2022 Ram 3500 drw, HO Diesel....What to expect?

[gt1guy]

I think DEF is more of an issue up north where we do more short runs, ideling, etc in the winter. Once the DEF has an issue it throws a code are starts a 150 mile countdown before going to 5 MPH max limp mode, so you have to go into the dealer in a hurry.

You can get a tuner like a raceme, pull the cat and DEF filter and replace with a straight pipe, and disable the EGR to get around DEF issues. Then you put the DEF and CAT back in, plug the EGR back in and return the computer to stock if you need to go into the dealer for warranty work or emissions testing. The DEF/EGR delete is supposed to add 3-4 MPG. The tuner is about $1200, pipe $250, and EGR delete ( you don't need this but it's better) is about $100.

I refuse to left stranded because of a stupid sensor isn't working right or some emission parts isn't working right. The reason I bought a 18 was the kit was available and easy to install and I knew this was an issue. Some dealers won't work a deleted truck and some will. The race site has a video on the install and how to set it back to stock. Unless you emission testing most people just delete that shit after the warranty is up.

I checked out the Raceme tuner. Blew my mind that they are from Austria. Is there even a single Ram truck there?

Question, everything is listed only up to 2021, can I assume the Raceme will work on a 2022? I've sent them a email, waiting on a response.

Ya, getting dinged with a 5mph limp mode is a hard no for me. Especially for a damn piece of emissions equipment.

Looking at straight pipes and EGR deletes right now. I may swing by the dealer and see if I can order the 50 gal fuel tank and have them install it when the truck shows up. I'm thinking if I can get them to install it, there should be no issues with warranty.

 

[Norm]

I checked out the Raceme tuner. Blew my mind that they are from Austria. Is there even a single Ram truck there?

Question, everything is listed only up to 2021, can I assume the Raceme will work on a 2022? I've sent them a email, waiting on a response.

Ya, getting dinged with a 5mph limp mode is a hard no for me. Especially for a damn piece of emissions equipment.

Looking at straight pipes and EGR deletes right now. I may swing by the dealer and see if I can order the 50 gal fuel tank and have them install it when the truck shows up. I'm thinking if I can get them to install it, there should be no issues with warranty.

Lots of people never have an issue with the DEF, but up North it seems to be a problem fairly often in winter. I tend to idle my truck 10-15 minutes to warm it up, drive short distances, and don't do any trailer towing in winter. So I do all the things that cause DEF issues about 1/2 the year. In summer I tow pretty often and make frequent 70-100 miles runs at 80 MPH which is the way it should be run all the time. You may never have a problem down south.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Lots of people never have an issue with the DEF, but up North it seems to be a problem fairly often in winter. I tend to idle my truck 10-15 minutes to warm it up, drive short distances, and don't do any trailer towing in winter. So I do all the things that cause DEF issues about 1/2 the year. In summer I tow pretty often and make frequent 70-100 miles runs at 80 MPH which is the way it should be run all the time. You may never have a problem down south.

It's also nice to leave your truck on when you run in the store for a bit and it's 10* out

Do you run a grill cover of any kind?

 

[Snowy]

I would look at 19.5s when it's time for a new set.

19.5's specifically kept me out of a 450... way too many horror stories about how poorly they track and I didn't want to mess around with swapping out the 19.5's like a lot of folks do. Would have enjoyed the tighter turning radius though.

DEF doesn't give a F about idleing or temp issues. DEF has 3 parts, DEF pump, Injector and quality sensor inside the tank.
For the last three years the sensor in the tank has been a fucking nightmare on our equipment (CAT). Covid didn't help supply chain issues but the problem was already there.

EGR systems DO care about idling and WILL foul with wet carbon.

I am curious if my 4.10 gear truck has less problem with that vs. the 3.55/3.31 trucks do to higher temps and airflow but it's all a guess at this point.

Try not to idle the truck... Use the manufacturers high idle system to elevate idle speed if long idle times are needed.

