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A-Salt truck. 2002 International 4900

Sorta meaningless post. Posting it anyway.

Back when I was talking about the radiator fan kicking on frequently, I think I mentioned that the AC compressor light would turn on at the same time as the fan. I've been watching it again. The light and compressor would turn on every time I started up the truck (rad fan always kicks on upon startup) I'd get a whiff of PAG oil, too.

Started the vid just before the compressor and fan turned off, but you still see it. I cut the red jumper wire out, but am still wondering why they jumped the fan clutch and compressor clutch together.

 
JNHEscher said:
Sorta meaningless post. Posting it anyway.

Back when I was talking about the radiator fan kicking on frequently, I think I mentioned that the AC compressor light would turn on at the same time as the fan. I've been watching it again. The light and compressor would turn on every time I started up the truck (rad fan always kicks on upon startup) I'd get a whiff of PAG oil, too.

Started the vid just before the compressor and fan turned off, but you still see it. I cut the red jumper wire out, but am still wondering why they jumped the fan clutch and compressor clutch together.

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This was a municipal truck, right? I can just about guarantee that they did that so that when they were parked napping with the engine idling and the AC running at "break time" the fan would move air across the condenser when the AC compressor was running, otherwise the AC isn't as effective and they might not cool down enough to be comfortable with 4-6 guys in the cab of the truck on a hot day.

To do it right, put a relay in so that when the AC compressor kicks in it turns the fan on, but the fan turning on does not turn on the AC compressor (in some cases they used a pressure switch on the inlet of the condenser to turn the fan on when the condenser inlet pressure went over X PSI).

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
This was a municipal truck, right? I can just about guarantee that they did that so that when they were parked napping with the engine idling and the AC running at "break time" the fan would move air across the condenser when the AC compressor was running, otherwise the AC isn't as effective and they might not cool down enough to be comfortable with 4-6 guys in the cab of the truck on a hot day.

To do it right, put a relay in so that when the AC compressor kicks in it turns the fan on, but the fan turning on does not turn on the AC compressor (in some cases they used a pressure switch on the inlet of the condenser to turn the fan on when the condenser inlet pressure went over X PSI).

Aaron Z
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That hadn't occurred to me. Likely the correct reason for it. Any smaller vehicle I've napped in with the AC one would high idle and automatically kick the rad fan on. I guess these trucks aren't equipped to do the same from the factory.

The condenser was crumbling as badly as the radiator, so I took it out. There was no refrigerant in the system anyway. The compressor won't last long running without oil circulating in a closed system.
 
Today's shenanigans. Hope to get it out tomorrow.

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JNHEscher said:
Today's shenanigans. Hope to get it out tomorrow.

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I see a real early morning roll out and hope the ground had frozen! Trick I was taught chain the axle to the frame jack it up and pile brush under the tires and set it back down rinse and repeat on all 4
 
bigun said:
I see a real early morning roll out and hope the ground had frozen! Trick I was taught chain the axle to the frame jack it up and pile brush under the tires and set it back down rinse and repeat on all 4
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That's what I was working on today. Kept sinking. Strapped logs to the tires, too. Right side log kept blowing off. Grabbed more chains tonight. Gonna get shitty with it tomorrow.
 
JNHEscher said:
That's what I was working on today. Kept sinking. Strapped logs to the tires, too. Right side log kept blowing off. Grabbed more chains tonight. Gonna get shitty with it tomorrow.
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Reminds me of when the snow plow shoved all the snow (Remember Snow) down behind where mom parked her pickup a month latter she left in the morning came back in the afternoon the ground had thawed an the ol ford F-250 sunk to the frame. Well my buddy came over with his blazer on 40s and ripped up the ground trying to pull it out. I got home that night did like I told you waited till about three in the morning mom got in the pickup and I ran a strap to my E-350 4 wheel drive ex school bus and eased her out pretty as you please. Craig showed up the next morning with the idea he was going to get her out and couldn't believe I had done it without brute force.
 
tire chains and stacking up deadfall under the tires
channel iron for under the jack

kinda shit that makes you want a winch, but they never seem to come up for cheap nowadays
 
It's out. Got the extra chains so I could hook the hand holes on the duals and use that as spools. Crawled right out. Leaving it parked for now as I can't move it uphill without digging more ruts.

