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1994 BRONCO/CAMPER BUILD/TRANSFORMATION


Blue Sea makes some nice disconnects. This is one of their smaller ones, but will be plenty for your bronco.
Thanks for the link.:beer:


So the pos cable would be in two parts, with the switch in the middle?
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Have you used/mounted it?
If so; where did you mount it?
Have any pics?
 
This is what I use on most of the buggies I wire.

They even make a quad post one to kill power and alt so you can actually turn it into a kill switch
Im using this one for a killswitch for my winch power. 600a continuous duty :smokin:

I didnt know they made ones for killing alt power too, thats really cool.

Can I use that switch on the alternator instead of the winch to create said kill switch?
Meaning; output to starter, and output to alternator.
 
Can I use that switch on the alternator instead of the winch to create said kill switch?
Meaning; output to starter, and output to alternator.
Those won't necessarily make it an anti theft switch if that is what you are looking for.

Killing the alternator feed will not kill the engine either.

If you want to kill the engine you need to kill both alternator line and Main line from battery to starter relay.
 
Those won't necessarily make it an anti theft switch if that is what you are looking for.

Killing the alternator feed will not kill the engine either.

If you want to kill the engine you need to kill both alternator line and Main line from battery to starter relay.
OK; I thought that's what I was describing.
 
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So the 3000 series like im using, has 3 contacts. 2 are tied together. So when looking at this pic:
blue_sea.jpg


Top left could go to battery.
Top right could go to alt.
Bottom could go to the starter relay stud for vehicle power. Wiring it up this way the battery & alt would always be connected together, however, when you flip the switch to off, youd kill all power to the vehicle.


Im not using it as a vehicle killswitch, im using it simply as a killswitch for my winch power since its hardwired into the truck, and that includes in-dash controls and wireless control. So i wanted to make sure it had no power unless i was using it.
 
So the 3000 series like im using, has 3 contacts. 2 are tied together. So when looking at this pic:
blue_sea.jpg


Top left could go to battery.
Top right could go to alt.
Bottom could go to the starter relay stud for vehicle power. Wiring it up this way the battery & alt would always be connected together, however, when you flip the switch to off, youd kill all power to the vehicle.


Im not using it as a vehicle killswitch, im using it simply as a killswitch for my winch power since its hardwired into the truck, and that includes in-dash controls and wireless control. So i wanted to make sure it had no power unless i was using it.
Bad idea, because that means you still have a constant hot wire going to the alt.

So I need a 4-post, not a 3-post?
There are some 3 posts that can do the job, but they are usually rare and I don't know of any that have a simple on/off operation.

I would suggest a 4 pole wired the way I posted.

I can give you part numbers if you want.
 
If you want to hook a winch on it, use Blue Sea 5510e.
If you don't put the winch on it, use Blue Sea 6010 (or 6010200 if you want it in black).
 
If you want to hook a winch on it, use Blue Sea 5510e.
If you don't put the winch on it, use Blue Sea 6010 (or 6010200 if you want it in black).
This one:
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41U+8IAmBmL._AC_.jpg

58dbba4a0e341_morososwitch-jpg-f44841338a54b4c0b3cd2cd65cd2d5f7-jpg.637916


So the 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock posts are simply connected, correct?

Winch is in the near future.

Thanks for the part numbers.:beer:
 
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Honestly, if its under the hood, the would-be thief cant turn it on unless they can open the hood.

So ok, they bust out the window and notice it has no power. Pop hood and find a killswitch right next to the battery, turn it on, and drive away! You could counter this by hiding it maybe down on the frame rail or even in the dead space between your camper and the interior wheel well, but youd have to run all your battery power to it, and then back to the hood. A smart thief is just going to trace the battery cables and see where they go.

So to counter that, you use your battery kill switch and put it where its convenient for you, presumably under the hood. Then, you add an ignition kill switch and hide it somewhere under the dash, so even if the would-be thief finds your battery disconnect, it still wont start.



TLDR: put the battery killswitch where its easy to access, and add an ignition killswitch as well. Conveniently all of our generation trucks have a plug in the harness for the clutch pedal sensor, near where said pedal would be, if it was a manual. The automatic-equipped trucks have a jumper plugged into the harness instead. You could remove it and wire it to a switch hidden under the dash. When flipped off it wouldnt start, because the truck would think the clutch pedal isnt depressed. Flip switch and now itll crank over and start. Easy to do, without cutting any wires in the harness.
 
Honestly, if its under the hood, the would-be thief cant turn it on unless they can open the hood.

So ok, they bust out the window and notice it has no power. Pop hood and find a killswitch right next to the battery, turn it on, and drive away! You could counter this by hiding it maybe down on the frame rail or even in the dead space between your camper and the interior wheel well, but youd have to run all your battery power to it, and then back to the hood. A smart thief is just going to trace the battery cables and see where they go.

I'm thinking; for the battery switch I'd mount it in a center console/arm rest/20mm ammo box.

So to counter that, you use your battery kill switch and put it where its convenient for you, presumably under the hood. Then, you add an ignition kill switch and hide it somewhere under the dash, so even if the would-be thief finds your battery disconnect, it still wont start.

TLDR: put the battery killswitch where its easy to access, and add an ignition killswitch as well. Conveniently all of our generation trucks have a plug in the harness for the clutch pedal sensor, near where said pedal would be, if it was a manual. The automatic-equipped trucks have a jumper plugged into the harness instead. You could remove it and wire it to a switch hidden under the dash. When flipped off it wouldnt start, because the truck would think the clutch pedal isnt depressed. Flip switch and now itll crank over and start. Easy to do, without cutting any wires in the harness.
The ignition kill switch...:smokin:

I'll have to research that jumper plug/kill switch wiring.🤔

Thanks for the response and suggestions.:beer:
 
Are you sure you don't have a parasitic draw and killing the battery ?
This simple question got what little grey matter I have left thinking...🤔

While engine's off/not running:
1) Door(s) open while working on it or camper. Very minimal
2) Charging phone while listening to YT/working on Bronco or camper. 2hrs to 6hrs/4+ days a week.
3) Ashtray left pulled out. Continuously 2+ years forgetting it has it's own little light and never driving at night.:eek::eek:
 
2) Charging phone while listening to YT/working on Bronco or camper. 2hrs to 6hrs/4+ days a week.
3) Ashtray left pulled out. Continuously 2+ years forgetting it has it's own little light and never driving at night.:eek::eek:
Both of these are bad.

Bring a battery pack for your phone and close the ashtray.

Then measure draw again and share what you get.
 
After learning I slowly killed the battery from parasitic draw; I ended up buying the same battery: Walmart EverStart Maxx.
Walmart tested the old battery: 391CA/11.58v:eek:
They also prorated said old battery: $28 off new $120.:grinpimp:

Taking mobil1syn suggestion of two-battery set up; I started clearing the space behind the main battery for another one.:smokin:
 
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