That's another interesting trait of these trucks (Ford) they idle at 500 rpm.

Yep! I'd add that there is a heater in the tank too. It's gotten bad enough with the quality sensors that Cummins/Paccar has gotten an exemption from the EPA to install delete software on fleet trucks now since there's no end in sight.

Aftertreatment is far less complicated diagnostic-wise than most think and most issues are avoided by not idling the truck for extended periods and regularly driving for more than 5-10 minutes to keep the EGR happy and let it regen when needed. I'm emissions intact on my 6.7 Ford and plan to keep it that way since I'm almost always pulling 16k and like my truck quiet and stock. It never even actively regens on the highway, there's enough load to just stay in passive regen the whole time too.

 

[TreeClimber]

. I may swing by the dealer and see if I can order the 50 gal fuel tank and have them install it when the truck shows up. I'm thinking if I can get them to install it, there should be no issues with warranty.

yeahh.... I'd not take that bet for love nor money.

The only way two ways to guarantee warranty coverage are keep everything bone stock, or, be a really good lawyer who's familiar with the Magnuson Moss warranty act.

Remember, the Service Writer is an unskilled employee, with no real knowledge of what is or isn't legal, and his/her immediate supervisor, the Service Manager, is likely the same person, who just got a promotion. Both are paper pushers trying to keep the Manufacturer's Warranty claims in check and the Owner from losing money on unpaid repairs.

 

[Norm]

It's also nice to leave your truck on when you run in the store for a bit and it's 10* out

Do you run a grill cover of any kind?

I usually don't run cover unless it's a week or two of -20 /-30 temps or I'm taking a long trip. My old 5.9 diesel was really cold blooded and I'd run a 1/2 rack box in front the radiator and it still wouldn't warm up on cold days. The 6.7 warms up like a champ.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I usually don't run cover unless it's a week or two of -20 /-30 temps or I'm taking a long trip. My old 5.9 diesel was really cold blooded and I'd run a 1/2 rack box in front the radiator and it still wouldn't warm up on cold days. The 6.7 warms up like a champ.

I figured the new stuff would be totally fine with all the auto high idle and whatnot. I haven't ran a late model diesel up here. My 7.3 would barely come up to temp with a piece of cardboard blocking 90%+ of the rad

Funny story, I did the same thing on my 22re 4runner years ago. My commute was all down hill and it wouldn't warm up, I was too young and dumb to try a new thermostat (which later fixed it)

One day it's like 105* and I rigged my broken ac to work. I'm climbing the grade and it starts getting warm. I figured OK, 30 year old rig, 35s, ac and 105* is just too much. I pull over, go to dumb some water down the rad to cool it off and see the cheerio box still there. fucker was running good for like 2 months of warm weather. I pulled it out and ripped up the hill with out issue.

Cool story bro.....

 

[gt1guy]

yeahh.... I'd not take that bet for love nor money.

The only way two ways to guarantee warranty coverage are keep everything bone stock, or, be a really good lawyer who's familiar with the Magnuson Moss warranty act.

Remember, the Service Writer is an unskilled employee, with no real knowledge of what is or isn't legal, and his/her immediate supervisor, the Service Manager, is likely the same person, who just got a promotion. Both are paper pushers trying to keep the Manufacturer's Warranty claims in check and the Owner from losing money on unpaid repairs.

Point taken. Guess it wouldn't hurt to ask.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

yeahh.... I'd not take that bet for love nor money.

The only way two ways to guarantee warranty coverage are keep everything bone stock, or, be a really good lawyer who's familiar with the Magnuson Moss warranty act.

Remember, the Service Writer is an unskilled employee, with no real knowledge of what is or isn't legal, and his/her immediate supervisor, the Service Manager, is likely the same person, who just got a promotion. Both are paper pushers trying to keep the Manufacturer's Warranty claims in check and the Owner from losing money on unpaid repairs.

