP puts out. I'd like to see what the pressure is doing with a mechanical gauge. Mechanical gauges would be much preferred, but I'm not going to stick 3,000+ psi in the cab.
 
I’m going to crash for the night but not near enough info in the video . Would love to see the HPOP readings live data on something like IDS. However , I have a bad feeling your injectors needed more than just o-rings .
 
I’m going to crash for the night but not near enough info in the video . Would love to see the HPOP readings live data on something like IDS. However , I have a bad feeling your injectors needed more than just o-rings .
I had the same feeling. Just didn't have the time to do it all. I was pushing to get the truck back on the road so that we could pick up materials and get moved down here. That's kicking me in the ass right now.

I've got the next four days with a ride and time to poke around at this, weather permitting.
 
Messed with it today. Unplugged the ICP and tried it a few times. It would crank a bit and then fire once. I have an IPR on the way and a socket ready to pull the old one off. Old coil measured an even 9 ohms which seems to be in spec. Shall see.
 
You need to be able to see live data something fierce !
Yeah. I'm not sure on what yet. From what I understand, an IDS won't work on this. It has the round data link plug that supposedly only works with something or other Navistar. I'll try finding out for sure. Seriously doubt I can afford what it will take to do so, but research will tell.
 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N...d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams Down below it shows the adapter to hook to big trucks . I’ve always had factory diagnostics at work and for whatever reason I can’t think of the aftermarket software out other shops use right now . But , you might look into that link some more I’ve never used it but I’d give it a try for that kind of money .
Fuck Amazon. But regardless, I'll give it a whirl.

Guess this is a 9-pin.
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you needs you an inline-pump 466 to dump in there
Very much yes. I've been browsing for those and mechanical Cummins engines to swap. Every truck I come across in the area that has them ends up selling for at least double what I can spend. Bunch hooey.
 
It appears to be the same . I love Amazon I’ve tried to hate it but it’s saved me thousands and thousands of dollars .
Got it ordered. Ebay has saved me about $2k on the truck parts, so far. Not that I care to support them either, but a cheap ass gotta do what a cheap ass gotta do. If the scanner does what it needs to, :beer:.
 
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