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And there's the ruts from the front tires sinking in. Four more days of rain down here starting tomorrow.

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[486] said:
fill in the holes before they fill with water
want the runoff to run off
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We were earlier. Running back and forth to pick up a shed kit right now. The location where my truck sunk is where the most water collects. I'll have to pack a lot of base rock on there and o0en up some better drainage.
 
Thought we'd go get gravel. Went to test the gate before leaving and the hooks wouldn't lift enough to let the gate swing open. Replaced all the pins and added some bushings to take out the slop in the linkages. Hooks still don't clear the gate pins.

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The rain started as I was finishing up. In the rush to pack my tools back into the truck, I locked the keys in it. Might be spending tomorrow morning figuring out if I can poke a coat hanger down to hook a lock.
 
Pry bar and coat hanger from Wally World did the trick. Finishing tonight off with a stiff drink.
 
Got my V series switch and rocker orders in. The custom rockers from OTR are very nice. But, wouldn't ya know it, two of the Carling switches were already broken. One with the rocker intact rattles and doesn't make contact. The other is missing the rocker and the ears to mount it are busted off. You would think that the people packing this stuff would notice something like that.

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Made it with another materials load. Took it easy down the road, but the osb still shifted.

I'm hoping to figure out what to do with the gate release mechanism tomorrow. Gravel is needed something fierce.

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JNHEscher said:
Made it with another materials load. Took it easy down the road, but the osb still shifted.

I'm hoping to figure out what to do with the gate release mechanism tomorrow. Gravel is needed something fierce.

20220325_182932.jpg
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You put gravel in what you driving on your just wasting money. You need to strip the topsoil bulid it up with full or breaker stone then put gravel down. Gravel needs to be higher than surrounding ground so you can crown it to keep the water off.

You dump the gravel on the topsoil it will just pump up through it in a year or two. Do it right once or spend your lifetime fixing it .

If your gonna ignore my advice, just buy 3” clear and spread it on top and pound it in. Repeat until it stops pounding in. Then put the fine 1 1/4 or 3/4 dense base on the top.
 
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ThePanzerFuhrer said:
If your gonna ignore my advice, just buy 3” clear and spread it on top and pound it in. Repeat until it stops pounding in. Then put the fine 1 1/4 or 3/4 dense base on the top.
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Not intentionally trying to ignore any advice, but the plan is to put 3" clear base down on top of what's there. I'm aware that I'll have to repeat this until I can lay down 3/4" on top. That spot where I sunk in is going to be a bastard. Might end up trenching across and dropping in some bigger rock.
 
JNHEscher said:
Not intentionally trying to ignore any advice, but the plan is to put 3" clear base down on top of what's there. I'm aware that I'll have to repeat this until I can lay down 3/4" on top. That spot where I sunk in is going to be a bastard. Might end up trenching across and dropping in some bigger rock.
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Unless you put a foot of 3” down and it on top of fabric, expect to have mud boiling up through it every spring. It’s probably the worse thing you could possibly do is to build a road on top of topsoil.

Do what your budget allows, as a guy whose done this shit my entire life I have seen what happens. I’m also the guy who gets screamed at because my gravel “failed”, when in reality they didn’t listen and dumped it on the topsoil.
 
JNHEscher said:
Not intentionally trying to ignore any advice, but the plan is to put 3" clear base down on top of what's there. I'm aware that I'll have to repeat this until I can lay down 3/4" on top. That spot where I sunk in is going to be a bastard. Might end up trenching across and dropping in some bigger rock.
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If there's some place where the water is trying to flow across and you have a lower point within reasonable distance, you might be better off putting in some drain tile to let the water run under the road and then put rock over that.

Aaron Z
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Unless you put a foot of 3” down and it on top of fabric, expect to have mud boiling up through it every spring. It’s probably the worse thing you could possibly do is to build a road on top of topsoil.

