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gt1guy
Apparently a racist
That's really cool. Interested to hear how you like it when it's up and running.
I got some of my stuff back, oil pan, sensors, some gaskets, barbell(oil diverter), timing chain and gear, front cover, old head bolts and the kid said he had my cam(forgot it) and my 862 heads and he thinks my transmission may be in Lincoln. So he didn't know the heads were mine, although I had mentioned it at least once and sent him a list and last night he was to text me the tranny builders number, but he didn't!!!!!
We agreed he'd keep looking for my parts and would stay in touch. He didn't meet me at the storage unit and I'm not sure he will and I told him that was pretty low to treat guy who gave your dad thousands of dollars and my own paid for parts to treat me like that. I sent him another list and a list with pics of receipts, texts and credit card charges to prove my side. I also told him I'd take pistons, bearings, etc to help offset the money I paid, but I still needed my parts, which is basically a whole motor{not the block since I found it and have it) without the intake and front accessories, because right now I can't even put my motor together because I'm missing a ton of stuff. We shall see, but the kid was calm and so were his brothers, but his brother-in-law was getting a bit puffy chested at times. I, at times was hot, but not abusive, but again we ended that we would communicate and he would get me parts as he found them. So I still can't do squat with my motor, because I don't know if I'll get some over-bore pistons from him and bearings and such for the short block build or do I have to buy some (again) and eat money again unless I just move forward and if I get stuff back I sell it.
So onto what I'm up to on the truck. I'm working on plumbing the Viking air tank and mounting it, because I'm tired of wiring stuff. I'll take pics once I get it installed. I'll have one port accessible to plug into that goes through the driver's side bed, so you can access it without having to climb up to get to the tank in the bed. I have two outlets right at the tank and off the bottom through the bed will be another two ports(future air lockers if I ever decide to do that) and the drain valve. I still don't know how I'm going to get air to the tank because I don't have the A/C bracket or A/C compressor, my intent from day one was to use it as the compressor, but now I'm not sure if I'll do that or not, so I have a decision to make, but I'm leaning towards using an electric compressor. I just need to figure out how much they are these days and which one.
We agreed he'd keep looking for my parts and would stay in touch. He didn't meet me at the storage unit and I'm not sure he will and I told him that was pretty low to treat guy who gave your dad thousands of dollars and my own paid for parts to treat me like that. I sent him another list and a list with pics of receipts, texts and credit card charges to prove my side. I also told him I'd take pistons, bearings, etc to help offset the money I paid, but I still needed my parts, which is basically a whole motor{not the block since I found it and have it) without the intake and front accessories, because right now I can't even put my motor together because I'm missing a ton of stuff. We shall see, but the kid was calm and so were his brothers, but his brother-in-law was getting a bit puffy chested at times. I, at times was hot, but not abusive, but again we ended that we would communicate and he would get me parts as he found them. So I still can't do squat with my motor, because I don't know if I'll get some over-bore pistons from him and bearings and such for the short block build or do I have to buy some (again) and eat money again unless I just move forward and if I get stuff back I sell it.So onto what I'm up to on the truck. I'm working on plumbing the Viking air tank and mounting it, because I'm tired of wiring stuff. I'll take pics once I get it installed. I'll have one port accessible to plug into that goes through the driver's side bed, so you can access it without having to climb up to get to the tank in the bed. I have two outlets right at the tank and off the bottom through the bed will be another two ports(future air lockers if I ever decide to do that) and the drain valve. I still don't know how I'm going to get air to the tank because I don't have the A/C bracket or A/C compressor, my intent from day one was to use it as the compressor, but now I'm not sure if I'll do that or not, so I have a decision to make, but I'm leaning towards using an electric compressor. I just need to figure out how much they are these days and which one.
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Will Scarlet
The universe is vast...
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Member Number
- 766
- Messages
- 1,661
Well, at least it's still progress and the kid seems to doing right. Good luck with the rest... 
Good luck man. At least he's working with you. I hope it all goes smoothly.
I texted him this morning and he said he was sorry he forgot to get me the tranny builder's name and number last night and then he sent it. So that was good and tomorrow I hope to find out if it's there and rebuilt and was it paid for or not paid for or there and not rebuilt or did the guy sell it to get his money back for rebuilding it and not getting paid or was it never delivered!! Then that will be crossed off the list to let me know how to proceed tranny wise.