The few times I've dealt with warrentes, they always made it sound like they had to send all the info to corporate and it was up to them.

2 very different places, Honda powersports and Ford truck, so I don't think they were conspiring against me, but who knows

 

[rockyota83]

This is the Ford solution 397 amp alternator and a resistive grid heater in the HVAC duct.

neighbors brand new f450 has dual alternators

 

[CarterKraft]

neighbors brand new f450 has dual alternators

There are several configurations for dual alternators, 397amps is the highest and is included with the optional "rapid heat" system for $250.
A worthwhile option to add in my view.

 

[Tinstar]

I went with the rapid heat/dual alternators as well. I'm sure those alternators will be sky high when its time to replace them. Oh well.

I do have to say this truck would be the perfect truck if all the engine killing emissions junk wasn't on it. I can't imagine needing any more power, just a long engine life. I'm still deciding if I want the extended warranty or not. A friends Chevie just lost the CP4 out of warranty and he was quoted $11k to fix everything.

I'd like to put the fuel system saver on it as well as a bypass oil filter system, of course all that will screw my warranty.

 

[CarterKraft]

I went with the rapid heat/dual alternators as well. I'm sure those alternators will be sky high when its time to replace them. Oh well.

I do have to say this truck would be the perfect truck if all the engine killing emissions junk wasn't on it. I can't imagine needing any more power, just a long engine life. I'm still deciding if I want the extended warranty or not. A friends Chevie just lost the CP4 out of warranty and he was quoted $11k to fix everything.

I'd like to put the fuel system saver on it as well as a bypass oil filter system, of course all that will screw my warranty.

I can't agree more. I can't see paying the $XXXX extended warranty prices but I will always regret it if it burns me.

I am poised for CP4 failure and I know enough about this business to hopefully have my i's dotted.
I keep a log of all PM's and specifically call out drain water separator at each 5k mile oil change. I also know about fuel testing and the times I have consulted with people on their CP4 failures the dealer has never produced "bad" fuel samples only say the fuel is "bad".
That's not gonna fly when we are talking $10k+ repairs, I will pay the fuel test and they can pay for one if they want to try that.

 

[Tinstar]

I have a buddy that runs the Ram Diesels. He lost the fuel pump in one and traded down to an '18 for some reason.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I went with the rapid heat/dual alternators as well. I'm sure those alternators will be sky high when its time to replace them. Oh well.

I do have to say this truck would be the perfect truck if all the engine killing emissions junk wasn't on it. I can't imagine needing any more power, just a long engine life. I'm still deciding if I want the extended warranty or not. A friends Chevie just lost the CP4 out of warranty and he was quoted $11k to fix everything.

Just depends on who you talk to, read online and you can't run down to the grocery store with out a cp4 going out on the 6.7 ford. I personally have never seen or heard of one failing in the dozens and dozens I've driven, worked around or know friends with. Not saying it doesn't happen, but it's not as common as people think. If you look for success instead of failures, their are many early 6.7 powerstrokes with 300k and a few with 500-600k.

I'd like to put the fuel system saver on it as well as a bypass oil filter system, of course all that will screw my warranty.

From what I read it looks like a really easy install. I can't imagine it would be too hard to remove before it goes in to the dealer.

Id rather make the truck less susceptible to failure than bank on a warranty. Warranty also doesn't help you get off the side of the road or help your road trip not be fucked. I also totally get being hesitant to modify a $75k+ truck.

Personally, I haven't had great luck with warranties. They will come up with every excuse under the sun to deny you. Makes me wonder if buying the trucks at 100k miles, deleting emissions, and adding a few of the things like better filtration and whatnot on, then put the $25k you saved in the bank and bet on it not actually failing for the next 150k miles.

 

[CarterKraft]

From what I read it looks like a really easy install. I can't imagine it would be too hard to remove before it goes in to the dealer.

