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2022 Ram 3500 drw, HO Diesel....What to expect?

Just ordered the oil filter cap and the fuel filter socket from Geno's. Looking at fuel filler caps now. Thanks for all the heads up.

How the fuck do they think no fuel filler cap is in any way a good idea?


It make sense that if the rear leafs are holding the rear up and there's no air in the bags, that you can't lower the rear with the bags. It's actually funny how obvious that is when ya think about it.:laughing: And if you do have weight in the rear and the bags have leveled the rear, sure there would be whatever room to lower till the leafs catch the weight.
Guess I was somehow hoping that physics didn't apply here.:lmao:

Called the dealer yesterday. Truck is still in "D" status. I believe that's the very first status. All I have is the VIN#. I've read that it's been taking longer to receive trucks that were ordered with the sun roof. I got the sun roof.
 
DT75FLH said:
That has not been my experience... my dually had 25k on it when I traded...22k at least with a trailer..it was not a daily and garage kept.

My buddy races 20 to 24 weekends a year...his mc dually is his tow vehicle and not a DD....his use is probably 70 towing 30 percent empty as his is also not a dd.

Another guy in our group is retired and has a 2018 chevy dually running the 255 tires...he has 30k on it all towing. They all feather out with loaded miles on narrow stock rim...in fact discount would not mount that size on stock rims anymore...

So we will see as my racing buddy just went back to stock size on his mc dually..:idea:
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The buddy I'm talking about is pulling 20-30k with it often. He bought it for his construction and logging business.

Either way, I feel like wider tires in the front should help. Same thing they do with big trucks when they need more wieght capacity in the front.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I'd almost be tempted to just go to standard srw wheels and tires in the front. Seems like all duallys eat front tires.
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This set up with the factory dually axle or srw width? As far as I know srw trucks have the same issue with wearing front pas. tires.

Srw up front on a dually in any configuration is a no go for me personally. Even if it fixed the front tire wear it is still a band aid and not worth the inconvenience of having different wheels and tires on all 4 corners.
 
Dan said:
This set up with the factory dually axle or srw width? As far as I know srw trucks have the same issue with wearing front pas. tires.
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I was talking about duallys just wearing the front tires in general. Just wearing the front pass tire sounds like some ram problems :laughing::flipoff2:

Dan said:
Srw up front on a dually in any configuration is a no go for me personally. Even if it fixed the front tire wear it is still a band aid and not worth the inconvenience of having different wheels and tires on all 4 corners.
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Ya, i get it. Personally I don't see anyone rotating tires on a dually these days. So may as well make them last more than 20k miles.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I was talking about duallys just wearing the front tires in general. Just wearing the front pass tire sounds like some ram problems :laughing::flipoff2:
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Definitely some ram problems going on but you're talking like F450 axles might not solve my problems.

YotaAtieToo said:
Ya, i get it. Personally I don't see anyone rotating tires on a dually these days. So may as well make them last more than 20k miles.
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I rotate these stupid tires all the time, I'm so used to it it's barely an inconvenience. A good friend of mine did a sas on his first gen dually but left the front srw. He doesn't seem to mind the different wheels and tires.
 
Tire wear on my 30k mile Ford dually appears to suck.

Fronts are feathered bad on the outer edges, rears are thin as hell in the center presumably from unloaded high pressure operation combined with limited slip rear axle.
 
With the capacity of the new 1 ton srw trucks, I'd make sure that you really need/want the dually before making the purchase.

My buddy grosses 35k with his trailer full of hay. Currently uses an 02 dually. He was thinking about replacing it and the wife's F150 with 1 truck. He thought for sure he'd need to go dually, but after looking it up, the srw is totally capable of the pin wieght.

I like duallys, but they aren't as big of an advantage as they used to be imo.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I was talking about duallys just wearing the front tires in general. Just wearing the front pass tire sounds like some ram problems :laughing::flipoff2:



Ya, i get it. Personally I don't see anyone rotating tires on a dually these days. So may as well make them last more than 20k miles.
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CarterKraft said:
Tire wear on my 30k mile Ford dually appears to suck.

Fronts are feathered bad on the outer edges, rears are thin as hell in the center presumably from unloaded high pressure operation combined with limited slip rear axle.
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Seeing similar results on my dually (2018 F-350). Fronts are feathered on the outside with double the tread depth of the rear. My rear tread depth is even because I air them down to 60 PSI for my 18K 5th wheel. I rarely drive empty - something like 90/10 towing vs not towing. I see the rears making it to 30K and the fronts making it to 50-60K given their current trajectory.