Looks like the VIAir 480c gen 2 may be a good option or fork out more for the ARB twin compressor or try the Chinese ARB knock off, but I'll have to research that to see if there's any real life info on it.
Looks like the VIAir 480c gen 2 may be a good option or fork out more for the ARB twin compressor or try the Chinese ARB knock off, but I'll have to research that to see if there's any real life info on it.
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So now the kid says his dad sold the transmission after I called the guy who rebuilt it and told me it was the only 4x4 4L80e Tranny he had done for the guy and it was picked up in Dec. Seems a bit shady that within seconds he knows this and before he had no clue.
I’m meeting the kid tonight to get some more of my parts.
My heat level is rising again.
I’m meeting the kid tonight to get some more of my parts.
My heat level is rising again.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
That kid probably has guys trying to scam him and getting free parts that don't belong to them.
Yea or like me trying to get other parts to cover their losses, which hasn't been successful. So I met him and the 3 brothers and brother-in-law at the same place and got my 862 heads(looks like my new Pac Springs, but I'm leary about them now since he sold my tranny and who knows whatever else) without rocker arms or pushrods, my camshaft, some cleaned-up Gen IV rods and new Clevite Rod bearings and that's it. I didn't say much, except we need to get to the end of this, cuz meeting every 3-4 days sucks. He said he'd keep looking for my parts, but I just have this feeling now that he knows what he has there. As I was leaving I said I'd text him the updated list with crossed-off stuff except I did write STOLEN next to my transmission and torque converter and now the kid has blocked me on messenger. So things may start to turn to what I was hoping not to do, but we shall see if I can get someone to talk to here in the next couple of days.
So now I pretty much have to believe I'll get nothing more back and I'll have to make some decisions---sell everything and rebuild the old '92 5.7 but then I need to buy an intake system for it and do I rebuild the earlier 4l80e I have or buy a later 4l80e and rebuild it or do I just try and get my 6.0 rebuilt to the minimum like I said above and buy another later 4l80e and have it rebuilt. But then I have to buy parts just to put the motor together, since I'm missing stuff. Fuck, it royally pisses me off typing this as either way I'm screwed over on the money and parts.
I could buy another 6.0 and tranny that's available then sell off everything I don't use, but that's a hassle, but I'd have a newer tranny and a motor to rob the small parts off of, or I could just shove it in with the blower and see what blows up and then cry later when I have to rebuild the tranny or motor or shove it in and run it til it dies. But with my luck that would be 2 weeks!!!
I guess a run to U-Pull-it may be in order too to see what I can find for the small engine parts.
I will say the heads are really clean and the valves look new and that made me happy and getting the cam was a help too. Saturday the head bolts I got turned out to be ARP's but they are used and I'm not sure I got enough of them. I need to go down and count them to see.
I got to stop the bitchin and get to makin' some decisions.
So now I pretty much have to believe I'll get nothing more back and I'll have to make some decisions---sell everything and rebuild the old '92 5.7 but then I need to buy an intake system for it and do I rebuild the earlier 4l80e I have or buy a later 4l80e and rebuild it or do I just try and get my 6.0 rebuilt to the minimum like I said above and buy another later 4l80e and have it rebuilt. But then I have to buy parts just to put the motor together, since I'm missing stuff. Fuck, it royally pisses me off typing this as either way I'm screwed over on the money and parts.
I could buy another 6.0 and tranny that's available then sell off everything I don't use, but that's a hassle, but I'd have a newer tranny and a motor to rob the small parts off of, or I could just shove it in with the blower and see what blows up and then cry later when I have to rebuild the tranny or motor or shove it in and run it til it dies. But with my luck that would be 2 weeks!!!
I guess a run to U-Pull-it may be in order too to see what I can find for the small engine parts.
I will say the heads are really clean and the valves look new and that made me happy and getting the cam was a help too. Saturday the head bolts I got turned out to be ARP's but they are used and I'm not sure I got enough of them. I need to go down and count them to see.
I got to stop the bitchin and get to makin' some decisions.