Id rather make the truck less susceptible to failure than bank on a warranty. Warranty also doesn't help you get off the side of the road or help your road trip not be fucked. I also totally get being hesitant to modify a $75k+ truck.

Personally, I haven't had great luck with warranties. They will come up with every excuse under the sun to deny you. Makes me wonder if buying the trucks at 100k miles, deleting emissions, and adding a few of the things like better filtration and whatnot on, then put the $25k you saved in the bank and bet on it not actually failing for the next 150k miles.

Naive warning

I can't really imagine a FoMoCo tech saying anything about the disaster prevention kit unless the problem was specifically with the kit/installation.
If it was leaking, threads damaged, line damaged etc. you might get push back.
But if the turbo shit a seal why would they fuck with you on that? Not saying they won't I just feel like techs are a lot more like us than the service writer. Maybe a friendly conversation with your dealer about your concern over the CP4 and your willingness to try and address it helps get the wink and knod.

For the warranty it would have to be FoMoCo warranty, no aftermarket warranty shit.
I had the chance to get a extended warranty with this one and bailed due to the price tag $2500k+ I think.
I didn't plan t have the truck out of warranty and I won't exceed the 5 years so the warranty only gained me chassis body stuff which I feel like I can handle on my own if something comes up.

 

[Tinstar]

Naive warning

I can't really imagine a FoMoCo tech saying anything about the disaster prevention kit unless the problem was specifically with the kit/installation.
If it was leaking, threads damaged, line damaged etc. you might get push back.
But if the turbo shit a seal why would they fuck with you on that? Not saying they won't I just feel like techs are a lot more like us than the service writer. Maybe a friendly conversation with your dealer about your concern over the CP4 and your willingness to try and address it helps get the wink and knod.

For the warranty it would have to be FoMoCo warranty, no aftermarket warranty shit.
I had the chance to get a extended warranty with this one and bailed due to the price tag $2500k+ I think.
I didn't plan t have the truck out of warranty and I won't exceed the 5 years so the warranty only gained me chassis body stuff which I feel like I can handle on my own if something comes up.

I had that conversation. I got a non answer that China Joe would have been proud of. I will probably let the warranty expire and do the disaster kit and bypass oil filter at least.

I am using the Hot Shot EDC that is supposed to help with lubricity for the CP4. Who knows, it may just be snake oil.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Naive warning

I can't really imagine a FoMoCo tech saying anything about the disaster prevention kit unless the problem was specifically with the kit/installation.
If it was leaking, threads damaged, line damaged etc. you might get push back.
But if the turbo shit a seal why would they fuck with you on that? Not saying they won't I just feel like techs are a lot more like us than the service writer. Maybe a friendly conversation with your dealer about your concern over the CP4 and your willingness to try and address it helps get the wink and knod.

For the warranty it would have to be FoMoCo warranty, no aftermarket warranty shit.
I had the chance to get a extended warranty with this one and bailed due to the price tag $2500k+ I think.
I didn't plan t have the truck out of warranty and I won't exceed the 5 years so the warranty only gained me chassis body stuff which I feel like I can handle on my own if something comes up.

I had a transmission shifting issue warranty denied by Honda because I had bigger than stock tires. Even though they advertised that size would fit. the dealership was shocked enough that they covered the cost.

For the amount of time to pull it, I wouldn't risk it.

 

[Gravy]

I like to start the truck and let it idle for however long I please. Imagine your power goes out or getting hit with a cold spell while camping and hopping in the truck for heat. Emissions really cluster fucked everthing.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I like to start the truck and let it idle for however long I please. Imagine your power goes out or getting hit with a cold spell while camping and hopping in the truck for heat. Emissions really cluster fucked everthing.

It can be an issue, but it isn't always.

Guy at my father in laws work got stuck in traffic from an accident. Newer ram diesel, idled for 16 hours straight. Didn't even blow up.

Like I said, every big construction company trucks idle all day.

