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2bbs 2021 bronco build

2big bronco said:
I think im missing a refernece :confused:

Lead? They are a good friends. The was first day order with me. He told me I could have them for $650 plus a random set of 6 lug rims and id have to swap tires over. He is keeping a stock set of tires for when he brings it into the dealer.

I assume if he even wanted to it would probably cost $1000 for him to deal with it and just sell them outright.

Edit: bet he would trade for a set of skid plates, blems or whatever
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Man, I wasn’t even drunk when I typed that.

I would trade a set of skid plates in a heart beat. We just redid the entire set. :p
 
The new Bronco has become landroverish….. only the rich can afford maintenance and the new line of aftermarket parts!!!!!!!


Signed: Jeepguy!!!!!!

:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
 
Talon2006 said:
Man, I wasn’t even drunk when I typed that.

I would trade a set of skid plates in a heart beat. We just redid the entire set. :p
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Sandy Johnson ....

I was just telling Mary how im going to need help bleeding the brakes,
When Rowdy let me know that you were talking about being really good at hydrolics and brake bleading.
 
3/16 spacer in the front and heavy grinding got the front wheels to clear by a hair. A little more grinding for comfort and should be gtg. Already talked to 74weld about running me off some steel dual sheer tabs next time they are all set up.... for piece of mind.

Surprisingly my 5/8 single sheer bolts were bent to bad to come out when tearing it down. Ive never even had the steering severely bound up.
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New and old wheels are at the tire shop getting swapped around because F beadlocks.

Really glad im maling these wheels work because anything less would leave the plastic/ electronic bits of the caliper exposed
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Provience said:
All I know is they cost way too much to not have some thread insert for strength.


Yabut they've "never had issues" and "holds up to abuse" but it is entirely a service and life issue. Good enough for a race season isn't close to what a street or trail vehicle will need when it is likely to come apart less frequently and be expected to go back together without issue.

Seems like an easy step that is skipped for no reason
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Machine time isn’t no reason. On the race portals, every single hole is steel inserted. They are trying to make these trail ones more affordable. 2Big got all 4 portals for less than the two I’ve got cost me.

I’ve had one thread hole problem, used blue loctite on my caliper bolts and the insert came out with the bolt. Then when I hit a tree and bent a bolt it ruined a through hole pressed in insert when the insert spun rubbing against the uniball. Tried to get 74weld to help me get it fixed but I wasn’t willing to ship it to them and wait to get it back. Had a local machine shop help me fix it ourselves.
 
JR4X said:
Machine time isn’t no reason. On the race portals, every single hole is steel inserted. They are trying to make these trail ones more affordable. 2Big got all 4 portals for less than the two I’ve got cost me.

I’ve had one thread hole problem, used blue loctite on my caliper bolts and the insert came out with the bolt. Then when I hit a tree and bent a bolt it ruined a through hole pressed in insert when the insert spun rubbing against the uniball. Tried to get 74weld to help me get it fixed but I wasn’t willing to ship it to them and wait to get it back. Had a local machine shop help me fix it ourselves.
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makes sense, not sure if their solution is going to be to advise a lower tq spec for the studs (keep the nuts at 100lbft and use the 50ish for the studs) or otherwise toss the cheaper helicoil into those, either would work.

glad they got it taken care of, it'll just be tough if they send them out of state for example to offer the same service.

shipping is always a bummer, glad you were able to get somebody local to get it done :beer:
 
New wheels dont look as ugly as they could have. Got it down to a 1/8" spacer and an 1/8th at most of clearance.

hopefully by this time tommorow im driving over rows of 5 gallon buckets between the mall and home depot.


Next I have to figure out how to lift my travel trailer so that I can tow everything halfway level to koh. It was already ass low with a huge drop wdh without the portals.
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Definitely need 40s now :smokin:

Provience said:
I obviously don't know shit about a WDH setup, but could you just stack another 2x6 or whatever size fits and double the tongue/lift the tongue on the trailer to help out?

or an adjustable plate on the trailer side, much how the adjustable hitches are set up.


many styles, that link is for a C channel style
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Guessing you meant to link something like this?

https://www.etrailer.com/Adjustable-Trailer-Coupler/Demco/DM6125-81.html

Thats what I would do unless I wanted more clearance under the trailer. Although, I'm not sure how much difference in hitch to tonuge hieght the wd thing will tolerate.
 
Im telling myself that since the ifs drooped out when jacking it up that the scrub is keeping it from going down. It "should" be level and the back is sitting a lot lower.

I really am hoping I like it on 37s as part of convincing myself portals were a good idea was that everything upstream should see less stress then before... and id like to comfortably wheel it a little harder. Jumping up tire size would be counter productive. It may also me the time to get the 2-3" flaired fiberglass fenders that hang down a little bit to help fill the gap.


With all that said if anyone here has the hookup with bfg and wants to ket me a deal on 40x12.5x17 ko3sr, or 39x12.50x17 kr3s......
Beat95yj said:
Didja skip leg day?
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2big bronco said:
Im telling myself that since the ifs drooped out when jacking it up that the scrub is keeping it from going down. It "should" be level and the back is sitting a lot lower.

I really am hoping I like it on 37s as part of convincing myself portals were a good idea was that everything upstream should see less stress then before... and id like to comfortably wheel it a little harder. Jumping up tire size would be counter productive. It may also me the time to get the 2-3" flaired fiberglass fenders that hang down a little bit to help fill the gap.


With all that said if anyone here has the hookup with bfg and wants to ket me a deal on 40x12.5x17 ko3sr, or 39x12.50x17 kr3s......
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I don't know what a ko3sr is, but if either of those are the same compound as the non sticky kr2, don't bother. They are like plastic to be more durable for desert racing. Last rig I saw on them at Rubicon may as well have been on thorn birds. :laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I don't know what a ko3sr is, but if either of those are the same compound as the non sticky kr2, don't bother. They are like plastic to be more durable for desert racing. Last rig I saw on them at Rubicon may as well have been on thorn birds. :laughing:
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The ko3sr is the "sticky rocks" compound and thr kr3 is thier regular street tire mud terrain compound. Im very hung up on sticking with a 12.5 wide.
 
2big bronco said:
The ko3sr is the "sticky rocks" compound and thr kr3 is thier regular street tire mud terrain compound. Im very hung up on sticking with a 12.5 wide.
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I have seen the stickies in action, had kr2's. They're the same compound as red krawlers......

The kr3 in a regular street compound would be awesome.
 
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