Started re-ordering parts that I'll have to use no matter what I do and if by chance the kid comes through and contacts me that he has more of my stuff then I'll deal with that then. Right now I'm not going to buy another motor, just have the machinist bore mine and have him install crank, pistons, cam bearings and freeze plugs and I'll take it from there. I'll just keep buying what I need to put the motor together when I get it back. I'm going to have the machinist check the valve springs though, because I'm a bit leary about them. The used ARP head bolts the kid gave me aren't for my heads, so I had to buy the correct ones. I was on the fence if I should use them or not, but the decision was made for me. I hope to take the motor and parts to the machinist that he will need next week once the parts I ordered get here.
Picked up a 2006 4l80e this morning to replace the one that was stolen. Yesterday I perused 4 junk yards for a later 4L80e, but came up empty, so I had to drop more coin for this one, but I need one, so it is what it is. I’m hoping to drop it off tomorrow to the guy I originally was going to have build it until my thief of a tranny/engine guy made me a deal I couldn’t refuse. Oh how that’s gonna cost me across the board!!!
Engine parts are filtering in too, so hopefully next Friday I’m dropping off the motor to the new machinist.
Is it possible to be excitedly happy, but yet pissed?
Engine parts are filtering in too, so hopefully next Friday I’m dropping off the motor to the new machinist.
Is it possible to be excitedly happy, but yet pissed?
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Makes it easier to view.
got the driver's side pre welded in....and a pic to prove it🖕😃🖕
Will Scarlet
The universe is vast...
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Member Number
- 766
- Messages
- 1,661
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Sometimes I'm pissed because I'm happy
Great to hear there's forward progress again. Once it's running, all the BS you went through will be forgotten and just turn into campfire stories.
Great to hear there's forward progress again. Once it's running, all the BS you went through will be forgotten and just turn into campfire stories.
Motor delivered to machinist--going .030 over now vs the .060 before and doing a valve job on the 317 heads--2 months out, so maybe the end of July I'll have it back. Stock crank, Gen lV rods, forged pistons, better valves, lifter trunnion kit and elgin 1840p cam and the M122 supercharger is where I'm at right now. Next upgrade would be H-beam rods and then a crank and then different heads, but since my monetary output for those things has taken a hit they probably won't happen and probably don't need to happen, but we shall see as time passes and before he starts on my block work who knows if I change my mind.
Oh yea ARP main studs, ARP rod bolts, ARP head bolts and seems I bought some ARP bolts for the cam and timing gear. Oh yea I got a billet double roller timing gear/chain and a Melling M295 oil pump. SFI rated flex plate and ARP bolts for that too. Not sure what I have overlooked to keep it all together at 700-800hp. I'm all ears if you guys see something that I'm missing or question any of the parts.
Oh yea ARP main studs, ARP rod bolts, ARP head bolts and seems I bought some ARP bolts for the cam and timing gear. Oh yea I got a billet double roller timing gear/chain and a Melling M295 oil pump. SFI rated flex plate and ARP bolts for that too. Not sure what I have overlooked to keep it all together at 700-800hp. I'm all ears if you guys see something that I'm missing or question any of the parts.
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Anyone know about building a 4l80e? What upgrades are smart or which ones are for all-out racing and such? I've seen the accumulator delete, the dual feed, Torrington bearing stuff, but when should you do these and at what point do you think about billet parts and are there things I'm missing? I figure I'll be somewhere between 650-800 engine HP, so does a "factory rebuild" suffice or ??
Ok, just been tinkering and buying small parts and damn that shit adds up. I did sand the hood down to bare metal and then painted it with bedliner and will figure out if it gets painted red or whatever. I had been dreading sanding it, cuz I thought it was going to take forever and be a pain, but it only took me about 6-7 hrs to do it, so it wasn't that bad in the end, just lots of elbow grease and one double sanding 3M Scotch Brite Paint & Rust Stripper in a 4" disc in my drill. Thing is made out of some kind of hard plastic stuff that looks kind of like lava rock. It's the best I've found to use when you don't have a decent sandblaster and going through 5-6 coats of paint and some bondo.