There's no value in rotating dually tires IMO - especially with 3 different wheel types seen on the modern ones. You pretty much can't match the tires after a thousand or so miles anyway either inner to outer or front to back. Why waste the effort mounting and balancing 6 tires so often.

SRW trucks tend to burn the back tires off (like sub-10k miles) when towing something heavy, so there isn't really a pain free way to tow heavy shit.
 
FordFascist said:
Seeing similar results on my dually (2018 F-350). Fronts are feathered on the outside with double the tread depth of the rear. My rear tread depth is even because I air them down to 60 PSI for my 18K 5th wheel. I rarely drive empty - something like 90/10 towing vs not towing. I see the rears making it to 30K and the fronts making it to 50-60K given their current trajectory.

There's no value in rotating dually tires IMO - especially with 3 different wheel types seen on the modern ones. You pretty much can't match the tires after a thousand or so miles anyway either inner to outer or front to back. Why waste the effort mounting and balancing 6 tires so often.

SRW trucks tend to burn the back tires off (like sub-10k miles) when towing something heavy, so there isn't really a pain free way to tow heavy shit.
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I agree, bet bet is just switch the tires side to side in the front, and then have them flipped on the rim next time.

I've never seen a srw burn though rear tires super fast like that. Not to mention you can easily cross rotate them and even everything out.
 
rockota said:
I'm calling BS on 22 mpg
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mine must be broken. 2CB7D6A5-FAE0-4250-B940-690DAE5EEA87.jpeg 6B843BF5-6CAD-4F4C-A1EA-64A09E2A72A6.jpeg
 
FordFascist said:
There's no value in rotating dually tires IMO - especially with 3 different wheel types seen on the modern ones. You pretty much can't match the tires after a thousand or so miles anyway either inner to outer or front to back. Why waste the effort mounting and balancing 6 tires so often.
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Because I paid the $20 extortion fee for lifetime mount and balance from Discount.

They can break all 6 down, swap, and rebalance them every 10k to my liking.

Front feather/chop and rears wear different inner to outer. Makes perfect sense to me. I get 60k a set.
 
TRINDU said:
Because I paid the $20 extortion fee for lifetime mount and balance from Discount.

They can break all 6 down, swap, and rebalance them every 10k to my liking.

Front feather/chop and rears wear different inner to outer. Makes perfect sense to me. I get 60k a set.
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I didn't think they would do 6 mounts and dismounts for free as part of a rotation. That's sweet.

What's your magic order? Fronts to inner, inners to outters and outters to fronts?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I didn't think they would do 6 mounts and dismounts for free as part of a rotation. That's sweet.

What's your magic order? Fronts to inner, inners to outters and outters to fronts?
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Yep and yep.

It's not worth $20/ea mount and balance on my honda. But worth every penny on my alcoa clad dually. Ive ran the factory general ameritracs with good luck.

The nexen or whatever they come with now suck.
 
I ordered the steel rims on my 2020 F350 dually and rotate them every 5k miles. I follow the owners manual on rotation order just to keep it straight. My 2000 F350 has the Aluminum rims so I can't rotate them. Those Aluminum rims don't look so good after 200k plus miles.

BTW that 2020 F350 dually 4x4 would get 19.5mpg's empty at around 65-70 until I put aftermarket bumpers on it. Dropped it to about 18.5 mpg empty.

FWIW I towed a big square cabbed 18,000 lb backhoe about 100 miles the last couple of days. 9.0 mpg's running 65-70. That 10 speed sure shines with that much weight and wind resistance. On level ground it would stay in 10th.:smokin:
 
Tinstar said:
I ordered the steel rims on my 2020 F350 dually and rotate them every 5k miles. I follow the owners manual on rotation order just to keep it straight. My 2000 F350 has the Aluminum rims so I can't rotate them. Those Aluminum rims don't look so good after 200k plus miles.

BTW that 2020 F350 dually 4x4 would get 19.5mpg's empty at around 65-70 until I put aftermarket bumpers on it. Dropped it to about 18.5 mpg empty.

FWIW I towed a big square cabbed 18,000 lb backhoe about 100 miles the last couple of days. 9.0 mpg's running 65-70. That 10 speed sure shines with that much weight and wind resistance. On level ground it would stay in 10th.:smokin:
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Did you say what axle ratio the 2020 has?
 
