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2bbs 2021 bronco build

20240112_170926.jpg

Where did my axle housing go?
 
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Looks pretty dang good.

Do you need to trim fenders or do you think that rolling/pulling/hanmer them would give enough clearance?
 
2big bronco said:
Good news, the tires rub and didnt before due to the increased scrub and there is absolutely no way it will clear 40s. A little trimming and ive got 1 less expensive day dream
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How do you like the gearing?

Although, im sure you probably wish it was a bit lower, it looks pretty good, and will be a total sleeper, plus having stock geometry should keep the suspension components more happy.

Maybe when those tires wear out, you'll feel froggy enough to make 39s work, which would be cool also.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
How do you like the gearing?

Although, im sure you probably wish it was a bit lower, it looks pretty good, and will be a total sleeper, plus having stock geometry should keep the suspension components more happy.

Maybe when those tires wear out, you'll feel froggy enough to make 39s work, which would be cool also.
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First thing I said was "somethings not right" and then I realized that it was just it taking off easier from a stop.

Havnt had it over 30 yet
 
YotaAtieToo said:
How much adjustment is there in the suspension? I was pretty surprised how far I could shift the tire forward on my 4runner using the lower a arm cam bolts.
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Maybe... I do need to get it alligned. Maybe I need to find a 4wd shop with a rack that understands what I want to do.

Good thinking, thanks
 
2big bronco said:
Yes and not really.... actually I hadnt considered it till you mentioned it
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Maybe it’s different on the bronco, but stock uppers seem like the first thing to go on any IFS suspension I’ve messed with. It seems like the added weight from the portals would be hard on both the upper and lower ball joints. I’m curious if the braptor uses different ones vs. the other trim packages.
 
2big bronco said:
Maybe... I do need to get it alligned. Maybe I need to find a 4wd shop with a rack that understands what I want to do.

Good thinking, thanks
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I messed with my lower bolts and aftermarket adjustable upper BJ to get the tire where I wanted it. Then asked if they could set toe and camber without messing with castor. They said sure and it seems OK, not sure if they just did it as good as they could or if it's actually right. I've had it at 80 and it's not bad, but it's also not the same as it was stock. Actually picked up a sway bar today as I had lost the brackets when I pulled it. Hopefully that may help with it driving more stock.
 
Well it drives better then it did before I tore it down. Steers nicer, rides better, gearing is back to stockish....

Except after a few miles on the freeway the service soon light pops up and it goes into reduced power mode. Shut it off and it goes away for a few miles. Doesnt do it around town so...

Brought it home and pluged in the scanner. Damn dtc's for every part I put my dick beaters on. ABS, steering, wheel speed sensors, ect.

One of them was something like right front wheel speed sensor short to ground.

Im remembering in the instructions that I was supposed to swap the front left and right wheel speed sensors and im not sure I did. Im guesing there is a tone ring on the 2nd portal gear that spins backwards.
 
2big bronco said:
Im remembering in the instructions that I was supposed to swap the front left and right wheel speed sensors and im not sure I did. Im guesing there is a tone ring on the 2nd portal gear that spins backwards.
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A single sensor doesn't know which way the tone ring is spinning unless it's a tone ring with 3+ odd teeth different distances apart or two odd teeth of different sizes.
 
arse_sidewards said:
A single sensor doesn't know which way the tone ring is spinning unless it's a tone ring with 3+ odd teeth different distances apart or two odd teeth of different sizes.
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Not sure but the instructions clearly state to swap the fronts that now mount to the portal boxes and leave the rears as is that mount to the stock location in the stock housing.
 
Well none of the codes popped back up but its still throwing a wrench light and reducing power randomly after a mile or 3.

Downloaded the ford pass app and it says "powertrain malfunction reduced power"

Made sure everything was pluged in right and unpluged the abs/wheel speed sensor with the key on and it instantly alerted me to an abs/wheel speed problem. Did this with both sides and it seems that the computer is at least aknowledging that they are plugged in right.

Friend has a million dollar scanner. May hit him up and see when he is free
 
You may need to relearn the steering position and yaw rate sensors, among other things after messing with the chassis.
 
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