So I've decided I'm going to put the radiator in the bed, so out will come the air tank and it will get relocated. I'm going down today to buy a whole front core support with radiator and fans and tranny and oil coolers(I'm not sure I'll run the coolers, need to think about that and see if I have room and I've already have coolers for those) out of a 6.0 Chevy for $200 and five 42" IROK(I think) tires on 16" TR beadlocks for $1600 with a ton of meat left on them. I shouldn't really be spending money on tires, but I want 42"s or 44"s and these are a great deal and within 40 minutes, so I'm doing it, plus I will probably sell my 5 Pitbull 39.5" on 17" beadlocks, so I'll recoup and maybe make some money. Famous last words.
Shout out to MackDaddyParts.com , Doug, for passing on knowledge about the M122 supercharger. With his help I'm ready to slap this thing on my motor (when I get it) and not have too many hiccups.
I still need to buy some 1 3/4" tube headers and I'm itching to get that off my plate, but I'm going to try and wait and see what issues I may run into once the motor is in the truck. I have the stock manifolds, so those will be the first fit up and from there I can figure out if the headers will be a pain in the butt to make work or not. Of course if I run into a killer deal on some shorty or block huggers I may pull the trigger.
Ok it's off to get the radiator and tires, oh yea I made myself a template for 8 x 6.5 bolt pattern to check the bolt pattern of the TR Beadlocks to make sure they will bolt up.
So I've decided I'm going to put the radiator in the bed, so out will come the air tank and it will get relocated. I'm going down today to buy a whole front core support with radiator and fans and tranny and oil coolers(I'm not sure I'll run the coolers, need to think about that and see if I have room and I've already have coolers for those) out of a 6.0 Chevy for $200 and five 42" IROK(I think) tires on 16" TR beadlocks for $1600 with a ton of meat left on them. I shouldn't really be spending money on tires, but I want 42"s or 44"s and these are a great deal and within 40 minutes, so I'm doing it, plus I will probably sell my 5 Pitbull 39.5" on 17" beadlocks, so I'll recoup and maybe make some money. Famous last words.
Shout out to MackDaddyParts.com , Doug, for passing on knowledge about the M122 supercharger. With his help I'm ready to slap this thing on my motor (when I get it) and not have too many hiccups.
I still need to buy some 1 3/4" tube headers and I'm itching to get that off my plate, but I'm going to try and wait and see what issues I may run into once the motor is in the truck. I have the stock manifolds, so those will be the first fit up and from there I can figure out if the headers will be a pain in the butt to make work or not. Of course if I run into a killer deal on some shorty or block huggers I may pull the trigger.
Ok it's off to get the radiator and tires, oh yea I made myself a template for 8 x 6.5 bolt pattern to check the bolt pattern of the TR Beadlocks to make sure they will bolt up.
Ok, my kid, Branson, and I got the 42"s temporarily on the truck to test them for leaks as they were low. There's one you don't see that has a plug that's leaking so I'll take it into a tire shop tomorrow and let them have it. I need longer lug nuts wouldn't you know it, that's why they are temp installed.
So then we tore into the radiator as the support was bent and after a good hour of not enough luck to get it straightened out we broke it all down and started hacking and temp reassemble to the size to fit in the bed. HInd sight, I should've just tore it apart and started hacking, oh well again let's make a project longer than it needs to be!! So that brings us to where we are after a few hours of more hacking and assembling today.
I need some real-world expertise on bed-mounted radiators. So tell me what you think as it sits right now. Do you think it will work for street driving? I'm on the fence and really only want to mount it once(yea right, not in my world) and be done to move on. Right now I can't tilt it anymore as it hits the fender wells, but I can always raise it up and tilt it more, but then the remaining bed space gets smaller and smaller, but sacrifices will have to be made and I know that. Now I probably have to/should build a roll bar(been debating that one for a few years) for the back to protect the fuel tank and radiator and if I do that then possibly my mounting options increase, but I'm trying to keep the back window unobstructed as much as possible.
So fire away and let me know your thoughts.
, that's why they are temp installed.So then we tore into the radiator as the support was bent and after a good hour of not enough luck to get it straightened out we broke it all down and started hacking and temp reassemble to the size to fit in the bed. HInd sight, I should've just tore it apart and started hacking, oh well again let's make a project longer than it needs to be!! So that brings us to where we are after a few hours of more hacking and assembling today.