 

[CarterKraft]

My service truck idles either on PTO or just at idle for 8-14 hours per day, doesn't cause any problems specific those systems.

 

[gt1guy]

How long do these things take to warm up first thing in the morning? It never really gets below freezing where I live.

 

[back woods]

Just depends on who you talk to, read online and you can't run down to the grocery store with out a cp4 going out on the 6.7 ford. I personally have never seen or heard of one failing in the dozens and dozens I've driven, worked around or know friends with. Not saying it doesn't happen, but it's not as common as people think. If you look for success instead of failures, their are many early 6.7 powerstrokes with 300k and a few with 500-600k.



From what I read it looks like a really easy install. I can't imagine it would be too hard to remove before it goes in to the dealer.

Id rather make the truck less susceptible to failure than bank on a warranty. Warranty also doesn't help you get off the side of the road or help your road trip not be fucked. I also totally get being hesitant to modify a $75k+ truck.

Personally, I haven't had great luck with warranties. They will come up with every excuse under the sun to deny you. Makes me wonder if buying the trucks at 100k miles, deleting emissions, and adding a few of the things like better filtration and whatnot on, then put the $25k you saved in the bank and bet on it not actually failing for the next 150k miles.

It is a pretty involved installation, not something you want to remove.

 

[CLRracer]

How long do these things take to warm up first thing in the morning? It never really gets below freezing where I live.

Longer than the 10 mile round trip and sitting in carpool line at the school lol. But the heated seat and steering wheel come on with the remote start so at least those aren't cold.

Duane

 

[YotaAtieToo]

It is a pretty involved installation, not something you want to remove.

Good to know. Which kit did you guys use? I see $80 to $400 kits.

I'd probably risk the cost of replacing a cp4 out of pocket ($1k?) than risk them sticking me with a $12k bill.

 

[back woods]

Good to know. Which kit did you guys use? I see $80 to $400 kits.

I'd probably risk the cost of replacing a cp4 out of pocket ($1k?) than risk them sticking me with a $12k bill.

The $400 S&S gen2 with the filter to keep debris out of the tank.

 

[Krazykiller]

Good thing ram switched back to the cp3 and dumped the cp4 in 2021

 

[AlxJ64]

How long do these things take to warm up first thing in the morning? It never really gets below freezing where I live.

My 2020 3500 Mega was remote started at 5:50 this morning, and I was in it leaving my driveway at 6a on the dot, the engine temp was 143 degrees which I thought was still kinda cold; then I noticed it was 11 degrees F this AM. If I had given it another 3 to 5 min I'd have seen the 160 or so.
However, the truck never got above 183 deg engine temp on the hour drive in; normally it runs 189 to 192. It was 17F when I parked it.

 

[gt1guy]

Good thing ram switched back to the cp3 and dumped the cp4 in 2021

Why did they stop using the cp3 in the first place? Is this a case where they fixed/upgraded a part that didn't need fixing?

My 2020 3500 Mega was remote started at 5:50 this morning, and I was in it leaving my driveway at 6a on the dot, the engine temp was 143 degrees which I thought was still kinda cold; then I noticed it was 11 degrees F this AM. If I had given it another 3 to 5 min I'd have seen the 160 or so.
However, the truck never got above 183 deg engine temp on the hour drive in; normally it runs 189 to 192. It was 17F when I parked it.

Thanks for that. So it's longer than a gasser, but not stupid long.

 

[RPS1030]

Why did they stop using the cp3 in the first place? Is this a case where they fixed/upgraded a part that didn't need fixing?

It was something along the lines of needing more pressure/flow with the other updates for 19. Somewhere in 20, they updated from asymmetric lobes to symmetrical lobes within the CP4. For 21, a CP3 variant was brought back.

When the CP4 died on my 19 last summer, the newer version was the replacement. Now there is a recall that’s awaiting parts supply. Sounds like an adapter ring and the CP3 variant.