FordFascist said:
There's no value in rotating dually tires IMO - especially with 3 different wheel types seen on the modern ones. You pretty much can't match the tires after a thousand or so miles anyway either inner to outer or front to back. Why waste the effort mounting and balancing 6 tires so often.
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I keep thinking I am going to rotate fronts side to side but it hasn't happened yet. I was hoping to get a new truck before having to get tires but that might not work if the 6-7 month timeline is inaccurate.
 
No body looks at their instant mpg deal as what they actually get on the freeway.

Usually it's reset before a highway trip and average over a tank or at least 1/2 a tank.

Also, the dash is usually off. Do it old school with miles vs gallons used and get back to us.
 
On the highway mine reads form 18-24 on the more level sections of highway it read 22-24 most of the time. I said I get between 14-15 all around and I live half way up Mt Rose which is like a 6-7% grade. Going up I get around 8 going down 99. I have factory size tires, run the speed limit, and am not lifted. I also don't drive like I am playing grand theft auto like a lot of poeple do.

I did not reset my monitor and it was a calm sunny day yesterday when I took the photos driving on 580 thru Reno. My driving is mostly running into Reno or Carson city. I tow an all steel tripple axle trailer to Sac about once a month to pick up materials and can do the round trip with 20 gallons or 15mpg calculated for the people that don't own a Ram but know all about them from that guy they know and know the computer is lying. Last week did a round trip to Rocklin to pick up a new car and did it on just half a tank but thanks for being so concerned about my fuel economy. You guys are awesome and really helping out the OP on shit you don't know about.
 
thedirtman said:
On the highway mine reads form 18-24 on the more level sections of highway it read 22-24 most of the time. I said I get between 14-15 all around and I live half way up Mt Rose which is like a 6-7% grade. Going up I get around 8 going down 99. I have factory size tires, run the speed limit, and am not lifted. I also don't drive like I am playing grand theft auto like a lot of poeple do.

I did not reset my monitor and it was a calm sunny day yesterday when I took the photos driving on 580 thru Reno. My driving is mostly running into Reno or Carson city. I tow an all steel tripple axle trailer to Sac about once a month to pick up materials and can do the round trip with 20 gallons or 15mpg calculated for the people that don't own a Ram but know all about them from that guy they know and know the computer is lying. Last week did a round trip to Rocklin to pick up a new car and did it on just half a tank but thanks for being so concerned about my fuel economy. You guys are awesome and really helping out the OP on shit you don't know about.
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irony?
 
thedirtman said:
On the highway mine reads form 18-24 on the more level sections of highway it read 22-24 most of the time. I said I get between 14-15 all around and I live half way up Mt Rose which is like a 6-7% grade. Going up I get around 8 going down 99. I have factory size tires, run the speed limit, and am not lifted. I also don't drive like I am playing grand theft auto like a lot of poeple do.

I did not reset my monitor and it was a calm sunny day yesterday when I took the photos driving on 580 thru Reno. My driving is mostly running into Reno or Carson city. I tow an all steel tripple axle trailer to Sac about once a month to pick up materials and can do the round trip with 20 gallons or 15mpg calculated for the people that don't own a Ram but know all about them from that guy they know and know the computer is lying. Last week did a round trip to Rocklin to pick up a new car and did it on just half a tank but thanks for being so concerned about my fuel economy. You guys are awesome and really helping out the OP on shit you don't know about.
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Hilarious! Do you work for the registrar of voters?
 
CarterKraft said:
Did you say what axle ratio the 2020 has?
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3.55's. Good catch! I shoulda put that in to start with.

To reduce the front tire feathering you can put the Carli +2 degrees caster bushings in. Those will also help resist DW.
 
Have you guys try get better wear out of front tires by dropping air pressure some? My theory, front tires with dumb high manufacturer recommended air pressure for when the truck isn’t anywhere close to its GVWR or GAWR can cause tires to bounce constantly at speed and cup/feather as result. And get a little better ride quality at the same time.
 
TrailTamer said:
Have you guys try get better wear out of front tires by dropping air pressure some? My theory, front tires with dumb high manufacturer recommended air pressure for when the truck isn’t anywhere close to its GVWR or GAWR can cause tires to bounce constantly at speed and cup/feather as result. And get a little better ride quality at the same time.
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I was going to reprogram the TPMS pressures to lower pressure in the rear but didn't think about the front.
How low would you go?
 
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