I need some real-world expertise on bed-mounted radiators. So tell me what you think as it sits right now. Do you think it will work for street driving? I'm on the fence and really only want to mount it once(yea right, not in my world) and be done to move on. Right now I can't tilt it anymore as it hits the fender wells, but I can always raise it up and tilt it more, but then the remaining bed space gets smaller and smaller, but sacrifices will have to be made and I know that. Now I probably have to/should build a roll bar(been debating that one for a few years) for the back to protect the fuel tank and radiator and if I do that then possibly my mounting options increase, but I'm trying to keep the back window unobstructed as much as possible.
So fire away and let me know your thoughts.
Attachments
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
I'd turn the radiator around just to make running the hoses easier. Maybe slap a couple pusher fans on it if it's turned around.
The new shoes look good on it.👍
The new shoes look good on it.👍
gt1guy--I contemplated turning it around, but then I have to buy pusher fans and my thought was the air coming over the cab should be forced right to the radiator and using the stock fans as puller fans seemed to make sense for airflow to my brain cell, but hey I can always do that later if it doesn't work or unless something else makes a ton of sense to turn it around now. As for the hose routing there may be more to that than I've thought about. Right now the lower hose on the passenger side just clears the wheel well and should go pretty close to straight down thru the bed and the upper hose on the driver side may have to snake a 45* bend in it to get it to go thru the bed, but you know what I haven't looked to see what frame members may be in the way, so tonight I'll scope that out.
42's just sound cooler
when talking tire size!
42's just sound cooler
when talking tire size!So in preparation for the radiator moving to the bed and while I'm waiting for the motor and transmission I decided I should build a mount for the oil cooler and inner cooler to stay ahead of the game. I also mounted the power steering cooler.
So my first attempt was to mount it to the grill as I had the oil cooler mounted there already, but it turned out it was too tall and the ports were top and bottom vs on the side(which I preferred, but if it would've fit I may have left it attached to the grill, but it didn't so phase 2 took over.
The inner cooler is water to air. The middle piece is 1/2" x 1 1/2" and is supported down to the cross member. I will probably add another support to the front of it down to the cross member as my thinking is I may use it to assist in protecting the front of the grill and motor and running tube from it to the shock towers once the engine goes in. Trying to keep options open at this point and it needs to be removable so the motor can slide in.
I also tilted the radiator more and started to fab the mounts for it, but the rain came, so it's not done and no pics yet.
So my first attempt was to mount it to the grill as I had the oil cooler mounted there already, but it turned out it was too tall and the ports were top and bottom vs on the side(which I preferred, but if it would've fit I may have left it attached to the grill, but it didn't so phase 2 took over.
The inner cooler is water to air. The middle piece is 1/2" x 1 1/2" and is supported down to the cross member. I will probably add another support to the front of it down to the cross member as my thinking is I may use it to assist in protecting the front of the grill and motor and running tube from it to the shock towers once the engine goes in. Trying to keep options open at this point and it needs to be removable so the motor can slide in.
I also tilted the radiator more and started to fab the mounts for it, but the rain came, so it's not done and no pics yet.
Attachments
Picking up the tranny tomorrow morning
. The builder told me it will handle 1000 hp no problem and I have an email into Circle D about the torque converter, so once I have the particulars(stall speed) worked out I'll be ordering it. So that's a good step in the right direction.
Now the radiator. I've been tinkering, cutting & welding metal for mounts, but I stepped back last night & took a look and a couple of mounts aren't running perpendicular to the radiator for some reason. I've squared things up, but the original core support top and bottom that I kept & that are still slightly bent must be causing me issues, so tomorrow it's coming out and I'm re-assessing those parts to see if they are bent more than I thought and to see if I can straighten them or do I have to build a new support that's square.