Do what your budget allows, as a guy whose done this shit my entire life I have seen what happens. I’m also the guy who gets screamed at because my gravel “failed”, when in reality they didn’t listen and dumped it on the topsoil.
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I though I had read that this stuff is your biz.

Much of what we're doing on the property is very much budget-wise and as DIY as possible. And I'm not one to point a finger at anyone who's not at fault. We'll lay more rock when we need it.

aczlan said:
If there's some place where the water is trying to flow across and you have a lower point within reasonable distance, you might be better off putting in some drain tile to let the water run under the road and then put rock over that.

Aaron Z
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That's a possibility as long as it can support a loaded dump truck. TBD.

The mud pit is where the drive hooks a little and happens to be a point that collects water. I need to knock down to soil on the drain side of it to let water run off better.
 
JNHEscher said:
That's a possibility as long as it can support a loaded dump truck. TBD.

The mud pit is where the drive hooks a little and happens to be a point that collects water. I need to knock down to soil on the drain side of it to let water run off better.
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Worst case, 6 inch schedule 40 with at least 8-10 in over the top shouldn't have any problem supporting a loaded dump truck.
Or if you can get enough depth to get 18 to 24 inches of cover over something bigger you should be able to run anything you want over it.

Aaron Z
 
dig a hole somewhere in the property once it dries up a bit
see how deep you gotta go to get clay or sand, might be able to get something miles better for your road base without buying it

I know my yard is clay under at max a couple feet of dirt/manure so I've been digging that out and mixing in stone that I buy as it gets spread out on the road. It all hammers together and in a couple years it'll be compacted better.
 
[486] said:
dig a hole somewhere in the property once it dries up a bit
see how deep you gotta go to get clay or sand, might be able to get something miles better for your road base without buying it

I know my yard is clay under at max a couple feet of dirt/manure so I've been digging that out and mixing in stone that I buy as it gets spread out on the road. It all hammers together and in a couple years it'll be compacted better.
Click to expand...
I'll be keeping that in mind. If this year is anything like a typical wet spring/summer in MO., we won't see dry soil until July or August. Because we didn't feel like shelling out the funds for dozer work, I planned on dropping layer after layer of clean base until it becomes stable.
 
JNHEscher said:
I'll be keeping that in mind. If this year is anything like a typical wet spring/summer in MO., we won't see dry soil until July or August. Because we didn't feel like shelling out the funds for dozer work, I planned on dropping layer after layer of clean base until it becomes stable.
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well, I've moved a fuckton of dirt now with just a normal size (773) skidsteer
I'd really rec getting one, even with just the bucket and forks it's way handy once you figure out how to drive it without instantly high-centering
 
[486] said:
well, I've moved a fuckton of dirt now with just a normal size (773) skidsteer
I'd really rec getting one, even with just the bucket and forks it's way handy once you figure out how to drive it without instantly high-centering
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Also $$$$ for anything in close to running condition.

When I was looking it seemed like the only budget option was 1960s stuff that needed an engine for which a ~20hp Predator was a sufficient replacement. I'm sure prices are higher now.
 
oh it was 6500 with a hole in the block
still ran so I could test everything out though
I brazed up the hole in the block and had the one journal on the crank ground for one pair of new bearings, ebay rod and reused the piston missing half its skirt, you know typical big-name top dollar rebuild job
every pin is shagged out and the tires are somewhat bald but chains makes that a non-issue

Still the best most expensive non-land thing I've ever bought
 
arse_sidewards said:
Also $$$$ for anything in close to running condition.

When I was looking it seemed like the only budget option was 1960s stuff that needed an engine for which a ~20hp Predator was a sufficient replacement. I'm sure prices are higher now.
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You have to keep your eyes open and jump on the deal when it comes along. Back in september, I bought a 1980s John Deere 125 skid loader with less than 1,000 hours on it, a freshly rebuilt carburetor, rebuilt hydraulic cylinders, and a fresh service for $4,000. The only thing that does not work on the machine is the fuel gauge, and there is a small oil leak from one of the oil filter adapter lines.
 
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