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1994 BRONCO/CAMPER BUILD/TRANSFORMATION

Edit2 just went back a couple pics and it has a sticker telling you which is which:homer:
 
bdkw1 said:
Run battery cable directly to starter. Run trigger wire to spade terminal on starter. Done. This will eliminate 1 cable connection and the contacts in the starter are way better than the Ford ones.

The instructions probably say to attach the current cable from the solenoid to the starter then run a jumper from the cable connection on the starter to the spade terminal on the starter. While thus will work, it is adding a redundant part to the system. Less parts, less things to go wrong.
Click to expand...
Current set up:
Pos. cable to starter
Trigger cable from starter relay to starter

nOOB question:
What would happen if I take the trigger cable off the starter relay and bolt it to the pos. battery terminal?
Trigger cable from pos. battery terminal to starter.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Current set up:
Pos. cable to starter
Trigger cable from starter relay to starter

nOOB question:
What would happen if I take the trigger cable off the starter relay and bolt it to the pos. battery terminal?
Trigger cable from pos. battery terminal to starter.
Click to expand...
Are there any other wires going to the stock relay? I can't remember if anything else was triggered from there. Carbureted ones had straight 12V to the coil while cranking bypassing the resisted wire. But I think that went away with FI.
 
bdkw1 said:
Are there any other wires going to the stock relay? I can't remember if anything else was triggered from there. Carbureted ones had straight 12V to the coil while cranking bypassing the resisted wire. But I think that went away with FI.
Click to expand...
1673323464373.png
 
Went to replace the headlight switch; found this:
1673393999624.png


What kind of damage is that; a one-time surge/electrical explosion?
A short?
And why did it/would it happen?

Here's the plug:
1673394278403.png


B2 'Tail lamp switch feed'?


Ordered a replacement:
1673394068486.png
 
Connect the trigger wires together and run the starter wire directly to the battery.

1673323464373.png
 
Got the headlight switch connector:
_nc_ohc=ulbp0jLdqS8AX9kF7In&_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.jpg


Ended up disconnecting/swapping the OEM spade connectors/wires from the old connector to the new connector.
Had to spice two of the said OEM spade connectors.
 
Burnt wire connection reads bad ground to me.
Headlight circuit is notorious for that
Brb
 
Correct me if I'm wrong;
A battery can still be weak even if it reads 12.5v.

I'm still getting labored starts with lower temps.
After installing there were days where the temps were in the mid to upper 40s: starts were good/healthy.
Since then temps dropped back down to 20s: labored/weak starts.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Correct me if I'm wrong;
A battery can still be weak even if it reads 12.5v.

I'm still getting labored starts with lower temps.
After installing there were days where the temps were in the mid to upper 40s: starts were good/healthy.
Since then temps dropped back down to 20s: labored/weak starts.
Click to expand...
I’m not an expert and don’t know all the technical terms, but batteries can do some mysterious stuff. Have you got a battery working in something else that you can swap it with to see what changes?
 
Gbkeith said:
I’m not an expert and don’t know all the technical terms, but batteries can do some mysterious stuff. Have you got a battery working in something else that you can swap it with to see what changes?
Click to expand...
No

I pulled the battery and it's sitting in the living room.
I'm conducting an experiment; tomorrow I'll re-install the battery and see how well it'll start with it being 71*.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Correct me if I'm wrong;
A battery can still be weak even if it reads 12.5v.

I'm still getting labored starts with lower temps.
After installing there were days where the temps were in the mid to upper 40s: starts were good/healthy.
Since then temps dropped back down to 20s: labored/weak starts.
Click to expand...

Are you sure you don't have a parasitic draw and killing the battery ?
 
If you have a volt meter that can read current, hook it up between the positive battery terminal, and the positive battery cable and see what you get. There should be some draw due to memory circuits, but not a lot.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Went to replace the headlight switch; found this:
1673393999624.png


What kind of damage is that; a one-time surge/electrical explosion?
A short?
And why did it/would it happen?
Click to expand...
This is common and normal. I have had babied OBS trucks that would burn up these and/or the light switch.

They were underbuilt. Any fault in trailer lighting would burn them up in one trip. Added lights speed up their demise but in the end they are all going to do this.
A loose connection will do this as well.

Hence why most parts stores have that repair plug in stock.

If you are running extra accessories of the headlight circuits add a relay to carry the load.

We used to build our own isolator boxes for trailer lighting to prevent this before Ford started putting trailer lights on their own circuit.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Correct me if I'm wrong;
A battery can still be weak even if it reads 12.5v.

I'm still getting labored starts with lower temps.
After installing there were days where the temps were in the mid to upper 40s: starts were good/healthy.
Since then temps dropped back down to 20s: labored/weak starts.
Click to expand...
You are correct. You can have a battery with a completely dead cell and still get 12.5 volts.
A battery can read 12.5 volts and put out 100 amps or 700 amps. Have to load test it.

One common demise of lead acid batteries is the plates break internally, eventually they rub through the envelope they are in and touch the plate next to it. Basically internally shorting the battery. It will act like an external drain.

If it is losing voltage overnight with nothing connected to the battery it is bad.

Usually those fancy electronic testers that parts stores use will catch battery problems like that as well.
 
reptillikus said:
If you have a volt meter that can read current, hook it up between the positive battery terminal, and the positive battery cable and see what you get. There should be some draw due to memory circuits, but not a lot.
Click to expand...
this is exactly the way to do it.

If you use a test light instead of a volt/amp meter. the light will light, glow dim, or nothing if there is not draw.

If the test light lights up. Start pulling fuses one by one until the light goes out and you will at least know the circuit causing the problems
 
CDA 455 II said:
Like a kill/cut off switch on the neg cable?
Click to expand...
A battery switch, off the negative, yeah.

It's not a kill switch, if you flick it off while the car is running, it won't stop it and will fuck some shit up.

But once it's stopped and you're letting it sit for a few days, it will preserve the battery big time.

Or you can simply remove the negative battery terminal when you're parking the car.
 
Bebop said:
A battery switch, off the negative, yeah.

It's not a kill switch, if you flick it off while the car is running, it won't stop it and will fuck some shit up.

But once it's stopped and you're letting it sit for a few days, it will preserve the battery big time.

Or you can simply remove the negative battery terminal when you're parking the car.
Click to expand...
Ah; poorman's battery switch; awesome!:smokin:

Thanks for the tip.:beer:
 
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