On another note concerning the tranny cooler ports coming off the radiator, I want to remove them and install an AN fitting in them, but of course my luck in finding the correct fitting has led me to buying the 3rd set of fittings & hoping they will work. I bought the -06An to 1/2" x 20 inverted flare first as that's what everything I read was the most likely, but NOPE their too small. So, the other day I ordered set # 2 and today I received the -06Ann to 5/8" x 18 inverted flare and per par they are too big, so now I've ordered the -06 AN to 9/16" x 18 inverted flare or otherwise known as the -06AN to -06 AN inverted flare, which I feel is the correct one, as a -06AN does screw into it. They will be here Friday for the test fit and hopefully final install in prep for running the tranny cooler lines. Now I do have a separate tranny cooler in the bed of the pickup that I put in there a couple of years ago, so I need to think about if I should use it in conjunction with the radiator tranny cooler or just use the radiator tranny cooler and ditch it or just remove the fan and use it without the fan for more capacity and then use the fan up front on the inner cooler? It's more connections and I'd probably move it to in front of the radiator, but we shall see what I have for hose and fittings to make a final determination. Probably overkill to use it and I can always keep it and add it later if there's an issue with the tranny temp.
. The builder told me it will handle 1000 hp no problem and I have an email into Circle D about the torque converter, so once I have the particulars(stall speed) worked out I'll be ordering it. So that's a good step in the right direction.Now the radiator. I've been tinkering, cutting & welding metal for mounts, but I stepped back last night & took a look and a couple of mounts aren't running perpendicular to the radiator for some reason. I've squared things up, but the original core support top and bottom that I kept & that are still slightly bent must be causing me issues, so tomorrow it's coming out and I'm re-assessing those parts to see if they are bent more than I thought and to see if I can straighten them or do I have to build a new support that's square.
On another note concerning the tranny cooler ports coming off the radiator, I want to remove them and install an AN fitting in them, but of course my luck in finding the correct fitting has led me to buying the 3rd set of fittings & hoping they will work. I bought the -06An to 1/2" x 20 inverted flare first as that's what everything I read was the most likely, but NOPE their too small. So, the other day I ordered set # 2 and today I received the -06Ann to 5/8" x 18 inverted flare and per par they are too big, so now I've ordered the -06 AN to 9/16" x 18 inverted flare or otherwise known as the -06AN to -06 AN inverted flare, which I feel is the correct one, as a -06AN does screw into it. They will be here Friday for the test fit and hopefully final install in prep for running the tranny cooler lines. Now I do have a separate tranny cooler in the bed of the pickup that I put in there a couple of years ago, so I need to think about if I should use it in conjunction with the radiator tranny cooler or just use the radiator tranny cooler and ditch it or just remove the fan and use it without the fan for more capacity and then use the fan up front on the inner cooler? It's more connections and I'd probably move it to in front of the radiator, but we shall see what I have for hose and fittings to make a final determination. Probably overkill to use it and I can always keep it and add it later if there's an issue with the tranny temp.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
I went what I think was a little overkill on the size of my trans cooler. I also installed a thermostatic valve in the lines. I figure there's not much you can do on the trail to fix a smoked trans.
Those coolers in the grill should work like champs without a radiator clogging up air flow behind them.
Those coolers in the grill should work like champs without a radiator clogging up air flow behind them.
gti1guy—What thermostatic valve did you use? I never thought about using those but it may be something to think about.
Transmission is sitting in the bed of my truck
it's one expensive transmission
!!
Transmission is sitting in the bed of my truck
it's one expensive transmission!!
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gt1guy
Apparently a racist
gti1guy—What thermostatic valve did you use? I never thought about using those but it may be something to think about.
Transmission is sitting in the bed of my truck
Congrats on the expensive trans
This is what I used:
I got the FSM165 for my 6l90.
High-Flow Engine & Transmission Oil Cooler Thermostat
Improved Racing's Flow Series Motor Sport (FSM) oil thermostat is a universal solution that can be used with any oil cooler on any vehicle or industrial application flowing up to 20 GPM (75.71 LPM). Trusted by professional race teams, OEM's, and military contractors. Accelerates fluid warmup...
www.improvedracing.com
I also did the same thing with the engine cooler and ran a remote oil filter with the cooler thermostat built in. It also lets me use the big HP4 fram filter instead of the tiny stock sized filters.
Remote Engine & Transmission Oil Filter Mount with Thermostat
Patented remote oil filter mount features a built-in thermostat to save both space and cost. Internal thermostat ensures engine oil reaches safe operating temperatures quickly and prevents over-cooling. Inlet/outlet ports in standard -10AN O-ring boss threads. Optional fittings are available to...
www.improvedracing.com